OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: alexbrown64 on October 17, 2014, 12:55:31 am
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Well, the RM80B is almost finished so time for another project. I used to race against the mighty 1979 RM80N back in the day and they were fast, good handling and futuristic looking. Modern KTMs have almost gone the same way with the beam/angular front mudguard. I searched around and found a cheapie on Ebay... looked all right in the pics.. a few problems here and there but should be good. Dougs removals delivered the beast last night after a long wait. It came from Ballarat to Perth. I nearly fainted when i saw it. What a piece of *hit. Photos didnt do it justice...it was worse. Hand painted tank and plastics..over the old decals and everything. Every nut and bolt on the bike is from a Jeep or a Trabant. Muffler off a Falcon.. bars from a Maico 490. I anticipated a few of the problems but sheeezzz.
Anyway, first thing is to check if she runs as bloke reckoned it used to run before it was stored in shed for years. Whacked a bit of 2T oil down the plug hole, changed the gearbox oil, removed the airbox and then kicked her over to check for spark. Yes.. we have ignition. OK, take off carb and run a Keyster kit through it, clean it and check float etc.. clean tank and stick some juice in...kickety kick and she starts after about 30 kicks and a can of "start ya bastard". Now were getting somewhere. Hot day in Perth so shorts and thongs on... get the old girl onto the street and take her for a burn.. all six gears and clutch working nice. Motor sounds worn and compression low but it all works.
Put her back in the garage and stare in amazement at the creativity of the previous owner. An old radiator hose cut up to replace the carb to airbox boot. Spacers put in in the shocks to make them even stiffer than the maximum stiffness (they are blown anyway). Ford Falcon Muffler welded onto existing exhaust pipe. Hmmmm bloke must of been a butcher.
After crying in my cocopops i reassessed the situation and turned it around. Before i tear her down, i cut the old muffler off and trial fitted a repackable DG muffler that is designed for the 1980 rm80. Thats the closest muffler i could get to original and i pre-ordered it from DC. The position is good as it misses the shock at full compression and clears the side plates. I just have to make an adapter plate to fix it to the frame.
Next, the tank. I was going up town today to drop my RM80B tank off to Red Alert Rod to get painted so i stripped the N tank down and took both of them up with all the decals etc. Cant thank Rod enough for his time and i know the jobs will look fantastic when finished.
The plastics where hand painted yellow and underneath is white crusty hard stuff. There are some splits etc and i was going to chuck them when i decided to have a closer look. The back/underneath revealed that they are all original plastics. I got a scraper and the paint and white crusty stuff fell away to reveal fresh new looking plastic. I think with some sanding and plastic renew, they will look pretty good. I just need a few small splits repaired. Anyone know if you can get yellow plastic welding. Need about 3 welds, 30mm long. The front mudguard is to far gone but you can still by OEM front guards for $90. I have a replica DC front number plate so all good so far.
Theres plenty more to share on this journey so i will leave it for now with some pics so far...
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_zps8ab65b0d.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_zps8ab65b0d.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/old_muffler_zpscc50801f.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/old_muffler_zpscc50801f.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/tank2_zps2dcae8d6.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/tank2_zps2dcae8d6.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/tank1_zps19eaefdc.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/tank1_zps19eaefdc.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/DG_muffler_zps39a6c51b.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/DG_muffler_zps39a6c51b.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/plastics_zpsf76b69a0.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/plastics_zpsf76b69a0.jpg.html)
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Rolling on the floor pissing myself laughing. Alex I had the same experience when I bought my YZ250C. I recon this seller moved from Cairns to Ballarat. My bike had a cut up Ice cream container with hose clamps joining the carb to the air box. That was just the start of a total restoration.
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Alex - told ya Rod was worth his weight in gold ;D His work is simply awesome!
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Yes Roscoe, Rods work is more that excellent.. he is a genius with the stuff he does on helmets etc.. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.. the bikes are going to be amazing with the new tanks on.
Its amazing Wayne what some of these characters do to bikes. Ice cream plastic! classic. I have posted a few Q's up in the tech section so maybe you can help me out with those after your experiences with doing up the little yammie.
Bike was cleaned and stripped down a bit today. All systems go....
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Bike has been fully stripped.
There were a few parts that cant be purchased new/hard to get/expensive post etc.. but i found some and have had them all posted for free to my US forwarding address. They will combine all the packages and send it on a lot cheaper.
Managed to find a good condition foot peg perch. My one was like spaghetti with cocky shit welding all over it.
Also got a rubber boot from carb to airbox (NOS)
And got a used stator cover which is in good nick.
Stripped the engine and piston is on third oversize at 1.5mm. Wiseco make a 2.0mm oversize so it will be a rebore.
Rod is sloppy so rebuild bottom end. Matika do a rod for cheap. Their all made in Taiwan anyway.
Took some spokes off and sending them to Thailand to that bloke that makes reproductions.
Frame needs some small welds then clean up and paint. Its a racer so no powder coat. Just epoxy gloss black, swingarm in silver.
I bought a 79 rm50 side panel to practice plastic welding on. I will cut strips off it and use it to plastic weld the small cracks in the originals once i can do it properly. Supposed to be polypropylene so heat can weld it. Cheap ebay plastic welding guns are 50 bucks.
Will need new front tyre, tubes, shocks, wheel bearings, throttle tube, nuts, bolts and the like. I already have a new seat cover,new renthal silver mini bars, cables, front number plate, muffler, brake shoes, etc..
I will take all the nuts, bolts, plates,springs etc up to ZincCoaters to get sorted. A lot of that stuff had to be chucked. Front sprocket nut was huge, like a construction nut used to bolt steel work together.
Cheers,
Alex
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Nice One Alex ....rememder my beast with laydown shocks and DG Gold rims ......what a rocketship ;-)
Richo
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I may just build a replica of yours Richo!
Bike is slowly coming along.. ordered a bunch of small parts from Partzilla and have taken all the hardware to the zinc coaters.
