OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: caps 999 on October 18, 2008, 06:12:12 pm
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ok ive spotted a 125 just around the corner from me and its cheap http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUZUKI-RM-125-IDEAL-RESTORE-OR-PARTS_W0QQitemZ350109965720QQihZ022QQcategoryZ102678QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUZUKI-RM-125-IDEAL-RESTORE-OR-PARTS_W0QQitemZ350109965720QQihZ022QQcategoryZ102678QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
what do people think is it worth the money ???
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YES, buy it now!!! (RM125A by the looks of things)
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yup..looks fair enough and a good starting point. Price is pretty good, if that PE rear mudguard is genuine and in good nic it's worth thousands of $! :D Seriously it looks pretty good for the coin.
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125 a model = 1976 Suzuki still carries the rod + top and bottom pins.
Swoop on it
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couldnt help myself ;D got it a bit cheaper than the add to just got it home
heres a pic
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/18102008197.jpg)
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you Move fast Caps ! :D good pick up.
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the bike was 2 blocks away ;D
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and i didnt know about it
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You do now ;D :) 8) jimson
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ya gotta love a spring bargain. :o
well done :) enjoy :-*
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Here's a few bits to get you started....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-RM125-FUEL-TANK-ALUMINUM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35597QQihZ021QQitemZ310091040964QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-RM125-nos-rod-kit-1976_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35581QQihZ009QQitemZ190256314347QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genuine-Suzuki-RM100-RM125-PE175-Frame-Side-Cover-RHNOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35585QQihZ019QQitemZ290247844184QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://www.vintage-suzuki.com/
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
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now the shopping list begins any one got a seat base or whole seat
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Nice score caps. Well done.
When you get around to restoring it can ya give me first offer on the PE rear guard, if its not cracked. ;)
I may have a seat or base. Will need to check. I know I have a M or S seat with peerrrrfect metal base. A model should be plastic base so i'll see what ive got.
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dont bin that rear fender what ever you do someone will want it
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Are those early PE fenders hard to get ?
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ive pulled the engine down and have discovered a scray thing it look like its snaped the crank half goin to the ignition as the crank turns but the ignition dont and vise versa is this common
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Are those early PE fenders hard to get ?
Dunno Bill, not tried yet. Its same as one on my 78 PE250. Mine is cracked.
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ive pulled the engine down and have discovered a scray thing it look like its snaped the crank half goin to the ignition as the crank turns but the ignition dont and vise versa is this common
That doesnt sound too good. I may have a crank caps. ;)
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ive got to split the donrk and access damage now
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does any one know how this could happen
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;) what did I tellya caps! the rear guard is worth millions!! :D I don't like to dissappoint anyone but I beleive there is damage to the rear right corner of the guard not visiable in the above photo ;) from millions to about 20c in 2 seconds flat :D bad luck about the motor issue but it's shouldn't be overly difficult repair ;) Never heard or seen any RM/TS/PE breaking a crank in 2. That is a weird one :-\
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i know but i recon i can do something with it ;D
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Caps, I am puting an order through to Alpha Sports this week, let me know if you want to combine some shipping.
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its all right mate i wanna try and get the hard bits before i get into those bits the pe guard has got a crack if anyone still wants it free to good home
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caps, let us in on what's happened when you split the sucker. It's a really strange one and I can honestly say I've never seen an RM/TM125 snap the crank. Not saying it doesn't happen but that's a million to one. A little sorry for advising you to jump right in and grab it but some of the biggest mistakes are made with the best of intentions :-\ let us know what you need and I'll have a look as I've a few bits and know of some other parts maybe..whatever it is we can rebuild it!! ;D
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im going to split it tonight looks like im just going to need a crank and shift shaft to get the motor on the track ;D
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Have you seen this?
http://www.ozvmx.com/classies/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=1414&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=23
I can have a look at his stuff if need be and can email photo's too if required.
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ok bottom end is split looks like ill get away witha new crank and mains has mutilated the cases so it shound be fine anyone got a good crank and seat ;D
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G'day Caps, post up a few pics of it so we can see.
so was the crank snapped?
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clean shear ill get pics tonight
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Get a 125B crank, and cylinder if you can. It will be much easier to get pistons down the track. I can tell you what piston to use with a B rod & A cylinder, although it will increase the compression and you will have to use Avgas or race fuel, or it will detonate. If you want to use pump fuel you will have to use a thicker base gasket and have a thicker head gasket made. They go great with hi-comp piston but.
