OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: alexbrown64 on July 07, 2017, 04:19:47 pm
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Well, i am just about to test out my OneDrive Microsoft account. Had it for years and never really used its features. Its part of my HotMail account. My Photobucket account has gone mad and is asking for big bucks.. wont be using that again..
So here goes.
I raced the YZ125G back in 1980 as a 16 year old.
Here is a Pic of me on the new old girl...
(https://pksugg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m6XKNxqQkNMB2zX4oY6ztxQ4UF43NSXNKelguR_1DHXiqhQiRcULWxLIwAmVNPQbSZ-QusG8KvHqsGkkGTC9zGGwi_8kmn_c5MydRp3oQZfqc4DDP6esNU4SDIA4b1RHEXEMDScVfDySE6Ij93nmqxIHTOm9JHot2yRy8qFNdJSLsKlFdJ8vOm6uZsOgUeWs6Xc8efcHg5gGiwgBsQeyYZA?width=660&height=467&cropmode=none)
OK, that works good.. free, reliable and easy. I just uploaded my pics to my OneDrive account, select the pic, click the embed tag.. it generates the code which you copy. I then put the code between the (http://) tags and bobs your uncle.
Cheers,
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OK, now that i am off and racing with images, i will start the story..
Was looking for a decent G on Gumtree and Ebay, but nothing going. (There is one up currently for 2K on Gumtree). I found one on BikeSales in South Australia. She looked a bit dirty and rough, but you could see under all that, that it was pretty original. I called the owner Lez. He said it was a one owner bike, still on original tyres and piston rings. Still has all original plastics including a front number plate which is a bit tatty.
I put in an offer, found a courier and bang.. she is on the way to West Australia..
This is the old girl...
(https://pku9ha-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mYjbXgOK34sd22FCg1qMUl3wzV3k1KxXWeNxTHgYzivUFKykWoFAZUl2aKNZtxnApoAbtt2zYyZebub_aOlTtnUPIzB9mEXPgJsoeotS6L0LQey7kWWMYSFAO3Rsc6bZ77-DAkSFVoyCfLYwLbifD4keMdo3LjaAPoclUw1lMpquBIrepDuXvW-2YXCaITEoA_gWEkUEJAIa9vfzoXwESSg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
I think the matching frame and engine number is pretty cool too...
(https://pyc8va-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mo694xcdTzXntJzfY6Oapsr0kJ7TOznDxTBoqM90cku2LP2yTQKnysH9ZNCaU9NeK3HXFUFg83S1tfwi6feKZlZm1IPPr6AmF06v557V4Y6rwTLfKNYR-7Fg9VCcPf3w2DKBr5V7ecfAGJgRNo6b9a8VsGkkYR9m5MNKKsx8_knAI5tbqUBbLejx7nUHjpwfhMf7ZzVHuX4HuGcBV4h5aGQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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Since i have my K racers, i have decided to make this G into an original bike. As near new as possible. I noticed from the pics i had that the sprocket and levers were not original. I have already sourced an alloy 48t Yamaha nos sprocket and the notched finger style levers. I wont be able to get the oem number plate, but DC do an exact replica. The bars, grips etc. are the originals.. it even has the rubber throttle cover.
The front tyre is the original Bridgestone M21 that came with the bike back in 1980 and is still like new. The rear is the original M20, but is too worn to keep on. I am trying to source a Bridgestone M22 which was almost identical but are discontinued as well. Might have found one but dear as..
Eastcoastvintagemx.com has two G's up on their site at the moment. Both originals and one was never used. Both sold.. one went for $6000 US and the other for 5K. I downloaded all their pics so i could use them to reference my build. Below is a pic of the 6K one...
(https://pydypq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m-AsbmGvgBX9NQT9Be5ykcrzVnU0GC-qCNbqic2tZyavdYUfx5ui4eQ7fiGE_POf1P9ZCI93K46Ew0ye15MpYVE8XTvDAjBNqJrQ_Pytt1d1D3W5gmx93EuNP33K4-JYz76rEQHmFKxTbu1FLE2U2lE4RYOLNibk5ELkJd4e7XXlQJProw8icpYf6Raa8_xfCnKHHBik8LKHo75OHTvxrxw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
I would like to bring my G to a similar standard. Of course it will never be "New", but Lez reckons my G only saw about 10-15 hours use in the last 37 years. It was never raced, being a farm bike and still has the original stand fitted...
(https://pksiqa-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mNISgD_RJeej_g1wjtpnLU3N0wy0IneKJYzfMkW1RBrmv6HGOH3PJT50OeloSp_Hhjz2sRHOUggP3L1zl64GOObXgjSQhT6R5ltM4EiIu5-zXtBQiBl_ArvZRO70OQHYzRBGjh14zlSs-G6IBv3fY3ECOxnoxDBm3QlzedpiQOXJlRGnybg6zzQY-BMqoQuXFnxW4STd8ObcGd3FgLnoTJA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
She also has the original seat cover. Tank is very yellow, but i have some ideas on removing the bromine and fuel stains which involves UV lamps and chemicals..
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This G was in an issue of VMX and is close to the condition i would like mine to get to. Will take a lot of work. I have just bought 3 issues of VMX mag that have G rebuilds in them, to get some more ideas.
(https://onkbkg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mV17-XXX5An5xEm4kUXv1cf_zJL8_sxPsd-jc-pLXV_wiZXe4fljMjYltktPHK-lkPKQqrELWT2ep8tLrHfJ0bnpAe5emGolGOKLPyun4rQ1lRA-5MFJiss6yeHNgh5K9Mrkp4i_487pB2WUXBrM_W0QHKvNMFYYtuMXr4P2vORD7mkv6NHYfnusRqpNiX2TGfetV7ZorEAuVK0faTf2KMw?width=1081&height=709&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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I'm sure you will make a great job of it alex........I like the YZ125G...great looking bike!
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That bike is a great find. They are a superb machine and look sensational.
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Thanks guys, I will try to do her justice. A lot of planning so far. Pipe off to pipe kings.. Frame and parts of to powder coaters, all metal parts of to zinc coaters, tracking down a Bridgestone m22 for rear, found nos 48t sprocket for rear. Hard part will be to make the tank look white again. Can still order heaps of nos gear from partzilla. This bike will be 99% authentic down to the last nut and bolt. Need to find a kayaba air fork warning decal. Will have to use a DC front plate. Original is on, but degraded. Original sear cover will need the Yamaha logo touching up. Will be interesting to open the engine and look at the condition.
Cheers,
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get on to café husky, there is a thread on using a hair bleaching product that whitens tanks like a set of pearly's after the colgate ring of confidence ;D
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Thanks husky,
I think I am onto it after some exhausting research. I did some research and realised it can be fuel and bromine leaching. The trick is to use the hair bleaching products, with oxy stain removal products and a uv lamp. I have procured all 3. Also got a hold of a spare tank to practice on. Hope to see the pearlies in the tank and guards..
Cheers,
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its some kind of blonde bleach and your supposed to leave it in the sun...
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hydrogen peroxide 50%....leave in the sun after wet sanding into surface with 600, available in spa shops as non chlorine chemical...make sure you get the 50%or close to, don't mix with brake fluid ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I own that white G now, Got it not long after it was in vmx mag. I had been collecting nos 125g parts for 10 years when it came up for sale. I have all the parts to make yours as good.
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Sorry not all. i used what i could to build a H.
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Thanks husky and itdog..yep, I will be using the peroxide. I read the trick is to add oxy wash to activate it. I also bought a large uv lamp.
That's amazing that you are the new owner of that great g craignduke. You will have to post up some pics. I don't think I will need much stuff to get my one back to showroom as it's mostly unmolested, but just degraded.
You don't happen to have a front number plate or m20/m22 tyre laying about? What about a close up pic of the kayaba fork leg warning decal... Hell.. Just post some nice pics up of the bike.
Cheers,
Alex
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no spare front plate or tyres sorry. theres a couple of pics in my photos. Next nice days i will take some photos of my H and post. I will have a look at the fork decal and see if i can get a photo.
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I clicked every link I could find an still couldn't find your photos craignduke. Can you put a direct link in this thread. Love to see your H as well.
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The G arrived from SA, and as usual i was a little disappointed. Bikes always look a bit better in the pics. It was great to meet up with a G again, but she is in a bit of a sorry state. I started nit picking and got myself wound up.
Anyway, took her out and gave her a degrease, bit of a scrub, a bit of a sand of the plastics, pressure wash etc.. and she came up much better.
Its going to take a shit load of time and money, but i think i can get her over the line... I got my issue of VMX delivered with craignduke's G in it and it looks fantastic. I don't think i can quite get to that standard, as the owner found a nos front plate and tank and the bike was virtually rebuilt using all new parts.
I am taking an approach from another angle. This G has nearly all the original parts on it. I want to clean, scrub, polish, anodize, zinc, and rebuild the bike using all the parts that came on this bike from when it was first in the showroom.
Anyway, pics below of day 1.....
(https://4dukja-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mHslAxBCC5lBJA1mKMOjLg5i6PwEm-7tFERQpKqVeevJddHRSvr2wSmOzU879mDmsREDWpx8H0Gqh9mt5l4GDs5Oyg_eVbCyaiJd2RPEaIORFMidnmo6BZTZBUxHcZMOtW7R7zttFVJGG5ia-VDO7WwOG2zQ21NUvrRbPw8Ce2Ut8hCx1g6tDZiKaanvLx_IoYXksiorl7Yqr2-a7zJoMwA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
I used an orbital sander with a medium grit to really sand all the grime, yellow and everything back. After only 10 minutes, i removed most of the discolouration. Of course, it will take hours on each piece to get them perfect.. and even then, i have a few small cracks to repair.
(https://bslpyg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mUjeIIdoGsEIMC3yAPHvJabpgvmdGH4bKMXtfQTt9qnnH_9U448FStnxSWQ0-VBaUW0Y6WOzYZr-HuIc22dGaaMBvcTrG1MrMDu89m0sL73oM1Puh5aJD8lSlI7B63MLkQkYGMny3fRcYEm2KSXi744gCFqwTwqjXbwGAvMa4vcfWNKozglEaPBpzYMY0Pomz831umBG1AiVC-I_A_Vnhhg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
The tank will take a lot of work, but the inside was pure white, so the outside will come up great with a lot of work.... Also, the original front plate is toast, but it is on now showing the original mounting brackets....
(https://4dt16g-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mms9pLs0iCBi3p35h5hQduYG6DIN2P2P8OKxeVF3i3AXhA2QLimgCqPI6BNQPseEPK1RE_wFf9h6x-8L0StYgKBghJCR3gJXH1eBAPVTyC3XC6H_NCzIHPljR4XXvGe9In4exhhdOruD-rA7LK6wBDBaH1UZBvUeBjrE-qPv366zRepUQKPgHD16n2t5fJM3azqC1DN33-cfPr5OGD2qgAQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Under the seat, its all in reasonable condition and stock. The muffler is like new, but needs a really good clean up. Shock needs a rebuild and everything needs the full monty...
(https://4dvadq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mtYsJWRGG_v0UnIRQsRtOLiUygeicrmkRfcIID7gGadWd7Y4ej8TUiiGGOOZamF7LWeErIO5ZMmYgqdQaoLab-tRn6WeuxbOB0aEPxD5HUv-qtu1xZTlWXWrBSNIja3WGXqTj1F_E2P5uN7hLW0qMYMU-o58xVkxEbfckD6Kzoppi41fx5B-F2eD9o07ecfKqV0HYxqtSr9mwe9wd1w_Cow?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Its a shame the front plate is so cracked up. They are rare as rocking horse shit. There are some rubber caps missing from the tops of the forks.. i have nos ones on the way..
(https://4ds4ug-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mOJFlVPXfu8dxhZX-SGHoJME66kcTCNxFbFn-81Uri7xRv5Et2KmKaoWsnylNdue9Xk9_6AAky5uhPS_p73JEK87TQEQIN4NZeeUtjEN914hHW7B_bbtRn3NLLOwp96DzLV2p5u0V5NiOS9mg_ogs41Tq1iylOWVZsmbLvFOM-m6U0ALZnuU-Cc7JgfRcvxW3dAJddKNUqK92QyYOxbAuow?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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There is a vintage guru in Canada name Tim Lee. He creates perfect reproductions of warning labels. He is making me a full set for the G. This includes the one below, including the original serial numbers. Also, the KYB fork decal, and two rear mudguard stickers, one of which shows year and month of manufacture.
(https://4dsqaq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4muI2r7-punQkCNf_MPDUG1Sjx580eoSTvuPmPHzQXKBTC7RJTFRZqCVl1JvvRQIqUrEUlJhY4zuqCj34vQJjOgvbM9ckGAeZ7TmpmhDUlcHeyCLKVv7n9Mz2xGPaeK12hD0oSVb6DI3ANUD4Tubg2MxWYit7TXiPLqKrQvdYxJTgWxPRVHW-LxYGvtUjXMDC3lGKZTmdr7AutksxrjTUxTQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
She still has the original front DID decal. I can get perfect repro ones on Ebay. All my original decals will come off and be saved in a folder. The rims will need to be stripped and reanodized. Spokes rezinced, hubs done etc...
(https://4dsjga-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m4HxSk7gxgwzULvOfaG8qjg5EDPTIDSnoB-IGrHFP3BBMiH8gkI8Cbrr6CNJCSP7fOUbCeGrecpQ5AqpWBEflbtx9bZ7b5z3Vkg2TDFllfHaLG_Zi8cyP4qmPu1sPZ6-_Pen1EAVh5WyO75ciOHLkdnuQ7Ga81-_bWxYRjTAcs7csspOfaFFYvxho2ffRPPOyLilbYt-3a7k-1afpFc_6yQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
The bars, grips and throttle cover are all original. Bars need straightening. The levers are not OEM, as they had notches in them for your fingers. I have some original polished alloy ones at home.