Below is a pic of the rm80n in 1979 which is what i am aiming for.....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/1979RM80N0_zpsc76def60.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/1979RM80N0_zpsc76def60.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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can you get that seat cover?
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You certainly can young man. Even comes with the velcro on the back and a strap with velcro on it for lifting the bike. Bloke in Thailand makes replicas and if you have an original in bad condition, send it to him and he will make you one for free. I have also sent him some sample spokes from the N as he does replica spokes... same thing... if he doesnt have it and you have some samples, he will make em up for you free.. called pit-upholstery and vintageAvenueShop on ebay and he is very good!
I am going to post a copy of his email to me and it should be a good lesson for all the blokes doing restores that cant get certain bits.... Now remember... i have the replica N seat and it is amazing quality. All the correct logo, colour and fits like a cock in a sock. I have had a bit of a prob with the spokes but he is sorting it out. I have a set of spokes and they are great quality but some how he got the gauge mixed up and i have thicker front spokes and thinner rear..... no problem.. he said keep them and he gave me my money back and now i have sent some samples so he can get it right.
From TC in Thailand:
Here are 2 incredible FREE OF CHARGE offers for you
1st OFFER – SEAT COVER **FREE OF CHARGE**
We are looking for seat cover samples of all popular motorcycle, ATC ATV& scooter. If any/all of your motorcycle or scooter still has its original seat, and you would be kind to send its original seat cover/s to us, we can replicate an identical one for you and mail it back to you totally free of charge. Don't worry if your seat cover was ripped or torn. This is the whole idea. Send us your used cover in exchange for a brand new one totally free of charge. All we request from you is to put on our seat cover and take some good pictures of it and then email them to us as soon as possible.
We are making only 1 offer for each model. First come first serve
Once we have received your seat cover sample, we will start production immediately. Within 2-4weeks, we will send you a brand new replica via airmail with shipping fee all taken care.
It’s all FREE OF CHARGE!!!
We are professional seat upholstery experts with more than 30years of experience. Heat pressed seat covers available nowhere but here in our shop. Quality assured. We sincerely invite you to visit our ebay stores and you will know the quality of our seat cover. Below are links to our ebay stores.
http://stores.ebay.com/Pit-Replica
http://stores.ebay.com/Replica-Store
http://stores.ebay.com/VintageAvenueShop
Remember! We will only accept 1sample for each model. So be the first! This is totally no risk to you...
Wait no more, email photos of your used original seat cover to me for approval of this offer!!!
2nd OFFER – SPOKE SET **FREE OF CHARGE**
We have a very wide range of spoke sizes in stock that will fit thousands of different motorcycle brands &models ever built. In an attempt to find out all motorcycle models that our spokes will fit, we have here another fantastic offer for you!!
Email us what motorcycle models you have. In return, we will let you know which of them are of interests to us. For selected models, send us 1 piece of each spoke as sample. There are inner and outer spoke on both front and rear wheel so please to sure to send us 1 of each spoke type. Upon receiving your spoke sample, we will match them with all the spoke sizes we have in my stock. After successful matching, we will send you a complete set of spoke & nipples that best match your samples. Shipping will be via airmail with shipping fee all taken care. We will also return your original spoke sample..
Again…This is totally FREE OF CHARGE!!!
Remember! We will only accept 1 sample for each model. So be the first! This is no totally no risk to you...
Thanks for reading! We really appreciate that you would share with us your collection of motorcycles & Scooters. We will reply you which of them are eligible for the offers mentioned above. Hope to hear from you of your kind participation...
We receive offers from all over the world every day. So act fast!!!
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Nice one Alex looking forward to seeing the end result !
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Progress update.
The frame was tig welded at the engine mounts and then i rubbed it back and gave it a coat of epoxy gloss black.
Got the seat back from the upholsterers... they stretched the repro cover over and stapled it all up. Looks great.
Rebuilt the forks. They fought hard. I dont think the oil had ever been changed as what came out looked like grey grease. The bottom bolts that hold the tubes on were seized. I made an impact 6mm allen key tool and got one loose. The other was rounded inside so i used a series of drill bits to drill the head off and then it came apart ok. Cleaned out, buffed up, new seals, o-rings, 150mm of ATF in each leg as per the N book and they are ready to go.
Had a bit of a peek at the engine. Took the clutch off and got my first surprise. 2 broken plates and a broken clutch basket. The basket has a big primary gear riveted on and one of the steel rivets was broken and everything was loose. I remember seeing one on ebay so i jumped on and got it. Not a bad price as it is NOS so thats all sorted. I took the stator off and now need to make a puller to get the rotor off.
The new rear shocks are on the way. I ordered 340mm Betor shocks. Standard was 325mm Showa and they look identical, even down to how you adjust the spring and the colour which is black with chrome springs. I ordered some Showa decals identical to the ones that are on the shocks on the N brochure which are green and yellow. The shocks i got are gas/oil trials shocks so the damping and spring are very light. Hopefully OK for the boy and so much cheaper than anything else i could get. $220 delivered from Spain. The DG suzuki from 79 had Betor forks so with my DG muffler and Betor shocks...im onto a theme...
Ive given all the alloy parts a quick polish and the hard parts come back on Tuesday so with the frame painted i can start bolting a few bit on like triple clamps, forks and new silver Renthal mini bars.
Also cleaned up the airbox. It had a few small holes from wear so i trimmed a few shavings off for donor welds and used a soldering iron to heat the area and weld the donor plastic on. Worked well.
Pics to come as it goes together....
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Sounds grear Alex....if you are going DG theme .......Gold heavy duty rims look awesome if I may say so myself :-)
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I thought about gold rims. However two things stopped me. My budget and the fact that the originals are OK. They are built like a brick *hit house. So, when i get my new spokes from Thailand, i will lace them to the hubs i have blasted and painted. Also installed all new wheel bearings, seals and brake pads.
OK, finally got the whole bike down to nothing. The engine was completely stripped and there where no major surprises. All bearings and seals out and they will be replaced. Crank out and that will go into the shop for a new rod.
