OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: Doc on October 11, 2008, 12:00:40 am
-
just a general question for electrical type guru's :P a TM250 stator and rotor on an '85 TS185 (same as '81 on or something), what cdi would one suggest? Early TS185 and so keeping with Kokusan? later stock ND TS185ER unit if compatable? or TM250 Kokusan or TM125 possibly. Any other ideas?..PE175 RM125 maybe? or lasty just try and see and if it goes bang I'll know it's all wrong :o ::)
-
Guess the question should be what do you want the engine to do mate?
If you want to use it as a a trail basher or if you want to stick it on a track and rev its ring out.
if the later one of those nice little units from ane early yz80 are spose to be the ducks nuts.
Have also heard that taking 1/3 of the weight off the stock flywheel gives a pretty good result. Thts for the pre75 1985s and im buggered if I know about the ER series, perhaps an RM125 may be suited .
-
Look at the length of the trigger bar on the rotor, that will speak volumes about the ignition.However for a great stator rotor combo pocket bike external rotor are the go.You could even run with the diesel cdi as they still fire at the top of every stroke. Cost $60 complete delivered.
-
Thanks Lozza but I wanted to stick with suzuki parts only on this. The idea crossed my mind last night as I inspected the TS185 bits and pieces I've collected. Can't see any point in having all these bits and not using them so I'll build a bike. I do have the proper flywheel/mag/CDI etc but I thought I'd try a TM250 ignition for size since I could.
The TS185 shares the same flywheel as TS400 and TS400 share the same flywheel taper as TS250 so in all theory it should fit..and fit it does, a straight bolt up item! I want to try it and see how the motor responds before I decide which way I'll go with the bike..was thinking of building a nice low seat vinduro especially for my vertically challenged short arsed chassis ;)
Pokey, Bill reckons remove a third of the flywheel weight and the effect is very positive. The motor is stock as a rock and apart from a little port matching, deburring and polishing the only other internal mod will be some decent reeds. I don't know if I'll use the TM ignition but I've a curiosity that won't go away till I at least try it ;)
-
i have a 1980 TS185 ER and it runs all kokusan electrics and my 1980 250 runs Nippon denson electrics. i think Cyclegod knows what to do here? it think a 79 or 1980 RM 125 CDI is the go.
-
I'll get this thing up and running as it is first and then I'll try these swaps. Don't suppose anyone's tried stuffing a 6 speed RM125/PE175 transmission into the TS185 cases?? This could well be a project for the spare bottom end :-\ I love this shit ;D
-
never though about that, but i dont have a 6 speed trans to try. ages ago i looked into fitting a higher top gear but it was hard work and i just pushed that idea to the side.
-
TS185's use 15mm shafts and PE/RM's use 14mm shafts. If you replaced the gearbox bearings/seals with the correct inner diameter (52x20x14 instead of 52x20x15) it might work but it all depends on if the width is the same or if it can be shimmed to work plus there is the whole shift drum issue
-
hmmm..interesting Mick, if I can find myself a donor PE175 bottom end I'll look into this idea a little more closely. cheers
-
Sorry to high jack the thread but while your talking 185 electrics if I have a coil and CDI unit off a RM250 81 model what would it do on a pre 75 TS 185 would it work ::) improve performance :o ? I thought about putting it on the budget racer.jimson
-
Im thinking not a lot jimson. the 250 being a bigger cube thus not as big and as hard a revver as the smaller bores it will have a different map thus not as biased to fast accumulation of revs as say a 125 would be.
suck it and see is prolly the best and then we will all know for sure
-
Still, you'd think that a 250MXer would be more rev-happy than a 185 traily?
Particularly when you consider that most trailys seem to have very conservative advance curves to allow for crappy and/or stale fuel.
-
Nathan get this, my RM400 runs the same CDI unit as the RM100C :-\ couldn't be more different yet it works for both. I just try 'em and see ;D
been slowly piecing together my TS 'Vinduro Special' :P another mega bitsa of course ::) TF185 top end and ignition, GT185 rear wheel, TS250 tank, PE175 seat, DR500 headlight, vinduro special tail light, GN250 shocks, there's more but I forget. Was going to fit the obligitory preston petty headlight numberplate and an itty RS250 speedo but when I did it looked shitty..correction..even shittier! :D once 100% together I'll rip it back to the bare frame again and tart it all up and it'll look just like all the others..kinda..I also modded B model exhaust shields as I don't like the look of the stock ER sidecovers so i guess it's not quite like all the others. 8)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a205/Doctor_Suzuki/TS185beasty14-10-08.jpg)
-
Err. what about the footpegs Doc? Hope they are gonna be Suzuki ;D
-
I use ER185 CDI on all my CZ's. works a treat on the 250 and 400
-
so is that the 10 liter TS 250 ER tank? how well does it fit? do the forks hit? i have found it real hard to get 250ER parts, they are a rare model compared to the 185
-
Pokey, footpegs yes, they be genuine Suzuki and the bracket is in the vise having extra welds laid cause you just know it'll snap off and hurt the ghoolies at some stage :o :D
Tankslapper, I tried an ER CDI on my RM once but it didn't work :( nothing ventured nothing gained and I gained the knowlege it won't work ::)
LWC, yes, a 10 litre TS250ER tank. It fits beautifully except on full lock yes, it does just touch the forks. Not enough to dent it and nothing a tiny dab of weld on the stops won't fix. Rear mount needs to be bent down a little but all lines up sweet.
It looks pretty crappy but all the good parts were raped off these donor bikes over the years hence why such a bitsa..for the price I paid for them they supplied my projects with cheap shockies, solid mount rear RM/TM hubs, front and rear backing plates, ignition coils, pivot bolts, handlebars, levers, cables and carbs etc. Never did I intend ever putting 1 back together until about 12 months ago when I started running out of space and scored a new crank and other useable TS bits. Easier to store a complete bike than it is to rack it for me ;)
-
getting there..about $20 invested so far but $30 should see it through ;) I've a couple of other jobs requiring immediate attention so this stop gap beasty will go on hold for a bit again now :)
-
has anyone tryed one of these CDI's and can report on results? theres a rumour that these are the units to use but has anyone actually tryed it or seen it writen in a magazine? they use same ignition coil as 185. i wonder if the coil values on the stator will match/work with the RM CDI?
Part # = 32900-40221
Part Description = CDI UNIT ASSEMBLY
Model Count = 1
RM125-T 1980
Part # = 32900-40220
Part Description = CDI UNIT ASSEMBLY
Model Count = 5
RM100N 1979
RM100T 1980
RM100X 1981
RM125-N 1979
RM125-T 1980