(https://4dtuow-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m-5rcpNlNwhucYF7VBDvZABPfmbmmy0ixc24oIUrA4OYUBKwtfmg9ZWwn4UG-N33FJAZZs-Pr8d47cP9B3mVAh9fE7Uba6aePbasdqJEq2ywfzY37fPqt2FKZX7rwIixc0wXwXC58xVO44yyeHQVtimFnvbfKcaQfc9gANkdlGsOicpzSdQYYygqCpcFOBztA93O1W7HT7DZWLpXE-wrXZw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
The front guard is actually OK, but has a 15mm split. I hope to get this repaired and then sanded and polished back to new. Check the front tire. Its still relatively new and is the original Bridgestone M21. Another win was the gaiters. These are the originals and like new. These are super rare as they are 36mm and have 24 bellows.
(https://4dvtlg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mYIrPNjdWAtoAyPahDa319B6NE4ufH24gOkjSXI2w7y47wXlgU5BbxbdhpGejf6A3KfAxpOHPfTLEvFZhM-M0bwqY8q0JeWWlmH-2yeAYro-kJIxU5r28XiokEMIMgv6dG5a_qCYYS3IwoZNtgmrz--Qn7hyYg33ybjjHARb4JZOq2nO6FEPqwF6TvSn_IBXn4HzkCkiTS7yzWh6ryq0svQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
A lot of work to do here..
The carb still had the original boot over the cap. Everything is corroded and worn out here and will need attention. Interestingly, the kick lever, carb bands, rear brake lever and engine 6mm bolts were all done in what is know as Olive drab passivate. "Green /Olive drab (hexavalent) passivate is very popular in old motor/bike restoration and military circles due to its very specific dark matt green colour. It gives the best protection out of all available passivates, on average 200 hours salt spray to white corrosion" http://www.ddgplating.com/processes/zinc/
You can still see the green on all the parts. If you buy same parts now, using the same part number, they usually come in black. But i made the connection when i was looking closely at the brand new G (pic below) from East Coast Vintage. Then i looked closely at some original old ones on Ebay. Also my ones confirm it. This process and colour can be replicated with a kit from Caswell, which i will be getting.
(https://4dtnjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mhRKK_JQBzbpOU-L0N8MRA4vk6lefS0QtDatmxk0leqGSx3GsvcF1mUK9uMSIynFMSZs-i35H1vCjIKcHwt0vjE9OhX-DA5eQJm9j1EmweT95PVp9sFNsKC-oZZGipEWLck-79yTN8SbaAsBtsPs33C5qGojLKTPT0GvaigL_-npT2Y6W8bXOTWshUmn2zRR4H_X5d0xv5IfryT552A3WUg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://ffadjq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mVjuzyOCa11YTBPpnw0ILlOnugroLpfCqdg1NJEqituy_6jb21bE3BVBABK_Q0UgPEEwg1O1M8kB1kYkcPN_ZBJz9T7gGQGPmbFrpOOvn_IvyGBFUnK0tLomsie-__TKTLHvwGHthwYZqectaN7RSYeZmhA3IsSoUEK4V8r6wk56vMDK8Bl_MKmM6KDmqm8guIUsiRs75-7B8GTuf6Cr_-w?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Well, that's it for now. The seat has a tiny nick in it, but it's the original cover and is in excellent condition, so i will repair it. I am in the process of getting the 9 1/4" Yamaha stencil to refresh the back and sides. I also had to find another rear axle as something funky is on there at the moment. I found a G axle with all the nuts, spacers and adjusters included. These will be rezinced.
More pics to come, and up close you will see how much work really does need doing. The frame may need some minor welding touch ups and then off for a blast, prime and gloss black powder coat.
Cheers,
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Trying to squeeze in a lot of projects, but the G is the most fun.
I pulled the seat off. Hmmm some of the gussets between the frame rails are pretty rusty. I think some water has been sitting in there. Thats going to take a blast, inspection and some weld repairs.
I also noticed that my bike has a frame gusset welded in just under the airbox, on the left side, where a modern day subframe would be bolted on. All the H model frames have it, but i have only seen it on a few G's and just wondering if it came standard on later frames, or was an aftermarket item. Craigndukes nice OEM G has the gusset as well as the two that i have posted below. Anybody have any info on those?
(https://ffdnow-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mJnBtDJp1KCDQ-9d1O9O4_uJKaNK6sfOP20Z9LfoW9YNWmBAA3lHD3YhNnxPVNmfgIAv5pvQuuwbPC9PpVNfGUQSsvt5SW_DcZxDXc0r87V1xpX67a0zSG5xdEjtNO5KP-DUztGUtwx4aLqliIy1xcAAisRa71ugg6XE7zj01d1p_S5H7rALuKLviDkV00Rdg8pOj-WQY1U-dZWrt6BXhIA?width=640&height=480&cropmode=none)
(https://ffbmlw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mJXd8PeGiOx-imNGvurhsMSeO9FsNam6KxW7WmV1-WUUcSLYwHev6snLzuxjeumkoAsYlQqEwzw4ty4BsmSSB0v7KLEuuNiNsz2e0CEbGfBm7P5pvRQU6uMz4Uf1IaRBDS3TN_5mBHK8nGuBaUvIDhcWl0AdjgQanmaOfEUOUnHzUU5_A8REI2LtjeYTV6vF_1KbFA_bB1eGpKqjzaRYYeQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
I ordered a vinyl repair kit and the 9 1/4" YAMAHA stencils last night, so that i can restore the original seat cover. While i had the seat off this afternoon, i removed all the rusty staples and took the cover off. The 3R3 foam seat cover is still in great nic. I massaged Dubbin into the seat cover which cleaned and softened up the vinyl. Just the work on the seat will be time consuming. I have to clean and re zinc the 3 mounting brackets and bolts as well as refresh the stencils and repair the nics in the cover. I have a super duper heavy duty American staple gun with 6mm sharpened staples to refit the cover.
I have also ordered a ton of OEM parts like tank straps, cable guides, bolts, fork and engine oil seals, gaskets etc.. from Partzilla.
Also ordered was the full set of warning decals from Tim Lee. He has added my serial numbers so they are a perfect reproduction. Below is a pic of the full set, but my serial number for the decarbon shock will be different.
(https://ffcxug-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mhrrbC07eit8WUWOFRmprWyiOVOpC4b-VHA5eOREpdUOXdK5RTgW9I8CWwur2a-Yh6M8dwoCLy1NKP0rGtMdGJ6RKqO8VBH76dXfZoe_chLX61QJjVzzpjM14HAbOjH5pNnM0QBklwhZ9144Ey52Qt_si-m41_DXnlVzxB2pVbKccq9oCk5PO5Y9sODiklGTzCpXObLhmEywBPFZ-UDEMLg?width=628&height=528&cropmode=none)
The DID rim decals have also been ordered in the right sizes 1.60 x 21 and 1.85 x 18.
I opened the airbox and there was just a pile of rotted foam at the base. I will have to clean it up, check for spark, pop a bit of oil down the plug hole, put a bit of juice in the tank and kick her in the guts.. let you know how that one pans out.....
The exhaust has a nice crack in it and some small dings. Luckily the Pipe King is not far away and i will let him work his magic. If you have not seen his work, check him out on Facebook.. amazing!. I remember i cracked my G pipe when i was a kid. I am pretty sure the gasket wears out the the pipe vibrates on the cylinder and cracks. I have also ordered a new oem gasket.
(https://bskl6w-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mbld6Nr5YudrIHYUxoRLcCJWGuDR2UHfBJSrUPtAHC0FKjjUTOpOyv7cWfzZCUL39jNAnctY3H9SF0sArqgVVet8ne-2SaUrw2gb2f_PRW_1UsJIB8C61keDyyFxWIR3XExM3XmtdNYfjabPn6Nn0GDdH_nzKrUEHZcb87_p2vzja3nm2atteEs-kti67r-J6iy-34_YIfiBO5d52WRd7EA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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The post man came today and dropped off the rubber fork caps. These were used on a lot of the IT and YZ bikes back in the early days for a few years. They mostly disappeared pretty quick as they got knocked off, misplaced or just left of and then lost.
These are needed for a good restore, but unfortunately most people on Ebay know they are rare and not on the Yamaha parts list anymore. NOS ones cost a bit these days....
(https://ffb70q-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mwKt_3FcQCIP-HFFwmfi1asg385VRM6qLuBlPTLriMbCQ-ZrXeCH3RLh_uqKViSASlX-zip0dNNF-xW7nRMYF3uKAnTxeGdxLFySnm9nJW7MrNve2KM_pf3vaNlKMyZ3ZtvKDCJ2CFN6adIeQgMei8WT2R6n1UHtN0FOxzDAQLX4hUUvu2BG6rMWpOm7K4A4sbgbP-R2N0gpBL1jIgIeiQw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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I am sure I must of had a draw full of those at one stage. I am one of the guilty ones who could not be bothered to refit them ;)
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If you find them tucked away in the draw Rocket Frog, you will be sitting on a fortune. Per ounce, worth about the same as 24 karat gold.
Still searching for the elusive Bridgestone M22 rear tyre.
Found a reasonably priced nos chain slider that is now heading my way.
I have decided to go with the Jane zinc kit. Seems better value than Caswell.
Fun project, but it is going to have to sit awhile as work commitments have to take over...
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exactly same as Suzukis fork valve covers. partzilla sells for US 4.50 how do I know? have 1981 YZ 125 forks on my 1980 Rm 125 and caps are exactly same as my 1979 suzuki rm 125 fork valve caps which are exactly same as 1980 Suzuki Rm 125, 250 and 400 fork valve caps and probably same as all 38mm suzuki suspension forks. This is a KYB part not suzuki. KYB forks are used on lots of bikes. Not just yamahahas ;)
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Hey Tomas, i just checked the Partzilla website and can't believe how cheap the caps are and are still available. But they are for 38mm forks. My G forks are 36mm (no wonder i kept bending them when i was a kid), and they were tight to get on. Maybe there are some Suzuki caps still available for 36mm KYB forks. Someone is making a fortune...
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Hi all, looking for a nos chain guide 3R3 22199... craignduke, do you have a spare?
Cheers,
Alex..
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78' rm125c caps look the same
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yes i do
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That's good, I will pm you,
Cheers
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There's a Yam nos intake manifold on aus ebay atm that suits the G (also suits E/F & 81 IT ?) -in classic parts if you need one
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Thanks ra77,
I saw the nos one on gumtree and emailed the bloke, but it was sold. Mine is fine. I have sourced a bunch of nos parts but she doesn't really need much. Just lots of tlc.
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Just want to give a plug out to motoretro. These guys have a big range of nos parts for a variety of vmx bikes, are based in Oz, and are pretty cheap with great postal rates.
I have picked up the rear chain guides, air box lid retainer, nos gaskets and even a new 6f34 needle that I have been after for ages.
Check them out at motoretro.com.au
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Sunday arvo and i said to the boy, lets go out and get the G running for the first time. We stripped and cleaned the carby. It was full of muck, main jet blocked and airbox was full of fluff. The G has been sitting for years and years.
Put fresh fuel in the tank, checked for spark, put new oil in the tranny, pulled the airbox off, as its full of disintegrated foam and muck.. and then kicked it in the guts. The lad had control of the throttle, as i have pulled the housing apart.
Started second kick and sounded great... 30 second vid of the big day.....
https://youtu.be/8oxKaOLPIHU
Next is to get the throttle back together, whack the seat on and run it through the gears up the street like a hoon....hopefully there are no problems..
Then she can finally be pulled down for her rebuild.
Cheers,
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Too lovely, I have the IT175H always thought it would be nice to get the long legs off the 125 and dress her with the yellow plastics from the US model and run the yz higher revving pipe. Your young fella loves it eh ;D :D 8)
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The boy loves it ITDOG. He has his own toys though. A 1979 RM80N that we are still trying to get running.. a JR80, and a 73 silver tank XR75 that we are rebuilding and he wants to ride at some VMX meets.
Cheers,
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Well, it was like Mad Max on my street today.
I cobbled the G together, bits hanging out everywhere, no seat cover or side plates, overalls on, no helmet..... started first kick, no choke, and idled perfectly. Took her up the street... she rips!! it was pulling wheelies just from the torque in the powerband. Ran through all the gears perfectly.
Only downside was there was no clutch. Looks adjusted right, actuator goes in, but no clutch at all. This is only a minor, as after sitting all these years the plates are probably all stuck together. I will look at it in the rebuild.
So... time to strip her down, clean the frame up and weld up the small rusty bits... then off to the powder coaters on her long road back to glory..
Cheers,
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Although it is extra work, there is some advantage to finishing the project before powder coating the frame. Then stripping it back down and getting it done.
It's a little heart braking :o to find you need to weld, heat, grind, or drill, something during assembly if it's freshly coated.
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Thanks Skypig. Im hearing ya, but im also impatient. I did notice the frame needed some adjustment to make the rear guard sit right. I have also noticed some rust holes. I tested a spot with a wire buff. Eats the rust and takes it back to bare metal in seconds. I am going to wire wheel the entire frame back to polished bare metal, repair all holes, check it thoroughly and then get it done. Cant remember, but does powder coating cover small pits in the steel. I may be able to flap disc them out, but i think my powder coater uses a high build primer.
Last pic of the old girl before she gets the tear down....
(https://h81xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m6lq1KwKuMxNLuozytfMkJr-naisKF1SIP98krv8BJ1iMIeWxj2g-Jz56-d9etlDAzAlP1eR5pXlqCcucKa7SISYVkRsLAe1WvYjDLPWEos3QlOCPJn4kSfaP-Vojt7Rum3CqQpU9EcOthqh9wOsaqtSJ3i5UdNRKHp-nAAoO6CbHnzsJPU8Ylf05cEj1Qq9OLvdumX797Bpq8pkMvALROg?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
I now have most parts to begin the rebuild. Its going to be a long slow process but should be good fun.