The only part that i need that wasnt on my list was the shift shaft. It was grooved, rusty, worn and bent. Hmmm, i remember seeing NOS ones on Ebay for about a hundred bucks delivered. Budget getting tight... i typed in the part number and a Suzuki dealer over east had one for 22 dollars plus 3 dollars delivery. Thats on the way now!
Below is a pick of the left side of the engine with the rotor on. Your supposed to have a special rotor puller and rod holder to take the rotor off. A piece of 50mm flat plate and three M5 x 30 bolts did the trick. Just drill the holes about 8mm wide and 22mm apart in a triangular configuration and slowly nip them up with a few washers in there to take up the slack. Two wire brushes work well as a rod holder and presto.... rotor just pops off. Then i had to make a long philips bit for my impact driver to get the pan head screws out that are right in the side case cavity. 5 minute weld job and i had a tool to get those suckers out without damaging the cases.
The cases have been cleaned, stripped of paint and the one in the pick will get a little devcon to repair the wear from the chain hitting it.
Next on the list is to get all the engine bits ordered from Partzilla.
Now that the bike is fully apart and i have assessed the damage i can report back. She has been hammered over the years thats for sure but that is what she was made for. Its not going to be a garage queen like my B so this one can run with a few battle scars. The cylinder has one bent fin and the head has one chipped fin. The left case was whacked by the chain and it knocked a bit of ally off where the engine number is. Still good but i will reshape it to take the jagged edges off. Once they are blasted and painted they will look great and wont be noticed but its not concourse. The footpeg perch was a lost cause so another good used one is on the way and OEM pegs are still available for ten bucks each. Everything on the N was pretty much worn, rusty, bent, cracked, dented, missing, deformed, out of spec, leaking, not working or replaced with the wrong part. Everything now has been checked and rectified so she will be mechanically and cosmetically great when she is completed. Looking forward to reading other members builds on these little bikes. They are great projects.......
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rotorpuller_zps3e40fcea.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rotorpuller_zps3e40fcea.jpg.html)
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Great to see the effort to get a bike like this back to operational status, cheers good job
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Thanks Husky, yes its good to see the old girl coming back to life.
A few setbacks...
I finished sanding the plastics and they come up ok. There was a few discolorations so i got the heat gun out and gave them a blast. Worked good but when i got to the front mudguard i over cooked it and it warped and folded in half...s*it. The front fender is the only plastic bit you can still get OEM so i ordered a new one. I will put that down to experience.
Got the zinc hardware back from the coaters. They lost a swingarm dust cover. There are 4 and you cant get them from Suzuki... a quick search of the net and i found a NOS one in NZ so back on track.
I ordered new Orings from the local Suzuki shop for the fork caps. Get them home and they are too big. S*it.
Besides that, it is all systems go... will start bolting up bits soon and put a few pics up. Will be a wait now for a heap of parts coming from all over the place to start finishing it off. Hopefully before Christmas.
Cheers,
Alex
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surely (don't call me shirley >:() you could get o rings from a bearing shop anywhere??
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Its 20 kays to the closest bearing shop and the local Suzuki shop is just up the road. I usually pop in there for the odd cheap bits or to get something like a rebore or crank done.
Finally found some plastic satin black that i am happy with. Its VHT bumper and trim paint. I did a test on my knackered front mudguard and the colour is perfect for number backgrounds. This will be used on the sideplates as they are curved and the originals were painted as well.
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OK, i had a bit of a tinker even though the epoxy paint is still a bit soft. That will take months to harder properly, but i cant wait and started bolting some bits back on that are ready. Pics below......
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80nrebuild1_zps160b0faf.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80nrebuild1_zps160b0faf.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80nrebuild2_zpse97c2ae5.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80nrebuild2_zpse97c2ae5.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80nrebuild3_zps10c693d4.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80nrebuild3_zps10c693d4.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80nrebuild4_zps8ab9cecc.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80nrebuild4_zps8ab9cecc.jpg.html)
And below are some parts that didnt make it.... just too rusted, bent, twisted, warped and shagged out....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80nrebuild5_zpsf0754b35.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80nrebuild5_zpsf0754b35.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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Alex..... I know the feeling too well ;) Its a feel good thing when you can start bolting things back together. ;D
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;D ;)
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OK, everything coming along nicely. Just finished off the OEM plastics. They came up OK considering the mess. I have installed the DG muffler using a bracket i fabricated. I made sure the pic below included the chain tensioner that i built up from about 4 different places. CDI was polished up and installed and coil put back making sure i had cleaned some paint off for good contact.
I installed the wheel bearings in the freshly painted hubs and put in all new brake shoes. Waiting on TC from Thailand to send me the new spoke sets which he said he would have later next week.
Everything else is in the post.... rod, piston, bearings, seals, shocks, pegs, front mudguard, grips, etc..
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_dg_zpsb0250a32.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_dg_zpsb0250a32.jpg.html)
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3 great lies....
I'm from the government...im here to help you....
course i'll love you in the morning....
the cheques in the mail...
when are those parts supposed to arrive????
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Well, speak of the devil... some parts were supposed to arrive friday but got a call from the delivery mob saying it was on the wrong van...so monday.... anyway.. i was sniffing around craigslist and found a nice N for sale for 1200 US. Here it is on YouTube running...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdCS8AvSisk
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Finally got the Betor shocks. They didnt send them with the reducers that i asked for and the bushes were a bit wide so there was a lot of mucking around using some of the old 10mm bushes, cutting some narrower etc.. got it all to fit nicely in the end. The Betors are only 15mm longer than the originals and they are virtually a copy of the Suzuki Showa shocks from the original N. Below is a pick from my manual of the original Showa's.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_shocks_original_showa_zps472363d0.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_shocks_original_showa_zps472363d0.jpg.html)
When i installed the Betors, i added some Showa decals that are replicas of the ones from the N in 1979. Pic below of them fitted up.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_shocks2_showa_zps4c4ffa42.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_shocks2_showa_zps4c4ffa42.jpg.html)
I have also put the pegs perch on and fitted the new pegs. The pick below shows the bibs and bobs that have been going on including cables, throttle tube and grips, cdi, coil, carby and oem boot with new clamps...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_shocks1_showa_zps5a51a03a.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_shocks1_showa_zps5a51a03a.jpg.html)
Side covers back on and its all starting to come together and all fitting up well. The Betor/Showa shocks are very lightly sprung so should be good for my boy as he is only 9 years old....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_shocks3_showa_zps7a8922f6.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_shocks3_showa_zps7a8922f6.jpg.html)
Hopefully get the spoke sets soon and can then have a rolling chassis.
