OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: jimg1au on February 12, 2009, 08:20:55 pm
-
i have a very rattie looking cr250 tank one side has rought welds on it.i need to bog up side and paint.i used a spray can for the guards and side covers and they came up ok for a rase bike.just wanting to know how to go about it and also useing a clear coat to stop petrol spill damage.
also i want to paint my old cz tank yellow it is red at the moment.
cheers
jim
-
What material is the tank plastic ally or steel
-
sorry its a 1973 cr250 tank alloy
cheers
jim
-
If its abit of a roughy cant see why not.
-
I've not had a problem with using aerosol cans on tanks. Most of the decent quality paints seem quite resistant to fuel (that Export shit jumps off at the first sign of petrol or degreaser though).
Sorry for being phone retard - will call tomorro arvo.
-
Hi Jim,
The spray can paint is not to bad for a race bike.
Shame you are not up here I would spray it for you.
Check what the compatibility of the clear is.
The spray can paint is usually enamel and will blister if you spray acrylic clear over it.
Ji
-
thanks for the replies.a spray painter told me to use etch primer on the tank before the filler so it will stick better.the tank is alloy.
cheers
jim
-
usually if you choose a decent automotive one like Holt it is good start. Then you need 4 can, there primer, paint coat and clear...use bumper primer for plastics. Also using the same brand filler is good insurance against nothing reacting with each other. Rub it back wet until you are happy, prime, rub back, prime rub back.
Next lave the top coat outside in the sun, let it built some heat, automotive paint is better as has a little metallic in there so looks close to original, couple of coats, give it 30 minutes then put clear on in a couple of coats, then let the whole lot harden off, decals on, light coat of clear and it will look mint.
-
I agree Marc....I've used Holts cans for yonks and agree with your 4 can system. My concourse DT1 was mainly painted with Holts cans (except the tank and headlight shell) and nobody has ever said anything but good things about the bikes finish.
The Mitsubishi silver mudguards and engine cases and turned out especially good but I took a lot of care. It's best if you warm the cans in a bucket of hot water for a half an hour then shake them vigorously prior too using. After they'd dried I baked the cases in the oven set to low for about half an hour and then left them in the sun for a week prior to fitting them to the bike. At the Nabiac motorcycle museum you'll see my old 1973 400 Maico that's now owned by Stay Upright founder Warwick Schuberg. I restored that bike totally using rattle cans and I proudly admit that it turned our pretty schmick. It's nice enough to be in a bloody museum anyway! The tank is painted with Ford Fiesta red (I think it's an XD Falcon colour) Holts cans which was the closest match I could find to '73 Maico red. If you're anal enough, you can do a magic job with spray cans. If you try and rush it, it'll end up looking like shit.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/DT1_StatLHS_ADB0510.jpg)
-
Hi Jim,
When using that etch primer use a very good face mask. If you have ever tried to remove it from a surface you will know you don't want that stuff sticking to your lungs.
Of course you should use a face mask when ever you paint but especially when using that stuff.
I use the etch primer you can buy at Bunnings and that works really well. Using the same brand products is a very good idea because some other products do react.
With the etch primer spray a dust coat on first let dry for a few minutes and then go for it. This dust coat helps the full coat bond with out runs ( to a point ). It can look kind of bumpy but it will dry pretty flat. I now use etch primer on all metal surfaces I paint.
Ji