OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: ty4 on March 05, 2014, 08:11:08 pm
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where to start, the bike had a dead CDI unit when i got it so i replaced it with an unknown suzuki unit ( the sticker was rubbed off).
couple of kicks and away we go..actually sounds quite good...then it went down hill quick with the sound of a plug fouling..simple fix, new plug...what i have now is a bike that kicks back at very slow kicking speed and wont fire at all at normal kicking speed.... WTF
checked the flywheel key and the usual stuff...there is a bit of movement in the l/h main but not that bad....i can't have had two 40 year old bikes in a row enter the shed with bad pulser coils.........................can i ??
tony
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Do you know anything of the history of the bike?
I suggest finding a TM125 CDI as I believe different models have differing ignition curves. I ran a TS185 CDI on mine and it ran ok down low but didn't want to rev
I had kick back dramas with mine and it wouldn't run right. It turned out it was a Honda piston I was using which was giving too much compression. It would run with the ignition retarded but these bikes seem to have fairly weak kick start gears and I ended up replacing two of them. And Suzuki in their infinite wisdom put the kick start gears inside the main cases
Is the ignition backing plate in the centre of the adjusting slots?
I sent my complete ignition to Betta-bikes and had it tested. It came back ok and at least (in my case) gave me another direction to look
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Tony, check the wiring insulation isn't cracked or wires bared somewhere in the loom..sounds to me like it maybe an earthing issue. Disconnect the kill switch will also eliminate a problem there and make sure the ignition coil is well grounded to the frame.
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Why do you guys put up with electics that are 40 years old and still expect them to work like new. Put a new PVL on it, as little as $200 on ebay, get a proformance gain and watch the other guys in the pits pushing there bikes.
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Slackwell..can you direct me to the seller of the $200 pvl ignitions?
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Slackwell..can you direct me to the seller of the $200 pvl ignitions?
All the ones I found were $4-500, keen on $200 though
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There out there on ebay , They do come with the need to bore the flywheel yourself. Another forum member put me onto a seller who has them. I look back thou my ebay history when I get a chance.
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thanks guys.. i just put a new piston and rings in it ..non genuine and it does have good comp for a 125..tried all the way from centre of backing plate holes to full retard...no differance...Oh and i know nothing of the history of the bike , other than it was cheap and every thing needs repair ::)
all the basics are already done Doc..thinking of replacing the wires down to the coils..but they test OK
almost every bike that has entered my shed has had a 30 to 40 year old ignition and worked fine ..wether points or CDI..guess the odds have caught up with me
thanks again
tony
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http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/dmon-parts?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754
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at $726.55 i think i'll pass
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Open at top of page ....items forsale ;)
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PVL-Ignition-3-Race-Ignition-Honda-KTM-universal-MX-Racing-Speedway-Yamaha/300607628905?_trksid=p2046732.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5289009776305878068%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D300607628905%26 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PVL-Ignition-3-Race-Ignition-Honda-KTM-universal-MX-Racing-Speedway-Yamaha/300607628905?_trksid=p2046732.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5289009776305878068%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D300607628905%26)
mmmm..would need an adapter plate and rotor taper machined but still not a bad price.
Can't speak for others but personally I've rarely had an issue with the stock originals ;)
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The ignition curve in that CDI is complete shit, it only has +3 deg then only -2deg.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-YZ80-YZ-80-IGNITION-COIL-CDI-WIRING-STATOR-FLY-WHEEL-93-95-96-97-98-99-01-/161239064350?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258a98df1e&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Yamaha-YZ85-YZ-80-IGNITION-COIL-CDI-WIRING-STATOR-FLY-WHEEL-93-98-99-01-/171251382514?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27df60b8f2&vxp=mtr
Much better and cheaper option.
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One of my TM125 motors has a YZ80J ignition fittted.
It required some work, an adaptor plate to take up the difference in diameter and I had to bore the taper in the rotor to suit the Suzuki crank. it's an iternal rotor type like the TM rather than the one's in Lozza's post.
The bike starts very easily, idles smoothly and runs fine into the mid range. It looks like it needs some jetting adjustments but I'm having trouble finding the time to do it.
And the ignition came courtesy of Lozza, thank you
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No problems Brent :D Everyone moved away from internal rotors to generate more Watts for the ignition. The J ignition made really good HP on anything it was fitted on.
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seemed to have fixed the problem...loosened the trigger coil and shimmed it to create an even air gap..no more kick back
after so much kicking the kickstarter shaft is now slipping internaly so i cant get a decent throw of the kicker....AAARRRGH ;D ;D ;D
cheers
tony
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Your next adventure (?) is to find out if it's the pawl in the ratchet, they do wear, or a broken kick start idler gear.
I've broken two kick start idler gears from kick backs
If it's just the pawl you can bump start it.
If it's a few teeth off the kick start idler gear you can still bump start it BUT there's a very good chance the idler gear may end up tooth to tooth with the clutch gear or the kick start gear in which case something has to give.
I'd expect to see a broken centre case.
If you are still running the oil injection you may lose drive to the oil pump as it runs through these gears
If it was mine, and this is what I did, I'd be splitting the cases to check and replace the kick start idler gear and kick start pawl while it's apart
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at least it's only a cheap part to replace if it's just the pawls ;D
never mind the pain in the arse job it is ::)
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Even the kick start idler gear is only about $55, or the last one I got was.
I think it's worth replacing both while it's apart
And pain in the arse job is right eh Doc?
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just fix the kicker i said
leave it alone i said
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt18/ty4album/SAM_0603.jpg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/ty4album/media/SAM_0603.jpg.html)
here we go again ::)
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What did you find?
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a jigsaw puzzle because i seperated the cases from the right hand side and a very round kicker pawl
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I like it!! ;D
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just fix the kicker i said
leave it alone i said
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt18/ty4album/SAM_0603.jpg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/ty4album/media/SAM_0603.jpg.html)
here we go again ::)
;) :) :-X
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you will have to reco that shocker to match the rest! 8) ;D
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Nice work ty !!
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a change of colour
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt18/ty4album/SAM_0604.jpg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/ty4album/media/SAM_0604.jpg.html)
cheers
tony