Cheers,
Alex
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Hi Alex,
Is that the seat cover from Thailand?
Nice job on the bike as well, great attention to detail,
Pete.
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Yamaico, the seat cover is from Thailand. TC at vintage_001 on Ebay makes them for many bikes, and if you have a tatty original that he doesnt have, he will make you a replica for free. He is currently making up some spoke sets and sending them to me as well.
Cheers,
Alex
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Thanks Alex, it looks like a good job. I work in Thailand regularly, I'll have to look him up.
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the springs on those shox look like they are off a totem tennis pole ;D ;D
bike is looking good, just needs a few final details (like a motor)
considering what you started with, its turned out above expectation.....
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Spose if the shocks dont work out i can hang a string and tennis ball off em. I think the 80 was designed for a 50-60 kg kid going at race speed. My boy is 28kg ringing wet so hopefully the light springs will work a treat. You can swap em out for heavier ones as they fatten up. Partzilla just sent the final order on Friday.. full of goodies to finish off the project... except for the spokes... still waiting on those.... oh and the tank.... hmmmm might be ready for Christmas. Pic below of all the nickers nackers ready to assemble. Going to buy a cheapo blow torch to heat the cases and get the bearings back in. Also have a 2.0mm oversize piston coming so that will go with the barrel for a rebore. OEM rod is on the way and i will hand that in with the crank for a rebuild. Motor will be so tight you wont be able to get a pin up its arse with a jack hammer.
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_repainted_zps1f9cd8de.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_repainted_zps1f9cd8de.jpg.html)
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Looking good Alex, You can also leave the cases in the sun on a warm day for a bit, In the oven on low if the wife ain't home or in a covered barby raised up off the hotplate on low,The Oven/barby will also cure your paint job ;),Bearings in the freezer ;)
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Thanks Smed.. i did bake them last week. Waited till everyone was out then oven roasted them at 100-150 C until i smoked the house out. Made sure i opened all the windows and then afterwards went around with airfreshner... no one was any the wiser and i think i cured everything up nicely. The hubs are epoxy so they are slow curing over a period of a month or so.
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Ok, time for some updates.......
Well, i received the spoke sets from TC Vintage_001 from Ebay in Thailand. They are great. He didnt have any for the N,T,X models so i sent him some samples and he made me up a free set for the front and rear. The bend, length, gauge etc are great and the quality looks good. Worth a go if you need spoke kits and they are cheap to buy.
Anyway, thought i would put up a review of how i rebuilt the wheels. I tore them apart, blasted and repainted the hubs, fitted new wheel bearings and new brake shoes. The brake arms were newly zinc coated and new seals fitted. Original rims were cleaned up as best as i could and the spoke sets organized.
OK.. here we go.......
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel1_zps0ee93980.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel1_zps0ee93980.jpg.html)
This is the front wheel and you follow the same routine for the rear also. There are only 2 different spokes for the front. 18 spokes with a slightly less than 90 degree bend at the nipple end and 18 with a 90 degree bend. I did the outside to inside spokes first. I cant remember which bend it is but just try one of each and you will notice that one bend of spoke will not bend in toward the rim. Find which bend fits and then just insert them every second hole in the hub. There are 4 different hole types in the rim. Find the hole type that corresponds to the direction of the spoke. Be careful here because i got it wrong once even though i could of swore i was correct. Anyway, the hole you want leans out to the outside of the hub and in the direction of the spoke. The other 3 holes either point towards the other side of the hub or in another direction....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel2_zps55b589c6.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel2_zps55b589c6.jpg.html)
Put all 9 spokes in and loosely put a nipple on each one.....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel3_zps8c86d3b4.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel3_zps8c86d3b4.jpg.html)
Turn the whole thing over and put the other 9 outside to inside spokes in. The reason we are doing all the outside to inside spokes first is because we are going to put our inside to outside spokes in last and dont want to get trapped like i did the first time i did it.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel4_zps815a9590.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel4_zps815a9590.jpg.html)
OK, we should have all our outside to inside spokes in with loose nipples. Next, you will use the other bend spokes and go inside to outside. Work you way around and find the corresponding hole in the rim.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel5_zps580fe778.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel5_zps580fe778.jpg.html)
You should end up with something like the above....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel6_zps3257d161.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel6_zps3257d161.jpg.html)
Keep the rim on the edge of a table and thread through all the inside to outside spokes as above.....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel7_zpsce44e348.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel7_zpsce44e348.jpg.html)
You will notice that the spokes go over the first sets you put in. Makes them easy to fit eh.....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel8_zpsb1beeec1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel8_zpsb1beeec1.jpg.html)
The finished product. Its all loose and wobbly but thats the next bit we will tackle....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/wheel9_zpsc988da9c.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/wheel9_zpsc988da9c.jpg.html)
I made my own wheel truer using some good ole wood from Bunnings. A cable tie under the rim and one on the side cut so that they just touch the side and underneath of rim. There are plenty of Youtube vids to show you various techniques to true a rim so do a bit of research. I kind of got the vertical runout nice by using the technique of pulling the top spokes up a bit if the rim hit the cable tie at the bottom. Same for the sides. If the rim touched the cable tie on the left, i would tighten up a few spokes on the right to pull it over. Play with it for a while and it all comes good. Then just nip them all up to your desired tune... i have always tapped them to get a nice high note and check for tightness.