Cheers,
K
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If it were me I'd be setting it up to take a modern rod with a 15mm gudgeon pin.Later model RM 125 pistons are exquisite things cheap as too.... look forward to the pics to Caps
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Not that you need a top end Caps but for the record the later watercooled TS125R also run the 56mm bore and 16mm pin. Another option I'd pondered but not yet tried was a std T350 (61mm bore 16mm pin) piston. Not sure if there's enough metal available for such an overbore but it's a thought worth pursuing and I think there is a piston or 3 on their way over to me from the US :-\ I bought a few cables from an US eBay seller and he's since given me (for the price of postage) about 20 ring sets for various sub 200cc models, a swag of pistons and a heap of gaskets. All early Suzuki 2 stroke and although some is ratshit from water damage there is some stuff that's still quite useful and quite ok. My luckiest break for quite some time and a damn fine ebay seller to boot. I'd spread his name but for the fact I want to buy some more from him when I get cashed up again. ;)
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ive now cleanned the barrelup too illl get away with a .25os piston ring kit
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I just had a look and I can't help you with those bits sorry. There could be something in the next lot to come but it'll be a few weeks away at least. I have (what I believe is a 125B cylinder here) only thing is the fins have been reshaped back to the smaller A shape and it appears 56mm (needs a bore) To discern between the A and B cylinders I've always looked at the physical size, if they appear the same how can one tell what's what if they are both the same bore? Am I missing the obvious?? :-\ bottomline caps, if it's any use to you it's yours ;) inlet/exhaust ports have been polished and the inlet bridge leading edge sharpened but the rest looks stock as rock.
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heres some pics of the bottom end :o
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/24102008228.jpg)
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/24102008228.jpg)
never seen a bike do this put that barrel aside for us doc i may grab it
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(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/24102008229.jpg)
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Any chance of a macro/close up of the crank web Caps?
Does the bearing show any signs of 'blueing/overheating'? I can't help but think the seizure marks on the piston was the cause of the crank snapping.
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bike wasnt seized barrel only needed a hone dont know how the piston is that bad bearing is not blue no signs of overheating ???
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/24102008227.jpg)
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/24102008226.jpg)
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That piston has had a very bad seizure, that's how all those lines are on there, there is some big gouges and the crown shows signs of detonation.I am thinking that it seized locked solid , the inertia from the rotor made the crank snap like that. It may have had a few seizures like that for that to happen.Something like this you don't see everyday.
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Loz I have 'never' seen that happen to any RM/TS/TS/PE/RL/TF regardless of how many seizures or the rotor weight. If it (the big seize) had happened more than a few times my guess is the barrel would not be still only on 1st over. I feel the damage to the piston may have been caused by the broken crank?? :-\ poor casting possibly?? seen it happen before just not on a little single cylinder 2 stroke is all. (when I say I'd never seen this happen this does not include only my bikes but all others I've seen including the multitude of cranks and parts found at wreckers during the time. I had access to a lot of this stuff as I worked at reasonable size bike wrecking business myself abd sifted through others shops but as said, never in my born natural did I find a crank broken like that!)
Caps, I've the head for the spare barrel too. Will take a closer look at it today to make sure there are no 'unforeseen' problems. I still don't know if it's A or B but I'll figure that out as I go. ;) you can actually thank Jimson as this is a barrel he sent me years ago found whilst walking a creek bank ;)
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i have no idea what would have caused this ??? :-\ but none the less its not going to stop me ill get a new crank and barrel does any one know if the countershaft drive side bearing is still avaliable as mine is a little stuffed to (the one with the little line up pin) ive never seen a bearing like it before
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Also the rod in the crank is perfect no slop and smooth ???
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smooth as in polished??
All bearings/seals should be available at Bearing shops or over the counter at Suzuki ;)
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smoth as in free moving
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I have bent flywheel tapers on cranks before after seizures at speed.It has definatly had a major seizure.You can have a major seize and not damage the bore.
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yea, salvaged seized bores before with a little acid and a light hone when it was simple seizure but it appears all sides of the piston has been affected and the ammount of deep score damage seems a little unusual also Loz..as you say it could have happened more than once and no real history is known :-\ I dunno, all hypothetical but indeed a rare scenario..guess you're just lucky caps..usually I land on this type of thing ;)
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got the roller stripped heres a pic
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x197/caps999/25102008230.jpg)
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yes original PE rear guards are well and truely into the rocking horse s##t category now. the only plastic repros out there are very poor to put it mildly and the few repro fibreglass ones around are usually not right either but i will admit there are a couple guys doing an OK job with the fiber glass ones. so original ones still in average to good condition that still have seom yellow colour left in them are quite sought after. Plastic restoration and repairs and plastic painting has come a long way in recent years and makes it worthwhile to hang onto parts like this.