Below is a pic of the decals i have collected.. rim, rear guard, fork leg, tank and side covers.. plus some stencils for the original seatcover made by Stencilmaster. I have included the airbox lid retainer as an example of the nos parts i have been collecting... lots of goodies.. plus i now have a mig, plastic welder, zinc coating and anodizing kit.
Tim Lee made the shock decal and it is an exact replica down to the serial number of my shock! The rear manufacture decal has been date stamped as well.
(https://js1xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m7R8oQq_LRmKBytBWSKak4tg02DjRtcagp0Mf7V1vWBDw48JvNMqo_ZUSftQ6U9iIzrbka-itM-JXa8becEOJmvPgmRGGQSEBhXc9z-r4qhDfdmM-cMy5OPF4FJTgw_guQHpuXZOQRapbpiJHTv3L2Y2J0aZ9nHRCRjHYs9PWg6GNZX9jZxf0N-0so2pc9IkBYXslkAR9itz4yGrRLIgopg?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Progress pics as i go. Feel free to nit pick as i am aiming for bike as close to the showroom floor as possible. Although i want to use as many of the original parts from this bike as possible. Pipe will be off to Pipe King for the treatment soon...
Cheers
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Hit a major hickup last night.
Stripped the bike down and the last bolt, which was the swingarm pivot/engine mounting bolt was seized solid. No amount of pounding would move it. It would not even turn.
Got the heavy ammo out this morning and used a 1/2 drive air rattle gun, an electric Hilti set to hammer, dremmel, a propane torch and a can of penetrant.
Took a while but the constant heat, electric hammer, rattle gun and lube finally broke it free.. but had to sacrifice the pivot bolt (mushroomed bolt ground back down with dremmel).
(https://gs1xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mkgpnm0m67noMbCvNTzkUCdnH16ZQxjHLcShQ1hWTEEZGRLo2p0rsM0JRq7f3czGwUjSB23BxEprdGOmHI5RcetTUFRAEi9RxYOR6YZgteYJDGTkW1RIPeXTMnla3uPKNwM4SC1QzVAv2ASukkuX9QP9cOAhHgE0SOE2t-OwD6VZ9JNOqBF9kt8c7zLYcI1_10rqK45x7kzg5s2ML7o4tgQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
I got stuck into it with a wire buff to remove all the rust and check out the weld and any cracks etc..
Come up pretty well..
(https://jc1xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m7VTdhuxS5rqI8yYgmPh65SGKbuXaxmhvXIIR8S_fVW1762_eoDqZJYBxCwP3e_NdkWZN_FXfbdNxax_DBbIo5gSX26QBuDYToLfn1m-RrkpD-UiZ9n-JL6Fyj33x2on8nEd8ncEr-7rXpTZqH2xIU5gDLIJkTNT9WObouigxUErk4eT_N5IT9KSoSQPe_0lGkdH1xVm8zkz7SLI8ocsnog?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Cool frame number...
(https://i81xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m_GHH4GX_J5xwmybOPjeuC-bjBd8MHF5Nh9JvBlijfiS0dfslB_L77zzyIEMD_mIPbOtDJxeERdUyNQ1oS2GAm2ukJcoNYA6Frej6aGyEQHDXoc2S4npKWGNOV4gBMvu9s6ZkTh5uGRmDSPZIfuh9ElN8CFWnrjtl7fOduEgSgWWgUaz2HpBOW_vJFLGtwOf5nroOiRB5DVNZrwY00AZ71A?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
The frame is about 90% good. No missing tabs, all original, good steel etc.. but the 10% is terrible. The gussets in the seat rails have rust holes... and there is some pitting in some areas of the frame and one small hole in a down tube.... repair time...
(https://jm1xba-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m3hDOznnGL5UaUhYpN_dyPiixgfzxPotj17vkaz4IaAMQHvDIgu5hCMRgid3N3SHPrXx--fzsEDQTP8-_Cw3t0BQuTW7y8fadSKQv21ul_FeLnJN60D4_bfpgG8TCvVIXnSSiPNflfvEKuOcR3IkGELPl-mY5Xkn64W4nmA3lFuZl0gqVLYsliZsdj6FoW1jLi-L96bGiX_9f10jGnGr9pQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
I may have to replate the gussets, use my mig to fill one or two holes, flap disc out the pits, use rainex to transform the rust inside the tubes and then when i am happy.. it will be off to the powder coaters..
Cheers,
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I cut out the rust from the frame and welded in some new plate to the gussets. Tig would of been good to zip it all up, but i only have my mig...
(https://im3wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mETR8iUR7NrFBqt7fU5HYRE3kXU3Fs1kUfasq-ZJN7brgX3bBVub-JKngPGzdhXQA7-Mz5dUTla325FqOU_H4sWdKE9G-mSg1B9CJUNcXp1ULTeBDFKxZU_U0smF27l0vCSnxaOma-xodsOATMLMjHOfSq8CkJCtan6L255ebp7_ttxQm3jPxTR1gFtyhtMdLBzvv-5ZoM2DbORyLvXiVeQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
I had the original front number plate with the bands that strap it to the forks. However, the white surround had perished while the black number plate and mount system was good. If you could ever find one, they can run up to $700. I decided to transplant my original black plate into a DC replica G plate. It worked out well. Made it an interference fit with the dremel, file and lots of time. Once cleaned up, i used the Selleys 2 pack plastic glue that is made for polyethylene and polypropylene.
(https://h83wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mGpe9BNI1L1A28nlMszMHOvnbyGIA0vkTDYpUqISgsn5UKPltNhu59QXzhQAfMH9DAWoaP5zpoKZPsCpmZD1t2jXhGlt6p71gRlpkasBUwtYWF-XwOdQe_J6zCNogiI8pdk-UX75DhCKQKeWKwlj559H4qowTgTDd7sBSUSPxKZV4dzYvtIYx4xJEw-PFyJ-k6W3vMxoXXVstu_aCi_fxyg?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Its not finished yet. I still have to mold the top of the plate so it fits around the bars. Then the front of the plate will need prepping and painting sating black taking the black out a bit further to the edge so that the white border is not so large.
(https://jc3wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mIzpvClijndBTpwE1ftzi9-ybhQKH1yxpc2pulE5j65MeQCr_rRtr6_pZBJp9jyGbfhVPShIKj11OmLOieuOJGdPXG9dEY8P9WGA2KbKWAT0IauooYzNu89FsKiCGnx-iMP3Dk5dBCX-_bzut1k9UMumL2id1CohgG_YGiv7IU8ADwi-F5eqTRMDY5n90nTSq-wOtpn8e5twJQvDBR0dhbw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
(https://js3wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mecsHQAvrTMpsfZg9MM8D4f0gNyLe486eUByE4XDC-kaM8P2UsYQQFWpWlNwffnxnNbYUPzVgXcBEzzJIgM0XpSNPMB6k1Pl8Uz3JR0qYIc4l72X6l0vhjs1qlN-bcgy7WIGoG4beztr1Iu5LxjuZcRSniqt8G7vb_iH7cYKc0XDo9T0KlhjKvDEvlh6JHDywoRuxHPwGCLe0mb_7TNJ8hQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
Perfect fathers day... got up and tinkered on my bikes.. daughter came out with a cup of coffee.. now kids are making me bacon and eggs..
I trimmed the rare front number plate some more and am about 50% through working on it. I am happy with the progress on it. Will still need some sanding and polishing, and then i am thinking of getting some vinyl ovals made up with my old original race number. There is a mob out there whereby you give them the exact measurements of you ovals top/bottom side/side and they will make them with personalized numbers, borders etc.. I think that would be pretty cool for my old G.
I have also been working on the original seat cover. Used a vinyl repair kit to fix a couple of minor nicks in the cover. For the seat base, i am going to use bicycle cloth stick on rim tap to put an edge around the edge so that it doesn't cut into the vinyl again.
(https://jm3wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mU2ZP4JSeSk9gsO2Uy8Msr0nMRDg7RKoXRVtalhjSO1JZpxsUP7mdciuAF9VaoxJenov1Sh-83PUnOUBwSDPwlOFjQPxhqtggucKdqJs1Jmx0Hecm181oMsjSUbymhFZegSaAjK2tjHnWz0tuu1rEFSvj1X7CwAFaBEF_26PlAVGYlr0RCjuPYH86MI48k4ICMgU4c9KstEMBhncGgRbMlw?width=660&height=239&cropmode=none)
(https://i83wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4murKHC26ce2xWBTcBA0haz2R_ySnguV080HASZtJI7o0ADEy4-dVWOfziaNAG3juHUEyQwuZuTAWDnHUMXj6y87PridQN6RnIj1IjjvD6Lmcqzm33WnI2bF4MKxRVtTqzpSCJ-9cihCJMmgv65p1Wo2XQe8JYIuFK1MgrPs53d6BvMGvRn710SO_-uyTT3wl67T5TL9EEvQP-F8z0N94Rag?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
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Nice job on the plate Alex. Your F is going to look great with the work your putting into it.
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Cheers Woody.
Has to go on the backburner for a few weeks but have some big plans for her in the next few months. I have just stripped the shock down and have ordered a new seal head and bump stop. All parts are just about ready for powdercoating.
Cheers,
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Have been in contact with Geoff at GMC. There may be a chance of a YZ125G GMC cone pipe. At the moment it's just a concept. Geoff does an It175g/h pipe. The 80/81 It175 shares the same frame and engine (albeit modified) as the yz125g. Geoff's pipe for the It is tuned for enduro work. The concept is to adapt it for MX.
I will be sending lots of pics and measurements, but does anyone have a G near his place in Broadford for final checks?
Otherwise I may have to do final cuts/mods and tig tacks and that would mean sending the pipe back and forth.
I will be sending my Oem yz125g pipe with all clearances marked out to help Geoff with fitment and design.
Cheers,
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Sorry, not been following this but looks like it's been going on for a while. Loved my old [new] G, probably was the pic of them at the time & had mine on Alky [methanol] & certainly performed well. The one & only [stupid] problem that sticks out is when the rear end stayed down & bugger me i'd tightened the axle so much [& so many times in a year or two] that the spacer swelled enough to stop the floating brake from 'floating' therefore the plate couldn't rotate even the small amount required to counteract suspension movement. You would think maybe end float was taken up from squashing washers end on many times but 'no' it actually expanded the sleeve through the plate so an adjustable reamer & all good--just not on the day!!. Yours look great i must say.
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Thanks overthehill, i will keep an eye on the brake arm.
Just tinkering with things over the next few weeks. Frame is nearly ready for powder coaters, but need to pop engine and pipe back in to get some measurements for GMC to get ready for a cone pipe.
I mucked around with the original seat cover so much and it still didnt look right. Decided to try a replica one from Pit Replica. I got an RM80N one once, and it was perfect. This one for the G is really good too.
The grain, fit, logo size, position and correct font were all really good.
The base was in poor condition. 3 bolts snapped off in the threads, lots of rusty staples, dirt, grime etc. I removed all the staples and bolts, tapped the threads, cleaned everything up and set about installing the cover over the original 3R3 seat foam and base.
I have an Arrow T50 stapler and it does the job quite well. Have to really stretch the cover to get it to fit, and it still took over an hour to get it on.
Looks pretty good now, and i would say the seat is coming up around the 90% mark. I will polish and re-zinc the seat mounts and she will all be good to go.
(https://gc3wjw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mcAgd_lKHSncPseBC494Cin4y5NNeyLXfKWj8ExidIPgej70RRUV8yDcFs9zbXexglg3VW1ReIaLDiEhn9exphPqx7R3_1wEw5DK4Nzk7eiQ3djLl58ttV0Jnswa4HYfV-twc6DUDi_5Zuv8E87yXwHTj5u7nW9rCkH9-cpuvzx2xJUpvLL9iMzeNgFz7xsReSxIebBKIqgrZG5wyfDVuxg?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://is07gw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mJ8ecDGasliYdFeSADchNKmO-0aLFWEu40u6qZnYJplCopzFum9HRuDTlGQVPqJKa-rfnWrX-r06JjfB0gpFmyjjldhaznfgjpyarBczn0V9CQDuKnB6_ecuRaT9SPfdRz8weTXdnY9wRRgsHakH7GnLs7812ZIbcnCAu8gFT4XGRcWa-Dazaw7-Ab3wF-JCxl2arhY-uAh4UCrSs9JAm1A?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
I think i have most of the parts now to do the G rebuild. The shock seal head and bumper arrived the other day along with a bunch more parts.
A bunch of stuff has to go to the powdercoaters and i have to prep and zinc a ton of stuff. The shock will be going out for a rebuild, GMC is doing a pipe and silencer and i still have to repair and prep the plastics.
I have decided to deviate slightly from a full on OEM build and just have some slight changes.
I am leaning towards stripping the anodizing from the rims and polishing them up, together with re-zinced gold nipples and silver zinced spokes.
The GMC cone pipe will be polished and welds blued and then clear coated.
The OEM painted aluminium swingarm will be stripped, sanded, polished, then a grain added with a scotch brite and then clear coated.
The number plates are having my old race number and name on custom vinyl oval backgrounds.
Besides that, most everything else will be OEM, NOS or replica of original.
Cheers,
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My old race number on the G when i was 16 was 278. I was a restricted license holder and we had to run yellow numbers on a black background. We also had to butcher our plates and make them square to conform to regulations.
This pic is in 1980 at Coastal Park and has me getting me usual crap start with Harry Banken next to me (bike 56 YZ125G) and a young Jeff Leisk on Honda bike 5.
Needless to say, Jeff wiped the field. But, at the Prince of the Cross race at Southern Cross in the same year, Harry Banken on his G hands down beat Jeff Leisk in what i still remember as the race of the century. They were battling all race and it was Jeff who made the mistake and went down. Harry deservedly won and the G had its day of glory.
(https://pkt5pq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mFEVN9B_u-3SAnyakHv2_70Gf_a5tXd1d3BxZP5-tbzj5fkHfY4LGuKpVa0UhYqhAnO8kzY8WMPfnXGE-JAU3xdyy2rGbY17GMI2oc2AW2_6brdHjJ1lmfqcL83X6QPTzod6t9Z8B0acF5sbkBwo0X8j6EDz5ym5aiuUAGqxdEx24d4nZqEXDjQTW8BTbMEvEXPPvQcQQMlpARtSeB1eKkQ?width=660&height=549&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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Geoff at GMC has given the green light on the cone pipe concept.