Anyway, thats the basics... just check a few vids out first. Also, take plenty of pics of your rims before you start so you can see your pattern. Not all spoke lengths are equal either and also not all rims and hubs are equal on both sides so measure the run out on each side before you start using a straight edge.
Cheers,
Alex
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Some people will change tyres themselves but wont respoke rims. I am the opposite. If i change a tyre, i generally *uck the bead of the tyre, puncture the tube, scratch the rim and bruise my knuckles. I took the wheels and tyres to the bike shop and let them fit new rim tapes, inner tubes and get the tyres on properly. $50 all up and i saved myself a nightmare.
I came home and fitted up the new wheel sets. Had a few dramas with the new brake shoe springs being too big on the rear and getting caught on the bearing part of the hub. All sorted by using the old springs that i also had zinc coated.
Below are some pics of the rolling chassis. The suspension feels great. Really nice and balanced and lightly damped and sprung both ends.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/roller1_zps2620272c.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/roller1_zps2620272c.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/roller2_zpsec9c9420.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/roller2_zpsec9c9420.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/roller3_zpsb1c43b80.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/roller3_zpsb1c43b80.jpg.html)
On a side note... i have a new front mudguard that i was going to fit. It is a brand new OEM RM80N one but also fitted other models such as the RM60 etc and some TS models i think. Anyway i unwrap it and its f*cking silver. Whaaat, seems like the only ones left after 35 years are some from a TS or something that was silver. Well, these are hard to get and its the correct fit, shape and factory original so i PM'd RedAlert and he said this silver thing is common. He has my paint mixed for the B and N tanks and said he had enough for the front mudguard. So i will take it up to Rod for painting... thanks Rod...
Cheers,
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At great expense, i purchased a Cycle Magazine from November 1979 with a shootout of the RM80N, YZ80F and KX80. I have made a backup of the RM80N part of the test and have posted it up here for educational purposes... Of note is the fact that the RM was 3 horses down on the Yamaha. Suzuki gained some power from revised cylinder porting but lost it in the jetting and revised exhaust which has an inside skin with perforations and packing. The remedy is to get a C pipe which didnt have the power robbing dual layer pipe. However, they say the RM had better suspension. I loved the suspension on my YZ80F back in the day so the RM must of been pretty good.
Below is the backup copy of the RM80N test posted up for educational purposes ;-)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/shootout_p1_zpsa2019fe3.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/shootout_p1_zpsa2019fe3.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/shootout_p2_zps024e9545.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/shootout_p2_zps024e9545.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/shootout_p3_zps6b4d8330.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/shootout_p3_zps6b4d8330.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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On a side note... i have a new front mudguard that i was going to fit. It is a brand new OEM RM80N one but also fitted other models such as the RM60 etc and some TS models i think. Anyway i unwrap it and its f*cking silver. Whaaat, seems like the only ones left after 35 years are some from a TS or something that was silver. Well, these are hard to get and its the correct fit, shape and factory original so i PM'd RedAlert and he said this silver thing is common. He has my paint mixed for the B and N tanks and said he had enough for the front mudguard. So i will take it up to Rod for painting... thanks Rod...
Cheers,
No don't do that just yet Alex. First you should try hitting the silver paint with some thinners. You will most likely find the silver is painted on over the original yellow plastic as I have seen this on plenty of NOS Suzuki plastics. just be careful with the thinners and try in a spot you won't see just to make sure.
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Thanks Simo, i will duck out to the shed and give it a try and report back on the results
Cheers,
Edit: I ducked out to the shed and the plastic is off white underneath... oh well....
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similarly to what Simo was saying - Suzuki had some strange bits and pieces NOS/OEM - I have heard of guards etc being silver from the factory regardless of model.
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Edit: I ducked out to the shed and the plastic is off white underneath... oh well....
Oh bugger .. not heard of off-white underneath before? Oh well off to the painter ;)
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Hi Alex, great work. I know how you feel about a bike turning up that doesn't quite 'match' the online pics prior to purchase. I was sent pics of a pristine RM125B but alas, when it arrived it needed quite a bit of work. My RM80B is all original except for pipe and it has the N model pipe - I wondered why it doesn't have that crisp 'crackling' exhaust sound of the B I remembered - hence I've just bought an original OEM B pipe to replace pronto! 8) In late 1979 I'd saved for months and with help from my parents bought me an XR80R as the Honda/Suzuki dealership had just sold it's last RM80N and the new XR80 1980 model was on showroom floor - what a regret! Will start looking for an N to buy cheers Mal
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Thanks Mal, yeh back when i was a kid it was all YZ,s. The 125 B's are a really nice bike. My 80B is just about finished and only needs the tank which is getting finished off now. The N is almost there as well. I just got the crank back from Witch Cycles Suzuki and they installed new rod and shims plus i got a rebore on the barrel and new 2mm oversize Wiseco piston and rings. Ive put it all back together twice this week. The reason being that my photos of pulling the engine apart didnt match the pictures in the manual. He had the primary drive and idle gears on back to front and the thrust washer missing from behind the clutch basket. Also, there is a spacer that goes on the crank that fills the gap between the crank and seal. I didnt remember putting the spacer on so i pulled it all apart again and there it was... it was jammed on the crank the whole time. Anyway, engine is together and back in bike. Ordered the thrust washer and a few other knickers knackers and then just waiting on the tank and front guard to get finished off.
Until i read the shootout on the N, i didnt realize there was a difference in the exhaust either. I have a YouTube vid of the B being revved up and its loud. You should put up a few pics of the B in this thread or in the B thread i made... be good to compare notes. Good luck with the N, they do come up once in a while and they are fun to build up.
