OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Mick D on February 17, 2016, 03:16:11 pm
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Just changing a set tyres on a KDX200
and I just spotted it has three holes in rear rim? on a 200cc I assume for a second rim-lock?
The stuff I bought are those cheap plastic MCS rim locks and heavy thick pirrelli tubes, hoping to run a little less air for climbing muddy hills?.
Procrastinating whether to go back and get a second rim-lock? Should I?
Might wrestle with the front one first while I procrastinate for a while longer :-\
Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated thanks.
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I just stripped the front tyre off and discovered it doesn't even have a rim lock at all :o
No procrastination on that one, its getting one, right now.
Humm, what should I do with the rear?
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I would run two , less chance of the tire moving and you are running less air .
and I allways leave the valve stem loose no nut holding it down to the rim .
Gives the tube room to move a bit , other wise it can rip the stem from the tube if the tire moves a bit.
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Mick,
I always file(chamfer) the inside of the rim at the valve hole so the valve stem can lay over easily if the tyre decides to spin.I run the valve stem nut as a lock nut for the cap.
I use a metal valve removing type cap on the front and a normal metal cap on the rear.Always two rim locks on the rear and sometimes it still moves.
Too much power eh.lol.
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I would run two , less chance of the tire moving and you are running less air .
and I allways leave the valve stem loose no nut holding it down to the rim .
Gives the tube room to move a bit , other wise it can rip the stem from the tube if the tire moves a bit.
I guess I just wanted someone to tell me "Nah you don't have to go back to the bike shop mate,,,again" ::) ::) ::)
But I did, and made it just before doors shut, thanks :)
It only had one in it, but then I realised there was a third hole that had what looks like an original factory rubber plug in it?
Option for an upgrade, I guess ;D ;D
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Mick,
I always file(chamfer) the inside of the rim at the valve hole so the valve stem can lay over easily if the tyre decides to spin.I run the valve stem nut as a lock nut for the cap.
I use a metal valve removing type cap on the front and a normal metal cap on the rear.Always two rim locks on the rear and sometimes it still moves.
Too much power eh.lol.
I love the idea about the metal cap with the lock nut up underneath it. I will get some 8)
I just finished the front. Cleaned inside of rim etc. Sprayed Lanotech on the inside of nipples to stop rust and moisture entering the threads from the inside, it says "does not effect rubber" on the can. You can be sure I will report back if it does :D
But as it pumped up, I thought that stems to tight to tell if it shifts, should have drilt it up a bit. But Not going to take it back off now ::)
That's what I will do that to the rear but. And chamfer/taper the hole like you suggest. Good one thanks.
And the rear should be even easier if I duck around the corner and get some beer first.
Cheers :)
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I run one in the rear of both CR500 & RMZ450; no problems yet. In a 200 I would think that one would easily handle it?
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only ever ran 1 myself, too much drama if the tyre needs changing on the trail. also I ditch the rim tape and run two to three turns of duct tape around the centre spoke channel on the rim. I try to set the valve at a slight angle away from the creep zone in case it moves but only has once on the 300 on the front after a protracted front wheelie session on a rock outcrop.
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I run a +1000cc pre75 sidecar, four rim locks on the rear tyre (plus some self tappers through the rim as a fail-safe) has proven sufficient. ;)
Bloody pig to change the 4.50/5.00 tyre... and rear wheel set weighs as much as an early CR125......... ::)
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Run none on a KDX. It won't last long enough to move the tyre. IT, on the other hand... ;D
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I only ever run 1 rim lock on both front and back. As others have said, 2 rim locks are a pain in the proverbial if you get a flat on a trail ride. Actually, it's even a hassle in the shed! Touch wood, I've never had a tyre move enough to rip out the valve. I have had tyres spin a little after a good days ride occasionally, then it's just a matter of deflating the tyre and moving it back so the valve is straight again.
I also drill out the valve hole a little bigger. Not only does it give the valve a little more room to move, but it's also easier to get the valve back in at tyre change time. And has been said, running the valve loose by using the lock nut under the valve cap is a good idea, along with a metal valve remover cap on the front valve....Ya never know when you need a valve remover. I even run one on my VMX bikes.