I put the bike back together for a photo shoot. Cleaned and repainted the oem pipe and fitted it with the oem bracket and original muffler.
I then went around and measured and marked every point on the pipe that is in close proximity to other parts, such as airbox, frame, mudguard, sidecover etc.. Ended up with about 50 measurements all over the pipe. Also had the check the pipe was sitting square in the spigot and everything was mounted correctly.
This is not the normal way GMC would build a pipe. I believe he does normally require a bike. But, in this case, he already builds a silencer for the G, and he builds an IT175G pipe, which has an almost identical frame and motor. He has also looked at the clearances and believes he can do it. As part of the concept, i will be trial fitting the final product, and i can make any minor modifications with a tig and send it back so that he can finish off the final jig and give it the thumbs up.
It may take a bit of effort, but i think it will work out great.
Just one of the 50 or so pics....
(https://gc21ew-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mqWIKqFsDAYpntVVWRzKTajfBysdCNsw5N_3JqX4wEeDopjpOk2oeTte97CNMQQQnVSKL8DVmXjg1qSfVGESloZHBa_otTbKDeKkd1bBDxV_vXhiJ4GihommG6-xJL42C7nhDyqPtjxB-DOb4VBcNen6x1w9gVstlo9iHxu4cH0PjnATQURcVWcSYIgUqpcolTmilv3rQmFgEGhl2Tl473g?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
You are going to get setbacks as you rebuild these old girls.
This old girl must of been sitting in a damp barn for years, covered in crud.
On final inspection before the frame went to the powdercoaters, i noticed a pin head hole in the gusset which attaches to the down tube. More prodding led to a some rot. I think its a common problem on these older YZ's. Moisture and crud has got in behind the gusset and sat. This rotted some of the gusset out, and started a pin hole in the main down tube, which slowly grew to be about 10-15mm in diameter. The only thing to do was cut the gusset off, and cut away a main section of downtube back to good metal.
I will now fabricate some new panels to go in. For this i have 3mm plate, but really would like 2mm. I also have to hit my dad up for some tig welding, which means i am up for a bottle of argon. Still, its a win win. I get to spend some quality project time with dad, and the job gets done satisfactorily.
(https://v0fpka-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mtdQSkugTtTIjiMQpigvyQTW5uzrpa3gOxeqVKdefe-eYqVq7ZlaSgP7O6lzv1oobidWJBZyIgyD4umsxGXbr2a1mtUZpMS5k8zoYcCP95kzvkd8Um1-1qPm7JxGXE0037p5r-ZEf652pDyWcpLgFgAT-TdROj2LWhgkndoRg1YxN4xP8asm3VwjdGtIkGCs1ubJM7egrVdh_GGWXHQvWMw?width=660&height=493&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
Unfortunately that's pretty normal for those model YZ's, the gussets are a moisture trap that eats out the frames from the inside, any other secondhand frame will most likely be the same.
I would try to squeeze a tube or part thereof inside the downtube and plug weld in before welding a patch back in, the longer the better. When you make your patch make it with a 2mm gap all round so your weld will penetrate through to the tube inside.
Ideally you would be able to squeeze a tube in from the bottom but there is probably mounts and things in the way that stop you doing that so your going to have to perform some magic tricks to get it in there.
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Ho man, this frame is becoming a headache....
I do have some ideas.
I should be able to slip some 38mm (1.5") exhaust tube down inside the main downtube. I can cut a section to drop in, slide it along, fit another section in, then slide it back half way, fully weld them together and then plug weld it. That should strengthen the area.
Next step would be to make a patch section to fit in, and as suggested, leave a gap so that the whole thing will be welded to the internal pipe and frame. That will take care of the downtube.
The final step is to make a new gusset. I want to keep it as original looking as possible, but replace the entire thing. For this, i hope to use a 45 degree bend 32mm (1.25") mandrel bent exhaust section. I can slice this lengthwise and it will give me the radius and bend i will need, as the original was a pressed steel molded section. I will also fabricate the sides out of sheet metal and all this will be tig welded to 47mm o.d piece of pipe which will be sliced lengthways to fit over the downtube. The whole gusset can be fabricated, welded and flap disc smoothed off the bike, and then fitted and tig welded.
If the bike was to be raced, i would probably seal weld the gusset, with perhaps a small drain hole at the bottom, but i want the frame to be as close to OEM as possible, so the option i am taking will keep it looking original, but be stronger than it was when new.
Sending the pipe to GMC this week, then the project goes on hold again for a while.... got to get my two YZ125K's going again..... it never ends......
Cheers
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Sounds like your onto it okay, these jobs are always fiddly and I have done this same sort of repair before but all brands have some sort of uniqueness just to keep you on your toes.
Patience is the key
Also when you finish it off only use a grinding wheel to take the bulk of the head of the weld off, leave taking the last bit of weld with a sanding disc.
Not a fan of flap discs myself and much prefer sanding discs, I like the 75mm quicklock style discs, you can get the fitting that holds them to fit onto a 4" grinder and when your done sanding slip on a medium scotchbrite disc and no one will know its been done.
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The joys of the YZ G/H Frame rot repair.
Performance metals in Sydney sell a wide range of 4130 Tube with a variety of wall thicknesses. If you buy a heavy wall tube with that has enough meat to turn (or have centerless ground) that will telescope up into the downtube and then plug weld to stitch it in place, you will have a good permanent repair.
The front engine mounts have a anti crush spacer welded thru the frame at the base which stops the tube from passing. The wall thickness on the spacer is generous enough to bore out to so it will accept a specially made sleeve to re install once you over size the internal bore and cut out the spacer tubes from the bottom. Leaving the welded tubes in place ensures correct alignment after the repair is complete with out needing to Jig, Geoff will dig what I am talking about but perhaps some diagrams or photos may help if you are not following.
The seam weld on the original Down tube then becomes a problem to get a nice tight fit. A light groove machined or carefully ground axially along the tube will allow the inner repair splice to key slot into the outer tube. Freeze the inner and warm the outer to assist fitment.
The other option is tunnel boring the frame, which is not practical. I have set it up in my lathe but decided not to go that way. The tube is thin and alignment must be perfect, plus most of these old frames are not straight enough anymore. Thorough internal cleaning and light polishing is recommended to assist fitment of the repair - which must be a good solid fit to effectively transfer the bending loads.
When the inner is fitted up (bridges the damaged section) past the cracked section and extends out the bottom of the down tube, plug weld (through previously drilled holes) to hold in place. The small amount of excess tube extending from the base of the frame is trimmed after the welding is carried out.
Drill off (transfer the holes) from the engine mount anti crush tubes to the inner repair and slide the fabricated sleeves through. A 45° weld prep angle machined onto the ends of the sleeve and a 45° counter bore in the oversized frame sleeve allows for a nice weldment that can be carefully filed back to match the original dimension. Some tacks on the upper tube from the inside are done before the lower tube is installed, then the lower is internally tacked.
GMC is all over it on the Gusset repair, once again Performace metals can supply a tube mandrel bent to take the place of the rusted gusset that you have cut from the frame. The original piece is a stamped section, the repair piece will be a full tube gusset that is plated in on both sides to disguise the fact that there was a repair there at all. Carefull notching to make a nice joint to weld is key making sure the welding goes smoothly and the amount of weld bead material is minimal. The plating would be optional for a racer as the tube gusset will be plenty strong enough to omit the plates, this allows for effective cleaning of the area. Plates installed with a lightening hole is also an option to facilitate access to clean out the gunk and get some paint into the closed area to protect the metal. Either way the repair will look Sano.
It is a lot of work and it will be expensive once you have bought the materials, paid for labour that you may not be equipped to execute yourself, and post heat treated the frame (postage, couriers etc). If you mig weld in a crappy gusset, you might just as well bog it up and paint it nicely for display only in my opinion. There is a lot of load on that section of the frame and it will be dangerous to allow a sub standard repair.
This problem plagues 1980 - 1981 YZ (+82 YZ490) and 1980 - 1982 IT models with a single downtube frame, in other words 125, 175,250 and 465/490 from 1980 -82.
I get this come up a lot, as they are popular models and they all suffer the same deterioration. I feel like I need to offer a repair kit? Perhaps Geoff would consider this as a stock supplied kit + specialist fitment as this is most likely going to be necessary for most owners.
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without reading it all yet [later] i was given an IT250K frame which i kept the s/arm off but had rotted through the front downtube from the inside near just above the engine mount area by memory. Was years ago but fair shocked me at the time. Still have a 250k with a yz465h motor [worried now bugger it, better check before the wheel base gets stretched landing from a jump lol].
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GMC can do fix anything. Ask him for photos of my Pomeroy pipe!! J
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I made a former to make the curved inner section of gussets from a plumbers pipe bender and a machined roller. You can form enough thin sheet(0.6 or 0.8mm) in one go to make the whole gusset
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Thanks for all the input fella's.
Rocketfrog, i can pretty much see the repairs you are taking about and went in my shed to nut it out. I can drill out the existing engine mounts at the bottom of the downtube. I have found replacement tube (12.5mm o.d) 1.5mm wall thickness tube on Ebay for only $10. I can use an extension on a drill to clean up the downtube internally. I am pretty sure the i.d of the downtube is 38mm and 1.5" exhaust tube may be perfect. I will take the frame to my local exhaust dude tomorrow. Then it would be easy to drill holes, fit the internal pipe, plug weld, fab the new engine mount crush tubes, tig weld etc.. all that is relatively inexpensive, but time consuming. But i will look into it and post pics up.
Fabricating the gusset is also interesting as i want it oem, and it has roughly a 45 bend while going from narrow to wide and having a plate. I also picture what you are talking about with welding plate to a mandrel bend, which is what i originally had in mind.
Lozza, do you have a pic of your former. I can't quite see how you fabbed your gussets, but i am interested.
GMC, i have a variety of 5" grinding and knifing discs and several grades of flap discs. Yep, have to be careful with them, or can take away a lot of metal. I also got myself a 80mm cordless disc sander with about 100 velcro backed discs of various grades, so should be able to get a reasonable finish i hope.
Read up on welding chromemoly to mild steel and there doesnt seem to be much of a problem. Not sure if some pre and post heat would help eliminate weld cracks.
You guys have set me up for a bit more work than i was hoping, but i am up for the Pepsi challenge....
Cheers,
(https://tug0gw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mxrJ70tCfswjiHXPveJMgntV9Czk0BGUBbf-xiWjhPgstCDkYepZmiBRoKTbthfH_AvC0DXFnttS2cqjHZVHumZdgJU-uKoFYBA4Kfe939h_whFH71vN8U3roAF1Z7Z5mTC8Bs1ng3Xj7RkGHWvPS-OeDGi4RO77qKd1Pdnn2i5zUc7nYITPLNWJKj5cENPdeRZdZWA2OIPWQegRHJ6wXng?width=660&height=505&cropmode=none)
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GMC can do fix anything. Ask him for photos of my Pomeroy pipe!! J
Yes I fixed it, but it is now suffering a severe case of 'grandfathers axe' syndrome
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In a nut shell, Cro-Mo is basically mild steel with the addition of Chromium and Molybdenum (and some other elements) so yes it can be welded fine to mild steel with either Mig, Tig or Oxy.
Tig will give you the most control over the amount of weld filler and penetration although some others may argue the same for Oxy.
It can be welded with filler rod grades ER70, ER80 or ER90
ER70 is your normal Mig wire and you can use mig wire as a tig filler when you need a small diameter filler
ER 80, also known as Cro-Mo 2
ER 90 also known as Cro -Mo 1 and this is what I mostly use for my frames.
The up side of Cro-Mo is it is much stronger than ordinary mild steel
The down side of Cro-Mo is it becomes brittle in the heat affected zone of the weld which is not the weld itself but the part right next to the weld and it requires heat treating to bring it back to its normalized condition where it is at its strongest.
You will here also sorts of ways to do this heat treatment but I prefer to send it off to the experts that can do it in a controlled oven.
However I don't consider any of the manufacturers frames have used aircraft grade 4130 Cro-Mo
If you want to go down the 4130 path I have an assortment of offcuts in 2mm plate and various tube diameters and thickness, let me know what you need.
I think you should be fine using mild steel for this repair as you will be adding more material to carry the load. As Cro-Mo is stronger less thickness of tubes can be used which is where the weight saving comes from so by the same token you can use more mild steel to create more strength.
Give your exhaust place a miss and check out your industrial suburbs for steel suppliers, you should find some one that will sell you a few metres and they can also get in tubes that have a 2mm wall which would be better for your inner reinforcement, I have some here but can't recall what diameter.
Your industrial suburbs will be a better place to find industrial supplies rather than the likes of Bunnings etc.
The reinforcement tube you slide up inside you wont get a perfect fit as any welds on the original tube will suck in the wall so it won't be perfectly round, the important thing though is to get some plug welds either side of the join in the downtube to reduce the load on the join.
As the join in the down tube is covered by the gusset so you should be able to leave the head of the weld on for strength as it won't be seen.
12.5 tube with 1.5 wall sounds too thin for engine mounts
A 8 or 10 mill rod that will fit into your drill should help to clean out the down tube, cut a slot in the end that you can slip some emery cloth (around 100-150 long) into that will wrap around the rod
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Welding thin CrMo is not a problem. Preheat only becomes necessary for thick sections where the heat soaking will be slow (high amps required and concentrated local heating = Heat Affected Zone HAZ cracking).
Heat will soak through thin tube quite rapidly and so the entire joint will heat through adequately throughout the welding process. Allow the weld to cool naturally, the slower the better. Make sure all the fit up is good and the parts are not under tension when fitted in place, in other words, if the part must be secured with vice grips or clamps because it tends to "spring" away from the mating section - rework it until it stays in place naturally.