Cheers,
Alex
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I purchased a copy of Cycle World from November 1979. It has a mini bike shootout and i have uploaded here for a backup and for educational purposes.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p1_zps8df445d7.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p1_zps8df445d7.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p2_zps9bb2d8df.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p2_zps9bb2d8df.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p3_zpsab9ac715.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p3_zpsab9ac715.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p4_zpsfbb2b5ca.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p4_zpsfbb2b5ca.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p5_zps87bd56b9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p5_zps87bd56b9.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p6_zpsd7c635f9.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p6_zpsd7c635f9.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p7_zpsde74eb97.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p7_zpsde74eb97.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/p8_zps41e8209a.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/p8_zps41e8209a.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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And here is a pic of the latest update to the RM80N. Still needs some work but were getting there now....
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_17_12_14_zps8d2d7588.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_17_12_14_zps8d2d7588.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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Absolutely fantastic job Alex ........lets do the 79 Wanneroo state round again!
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Hi Alex, took some pics of my RM125B and 100% original CR125RZ (like your B it has everything original and in great condition incl tyres and sprockets etc) - I'm actually having trouble uploading the pics here - isn't it simply using the insert image button? My second 125B is a bit rough and needs work. I don't have the home workshop and time atm so thinking of sending it away to a dealership or find a restoration workshop to give it a bit of spit and polish - just enough to take out on weekends. Looking forward to seeing the bikes once the tanks are on - fantastic job!
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Top work Alex. The bike looks a million bucks.
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Hi Alex, took some pics of my RM125B and 100% original CR125RZ (like your B it has everything original and in great condition incl tyres and sprockets etc) - I'm actually having trouble uploading the pics here - isn't it simply using the insert image button? My second 125B is a bit rough and needs work. I don't have the home workshop and time atm so thinking of sending it away to a dealership or find a restoration workshop to give it a bit of spit and polish - just enough to take out on weekends. Looking forward to seeing the bikes once the tanks are on - fantastic job!
Thanks for the reply's fellas... the little fella loves it and can just stand up on it on tippy toes.. may have to drop the forks an inch.
Mal, you have to use a hosting service to upload pics.. such as photobucket. Easy enough but a pain.
Cheers,
Alex
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You have good eye for detail, great work mate
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Thanks fella's on the positive remarks. Well, when i picked up the tank for the B from Rod, "RedAlert", he also had the tank and front fender ready for the N. What i job he has done. It has come up perfect. He used the same Rolls Royce match that is identical to the OEM guard i provided. I fitted everything up this morning and also connected the carby properly and installed the pipe. All fitting up nicely. The right side still needs some work as parts are coming to finish off the clutch and a few other things. Then it will be ready for tuning, testing and running in. Young fella saw it and had a grin from ear to ear. This bike has been rebuilt taking into account that it will be ridden by the young fella. New airfilter, new rod, all new bearings and seals, rebore, piston and rings, new rear shocks, rebuilt front shocks, new wheel bearings, chain and sprockets, chain tensioner etc...
Big thanks to RedAlert for the great job on the tank and front fender and everyone on here for input and support.
Pics below of semi-finished bike...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/tank1_zps19eaefdc.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/tank1_zps19eaefdc.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/1979RM80N0_zpsc76def60.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/1979RM80N0_zpsc76def60.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond2_zps3b2c9abf.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond2_zps3b2c9abf.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond1_zps44e765f4.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond1_zps44e765f4.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond3_zpsca1952ed.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond3_zpsca1952ed.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond4_zpsa7e0c9a2.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond4_zpsa7e0c9a2.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond5_zps5551faf1.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond5_zps5551faf1.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/recond6_zps30efdf32.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/recond6_zps30efdf32.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Alex
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How cool is that! Well done.
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Thanks mainline... my boy loves it and it brings back memories for me too.
Anyway, i finally finished the rebuild today. There are a few small tweaks and adjustments but overall its finished. Yesterday, i got it back together but there was a problem with the tranny. I kinda thought there would be as i knew my shift pawl wasnt lining up perfectly but didnt realize at the time that i could adjust it. After some serious thought and stripping it back down, i discovered the set screw that has a cam on the back but i have never noticed without my reading glasses. Pic of problem below...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/shiftpawlrm80_zps062a5873.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/shiftpawlrm80_zps062a5873.jpg.html)
And the set screw that is cammed at the back but i never noticed... well, i adjusted the pawl using the cam on the set screw and got it aligned like the pic above.. Here is the set screw showing the cam section. Its only 2mm but makes a huge difference.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/camscrew_zps7bac726c.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/camscrew_zps7bac726c.jpg.html)
And finally, below is a pic as its sits after i took it for a test ride in the park next door. Run it through the gears and it is like butter. Clutch works great and motor is tight but great. Started 4th kick and idled well and has a nice snap and sound. The last things to do is a fix the steering lock as the forks touch the tank, shim the top mounting bolts of the shocks as they bind slightly and then just go around and loctite nuts and bolts, check everything over and give it a good wash. Then it will be ready for running in and more checks.
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_finished_zps7c636578.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_finished_zps7c636578.jpg.html)
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Magnificent ! ;D Well done
Love the look of all the RM / N models big & small .
Nice to see this little machine resurrected .
Regards ,
Steve
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Top job Alex 8) 8) 8)
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Love ya work Alex. That looks awesome.
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That is an excellent resto/rescue Alex. I hope the little bloke appreciates what he has and treats it with the respect it deserves.
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well done mate, top job ;)
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Well, this project is finished. I made some final adjustments today and now she starts first kick and runs like a beauty. The boy loves it and will take it for its first ride soon. I have taken the final pix of the old girl completed. Hope to look after her and have it for many years to come.
I have installed an hour meter to keep track of the next 36 years. Big thanks again to RedAlert Rod who did a great job on the tank and front guard. Here she is...
