OzVMX Forum
Marketplace => eBay Finds => Topic started by: John Orchard on September 09, 2014, 03:43:46 pm
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These guys in the States have low priced steel handlebars with a crazy low shipping cost. You can get them delivered for less than the purchase price from other suppliers!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FLY-RACING-1010-CARBON-STEEL-7-8-STANDARD-MOTORCYCLE-HANDLEBARS-DIRTBIKE-ATV-/151398474388?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&var&hash=item23400d6294&_uhb=1
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Anyone tried these handlebars? Any good? Also find this http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSR-Profile-Carbon-Steel-7-8-Standard-Handlebars-RM-High-Silver-RM-High-/231263448261?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASuzuki&hash=item35d8602cc5&vxp=mtr
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I think the bars would be ok but the freight would make them too expensive compared with buying them here.
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Showing as A$75 with delivery?
Is this cheaper than you can buy locally?!
If I never ride another dirt bike with steel bars, it will be too soon.
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Carbon steel is just another name for mild steel
1010 grade is a mild steel grade
.083" = 2mm wall thickness
wouldn't be the strongest of bars
I can get cheap alloy bars locally for $60.00 plus postage, been using a set on my KDX for years.
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Renthal jimmy button high bends alloys $79.95 from local peter theivens store is pretty good price and keeps it local.
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??? I can supply generic steel bars for $25. Classic high steel painted or chrome are dearer but are a lot higher than the RM ones.
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Canam370 is the go for handlebars in Australia.
I prefer to use steel handlebars for two reasons, the first (and major) is it looks 'period', the second, if (when) I crash, and it's a big enough to bend the bars, I can just put a foot on the footpeg and wrench them straight again and keep on riding.
I've had crashes big enough to bend thick wall, alloy bars and not been able to bend them straight again.
And I've never in 40 years had a pair of handlebars break on me.
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I broke a set of steel Cro-mo (I think Answer) bars at Deep Creek in 83 while learning how (not to) jump doubles
Throttle side snapped clean off at the brace
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I hate the 'sting' you get through your wrists from steel bars. I also appreciate the vibration dampening you get from alloy bars.
The mild steel ones are also so bloody soft. The part where you can bend them back by hand/foot says it all... The shitty Reikon alloy bars that I hate so much, require far more effort to straighten than any low-carbon steel bars I've ever straightened - and a set of Renthals or Pro-Tapers take about twice the force to straighten than Reikons.
Chromoly is much stronger, but it has a shorter fatigue life than alloy (in this application), so that brings its own set of risks.
For dirtbikes, frames should be made from steel and handlebars should be made from aluminium alloy... :)
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i had handlebars break steel
cr500 1996 model in 1998
always run alloy bars now ftw al