Because of the amount of work going into a major structural area of the frame, Post heat treatment is definitely recommended to normalise the material. The recrystalisation of the metal surrounding the weldment is what creates weaknesses at the grian boundaries and leads to cracking. When you weld metal, you are essentially creating a small casting type crystal arrangement by remelting the metal and allowing the alloying elements to migrate however they please which is not the ideal dispersment for type of strength stated for any given spec.
Rolling or forging a Gusset would be great. This gusset is a compound curved section which would require some accurate dies and heat and a good degree of fettling to produce but could be done.
I will definitely drop in on this build as it developes Alex, you do a right proper job on your bikes.
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I dropped the kids off at school this morning, as i have some time off work.... also took my frame with me in the back of the car.
Went to a "Metal Land" type place... didnt have much in the way of anything i needed... water pipe, wrong o,d's etc.. went to a few scrap yards... nothing. Ok, time to hit my local exhaust dude. Showed him the frame and he got some 38 o.d pipe about 600 long. It was a tight squeeze but would fit the down tube when i did the mods. Next up was a scrap piece of 41 o.d to replace the bit of down tube i cut out. Then 47 o.d to go over the top of the downtube for the gusset.
I walked out with a handful of tube for $10. Next stop Bunnings to get some grinding stones for the drill and some bubble wrap for the pipe i am sending to GMC.
Ok, first pic below is when i got all set up and ready to rock.
I used Rocketfrogs advice and used a 12.5mm drill bit to drill out the crush tubes at the bottom of the main down tube. These tubes are for the engine mounts. They are much thicker on the outside than on the inside. So, drilling them with a 12.5mm bit removes the internal tube, but leaves a nice spacer mount for when you want to tig some new crush tubes back in.
Next step was to use an extension i had and following GMC's and Rocketfrogs advice i bored, ground and smoothed the internal tube. This took a bit of work but i got it done with some grinding stones and some emery placed in a slot on a length of threaded bar i cut to size. I also drilled some holes for the plug welds.
Finally i could tap the 38 o.d exhaust tube into the existing down tube. I got it approx 570mm along the tube right up to the stem. This will be as strong as an ox. The tube is also lightly galvanized so i guess a bonus will be a bit of corrosion protection.
Once the internal tube was in place, i trimmed the end off ready for a tig weld, and redrilled the engine mount holes at 12.5mm. I will insert some new tubing through the frame and tig them into position.
I have some 12.5mm tube coming which is 1.6 wall thickness. Thats all i could get and not much different from what i chopped out. With the thicker downtube and the crush tubes only being 45mm long, i think i will be OK.
(https://u0ezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m_8AB1-OKAttyMgSWEQtABLuKsD7TEi5mJzsy3TsRWQRS537G34JEY8QSRXE2lQXLl2pyFO69Oj5BAFUjIoVl-T9JFmeMDuJpIeNJN2dYfW82Dox8xXbc7d2Uj6tpLLu0NyN-LXIHl8kFjIT0M7lb9aBZnZ7EhCO_AJYhxdqeTnA8lu_vO1Vi_ZoU_MK8JRDyvm21vbjbZS_oWc4IEpcHEw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
(https://veezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m8BqXRtVg7tOr1W3Uo2pPYJlVfuKF37AjSav6lczZdcmb9M3qU8V1Sa-6FMUfvVITtmTgdJOF5DqS0jhmaY1dOvosw9z_97_NTOj1iC1x_kSYkKXI8cuCZPgIsvvUDH0atEEqGn6R57wG_lcJ-C7yEYlra4MDyPbB1bQGKZih0IC6002dA00-5KeHKIgPaO6_b2hE8p-HazEHG7IHSa-Ykw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
As you can see below, the new inner down tube has gone right through the frame and now acts as a strong back. In fact it goes right up to the steering neck.
(https://vuezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mwLRpF_YVld8hgIcUEuPpV4TaKztxil14N4LbjWYeCPuydi6QAMkNLZ9rUfYqDfsq-jkj2555-ZJvvEnQG-RWynhfzHaashBZTDcBoHO73eNHlzuGYbXmrUP35KhZ0I_fKvIM0cRGLWjLSH3ehZcrCmpvEncaAhPLeeRBy2N1x_7Q21L5mbWn5teUFXUutDTJpcvzSbIuQDueG0wrW37NmA?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Next pic below, i used the 41 o.d tube to fabricate a panel to replace the rusted section of downtube. The new section has a 2mm all around. This bit of advice from GMC is so that the new panel, new insert tube and existing frame are all welded together to create a super strong repair.
(https://ukezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mjD2osc5FcZ3vRvqGa2rveyz_Qe3NyzCSoPNm9MIQSkjqxOSq4WV-v9jkvClk7G2nei8kKfK3JBhp-vAXgw24_TJfBHud8Q9eW7C20fusCOhBtJqyMJgP3qX3T0uftqcbqu4Wvlq0nchTdsIN85q4cwa09811ioUsitQHwDcKu2yOG4mz9_TkHJ3ysng_tZmnFSSHGoYKaafosOdDTmdyeQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
All the plugs, welds and patches will be done later with the tig, when i organize my dad and some argon.
The next pic is when i decided to get stuck into the gusset. The original gusset was just a bit of relatively thin sheet metal pressed into a U bend shape with a nice 45 degree angle incorporated.
Thats a bit hard to fab up..... or is it? I looked around my shed, and bingo!!, a set of old steel bent handlebars laying around just waiting to get put back into service....as a gusset.
This gusset will be stronger than the original. I used a half round section of 47 o.d pipe as the base. This hugs the downtube and mates up nicely with what i had cut out.
I then used the bend in the bars to come up with this.....
(https://weezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mvWIbloSuclhohA0zap39_63pmqLgcJhAePm1XyLl6hh12XlngLyPDOsmYw02iMKzy7Sc69kjvRlempJKOKCyu_Lg0BbVIrXClKJoZV22qUwqxkpEpTpFlpO6O59rBzw02FLT4bsmbxx29I7H94SliLCeWr9gHMByL_qf2ih-uoB-_G1my2_Jzl_jTqtkHzn5KJ8SwV4BJ8ASCBESopheEQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Finally, i used my 3mm plate to make insertion panels and complete the gusset. I now have a super strong gusset that fits perfectly and mates up to the old surfaces and looks almost OEM. Of course, all the tubes, insert panels and gusset has to be fully tigged up, but the fab work is mostly done.
(https://wuezpw-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mbpj4V_N2Kzblh2zDOHwk3gR22yzcktcJ3fNEiQ8jN13MIIvV3kl55cl8XCizgXvq1aB8pgPQzqrhkH9gs9YfnNdKQKf6JVU-pea08vK2Ks-Au6quPf0VaPBBoVgq8gfA2CYgsyQ-8o6NRUzoIOBSCiXsL5ZNHHrCWtVWWNd_WDyBh33mVdubc2WouRmVPXqQx-WMTRlfIjzbD2VPJPmqJw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Now of course, there are several ways this repair could be accomplished, with varying materials, thicknesses, techniques and designs. 10 people will come up with 10 techniques.
I used some of the advice from you guys, peppered with the materials i had available, coupled with the tools and skills i possess and within a budget and time frame.
So far it has cost me $15 and 6 hours of my time. I still have to get the old fart around and get some argon, but that will be fun.. i'll shout him some Hungry Jacks for lunch.
Next stop is to fit the crush tubes and get everything zipped up, then another sand, smooth, check over and finally off to the powdercoaters.. which is a month away. This frame will be going up with my XR75 frame and a bunch of knickers knackers to all get done in glorious Gloss Black.
Cheers,
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great result considering the starter pac....well done
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You've done well.
Its also good to listen to lots of advice, absorb it all and then go your own way.
The only thing I would add is that you should weld the gusset pieces on the inside as well so when you sand the outside down you will have material in behind it for strength.
I think the only thing you did wrong was to use the galvanized tube, it will play havoc with the welds and your old man is going to hate you, the gal will bubble up in the weld and cause a lot of porosity and keep contaminating the tungsten.
Looks like it is too late to get the tube back out, if you can then just sand the area where the patch is going to be otherwise hit inside that trap door area with a die grinder and remove as much of the gal as you can, allthough I think the gal that's inbetween the tubes will still give you grief.
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I don't have the former any more as I was soooo shitty after making 4 or 6 of them. Was a cheap plumbers pipe bender I machined a roller to ride in the groove. Roller was held by a yoke screwed down with a large bolt. The thing that caught me out was just how much force it took to form even thin metal, the vice groaned , the bench creeked and I groaned. End result looked great but it was a lot of effort.
My No1 tip with gussets is to leave the corner and the ends over bars open
(https://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/Frame.mod/IMG00004.GIF)
(http://www.ducati.org/forums/attachments/848/46190d1308071498-rust-new-848-frame-roest2.jpg)
(http://www.ducati.org/forums/attachments/848/46192d1308071732-rust-new-848-frame-img_0911.jpg)
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You are a man of quick and decisive action Alex, I agree with GMC on the Gal - awful to weld. You can make it up to your Dad by keeping up with his welding by grinding fresh electrodes in the background.
I re-purposed some 7/8 handlebar material yesterday as well, split lengthwise it makes a nice repair patch for rear subframe spar on the chain side where the chain tries to saw through after 30 years of chain slap. I like to keep a "Donor Frame" handy for all those little brackets and tube sections such as lower frame rails that have worn thin or worn through as they do from casing out or clouting rocks.
I get imense satisfaction using all the left over bits to some good purpose.
Good work.
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Really enjoying this thread Alex. Great stuff mate. I can honestly say I have learnt!
And some very clever input coming in as well. Great old dike bike forum :)
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Yep rocketfrog, i too have a few sets of handlebars welded into the inside of my YZ125K frames to protect them from the chain!
Thanks Loz for the pics.. i kinda went the way you showed in your diagrams.
Cheers Mick and Husky , It is a great forum with some good dudes all helping each other out.
GMC and Rocket... yep, i think the galv may interfere with the tig a little. The mig tacks ate it for breakfast. The galv is only on very lightly on exhaust tube. I may use a combination of a flame to burn it off and a burr to grind it off. She'll be right.
Well, the old farts gone off on holiday, i am off to work again soon and i am waiting on some crush tube for the engine mounts. This project is now on hold for a few weeks.
Today i put some work into my 125K. Blown head gasket, blown fork seals... more work...and i want to ride it tomorrow...
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One of the best threads I have ever read on this forum (and I have read a few ;D ) Has inspired me to have a crack at my 465 frame that is the same.
Won't be doing the welding myself though ::)
What did you decide to do about heat treatment Alex ? Nothing since you used all mild steel ??
Great thread thanks 8) 8)
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Hey yz250h, glad to hear you will try to fix your old frame.
I will be home next week and start work on the frame after that.
Will use the tig rods that are compatible with chro mo and mild Steel. No heat treatment, just good fit up with no stress points. A bit of grinding, buffing and sanding and then off to powder coaters. Hopefully be better than new when finished. Updates soon....
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Hey yz250h, glad to hear you will try to fix your old frame.
I will be home next week and start work on the frame after that.
Will use the tig rods that are compatible with chro mo and mild Steel. No heat treatment, just good fit up with no stress points. A bit of grinding, buffing and sanding and then off to powder coaters. Hopefully be better than new when finished. Updates soon....
Nice work mate. I would be careful with powder coating as that is what hid the cracks in my gusset until it was too late (not catastrophic or anything). The rust can spread underneath the powder coat and you are none the wiser. Rattle cans all the way for me..
It's never nice to have a crack in your gusset :o :o
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Definitely not nice to have a crack in yer gusset... :o
I did a bit of work on the frame today. Cut the new crush tubes where the engine mounts up. I put a bevel on the tubes so that my old man can tig them up with a nice semi v prep.
(https://vefpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mSukejdLBOLxa_CNLvRlQEOK7SJ0NSWiCkXji2cVU93kWnOGRVCD9qMglrflbjJ6Ka4yNTnxwacq6Ie_w8GVo6bNBX4tRuxLDDlEtZHNtpbz4djim-bmXfSzc8A0ZYIP9XeQM_KQ4XjIEV08hjsk_JZ6NwJFQbWERJIza77Qysm-ZqvMM8GyFm1yKP_x9Oa6oV5GS2SzXNwSzK32ljl_mOg?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
I decided i didnt like the repair i did on the rear gussets, so i am cutting them out again and have some new plate to put in.
I went to Bunnings today and picked up a D size argon bottle. I will get everything prepped and tacked up so we can get it all tig welded in one hit. Still waiting on some 10mm tube to arrive (7mm i.d) for the tube that will go in the rear gussets ( the tube where the seat bolts run through).
By the time i am finished, the frame will be stronger than new and i would not think it would be subject to cracks. My powder coater dude blasts the frame, then zinc primes it, then nice thick gloss black powder coat to preserve the frame for another 37 years..
Cheers,
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Aaaaawwwww man, this is the never ending frame repair thread.
Since doing the main gusset repair, and seeing the dirt and rust trapped in behind it, i couldn't leave the rear subframe gussets without inspecting them. I had previously repaired the outer subframe gussets, but it was on my mind what was behind them.
So this morning i cut the subframe gussets off. I exposed lots of dirt, rust and some holes. I have cleaned them up, inspected the area and come up with a game plan. The first plan was to storm around in a huff and throw the frame over the fence...
(https://ukfpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mWphCYSc_G_Ug0NrR_wUjm49qgovdxX3W9_iwyLI5p0XENxxkWcjGBb6Igaob8MYOLUbGKsU22sk9C_KuYVkwRFu11N9pPM8XI12AOVTQZ0dcW_lYmSK4rq7pXKbPr7ulUIFeqSIxB2CMKUyxiISUNQkr_uDpcXi6sDL6WsBghQfc7He6M4QyFoQ90aSREk8L7ZK01HfExoX4LzUBxg5Nqw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Plan two involved having a measure up and seeing what could be done. The subframe has an i.d of about 16mm. The o.d is about 19mm give or take half a mm.