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_1_zps24fde78a.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_1_zps24fde78a.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_2_zpse869438c.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_2_zpse869438c.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_3_zps4f0dcc64.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_3_zps4f0dcc64.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_4_zps2fca1558.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_4_zps2fca1558.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_5_zpsc8f7aee3.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_5_zpsc8f7aee3.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_6_zpsc81e1f89.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_6_zpsc81e1f89.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_7_zpsc18bcc5d.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_7_zpsc18bcc5d.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_8_zps201e7940.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_8_zps201e7940.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_9_zpsd4ff0dce.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_9_zpsd4ff0dce.jpg.html)
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A credit to you , well done , your young bloke has something built not bought
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Now that's a bloody nice little bike well done.
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Looks great Alex, a real credit to the effort you put into it. Hope to see it at a track soon, but one of those' shame to get it dirty' bikes right now :)
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What can I say except EXCELLENT workmanship.
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Fantastic work Alex.......that is exactly as I remember my brand new one back in 1979, that went on to place and win a round in the WA junior championships on a completely stock motor,just with suspension mods and DG gold rims ......it was a rocket :-)
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Congratulations on a brilliant job...that was the bike I loved in '79. Btw...does anyone know if you can still get a brand new RM80B rear tyre - the same 'Gripper' tread tyre as per the 1977 model? That's all that's left for my RM80B...thanks Mal
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Malcolm, I am waiting on a IRC 3.60X14 Gripper style knobby from Ficeda in NSW. Apparently they are on backorder but are still available, I purchased a front just recently, 2.50x16.
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Hi Mal, since doing the rebuild, i am having trouble confirming if the B back tire i have on the bike is indeed the original. I was told it was and the bike was hardly used but i am not sure. My gripper tread pattern is 5 knobs then 6 knobs, 5,6 5,6, etc... but the pics in the magazines seem to have 4,5,4,5 tread pattern very similar to this one.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/IRC-122166-Mini-Cross-Motorcross-Tire-45Z-360-14-MX-4-PLY-/231279134945?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d94f88e1&vxp=mtr
Suzuki311 may be on to it with the tire he is looking at. I will do some more research and get back to you... does anyone have a close up of an original rear wheel?
Cheers,
Alex
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Well, took the boy out for his first run on the RM80N today. He is used to riding a ktm50 which is auto and has only had 1 quick ride on a manual 65cc. So, it was a learning curve for him today and he did well and really enjoyed it. Just running the bike in using first and second gear at the moment. Bike is starting and running well considering it is the first time it has been ridden in years, as the previous owner had it in a shed and when i got it, it was completely rebuilt.
Initial impression: Motor is still tight with a bit of a bog off bottom. Front wheel squeeking like a mouse even though i have new wheel bearings, brakes and seals in there. There is a rattle coming from the engine somewhere.
Everything else is fine. When we got home, i washed and dried it and covered it in WD40 and put her away for a while until i have time to go through it all.
It was great to see the boy riding around in his Suzuki gear and seeing an "N" going around for the first time in 36 years.
Cheers,
Alex
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_2015a_zps7fcz9tbq.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_2015a_zps7fcz9tbq.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_2015c_zpslpyu8hfg.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_2015c_zpslpyu8hfg.jpg.html)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/rm80n_2015b_zpskyryvcho.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/rm80n_2015b_zpskyryvcho.jpg.html)
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Nice shirt on your son, really matches the bike. Looks like he really enjoyed himself
Is it possible that the internal spacer between the bearings is a little bit short causing the squeak?
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That's a very nice little bike and your son is a very lucky boy
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wow my inner 13 year old is just loving that bike :P....back in 79 again cool
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Looks awesome Alex......takes me back to 1979 when I owned mine ;-)
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Thanks fella's for the comments. Yes the lad loves it and cant wait to go again. The jersey is vintage and he got it for xmas. I suspect the squeaky front wheel is the spacer. The spacer is tight in between the bearings. When i got the axle re-zinc plated it was a tight fit, so i suspect the spacer is rotating and squeaking against the bearings.
Richo, the bike is the same but the boy needs a few years yet to get up to the speed you run yours at. Glad it brought back memories. The grin on my face was as big as his.
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Love it !!! Awesome job man. The smile on the kids face says it all 8)
Fantastic resto. A credit to you
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Alex you are a restoration maestro! Im glad your son likes it and the happiness it brings you both ;-)
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Great Stuff, brings a tear to an old man,,,, Im over it now ;) well done and keep up the good work
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how did the rear springs go - they always looked light?
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Thanks for the compliments guys. The rear springs were perfect. They are light but the lad is only 9 and weighs 27kg. You can get heavier springs for the Betors, and when he is bigger and faster that will be an upgrade i can perform.
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OK, i fixed the front brake squeak. It was the brake springs rubbing on the inner hub. The drum brake springs are bigger than the OEM ones and just touch the hub, so i reused the old ones, which i had zinc plated a long time ago and had kept as spares. All good.
A big problem though is the rattle i heard and mentioned in a former post. Nothing loose... but i have a bad case of pinging. Sounds like a can of loose bolts in there. I had the last size overbore and it has played havoc. I opened up the top end and the head gasket protrudes into the bore. I modified it to suit the bore. However, the head will need machining. The squish, diameter and everything is all over the place and will need to be matched up to the bigger bore. Anybody know someone in Perth who does a good job.
Once that is done, the boy should have a great bike, as that was the only two problems.
Cheers,
Alex
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Hi Alex, great job 8), how did the spokes go ?
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Alex,
I use Ray Easson motorcycle engineering in Bayswater, been around a long time and knows his stuff.
cheers
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Hi Alex I have finally got hold of a an RM 80C to fix up.It has the later X motor but that doesn't bother me as it looks the same as the C motor.Would you have the serial numbers for the frames.I tried the US site but it doesn't correspond with our aussie models.Its taken me 10 years to get hold of one of these so Im pretty happy thanks to my mate John.Cheers Richo.
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Reg, the spokes were great. Fitted well, looked good and had no problems and the price is great. Micko, cheers, i did give him a ring but a bit pricey. I sent the head to Ian Williams in Adelaide. Have not got it back yet but will report on progress.
