OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Bike Talk => Topic started by: Curtis on October 05, 2016, 06:15:21 pm
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Want to cover some potentially porous spots on some old floats. (no longer available).
Can anyone suggest what to use? Was thinking of a 2 part resin? Suggestions?
Thanks :)
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Hmm. added weight could prove to be an issue.
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Brass? Plastic? Brass-solder, Plastic- if you have a hole you can use soldering iron to melt the plastic to close it. not sure what king of glue is fuel resistant long term. Superglue may work. Experiment a little :) Added weight will be negligible unless you have a big lump of solder hanging from your float :D You can use precision scale to check diference in weight before and after repair.
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set your float level by the fuel level and reset the floats after soldering (if they are brass) to the old fuel level
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soldering floats is a VERY difficult job
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Especially if they are plastic.
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solder can get into the float through the hole you're covering too if you're unlucky, rattling around & adding weight. My [bung] 36 Bing arrived minus one float [plastic or something, not brass] never been a problem for about 40 years lol.
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They are plastic, its pretty thin in one spot...id probably put a hole in it with a solder iron nowing my luck..ha
I might try the epoxy.
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You can buy a two part kit at the auto stores that has a powder that you sprinkle on then a liquid that makes it bond/go off
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thinking outside the square could a 3d printer copy them.
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Especially if they are plastic.
That would be easier than brass, as when heated the air inside the brass tries to expand the halves or blow out the solderthinking outside the square could a 3d printer copy them.
great idea
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Especially if they are plastic.
That would be easier than brass, as when heated the air inside the brass tries to expand the halves or blow out the solderthinking outside the square could a 3d printer copy them.
great idea
Wet sponge or rag on the opposite side of the float, PCB solder 63/37 Sn Pb, which has the lowest melting temp of all solders, and it's a piece of cake - done plenty.
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Especially if they are plastic.
That would be easier than brass, as when heated the air inside the brass tries to expand the halves or blow out the solderthinking outside the square could a 3d printer copy them.
great idea
Wet sponge or rag on the opposite side of the float, PCB solder 63/37 Sn Pb, which has the lowest melting temp of all solders, and it's a piece of cake - done plenty.
I'll try that next time ;)
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I'm not sure how it would hold up submerged in fuel but I've effected some good repairs with Araldite and Al foil. Including a Toyota fuel tank long term.
I smear a little epoxy over the hole and smooth down a small patch of foil. Squeeze/rub it flat.
Cut the next patch a little larger and repeat.
Repeat as required.
Aluminium epoxy sandwich repair.
If you can isolate the offending area, and maybe get suitable epoxy (fuel grade) it could be a solution.
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JB weld is fuel proof. The KLR650 has a CV carb with holes in the slide as a restrictor. i filled mine with JB weld and it now goes like a 650 should.