Good old Bunnings to the rescue again. I picked up a meter of 19mm pipe and a meter of 16mm pipe for under $7 combined. This has a wall thickness of about 1.2mm which seems to be the same as the subframe tubing. Yes, it has a light coating of galv on them, but its easily ground and burnt off.
The plan is to cut out the rust holes as i did on the main gusset previously and make a repair patch with the 19mm tube. The 16mm tube will be inserted down the subframe from the ends and welded into position. I will have to cut the subframe in one section so that i can insert a new 16mm tube up and into it.
I also now have in my possession a sheet of 1.6mm plate. This will be used to fabricate the new gussets. Some tube is on the way that can be inserted through the new gussets and tig welded to act as the seat mount points.
(https://u0fpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m-u3LaJ5L9YoQFBwVeBCJbDLTCsEhJkjUvcK-OrtcL_i4F0k8N3Y7dqxTjyykavkgiquuliOL6zQ2a_9c58CDAEaqCbnkTa4MRBpKCcTxZHTOQlgYqU_4v9DLS77ZbQCfbtWlS024WoqRk0FHhXgtgwowopfaMXkGZSivSpGlg8TMkflshs0uCMi242Ohb02VAsUe47cqyYxCP45cICAGsQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
There is a bit of work involved, but as stated before, i dont think Yamaha intended the G to be still going 37 years later. The gussets are a dirt and moisture trap, which will eventually eat out the tubes. So now i can safely say i have inspected, cleaned, repaired and strengthened the gusset areas.
Cheers,
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There were sparks flying everywhere this afternoon.
The rusted sections which were under the gusset were chopped out. New tube inserts were fitted the entire length of both horizontal subframe tubes and then plug welded.
One vertical subframe tube had to be cut and bent out slightly so that a tube insert could be inserted. It was then put back into position and tacked.
(https://wufpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4malahXC0znLYsNmSTlbp1nimixAK1FG-c3Xa6INhXAwF6AW1jkL3qzxveZ6Zcj8Rol_sjuEc44a6QGPkZIChh7A4y4Eyn3Ge29zti-Kv3SGzdXVBCP61z3s9H8TmG6QeNSGs1sH5ZjpOApIaivfaOmz98k2VjpJtdRFjxq9xpYKTpmilCbskPcsEr0QPLXI0abO2k_CS3ptlxbUAnPypy3A?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Next step is to make new fill in sections to replace the rusted sections that were removed. And also fab up some new gussets.
Cheers,
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I drilled two wep holes in all my frames 1.5mm dia at the lowest part of the frame ( rear cradle area )
To let the water out , one of them I dirlled out about a cup of water came out .
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Cheers Mick,
I may add some weep holes to the tubes on this frame. I will inject some rust converter into the holes and slosh it around to treat the inside of the frame.
I had to cut the subframe downtube completely off to do another repair. Cleaned the inside of the subframe tube, treated it with rust converter, fitted an internal stub tube and a piece of outer repair tube and fitted it all back together.
Also started fabrication on the gussets. Used a section of 12.7mm cut length ways and then gently bent into the correct curve for the gusset. Worked out well and much stronger than the original. Just need to plate the gussets, fit the seat and mark the mounting holes, drill them out and fit crush tubes..
Cheers,
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OK, after what seems like ages, we think we have the frame ready to go to the powder coaters.
Lots of work went into cutting out, fabricating, reinforcing and welding up the new tubes and gussets.
Frame has been prepped, and now needs a good sandblast, zinc dipping and a full, rich coat of gloss black.
Pic below of subframe gusset. Both entirely replaced including crush tube, plate and 45* bend (with drain hole). Peg tubes inserted the length of the subframe and all fully tig welded.
(https://v0fpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4meWUSHJ9xfDM0Vsa0gfcwQm4KYHp3HiAOzltymkgDZGODfGTNqyV142NhrvBHTOEYYhPbb1HuSDnyOW4qbH82koYUklZY5ynzG0-9ya81aOd15zKJKlfL8izNehBrUKuWtOZPCAz9ll9vTqefE4ypjrZNswma_NpBzLSdLM5svR1sbdx2EyRrazhKFgXHhbfMwG0k3sSbYBGBDHEPpG5OrA?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
The same with the gusset below. A strong back running internally the length of the frame, rusty sections cut out and entire new gusset fabricated and blended in, with new drain hole.
(https://vkfpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mhOHYWbt_NGz88Tv2_UZ6mhS0usU82wEd-vniVRMct21IN36dsUyR29FlIsCEglf_KCmdi6JY27JqXO4qu0YAVrXUzoIowvwDkfTLASl92-k3YD135Y1CHexUM8y8ArguXSRFi8YU6gLooHWZDA5paGC9zWXuCJOGOQ6jUA-xItBT2oHFfh5MGPgaLjfuD267SPYJSk3VXuiM60Df6oQDqQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
And finally the finished frame ready to get fresh paint after 37 years of neglect....
(https://wefpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4meVvbk9EfMqWGHaBHvX8X8wCqjD3CpmcsHwrJFTIFbtp-mM9cEZWpLzacC1piIb99aB0jYP9ZZ49uvx83XiPKFnnUZ2MqoXOyKczA-JInoNhD1o5_Xq-099saALFbNqLNRbglU1GPmew6fvmyaH3DCdXseagDEpR1u1zgrUA8279SOqaVUcg-YUK55eIHjRwTFSYSf5rin1Mjw6fx37auMw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
This is going up to Southside powder coaters tomorrow, together with the G's pegs, bars and other bits, and an XR75 frame and nickers nackers..
Thanks to my old Pa for helping with this and also all the guys on the forum here for ideas and advice...
More pics soon...
Cheers,
-
Great job , very thorough. It's been good to follow.
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Awesome job Alex. Thanks for sharing mate 8) 8)
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Thanks guys, love doing the rebuilds, but they can be a nightmare sometimes when you run into problems.
Took all the parts up to Southside Powder Coaters in WA this morning. They are going to do the G frame, XR75 frame, handlebars, spring, 2 sets pegs, airbox, brake arms and various other parts shown in the pic below. Thats blast, zinc prime, and gloss black final coat.. $300. Thought that was a bargain.. pick up next Tuesday, so pics then..
Cheers,
(https://tufpmg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4m35VxNugBd9mg0dSbaMGgL10YhRqiukoAI1Ikon-nh3wQHXwlGwTTDB6_cUqUFCYo8wrolguUp9uHs92lNF_SPaOFHbxV6c_RMR9eblWRBnOXHXRROIkmBadc_ltoqIZKdk-c89gyrwiuL1W7baddTgzhBxjdbAP_mFNzwnJZmJ2Q69Y_ObfpCIF80ci6wUkaLk7o8qiME56ZDkNUBoeAuw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
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Finally finished the frame and can post some pics. Came back from powder coaters in almost mint condition. After all the work i had done, they blasted, zinc primed and gloss black powder coated the frame.
There were i couple of minor imperfections which were touched up with 2k gloss... and then it was ready to wipe down, mount on its bike stand and take some pics..
This G now has a decent base to start the rebuild.
(https://vkfisq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mYLvC_Y3TljedXpekx5v-lQgMh_B4ViWH3apllWmOaEKk2aGao3oLCo_BpDijhGTdTNxzQfnhgZD_TA_v8HTRSNKEfHPABE4KpnScegrgM-ReA6SFn4QO01-m6IXWPzc0SWU-EgpMKsYY1y2JdNGR4OHg5Hwm18DCJQRMdJZ76pfFbm7xHnarWH8FD3Ccv-5r-0Z3LmhmrWzVIYY7Pu8hBA?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
(https://tefisq-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4mUGEFCs7udnGmYOCixYq31tdqIO8ugAOaNTfRW4uI0LcMVUqPmK4iBU2rx02T-y4zok9Fw9AjYjbSk2zM_DwR1XX_d5lG9RjtGJb9hiGH1R20P-sWlqzBl4m8E8xbxNVw-dFw_dCK8Z82MyCum9mRW6izQuK0OVdTsDdgnEYy3b5h0NbuUaesav5l6ruhBNqS7nw9yR92Tl6KxUDWxoZfSw?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
(https://vufdhg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y4msQ_6RTi-FK7qlWQI5VpsSZqxrqnMViNj2VGObFPKhDRJPRVnxWELZZEfJxm5XCaic8e42F5cr8JEc8-sJHMCXbDndLvbWnoGcCvoGzNI2b1JXc3URnBxqjYnXHxPNl70Ce4-eUjCXc6dpY_eRONZ8rOsJ_f6r3kUjDKTEskEFnBg2mywFnuV-eF0Wi2Sd64OCpzOHqds1yD3dAkGIvIgQg?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
Its been a while and the project has been on the back burner.
I do have several projects on, but i always like to keep moving forward.
Anyway, Geoff, at GMC has managed to jig up a YZ125G cone pipe and muffler. And its a belter.
Still to be trial fitted and run, it certainly looks the business. Built for top and mid range grunt, without taking too much from the bottom, the cone pipe just looks factory and fast sitting there.
(https://6enyqa.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mY8jlX81RfkJO6GkqXHvPqAp4iBfbN8DTwNZEX6QSu6vPgBEQSiucpwvcSZvrQ3SsdzkS8eSH3o-jQmtB6W6Hcjo1EGXri7mw8fJ05lq8el9Td5inaBTvUQR8NHk5I_ndIMJcv1Ws7RIlFCpkLFcT6fPF8MqdN-hyrqQR5FwhzOmnR-cWDY3AgwdP04tbBbgN4ObfpJInVxz40AiuUwTnVw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
This project is officially back on tracks. Geoff took a lot of time and effort to build this pipe and he is also doing a muffler to suit this application. Gotta take my hat of to that. And its all at a great price and build quality.
More pics coming soon hopefully,
Cheers,
-
YZ125G bike project is officially on track and being rebuilt as a runner.
New spoke kits ordered to rebuild the wheels, as original nipples seized and spokes are loose.
New tank decal kits ordered to add a bit of pizzaz.
New alloy bars orders. (originals are being stored for a future rebuild).
Shock has gone into shop for a rebuild with new bumper and seal head.
New fork gaitors ordered. (originals being saved), and new seals to be fitted.
All bearings are original and will be cleaned, inspected and regreased.
New airfilter to be fitted.
Other parts have already been blasted and powder coated.
All axles, nuts and bolts etc to be buffed.
Bike to be reassembled with new GMC cone pipe and muffler. Jet as necessary.
We hope to have her up and running for Christmas. Stay tuned for updates and pics,
Cheers,
(https://7pnyqa.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mL1H85Y-_V_gq7dDn8aYHAfg1Gn9nyXAL0IH54FH9J4TFVtjdwHOPSYu1Ka-zWUQMKihQZo05AIVOp4qGbKNNFyKONnyRzHT6FsiOy3XipAHRDdKc8b6aycNO3yKnp0KR4jqF2FAPAf05kYsVULp4gtcgy8XG1d7ws_yWO32OQvIwOlcIRghIh62N-R2CjLeB9Re73VqcrV9X8vffGCEJzA?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://8onyqa.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mBmu8HXiL3RaYsXliUiRjr5DRnuZcj_gpI-DXkyUTv3kKfRoPdkHzmv-_Y2XukrmQMzCxYspuownUfna0jdMC5xcrG_eiWxVR6yqdDjZ5_CFp6FLe0F0ojphSGm3Hy7t2p64xT5D4HDjZlL-chV2bN4UmfopM1agVMKIeCzUvoQorSNZYJWY_a__n6ulG8h3MH0dRKiZk9exmfie0ZjWvHg?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://7unyqa.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mt0FT69qRcu1GnzNldVIYWP7mjWYrKwkpzafYB1Y5sqV6U6AHJdZyKCDfo7XsNJwakDm583_t2YJ_3snTVlmymey9YRTOghjzJbSyv5OYQWjmRSbPC0tc4QrbdIUZiMZyKoivvKpQsAqiSgvP7t66kN8_9APsELbVSjKJzbdvVvUp1Kh-91gi19FM1d-2oqJthh2o5pLgRQqe47YZbArv0A?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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Great work Alex... love your builds.
watching with interest.
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The little G project is slowly moving forward.
Geoff of GMC fame has done himself proud and built a cone pipe for the YZ125G.
Fits up beautifully considering how close everything is on the G, as the pipe weaves its way around frame tubes....
He also fabricated a muffler that goes hand in hand with the chamber. Both items are a work of art and look fantastic. I have fitted them up, but am still along way from getting the old girl into shape for her first run.
My shock has been rebuilt, but the rebound adjuster is seized. Considering getting an Ohlins unit custom made from an acquaintance on Facebook that owns an Ohlins service shop in the U.S. Pricey, but man it looks fantastic....
Cheers,
(https://7omivw.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mQqyJPzNHnvKDxQFvIYDqqJJLIi3wVQFCLedEW2JsL3RPrypxrwYn4TvuKPXysNQHQHn7zy89h7KIw2MQ-dMpubMn_v-XVMUkeB4NnWuWKoqjA2VmBHDrj8cnbQJ1mAnPiHEHSPQIk9Hdf6TlHHsf8AJuWHkL0W1nTrrKnGjLiyL32IBlzysXwh53n2aYzIowyQk39M8qa3ETWhxMWUrzEw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://6pmivw.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m5YJ8B_J5-cP9Lx5bq_MnC7aIUKutM1yBK8kIrtMOeO5gy_U7CjmlsfsNENUI33bDoAZD-LIRm47RukOaMb6MPk71MMOWh7L92X0PfE_27GGA9fP3WrZfkB6AAi7SkrFP4VfEEIKxa9LLz7_Pnl0PMyE8P5_0eq4l1e3TQOXPzc4jlbeQDcICXCetVGXg2B0UDAM6kzxPUEddvA6K_gPUog?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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Got the monoshock back today.
Powder coated spring. Everything cleaned and polished. New seal head and bump stop. Serviced with new oil and nitrogen.