Nice work Richo, the C is a great bike. I hope the B and N rebuilds help you out with your bike. Rod at http://www.radmotorcycleshockyrepairs.com.au/ can rebuild those old shocks and the Rolls Royce paint is a great match. My B has a frame number 12447 manufactured on 11/76. My N frame number is 47830. The C on http://www.vintagefactory.com/1978_suzuki_rm80c.htm is about the nicest example i have seen. Good luck with it and hope you post up some pics.
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Hi Alex not sure how to post pics mate ......any pointers would be appreciated.Cheers.
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Easy Richo, just register with www.photobucket.com and upload your pics to them. For each pic, they give you a link, which you cut and paste into this forum. Its free and easy.
Cheers,
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The RM looks like a perfect fit for the lad. awesome awesome awesome!!!
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Its been a while and the little N' has been in bits waiting... I got the cylinder head back from Ian Williams tuning in Adelaide after he had to make a jig and machine the head to match the cylinder. I refitted it still using the two base gaskets. I know this will alter the port timing a bit but i want to make sure i don't get the pinging back. Everything was torqued down to spec ready for the next step......
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/Machined_head_zpskdunvzwt.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/Machined_head_zpskdunvzwt.jpg.html)
I made a leakdown tester for about $15 using a cheap 10 PSI gauge from Ebay and fittings from Bunnings. After fixing leaks in the leakdown tester, spark plug hole and exhaust manifold, i was ready to do the test. I pressurized the engine to 6 psi for 5 minutes and it held perfectly. So, in theory, my main seals should be OK and manifolds, head gaskets etc.. not sucking air.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/alexbrown64/Leak_test_zps1a3dbefs.jpg) (http://s40.photobucket.com/user/alexbrown64/media/Leak_test_zps1a3dbefs.jpg.html)
I purchased a new needle and pilot jet from MikuniOz and fitted them up. I am hoping that all these minor changes and mods will eliminate the pinging and settle the idling down. I hope to get it back together for a test in the next few days. I may still go with a new ignition as the original is looking a bit old and turning the stator from side to side does not seem to have an affect on rpm... looking at an HPI ignition... http://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=068K338
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OK, got a brand new Mikuni carb from MikuniOz and i jetted it exactly to OEM specs using new needle jet, jet needle and pilot. Put the bike back together and it started 4th or 5th kick. I let the old girl warm up and i still cant get the idling to settle properly. In fact, when the bike is on the stand idling, it will idle slightly high for 5 or 6 seconds, then idle a bit lower for a while, then idle a bit higher again. Any idea what that usually means? I took her for a spin in the garden and she seems to run great.... however i am still getting some pinging. I am planning on getting the boy to give it a darn good thrashing, as since the rebuild he has only run it in and kind of blubbered around. I think it needs Richo on it!!
I am still contemplating putting on a new HPI ignition as i think the old one may not be perfect, and at least i can eliminate another cause. Otherwise, it will just be a case of ride it, have fun and don't be so pedantic.
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Maybe try the next size up pilot jet, the symptoms you describe would normally indicate a lean condition & you've eliminated most sources of air leaks. You could also try spraying around the carb while it's running to see if the carb to manifold joint has a leak that the tester doesn't show, the revs dropping will show that something isn't quite sealed like the clamp needs to be slightly tighter
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Thanks tony, i may put the larger pilot back in that the new Mikuni came with. I did spray "start ya bastard" around the stator side seal, carb joints etc.. but there was no change. I will let the lad ride it some more and report back.
Cheers,
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Well, the N project has been sitting on the sidelines for a while. Every now and then i tinker, but i get dejected when it wont run right. I put a new HPI ignition on, and it turned into a rocket, but the top end still rattled like hell.
My boy wanted to ride, so he has a JR80 suzuki now, which still uses a detuned version of the 77 RM80B 5 speed engine.
I now have another cylinder and head to try and i have also purchased a 78 "C" full exhaust system. I scored an expansion chamber, muffler, all brackets and springs etc.. from the U.S. Very rare and should help make the N go and sound like it should.
The B and C shared the same muffler. They used to call it a stinger and it made the bike sound like a Bee. The N mufflers were a bit longer, a bit quieter and in my opinion never sounded as good.
The B, C and N pipes were virtually identical, except my research has shown that the N pipe had an inner perforated core to bring the noise levels down, as well as a slightly redesigned rear mount. The B and C were brutally loud and to me as a kid sounded fantastic. I will replace the existing pipe and DG muffler with the C system.
I am determined to get the old girl running correctly. It will just require some persistance!!
Cheers,
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I put a new HPI ignition on, and it turned into a rocket
So happy with the performance of the HPI obviously ;), Was it the complete kit? & how do you rate it compared to the PVL on your 125? :)
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The first time i ran the little rm with the hpi, it made a remarkable difference. But, the bike was still pinging. So i left it for 6 months. Next time i started it, it was missing. Could be old fuel, crap in carb, dirty plug etc.. I cant really compare hpi to pvl. PVL seems better quality but is much more expensive. Both seem to be really good. I am still having issues with both the yellow YZ and RM, but am sorting through them. The HPI was good value for money and made a huge difference to the stock RM one. The biggest difference to the YZ was the cone pipe made by Jemco. I can swap the pipe between my yellow and white YZ and it completely changes power. Turns the 125 from a broader power band into a sharp, short and snappier power band, which i like on a 125... just keep it on the boil...
I have a lot of work commitments, but i have a new ProX piston kit for the 125 which i am giving to Ray Easson in Perth to match up. I will also jet the bike a little richer so hopefully i get rid of the nipping up problems.
I also have a cylinder and head from a JR80 which are identical to the RM80 parts externally. I have not looked yet, but i suspect the ports will be different. The cylinder is still on its first size, so i also taking that to Ray Easson to match up and fit a new piston kit. I also have the new pipe and muffler coming from a 78 model rm which was more free flowing. So, hopefully with all these mods on the two bikes, i will be able to get them both running they way they should, and me and the boy can go out and enjoy some VMX.
Cheers,