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Looks an okay sorta roller caps..pretty original ;) what's the white Q sleeper in the background? 8)
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shes not bad ;D the old gts hq is stiitin there just what every garage needs makes a good anchor for the bike chains
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to mee the break in the crank looks more like a defect in the metal which has slowley progressed into s fracture
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the old gts hq is stiitin there just what every garage needs
;D yeeees, I have the '53 4 door GTS Monaro..aka FJ Special sedan utilized as a mobile storage vessel that I'm soon to get stuck into and fix up...again 8)
The crank could have simply been a dud too..highly possible with mass production ;)
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-SUZUKI-RM125-RM-125-A-ALUMINUM-SWINGARM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34284QQihZ022QQitemZ350113163045
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-SUZUKI-RM125-RM-125-A-BOTTOM-END-MOTOR-ENGINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34284QQihZ022QQitemZ350095943277
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-SUZUKI-RM125-RM-125-A-FRONT-FORKS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34284QQihZ026QQitemZ390003249401
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i tried for that swing arm and ive given up now its bordering on drug money >:( bloddy exchange rate
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When it reaches those sort of prices it's probably cheaper to have one made :-\
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would you know any one who makes them ???
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would you know any one who makes them ???
In Perth, I would take photo's of a period correct aluminium swingarm and my stock swingarm to Forbes and Mills engineering, he makes frames and such for drag racing so he knows how to build them strong. As long as what you have made looks correct you won't have any scrutineer probs either. It would be helpful if you asked that ebay seller for some dimensions just in case it's an inch or two longer and has different shock mount positions. If you ask some of your local dragbike racers where they get their bikes built it may give you a few leads.
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CG - if you go to Forbes and Mills be prepared for the wait???
cheers
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i might leave the swing arm till last
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are they the same as the 75 model TM ??
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I don't believe they are the same although they probably would interchange if you really wished and persisted. It wouldn't remain legal to race pre'75 as you've used parts from the pre'78 era ;)
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would a rm125c swing arm be legal ???
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is the 125a pre 75 legal
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would a rm125c swing arm be legal ???
NO
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is the 125a pre 75 legal
NO its a 1976 model, pre78 only
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sorry what you said about the swing arm had me a bit confused
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update ill get pics wen i can evgine has been acid dipped new plastics "nos ones" are hear located 125b front end and located shocks
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does any one know of any other piston i can use i heard theres a piston i can run but it can only be ran with a race fuel any help would be good
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do you still have that barrel doc i may be in need of it
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caps, I've heard there is a late model RM125 slug that can be used but they're a flat top piston so this maybe the race fuel one?? The only other I've heard of people using in the A is a late model TSR125 (TS125R from the 90's) I was going to play with a T305 or T350 (can't rightly remember which :-\) slug as they 16mm pin but the bore size is something like 60mm or 2mm 'over' maximum wiseco oversize which in reality isn't a lot. 2mm rounder bore in all directions is all but I'm unsure of liner thickness to allow such an overbore. I never looked into this properly as I'm waiting for an actual piston to arrive with some other bits in the not to distant future but 'it maybe' a possibility and quite readily available cheap as chips. If the pin is at the correct angle to the cutaways and the pin height is within striking range then I don't see a problem. As for the barrel, yes it's waiting patiently for a home ;)
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Whats the Wisco number your after, i got a secret stash box of NOS Wisco piston sets and i know i have some Suzuki 250 in there.....................
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Freaky the Wiseco piston kit number for the '76 RM125A is 395 ;)
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got the barrel doc thanks mate its final os but its something the project can continue a little i really need a crank now
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I thought the barrel measured 55mm caps ??? Would make it 1mm over with another 2 oversizes to go using wiseco. Must have measured wrong :-\ once it gets to 56mm you can run early TM/TS pistons but the lower ring must be removed. The lower locating pin is incorrectly positioned with the TS/TM piston as compared to the RM125 hence you only run the top ring or get the pin repositioned and run both as normal ;)
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came out as spot on 56 but itll be fine at least ive got a barrell now
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you can get it re-sleeved back to STD
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could but ill leave it as it is for the minute ;)
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came out as spot on 56 but itll be fine at least ive got a barrell now
An RM125(A) is standard bore @ 56mm an RM125(B/C etc) is standard at 54mm are you rebuilding the engine as a B model?
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im rebuilding it as a b/a using a bottomend with b rod barrell piston and dg head
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even at 56mm it still gives you a couple of Suzuki oversizes or even more overbore options if you use the 0.25mm increment CR/MT125 pistons, set the lower locating pin to match the RM pistons and it's all go ;) I'm in the process of seeing if I can go to 61mm safely as I have alternatives starting at this size which theoreticaly bumps capacity to around 163cc. May need some headwork tho.... both the bike and for me to even consider trying it :D ;)