Just one problem. The rebound clicker spins, but does not "click". Apparently its common for these to seize internally and there is no easy fix except more dollars. For now i can make do without rebound adjustment as i have my eye on some new old stock shock parts and also an Ohlins.
(https://7eohsg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m32YHjeTycJ5XJYSF1nJrYsSF911LppqYl8AdE8qLy5mWvPPYKUafCk7wMDu-i_35W62CTV3J3ueHF_f_vuE8nmvkT6KVYyfZJEP9kqnXJohiHflkZ5uOpYf9SGEcKSlburXPXZKEGvEYtdy5IzRJFq8dPJNn72dvZ9zjLH_XDVPjfuIbmwn3piytrGkagV5_yoy0MpRUX0yUApuc4hzQ8g?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
Things are ticking along on the G project. I just ordered a white Preston Petty MX front fender to fit to the front. I have decided to go with a factory look for now. So i will be getting some DC translucent sidecovers and cutting in some slots. Also getting a JT/Fox translucent cable saver front plate.
I am going all titanium on the engine bolts.
This week, i am getting all the nuts, bolts, axles and bibs/bobs together for several builds and taking them to the platers to get zinc coated with blue and gold chromate. I'm also sorting out wheel bearings and a few other nickers nackers..
I was in contact with a guy who owned some G's and was also manager for Ohlins USA. He did a bunch of shocks for the G's including Steve from MotoTassinari and Lyle Lovett. Those bikes just ooze style and dollars..
Wont be able to compete with those boys, but i think i will have something special with a GMC cone pipe and a few other goodies..Mine will also be all white......
(https://4pohsg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mugnSzfQEcLWL-WUAYp_gJ4sbpH9-UKp7PdMGc_h82hdTOUiOsn_G_vMwgxtSHh3OYBO9X2AburlAzyQRAR5TyBtYsaEj6uCfgjO8kgg9ckHl7Lnm7aSYrwe86Ucf78C_VwLHCp_QLOMuo7t3gCAbnZQN9LuqLg3qZkPbynb8STPr8fAXEaPC8AYTXnC6qbqYOgRiRSRixZGD8uf2C1MxiQ?width=660&height=371&cropmode=none)
(https://7ops1q.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mFuuxEacBbDcVSeOn9rP8ZYy94PbEDFR07YCj5B4MnBuY2tAdYA1iVNV-ZKwwIVuKgUCtcRpoBOQCSvTXlUO1Vll3FzC0GCMrvhJRANeZTTNAqofzKWgN5Y1e4Zx5FRxvvyN_dN-UmKvPqNBv3wcu2lCtbyeTHnJ0y_IzF4rhwJQ2a9kzHbmcVV_BIVlikuMMM1YoHMxfPvjpWK8tV7YSwA?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
-
Been a few year since i had mine new--well jeez damn near 40 year [is that right--or back to school] Anyway, shock adjuster spinning. Could be two things but if its been serviced i doubt its either but the alloy/titanium rod corrodes & sticks in which case you'll be able to winf the adjuster away & back to it but no more. Or--if it's been adjusted right down to full damping & clicked one click too far [tight click] it'll stick the metering needle into its seat at the base of the shaft. Had a bit of luck just shocking it by upending the shock & driving it into something like a lead block. Actually i used a solid alloy block on the concrete floor & got away with one then next one was stubborn & egg shaped the end bushed bit [bugger] but it popped the needle back. Those ones were purely over tightened not corroded rod. Other unlikely possibility is the cross pin under the rubber caps of the adjuster is missing. Now 'if' the adjuster's been bottomed out tight then backed of with the pin seated then the damping will be so hard you'll wonder what the hell!!, push it down & it'll pretty much stay there or creep back plus hard to push down by hand on the bike--big jump would do it as flexes the damper washers. So [essay sorry] if it's corroded & stuck in the position for damping its been in forever then maybe best left alone--pull pants up & carry on. While i'm at it & think i've mentioned it once way back--the floating rear brake plate--make sure its free or it'll stop the suspension. moving [extreme case--but]. I found that out on mine as i'm a bugger for overtightening axles & eventually after many times the brake plate sleeve got swollen by enough to stop suspension returning. Panic during a meet fixing a puncture & bugger me what's going on, back nut of 1/4 turn was enough but had to dress the spacer &/or ream the brake plate steel insert. Also [but not in this case] the sleeve dents the end cap washer thingy & take up end float & 'could' or would have a similar effect. Had mine on Alky [methanol--shell racing special] with by memory Castrol MSSR oil mix. Certainly turned on too. Ran that in my 125F before it too. Where was i--forgotten the question lol. Love ya resto. I haven't got the patience i'm afraid, but admire them that do 'have'.
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Thanks OverTheHill.
I gave the shock to a shop, that sent it to a shock rebuilder. They said something was seized in there and it was going to cost another $250 to cut something, and re-weld again. Not sure what it was, but i didn't want to throw more money into a tired old shock.
Its all coming along slowly... ordering a few bits here and there and taking all hardware to get zinc plated next week. At the moment i am having a punch up with the front axle, which has the spacer seized onto it. Its going to get a little heated around here....
Cheers,
-
Been fighting the G all week.
After sending GMC some pics of the pipe fitted up, we thought it was best to send it back to do a small modification on the mount. Should be perfect after that.
My allen bolts were just about welded in the bottom of the fork legs. I tried everything. They are 10mm. The head is about 13-14mm. Anyway, i used a 10.5mm drill bit so i drilled down into the bolt until i could see the copper washer behind the head. Then it all just fell away and i could separate the legs and remove what was left of the bolt from the inner leg and outer leg.
All hardware is in a vinegar wash getting the zinc removed ready for the zinc platers.
I have a big list of bits on order from Partzilla including a fresh white Maier rear guard and fork bolts, swingarm bearing kit, etc.
Koyo bearings are on order the the wheel bearings.
From DC i have some transparent side covers and front JT replica plate coming.
A Preston Petty white front guard should be here tomorrow...
Have also ordered a full kit of titanium bolts just for the outer engine covers.
Ive got some wider SS footpegs for a CRF70 on order. These have the same 8mm pins and mounting dimensions as the G. They were only $25 on Ebay. If they fit, i may go with the IMS Pro ones which are a lot more expensive but would be better quality.
A couple more pics below of some G's that are giving me inspiration as to the direction mine is heading. Will strip the engine and inspect soon. Its a low hours bike still on original piston etc. It started and run super crisp when i got her, so i am reluctant to mess with it too much.
Cheers,
(https://6pps1q.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mFheN9Rl5FBgZg3eLvAzKvylqLyGVbT2kWA23wY3Pq7pdRI5wVN2f9IbwIsu9iTow6QVxMOFjyyJhrC6J7nYDgAYvcCbuPbCxmy9hHpCOzqfMA7t628UIqWKoZSjuaKNO7cIZa-T_9zJ_JOPogIUVqkXzk3njvDobb8Mx4Fmg6Txp6o8--LtXQDIXGic9T3Nvynm5eJL3MRU5MvszsJmwTg?width=550&height=413&cropmode=none)
(https://6ups1q.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mWiqD5xqmO6tEgkNv9cdWjRpy0v64JSA7CC4L38oJ2FjFyzOGHehVgMcOVMytZopi9sGzYfL5TZxPUv3pqrS7H5d_Vuv2_Vp7TsMIUbpp0CalplqdcHF_-lhczkwMzi9sPbt-GU7NA5QDYF_oxSI7BMpsl0d7vqoJ7kn6ICz76Go8vsnP1XOLz8PAFlRZ98UK7MpOBUw5tRPm9rSNaMYMgg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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what's your plans for it....garage or Racer ?
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Not sure yet Hoony. I have two K's for riding vmx meetings. I was just hoping to perhaps take her to a ride park and cut a few laps. It will eventually end up on display if i think it comes together nicely.
Probably rebuild.. ride.. rebuild display..
Cheers,
-
The G project is taking a turn.
I have decided to make two G's. Using the older parts from one, to build the other.
The original G will be a show bike.
I have sourced a company to make me a works style alloy tank, and another member on this forum to had paint it in the factory speedblock colours.
I have hopefully sourced a guy in the states to build me an Ohlins shock
I have some 490 43mm forks being delivered which will be Titanium Nitride coated.
I have another airbox thats getting a carbon fibre look treatment.
I have a Preston Petty front fender and genuine Swedish Gunnar Gasser throttle and cable from the US.
Geoff has built me a ripper cone pipe and muffler setup.
I have a DLS dual front brake that i am reconditioning.
I am picking up an H swingarm that will have gussets welded in as per the OW125 works bike.
Rims and hubs to be powdercoated black with new spokes and gold nipples.
DC has sent some transparent side covers and a JT cable saver front plate. Sidecovers will be slotted.
I have a bunch of NOS parts such as sprockets, hardware, etc..
This frees me up to build another G that will be a rider. I have some H 38mm forks to go on it. A rebuilt shock, lots of plastics etc.. but need an engine, frame and some knick knacks.
Hope someone can help out with parts..
Cheers,
Alex
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DLS front brake delivered. This will restore nicely. These brakes were a big improvement over stock and were a great upgrade. They are pricey these days and are well sort after..
(https://6pnryq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mZTITEtYlFhG41TdL3Y7tjTNAEXEEQaiYl_Mr4cCUgl4VCu02wHxjYCFq4tNja-hAX8WUk9z3AOg-dl8VP3YuvKQF92Fq9nk34MGzAPytWm_oQGknluWKs_N19oAXnM0uNJjdgpFVZeN8M_7MMTPzcZhmvkhIID3X_jfKPkvaKWFIp0fpD5ZGZ4gKzZl2NSSCYRDsb6B1GCo29YCgPikWug?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
These front forks from a 1982 YZ490 are being delivered. They were a big upgrade back in the day as they are 43mm compared to the wimpy 36mm original flexy forks. They will be stripped and rebuilt, as well as having a ti-ni coating added....
(https://6unryq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mlJ7CGnY3gyX8DBUQS7GMfz_upMe3L7WtRuW6lxwXNX6tLNxOA9T3BGI81BeHqtFAy10QAzBEv4rsO28JoTaADfz8kLuzH1RHpXafbVQiHMtgJerTSd1-mCgDyRlxnPh_gbDMlBtl9ORSIsZ6gv5kzcDhU78zXF753-aaY40y9eI1g4amJ9ZLK1ijeOZBD54tGUjKGNu2q-V9_PlMxKiGoA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
The Gunnar Gasser whirlpool throttle was an upgrade back in the day. Yamaha decided to make one that had the cable coming directly out of the housing. These ones came out at 90*. Ebay sells a lot of fake one. These originals can be picked up from Speed and Sport in the US with various options on custom cables.
(https://4pps1q.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mFlbIgrLAzJppg_yLPBae32lt-4bny8_Vi2AHhyc9BRU8CRXYiEGwrIBcTHegqEeJdM2vrDasNffYppseS9VNCOFEEpnx0Jp-vyQZiYsP1eRbNm25Bc6nK_A1X0y8BSRncoLs1TVZVZGbjC9bDMaOGlm1oWYheB6_kGOxmmhMg19XsL4gIJaEioqVssruoDRcWDq0lzSvTUn1LEJG-yiR5Q?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
Preston Petty makes a nice front guard for vintage bikes. The white one goes well on the G...
(https://7onryq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m-gnmchxa-14CdjvJgUoAoxfIvzq88Xo8sKxLlWJ-E6Mp634v1gCl1qUiO1p6CnjmzZ7DaKgXU87fNU5TchjhQzKASJ69Y1IdDcOvcnaMlUWwwYCTLZ8NZ25IMNv8pEq07W0mT-puAF7qMcbFzVGM0DLA5iHfqonpkGJ7B5AtbuWVJvJSNgzW_WKbH34u-BEggBcig7IztdQM6YQLcJDypQ?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none)
Broc Glovers factory OW125 in 1980. It was watercooled like the next years H version bikes.. I will be fitting an H swingarm and adding the extra swingarm brace..
(https://7eps1q.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mGJDozxYB8-DjmZGMGWRNpDiNWvSbsahG7Ec1H5semJlg7Whzqj-fdSVcdWjMuA864NcoO8oQJRBA98anjwQDnUbqazx4sj8GMNrWRI_xZkomYxTKXtF_Q6j3LaXTUQOitm3iyTEFmpBQwym7cLoZDML441AobHGZRz-aJCJkxtzdUQWdt0PDH6ShDzHOpMyRVrKwgRXj0eSKBQqsQSN7cg?width=660&height=440&cropmode=none)
I will also be getting an alloy tank custom made and painted (in white) like the tank above..
Cheers,
-
Been a while since i posted on the ozvmx.com site. There is a YZ125G Facebook page that i have been using lately for tips, idea's etc.
Anyway, things have been moving along nicely and i finally, just about, have two G's in pieces. Still need a few final parts of the puzzle, but i know exactly what i need, cost and how/where to get them.
OK, the G's are being divided into two categories. One is a rider, and the other is a show bike. Some parts that will be on the rider, will be on the show bike. We are not building a race bike, but rather a stock, reliable G with a few upgrades.
The show bike will be nothing like original and will use a combination of some nice parts you could get back in the day, in conjunction with modern parts..
So lets get started with the show bike.....
I heard performance was not improved with a DG radial head. But the cool factor is there from the day, so this bike had to have one. Located a DG gold radial head for the G in Canada that the owner was willing to part with.
(https://8nfwha.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mETpHeF2VkvQ55R4PttqbSpoGElHtNAmEQsHqpBmiZd2z_sfVQNdjxm3WSaUu-97yJxGElsVsDjqsT1RkVnYq9RcnTLzuVB-omyNhXu_5RJyZHbLw4xNyp6GQUFbeZwUHyBVdxo0gCOTm_Y6YLN14VJxWWS_GJhAfhyGNKjRSQU8Oy8HdDRcJOnvFP2XrTAfiZdegxxG8mAMCjnlijXx1JQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
MotoTassinari makes a VForce reed block that fits the G. Its usually for a Husky 125 but reported to fit and improve performance on the G. Pic below of the VForce reed block for the 1980 G, plus the DG head, and a some very rare parts in the form of a crank and 3R3 clutch. The clutches on these old girls are all cheese, so pic after this shows the solution.
