OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: alexbrown64 on September 01, 2014, 01:59:17 pm
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Hi members, i am going to get the rm80 tank painted..anyone recommend a good painter that charges a reasonable price in Perth. Also, i am going to get all the zinc parts re-plated. Any one recommend a good electroplaters in Perth that can do all the spokes etc at a reasonable price.
Cheers,
Alex
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I just got a quote back from Motorcycle Panel and Paint in Osbourne Park. Paint tank, apply decals and clear coat. $660. There is a pea sized indent that they will repair. Sheeezzzz its only a mini motocross bike. Hate to see the cost of a Harley tank with murals and all that. Any idea where i can buy that Phenolia yellow??
Cheers,
Alex
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Any idea where i can buy that Phenolia yellow??
1975, when lead in paint was still legal, quote sounds about right but the job will be perfect too, try osbourne plating for zinc plating.
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If you know Allan Mitchell from the VMX club his son in Law Aaron does a few tanks at the right price
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Thanks guys. I got a good quote on the plating. All spokes, nipples and all bolts and nuts for the bike for $75 from a place in radium rd welshpool.
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email a young fella on here called Red Alert - Rod - one of the absolute best in the business. You should see the Fox Replica RC tank he has just done for me - work of art. He is in Perth
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Yes Rosco, i know Rod... i will have to PM him and see what he can do.
Cheers,
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I took the zinc parts to http://www.zinccoaters.com.au/ and they are doing 72 spokes in zinc, about 250 nuts, bolts, washers, brackets, springs, rods etc in zinc and 72 nipples in gold for $120. Turn around time 1 week. I will post a pick when i get them back. Thats everything on the bike. I only lost about six or seven bolts on the entire rm80b due to rounded philips heads etc..
I took the frame, swingarm, footpegs, sprocket, brake rods, shock springs and all the parts i want i gloss black to http://www.southsidepowdercoaters.com/ and they are blasting, zinc undercoating and gloss black powdercoating everything for $180. Turn around time 1 week.
I will also post up a pick of the results. So... i think these are pretty good prices for the amount of work. Once i get everything back and i am happy, i will put in a recommendation for these mobs for people that want this work done in Perth.
Cheers,
Alex
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I have been admiring your thread re the RM80, I personally prefer to avoid powdercoating for the originality factor but for hard wearing items that are not structural like footpegs and sidestands, brake lever etc it is hard to beat. Paint your frame in black poly if you ever plan on refinishing it, powdercoating is a mother to remove if you have a change of heart or need to touch it up. Just my 2cents worth and perhaps worthy of consideration. I look forward to seeing the progress, you have a gem of a mini there.
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Thanks Rocketfrog. The B wont be ridden (But it will be in running order) so i dont mind doing everything in powder coat. When i stripped it i had the intention of just touching things up, but the extent of corrosion, chips and scratches when examined up close warranted getting it all done professionally. The cylinder, hubs, exhaust etc.. i am blasting and painting at home using soda from Super cheap and my blasting cabinet from Bunnings. I have an RM80N arriving soon and that bike will be raced so i am taking an entirely different approach. Epoxy paint, new spokes and parts etc..
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Well the price is definitely right for the powder coating, my local powdercoater is sketchy to give a quote and mentions figures around $500 to do a frame including the blasting. Needless to say, I stick with paint. I have a YZ100 that came up very well with a scrub like your RM. It has been used by my son and I since the scrub up and now that the bottom end needs work, it is getting a birthday with lots of NOS bits and fresh paint for the parts originally in gloss black. It had surface rust and some pitting on the frame and arm but all tabs and brackets secure, no rail damage and footpegs straight with little play.
The YZ will be ridden as it is too much fun not to.
I will need to replace the rims as they are cracked in several places front and rear, I suspect the corrosion under the bead will be severe as well. The forks have mild corrosion at the top like most aging chrome and will stay as they are this time around with just a service.
The engine is getting a NOS crank assembly, new clutch plates, new piston and ring plus all the usual gaskets seals and bearings. I have glass bead blasted the top end to remove all the flakey crud and the engine will get a new coat of satin black.
I found it languishing away around the side of a friends house and rescued it. I couldnt believe the way it loóked and that just a few days of replacing nuts and bolts and a good lube up, she fired straight up and ran so crisp and clean. A real diamond in the rough as they say. Super satisfying to revive as it is a little rocket.
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i am blasting and painting at home using soda from Super cheap and my blasting cabinet from Bunnings.
How does this work out for you mate? I have a similar cabinet and use glass bead, been wanting to try soda but didn't think it would work with the normal blast gun and siphon, are you changing nozzles?
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Hi Jim, i haven't used it yet. I will let you know how it goes as i will be firing it up next week.
Rocketfrog. Good to see another bike resurrected. YZ100's are bullet proof and the class seems to be taking off again. Lot of people doing a lot of hop ups to them in the states and they are flying.
I have a 83' yZ125 resto going at the moment. Its still on the boat from Carolina but i have been busy get things ready and i have made a website with lots of info on it here... http://yz125k.weebly.com/ (http://yz125k.weebly.com/) Good luck with your build
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I have seen your plans for the YZ125, very nice.
I too rode one of those back in the day, after the J (which I loved because it was my first 125 MXer) the K was well sorted and went like scalded cat, there was no looking back - chalk and cheese.
The previous owner had performed what I believe to be the Boyesen mod to the intake which involved drilling 2 holes from the intake tract into the transfer ports. Unfortunately one hole broke through the casting in the corner adjacent the right rear barrel stud/nut and was filled with JB weld or the such.
I threaded and plugged the holes to make the repair and return the barrel to the stock configuration. I noticed a slight drop in HP but was content that the repair was a better option fearing filler might leak and cause reliability issues.