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This is surely is a skill I need to learn about. Maybe I wouldn't hate it as much then. There should be a Tafe course or something.
There is no way I could repair this rear flat with two rim locks rolling around on the ground out on the trail.
What a suk job fitting new hard rears is :(
I want to register and start enjoying this little thing next week.
But if the tyres go flat before then, you will see it on ebay(all faults if any, including flat tyres)
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Some great tips and nohow there, I know more than I did twenty four hours ago, thanks :)
I think maybe my first strategy is to price a SatPhone and GPS.
If it strands me with a combo of un-ridable trail home with a flat rear?
I will just take my helmet of bash it against a rock a few times to make it look good, then call the Westpac rescue chopper.
Without a doubt, one of my more sensible Ideas.
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Mick,
Now you have two rim locks in the rear,you can ride it home or anywhere with a flat tyre!!
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Mick,
Now you have two rim locks in the rear,you can ride it home or anywhere with a flat tyre!!
:)
I'll be calling ya on the SatPhone if I don't make it ;D ;D
That is a great idea about setting the alloy rims up so the valve can lean over either way to give a greater tell-tale/witness.
I did the rear with a pointy double cut bit in the die grinder. You cannot tell from the outside, but the stem will freely move 45 degrees either way.
Very quick and perfect result. I will be doing that all the time from now.
In fact, I will go and strip the front again now. Do it the best I can 8)
I am going to open the hole up half a mm like Mark has suggested too. Just a little easier.
I could definitely replace the front tube on the trail. especially with these new levers. Not much risk of rim damage with them either.
Happy about them. I will put them up later.
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I only ever run 1 rim lock on both front and back. As others have said, 2 rim locks are a pain in the proverbial if you get a flat on a trail ride. Actually, it's even a hassle in the shed! Touch wood, I've never had a tyre move enough to rip out the valve. I have had tyres spin a little after a good days ride occasionally, then it's just a matter of deflating the tyre and moving it back so the valve is straight again.
I also drill out the valve hole a little bigger. Not only does it give the valve a little more room to move, but it's also easier to get the valve back in at tyre change time. And has been said, running the valve loose by using the lock nut under the valve cap is a good idea, along with a metal valve remover cap on the front valve....Ya never know when you need a valve remover. I even run one on my VMX bikes.
yep thats me favourate combo since the old Motocross days but stupid here is still putting the 2 in
hmm will review that one
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One rim lock for me,Two is too much like hard work ;), Ya gotta get one of these MickyD they save a lot of grief, most bike shops should be able to get em, there are various brands not just this one :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMMsMIH5ads
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Sure in most cases you can get away with a single rimlock or even none in some cases.
It depends on the tyre, the inflated pressure and the terrain and a combination of all three.
if your going to be riding some rocky stuff or very hard ground the back wheel is going to spin and then grip. This means something is going to slip a bit.That would be the tyre on the rim. Do it all day and you will have the wobbly stem disease that viagra wont fix.
if the tyre pressure is low then it wont grip the rim as tight as a higher inflation.
soft tyres as easy to fit and easier to slip in the rim.
Assess the terrain
Assess your tyre
Assess your pressures.
Its not that much harder really to change a tyre with two locks than a single. I run two as i hate working on a bike in the middle of the forest. Its usually find the hole and out with the can of whipped cream to see the day out. Its messy but its fast and easy so i can get back on the bike and home to do the job properly.
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I used to ride in the rock gardens that are also known as Nowra in the south of Sydney and Watagans
to the north.
As I said, I've only ever run 1 rim lock and I've never had an issue with any tyre (hard, soft or otherwise) spinning on the rim enough to rip out the valve.
And I always carry a spare tube and tyre levers with me on a trail ride, along with the rest of my trail tools. I'd hate to drive for 2 hours to go for an all day ride only to get a flat in the first hour and ruin my entire day because A, I didn't have a tube, and B, because i couldn't be bothered fixing a flat tyre.
Enduro riders fix things on the spot.....MXers go back to the pits and get someone else to fix the problem ;D ;D ;D