(https://pnhcuw.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mtq_QyzomsV6A-UgchGC1HMhh6p2WVwTMhfuN4I3WIoNP2ri2bfu-sJSKgR3PY67jBHs1Cb4oq7tZm5D7ODGQdvAJFEAItZ8cTTvf6seaelnjRIo_EdMb7lR-pldRhKR0XF9DFYVd_oZREycJt8sQygrAx_4h12j_J-zc_S3TdyvanWnYHYMqiS7_JcFAK96ZfkoHKRhQwozbOiiZRmhO5Q?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Robert Fish in the U.S makes billet clutch kits for the G. Direct fit with instructions and all parts to make it work.
(https://qxfijg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mL_AX-Jxgu1ZAzUdsq4UYPVnMuyieox5iQOL9thc0MmNoKcHqDkYFiuA5hd-G8g-8CM2fIHeqbBsG_4-54HZz_Vt7lzTA-RTmYSYgnlXykpQjB9cAo_cQT4JSNo2bo3vGkZQY5wCHjBpZcb0QFGEMWHKzR2vu0HgB0RAGmX-tCAxL9DV189SZTcdmBTCw0DD0vumdYUe-7A7muaoP3OiIPA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
The suspension is taken care of via 43mm YZ465 forks that went to the UK for Ti-Ni treatment. The rear shock is a new Ohlins unit sourced directly from Sweden by Russel Speak at Dynotime in Perth.. Pic below of tubes together with a nos stock size piston kit for the rider, and part of a full titanium bolt kit for the show bike..
(https://h83uba.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mhF6AooAdv2_6KZmPxFlmOZBrZvsZsh5Tg-JRCIi4azpzQRvOCa4z8uMXOWPXY3Tfe2gcRb_ok9sKFKM7mNSkW31KIKEd6ZdEBGO4BKyv9kCO_FU_J4HImVsNDc6R4dDPtnZpOawYvCDHWY-L8jkHb3OtoyLNsHsvsn6ZO1y8ZCdbuDz76YtqTHCyrM62THJPjdBBUYZQJqFrmIgrQtm2QA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://i82lyg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mBre3I0O9fTDnsoQMdOE-iqsUKO_poVQBEnvfQtHH9UXwtj0tGh3wsBSgIVFRyQ-JPEav_ceYooZyOqFsj7Vigtgpjcux67pwNHqE_Naownq8COBaFgG5MutowotJeYBozVYx6i9d1xZhSo3pwaA-RjZp-fwllvbv4c-lCVj0xzLIkILLFobrmh5GrVmsxTIwm8ktA878OpUdfGuYwaBqOg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
A bunch of parts have been modified, sourced and trialed on the G. I found that Pivot Pegz make a direct fit Yamaha peg for the G model bikes. No pin or spring mods.. just bolt straight on. They are a beaut Ozzie made peg. HotfootMoto makes intakes.. look great quality.. A mob in Queensland does hydro dipping and my airbox came back with a trick carbon fibre look. Red64 makes titanium sprocket covers, DC makes chain guides, and EBC for the clutch plates going in the billet basket.
(https://jc05ka.bn.files.1drv.com/y4movBUa4f6hEnEMMFy4FF0u6ngg79fyNmpi96X40V0stQ-AL0o6oHLqlIHzj44ULRApFEr8HXlLPDUwhoSzqt9DP3gnVsQs5Eb9lVJePthtMFNcLh7MkzMC07Ev-evAw7x8HyjtHAtfaP511VHysFPqCZGMf3IREUsuBNhrFQAjXn7E0As08WKIOVttCZNf0eAEUuqZ-T1r9ZWFwi-0glHGg?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Local fabricator Trevor at TJO welded in some nice gussets on the upraded H swingarm..
(https://ic1veq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m_0-A8bUkz_jPSCLL-kJnd_6FEIb0F99oi2fbosQGe5xvMP4CCA-moCkDSDVpc4lMIJRYwpjXlhj3_QSsFVK0AH05plV8dRAHJ-NRtDIco909QQH9a_gEGV5vnfHgzfXT7-EPNu26HiQQrsLNxw6TicORORngh2iDOeEpu2bqKLjiZiPHDdysNtLzPER1C8yErnu51P-eEW1RSvTljT46KA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
And, finally for now, Brendon at BF Customs in Albany WA is in the middle of fabricating a works style alloy tank for the G. Its coming along nicely... the tunnel, brackets and a few other bits have to be finished off...
(https://qnhjag.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mOq_Y0uW1smLtBl1t-mP8eq3uBg8ns3-aJDmSUY1tFfCGjXzpW9xyuiO4xV5DGCOlIOvbfRmJrDJckFM2SwX6GgcnoUHlJQoBGvB00C3cwBfPUKcvr2e06oPCjJPz1nNcrCCkjYwA5NyTQUZOei5db6p4qXyx2zYbSenxdvUQfv0QrplE98FXqnOWyyhY2aFmsGPZrz_12e8krUMJbh0JUg?width=640&height=480&cropmode=none)
There is a heap more to these builds, but i will leave it there for now. Its all systems go, but will still take a long time.....
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Always love your work Alex. Well done mate 8) 8)
Some good tips there. That clutch basket find is a definite winner. As you say they are made of cheddar cheese and VERY hard to find in decent condition these days.
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good to see you are still dropping in here, i find facebook full of "Ive got one of those"(we are all guilty) and its hard to find good details wheras the older forums while clunky still seem a good source of hard info. the bikes are coming along nicely!
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Thanks guys.. yep, i am guilty of "ive got one of those".. but been working hard to get some of those. Myself and Geoff at GMC worked together to create a fantastic cone pipe for the 125G. Fits perfect, looks fantastic and is a work of art.
Its some of the little things i like tinkering and experimenting with. Took me a while to find some decent pegs for the G. You can use the Stainless Steel PW50 pegs found on Ebay. I have a set and they are super good quality and others have run them for years. Do not buy the cheaper cast ones.. absolute junk and a death wish. However, supporting Aussie companies is a good thing and the Pivot Pegs are a great product and fit straight on and perfect option for VMX racers with stiff and worn ankles.
I also come up with a plan to swap the 1980 steel brake arm for the 1983 alloy brake arm. Just a bit of mild chamfering of the perch bracket and a few other small mods and it fits perfect.
(https://leb9vg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mAUpvDrP699YSuAV4VFf1NBty5yBywoHhbd2MZMQJlLQIZh1yRCaKW3phULa7UiyidmK1gSpfxw37GWu93_jIZQcjP8LVH9seIfsLp9bB_A1uVwt4XvKAb4TPlhI0h-CXob9d0bi9CxYrWRPXakHcfkMwRraMnReLJ0Gv9rieqp95x9dG90pVrE2PSg1ryHeiexmDt3ZIgrS_D2nDxqoGMQ?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Another area i have been playing around with is the shifter. Not much out there, but for the G, the CRF50 shifter fits. Now these come in all sorts of aftermarket brands and sizes. BBR makes a 1" longer shifter that fits and is perfect with the bigger pegs. Gives you a bit more room to get the big gumboots around. They also look great in the titanium colour and have a flexible tip.
(https://jc2lyg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mXJW6EjH2WdZkhcCj2E4FlRDu5aLgrpJJxVDp8jTOLmJSDCOkFvqbZmRvtT_hAT1L2L7VtPvHNbdslZ6Q2GSjfr9gyKEAkjGtIBcvrn5ub-pRqoPZDejAnmb7l3H7Xh9jDuqFBlGmd4jQtauVydQRMYjooVyTJ2QwiRlvZiH1DloupR0Rwx_SF3orjVM3mHtzdNjYoe8Q813yOg3ABTUAXA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Before i tackle these projects in earnest, the workshop needed a serious refurb. Not finished yet, but getting there. Each station i can sand blast, weld buff, sand, paint, rebuild, etc..
(https://im05ka.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mGQqztakjYoVpGNJUnPHTnyUsitMVOCmgYXBdUivWLfve8xuLMLRce8IUchbyx2jJeQ9AY-BBNY5zVpa03vnuAqVWkd52sVDoiEnJ0J_Q1KjjRfCzYsFB0MxPQXBymDWgH4nPwg1qizmAziVmD1E5ZjeehXXHdzkYwrmbyOyvTq7eDoni0jRxHL2wn9K3ttDBBhkNVsEXQORA2BChrhA7zw?width=660&height=250&cropmode=none)
On a side note.. i found a few more pics of me at 16 on the G. It was basically Wide Open Throttle until either i broke or the bike wore out ha ha....
(https://meylgg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4msokg_pCKe_CxIMYbfeM1wKkCJN1ZYWsWUy1YvDBeEriav2-avRApnW8ZiNg60JDjHnsxJhdg6AXQ9optJb5mLA-kDXqRuNMMo-1Sack6jl4xernZkPmb-WIkM5Wvs_fnQCay7_K5Jf6RljbTX49WSPobCBYZKkgBz_gAAvFUXNdOATl5K6coLHdftprs_Zkbz4HGajGvdPx8hlaNObb4EQ?width=659&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://moylgg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4miRFUbEiM_SbWcIrFYDaRvliR8OCS0dceR46UQTcLa4oMG7CVjkn1Y2t0Iumv8OEbOoYpEKvojxIG4u8ofWyaN2Tck_LuWPmmI7MP9pvysYHicgpuxDg0tAeTCvvTKEK-PBZ0rp_eMAnBjJdIC_HgwpW5K6ySVkQbkE6hyw_9VKRyPPNX0fx9SKLUGtsrEEhAcUnC0qs2Z90Xo68OenA0Xg?width=529&height=660&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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The build/s look great, well done.
Question you on one thing though
They were a big upgrade back in the day as they are 43mm compared to the wimpy 36mm original flexy forks.
Both my YZ125G's have 38mm forks & they all look original?
So I looked up the seals & it seems you are right & I am losing my mind. 36mm
So now I'm going down the shed to check, again
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Are the 2 brake arms the same length? I assume you mean the torque arm that attaches the brakeplate to the frame
On my 465 I fitted a later model alloy arm which had to be shortened, I cut the bearing end off & made a new 1 that took a standard GE12 bearing that was 0.5mm smaller on the outside than the special platinum plated gold bearing Yamaha fitted, means if the new owner ever needs to replace the bearing he can buy it at any bearing retailer
Looking forward to seeing how the bikes progress
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Tony, the H swingarm i am using was supposed to be an upgrade over the G. It is 1" longer. I got the torque arm with the swingarm so i could measure it. After some research, i bought a 1984 CR125 torque arm. Fits perfectly and is the same length as the H arm but looks much better in slotted alloy.
I also got Jimmy Button bend Renthal titanium colour bars. These have a slight vintage rise and bend, but not the crazy big bars from back then.
Neale, the G came with 36mm forks, but an upgrade these days is to put the 125H 38mm forks on. I have a set of H forks to put on the rider bike, as i think that is the best size/weight combo. The show bike gets the 43mm Ti-Ni forks.
(https://phfijg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mncmCd0x2iC_rlE3DQ40jeEKBFMCvMNSuNQuBZdin96k_lWjdzxAGHmoEINo2RHd5X6BlZXh57ORFZCaGsEHzad1i2tPRm7eEmOeP1zoqFt2784_euI5dRy74q95LdE_TFso0IHHnETMMI88DuAgSYyKq4W5Em9xCXb2lvl5LWuYoRDgN2x59WyuFME8Tljqz5vIFmIvgx0OrWWrAzWyrvA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Cheers,
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Jimmy Button bars seem to be a popular bend on vintage bikes, ran them on my 465 & still have them on my CZ
Are the bearings for the Honda torque arm still available? Yamaha were really good at using special bearings, normally 0.5mm larger on external diameter
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The alloy works style tank for the G is finally finished. Thanks to Brendon at BF Customs in WA for taking on the task. I think he forgot how long it takes to build up a tank from scratch. Final product is amazing and will look great on the show bike..
(https://9sqcsg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mwS2CrdPPej5Nzpcv5WIQCF5MiPRzhCNqKzyOcq4btF1q8FgMTHYWzOxqV_IGEY4tJaWkgFJmT_CpIWGPU8eYccD1yW-XfE4jrEdTd-BmxfLpdXGr9KWaE_VtHB5FD7gZGtLx6Nwy3bxBgrqW71H2Usg6DgXf9waeZzd2O9fxbhHedtHHz_xuCMNgBGyJZmfCLAPUb9Dw7eCoFHPJKdLjXQ?width=480&height=640&cropmode=none)
(https://6iqcsg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m0OJPQpjzkQuGuTqqBtQp5wCanPSN_gSjlLlAgFMCO2Tjpq7BMobvnPA6EI2RpRs-4mzbZ7cwfevWd2D04uZr_BWwtF_4ck81HQuJ5WdgekkROXXp91VS5oKGTm-VrKiPVERpRgRWPif9raEKQ1n3IGNSogh3tn_v21K0iXEaJHSIcpvCNnMEqUPN_ikjIzoa-izFX7S8xabGFmAhI1FfeA?width=640&height=480&cropmode=none)
(https://8iqcsg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m-RUl4uLBZTLwJZcQMMsSR3nMbgB_Z4tnG82caWYh2yi_OBdv-fW2QwPNIFtdYxlWbwyOrWB8wu3ItPeVlqw5TqHkzwi2iyT5U95_AXn9v6NVfTESaWcLemQsVKf6VS_Pyr4oiHlk9HwafbRwChEPc5iJX15Tcy4BFE9KRi5BZ1REhXX9tLBVdpv82Y35wBqTx4WVAVKTC-4rLPzzK7sMbQ?width=480&height=640&cropmode=none)
Cheers,