OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Slakewell on April 22, 2019, 10:48:10 am
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Anyone fitted one of this ignitions to there Husky?
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yes, on my CR450 Husky, was easy to set up and gave a strong spark even when the kickstart was "pushed" by hand, and the retard by electronic setup was a great help in kick starting the 450, price was cheaper than the others and delivery from the UK was reasonable, very happy customer
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I use 1 of their systems in my CZ & plan to buy another for the sidepipe when it's close to completion.
Been very happy with it, the flywheels are nicely made & plated, much prefer the smooth finish on the inside than the stuck on magnets of some others systems
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I have one on my 86 500CR engine and it works great, easy to kick start or bump start and easy to set up once you read the instructions.
Tony.
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I have one on my 86 500CR engine and it works great, easy to kick start or bump start and easy to set up once you read the instructions.
Tony.
Tony is your 86 500CR a Honda or Husky ?
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Sorry I should have been clearer, it's a Husky.
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have one of there units on my B44 M/x, they dont have much of a kick over but still starts fine
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I am fitting one to my 420 Auto , On the instruction it says to set the timing marks at BTDC 2.5 mm , not TDC 2mm like normal. What method has worked for you?
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Oops, I just looked mine up, it is an Electrex but it's an STK-018. The 018 is an inner rotor ignition, I think I got confused with the STK-185 when considering some for my WR Huskies.
I think the principle is the same though.
My 500 rips and sounds crisp with it, but to be fair, it came to me that way (and a PWK) and I can only compare it with my other 250/400 Huskies fitted with VM carbs and SEM ignitions.
The good thing about these ignitions is that Husqvarna limited the amount of advance to prevent kickback/crankcase damage, they can run more up to a point but that is a whole other story, Electrex have an auto advance built in to prevent kickback damage. I think from memory that my 500 stock timing specs in 1986 wwere 2.6mm BTDC, but this was gradually reduced over the years back to around 2.2mm from memory.
Tony.
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I am fitting one to my 420 Auto , On the instruction it says to set the timing marks at BTDC 2.5 mm , not TDC 2mm like normal. What method has worked for you?
I fitted an Electrex World to my 390 Auto. Worst thing I ever did. A faulty unit cost me an engine. I do understand that many people are happy with the Electrex set-up.
I think you will find the 2.5mm is for a manual box. The Auto's are retarded a bit more. I run mine at 1.9mm
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I was thinking that a tad more retarded timing might keep the piston a bit cooler , the 420 are known to ping when they get hot. Thanks for advise guys.
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After many hours of fitting this ignition I still have no spark. Andy from HVA has been helpful but he is not at work so cant email replies. Andy believed that the flywheel was to far away from the stator plate so the magnets would not work so I machined another plate to reduce it to 1m.
I still have no spark!
Getting frustrated after so many hours trying to solve this when it should be a bolt on part. Can you please help me understand by answering in dot point?
1) Regardless of timing there should be some spark?
2) What does the BTDC in the instruction really mean? ( before top dead centre )
3) Do I need to run a separate earth? If so were from?
4) I only have 1m between the flywheel and the stator plate, in the instruction photo’s it looks more like 6mm , am I now to close to the magnets?
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Sorry to hear of your issues, Ill try to address your points with what I have learned.
1) Regardless of timing there should be some spark?[/i] Yes as long as the ignition is working it will produce a spark even if it's 180 degrees out.
2) What does the BTDC in the instruction really mean? ( before top dead centre ) I'm not familiar with the specific instruction you speak of, but since these have an auto advance (maybe initial retard would be more accurate), logic should dictate that the initial stator plate timing should be set according to the instructions, i.e 2.2 degrees BTDC, and the ignition is retarded until the engine is spinning over 350 rpm(?) from memory, then it kicks in to the correct advance.
3) Do I need to run a separate earth? If so were from? I don't think it's a requirement, but good practice all the same, all earths should be checked as well, but I'm sure you are aware of this. Try an earth from one of the stator plate mounting screws up to one of the coil/cdi mounting screws, old SEM/Motoplat trick!
4) I only have 1m between the flywheel and the stator plate, in the instruction photo’s it looks more like 6mm , am I now to close to the magnets? Can't say without any experience with outer rotor Electrex ignitions, they do come in two or more different tapers to suit different models, can you check to see if your taper on the crank end is the correct one? Can you get a visual on how the magnets in the rotor would relate to the windings of the stator? Directly in line would be preferable, but a couple of mm either way shouldn't be an issue providing there is no rotor to stator contact. You would think that even with 6mm difference that you would still get a spark even if reduced?
Not sure if any of this is helpful, just some observations/logic I have learned the hard way over the years.
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The electrix web site has tech info and photos for all models- no trouble with mine