OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: pecrazy on November 20, 2016, 08:54:08 am
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Assembling this IT200, picked up the kick starter shaft and saw this, must have been stripped for awhile but as I never really rode the bike I can't say for sure. Has a spline on both parts and is just a stopped to stop the lever when it comes back up to it's normal position. It is internal in the case halves so if it fails it is a full strip to fix it.(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah196/plymoth1/IMG_2178_zpsio2o60pf.jpg) (http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/plymoth1/media/IMG_2178_zpsio2o60pf.jpg.html)(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah196/plymoth1/IMG_2179_zpsylnllq3s.jpg) (http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/plymoth1/media/IMG_2179_zpsylnllq3s.jpg.html)
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If the splines still hold I would be tempted to silver solder it.
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If the splines still hold I would be tempted to silver solder it.
yep and or tig
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Use a tig. Less heat spread. Don't be temped to weld all way around. And that only if the spline holds the stop plate.
Peter B
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Splines are gone, far too much heat to tig or braze it, thinking solder is the way to go, only if it fails it is a full case strip to fix.
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go back to square 1...fix it properly now
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Solder is too soft and not strong enough.You would need a lot of heat to solder it. TIG.
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those splines on the shaft look like they have copped a few kickbacks in its life and torn a lot of the splines, the best solution is replace it with a new part and save the head fork of having to do the job twice. have a look at where the stopper has been hitting on kick back mode, there could be some damage there as well
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2 Options best and cheapest is to laser weld with a 312 stainless filler wire,next is to tig it with 312 stainless filler wire
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-KICKSTART-SHAFT-82-85-YZ125-1984-1986-IT200-KICK-AXLE-39W-15660-00-00-/272350789130?hash=item3f695f3e0a:g:1XQAAOSw9NdXvJEB&vxp=mtr
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of course you could buy a new one! but that would take all the fun out of it
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Tig 360 degrees and relieve the case with a chamfer. That shaft wont fail from heat or a weld line crack.
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Whilst Im first to get the TIG out , I go with silver solder on this repair. You need capillarity attraction to get in there.
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Whilst Im first to get the TIG out , I go with silver solder on this repair. You need capillarity attraction to get in there.
agreed
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Shaft is hollow and quite thin in that area. I have heard they had a habit of braking, so guessing any heat at all is going to weaken it. If it wasn't internal and a complete case split I would try it but for $116 for peace of mind it's worth it.
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Laser weld? Cheap?
I don't think so Tim
The only laser welders I know of are all CNC controlled and take ages to set up, they're not for one offs
I may be out of touch but I haven't heard of any hand held laser cutting or welding torchs as they require sending the beam via mirrors.
If the splines are stripped then I wouldn't bother welding it, welds don't like situations like this when there is torsional stress and the hit home on the return won't do it any favours either, this is why Yamaha designed it with the splines to take the load.
If the splines still hold then a weld would be fine to stop the part moving sideways on the shaft
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not sure if anyone has mentioned it but the 'very' important thing is to set it on the right spline or your return spring tension will be up the creek. Might get away one spline either way--but!!. On my 490 of which they have a habit of breaking those stops [i think] because they're made of cast crap compared to old model Yam's that appear stamped out material--so--long story long--i found earlier type stops in my junk on old AG175 type shafts. Put in the lathe & machined the swaged over bit then removed it & fitted the 490 perfect [same quick spline] then bronzed it on. was on tight on the quick spline but bronzed to keep it there. The spline is cut in the direction so it bites tighter on the return against the stop rather than trying to get off when it bumps to a stop. Anyway all that's irrelevant if ya spline is poked except a good [Agy type] stop might bite on whats left on the shaft. On second thoughts looking back at ya pic, there aint much left of the spline. We used to have a great guy at mig welding who would make a beautiful job of fitting that back on--then he retired bugger it. I've got an IT200 too so maybe i should be worried lol.
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Laser weld? Cheap?
I don't think so Tim
The only laser welders I know of are all CNC controlled and take ages to set up, they're not for one offs
I may be out of touch but I haven't heard of any hand held laser cutting or welding torchs as they require sending the beam via mirrors.
Laser welders are portable and hand controlled jewellers use them all the time. Most laser welding shops just charge an hourly rate and they can do LOTS of work in an hour.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25pDxYrMFA0
hand held torch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbiXeAORkeQ
2min per end cap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuTIR5E98Dw
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Best way to fix this is a new one, if it was no longer available I would consider soldering it. Overthehill you are correct, I have already set it up and marked it where I thought the right amount of spring tension was.
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I have Mig welded one of these about 3 years ago , and it is still working today.
I would have preferred to fit a new one or Tig weld it but I was desperate to get it fixed and ride the bike
{ we have all been guilty of some nasty repairs when desperate to ride, I imagine }
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we have all been guilty of some nasty repairs when desperate to ride, I imagine }
OOOOOHHHH YYYEEEAAAHHH :o
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Shaft is hollow and quite thin in that area. I have heard they had a habit of braking, so guessing any heat at all is going to weaken it. If it wasn't internal and a complete case split I would try it but for $116 for peace of mind it's worth it.
Everytime you jump in a rear wheel drive car the 360 degree welded tailshaft yokes are also quite thin but work reliably.
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Best way to fix this is a new one, if it was no longer available I would consider soldering it. Overthehill you are correct, I have already set it up and marked it where I thought the right amount of spring tension was.
If its internal YES just replace! so why are we even talking about fixing it? well at least its covered the procedure for external parts repair in an emergency situation, so all good