OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => General Discussion => Topic started by: vmxrider on August 31, 2013, 10:57:12 am
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I always used cheap engine oil, is there any real advantage in the expensive sticky stuff which seems to make the filter harder to clean? I usually clean the filter in truck wash for a while then rinse in warm water and let dry for a few days before oiling.
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A lot more to cleaning a filter than just a quick tub. Next time give it a nice hot soapy wash, then a warm rinse. Drain your bucket and rinse it, then give it another hot soapy wash....then run your finger around the bottom of the bucket, tilting it to one side.
You might be amazed how much grit is there. We wash ours up to 8 times to get rid of it because that's the grit that goes through and into your carby and then into your cylinder, which then sandblasts your piston and chews out your crank.
My point is....clean your filters well, use good tacky oil and NEVER WRING out the filter, it stretches the pores and opens them up to let grit through. Just squeeze it into a ball and press the water out then let it dry naturally.
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I use and recycle mineral turps, then use truckwash...
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whats the best filter oil to use water based or mineral
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Bel ray filter oil is the ONLY oil to use.
we had a pony xpress back in the drought and after the practise lap, the event was cancelled due to the dusty conditions. it was unbelievably dusty.
Ol mate had a bike shop and he had 6 bikes come in needing bore piston work after that 1 lap. he personally had 3 bikes out doing set up and they then rode the practise lap.
the scrubbed bikes did not use Belray oil while all his bikes and many others using Belray survived.
it was a pretty clear test of the oil and ive used nothing but since.
I clean the filters in petrol, with a double rinse then every so often a big soapy wash and rinse under the tap to get out the sticky bits of crap.
get a big set of elbow length rubber work gloves and make sure plenty of oil is squeezed through the filter and then rub a good dollop of grease around the rim to get a good seal "arf arf"
Another story... bloke came in needing a rebore on his near new ts 200. "how do you clean the filter mate?" he was asked..... "wash it in petrol" he says...."then what oil do you use??"..... ol mate says "Oil?" what oil....
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And if you cant get all the grit out of the filter after washing it for the umpteenth time
throw it away and buy a new one.
Average filter price would be around $35.
Average rebuild for a twostroke ??
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"Average rebuild for a two stroke"
That depends whether it is a ground up resto or race ready rebuild ;D
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back in the DT1--race kit days [1968] we used filtron elements on the original filter cage, was good too & i just used EP90 oil. Probably why the bike smelt like a Diff leaking on an exhaust!!. Used that probably because i thought it was thicker & less likely to run off or be sucked out & never ever had a problem--talking right through the 465G days & later. In saying that, oiling it up during the week meant a lot had found its way to the lower part which meant i was overdoing it in the first place. Used Bell Ray once in the 465 & sucked it dry during a long race & DUST AHHH--new rings as could feel the lack of sharpness late in the race & feel it on the kick start too. In hind sight [& this new fangled oil] i think i oiled that one up at the meeting just before the race, & in hindsight the bellray smelt volatile, so not having time to dry off & solidify to cling on etc meant it just got sucked out in double quick time. Was back to the diff oil after that.
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meant to say i mostly just used petrol & washed it a till no more settling in the bowl then dry off with the compressor [if running out of time]. Shouldn't say---ok then, no petrol for the mower after one filter clean so strained it through a rag &--cant tell ya!!. & won't mention the 6 litres of good looking oil out of an oil collumn heater i dumped--working perfect in the 490 forks as we speak. Anyway, back to filters, i recall a guy [not me this time] with a yz250j back in the day & washed & oiled his filter after every race on this dusty day. Never watched how he did it but saw the results at work the next week & had to skip first over & go to 0.5mm [20 thou] rebore to clean up. Must've been barely dragging itself along at end of the day. Bottom end can't have been good either.
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how come my first post up there has turned out 'green' in colour!! pretty?
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Kero then hot soapy water for me, then any good quality filter oil,I am using Belray at the moment, 22 F'ing $ a bottle :o,must have gold flakes in it ;)
I would never use petrol to wash a filter,In my experience i have found it can make them swell up, melt the glue & generally roots them,but if you guys who are using it are having no probs then go for it :)
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Yep ,i think petrol is too Harsh and the filter can deform, Turps really does dilute the filter oil instantly. Good cheap and fast!
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Try notoil
It's unreal
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I give my filters a thorough clean with Kero. Leave them out to dry then use Silkolene foam filter oil. Squeeze the oil out so they are moist and not dripping. Sometimes have prepared them a week before race day and have never found them to be dry.
Have not washed them in soapy water but might try it next time, might get rid of that horrible Kero smell.
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like mudguard - clean and then leave sit until next meeting my filters (x2 - YZB) in Silkolene - haven't had a drama - but for 2 day meets carry a spare pair and grease the face heavily when installing.
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Try notoil
It's unreal
Been using the No-Toil stuff last 3 years before that it was the Truck wash in warm
soapy water a few times over and always leave the filter out for a day or two too dry out and use
Motul filter oil.
Never use petrol as it wrecks them and opens up the pores in the filter.
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ive been using petrol for years without an issue. rings only ever replaced at service or later if still in spec so no real dramas. I do replace the filters evry couple of years
I do like the idea of Kero as its a better smell and washes out better than peterhol specially now its that ulp poo. don't like it at all. Could see that stuff destroying foam that's for sure.
note that a quickly washed and oiled filter can dilute the oil and make it run to the bottom of the filter if there is a bit of solvent still in the foam. its a real trap to wring and flick dry the filter then oil it... it can stuff the oil
gear box oil Christ that must have stunk to high heaven ;D :D
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The poor little motor having to breathe that gearbox oil smell LOL
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yeah, ep90 gearbox/diff oil, anyone following me usually knew who it was they were behind!!. I must say also that i did use it in my DT1 gearbox as customers racing them had the old 'rounded off dogs' problem after 'not very long' so thought i'd give mine every chance & my theory being if it's good enough for differentials & car gearboxes it can only help my fragile DT box. Made the clutch hang on when cold but no problem after that---Till third gear big wheel broke into three bits & came out the bottom & fkd it [dogs were ok haha]--that was the "68/69 coarse tooth box with the selector fitting around the drum totally encompassing it for 4th/5th gear. Was the only good drum i had for a re-build once & on a dummy assembly to check the gear engagement [using the normal later 3 separate selectors] i found she went 1-2-3-5-4 as the drum encompassing selector pin engages 180 degrease around the other side & the drum tracks are machined accordingly.
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Another good reason for using proper filter oil is it is supposed to be flame retardent,not really a concern for 2T owners but 4T's can backfire through the carb & set the filter alight,When i was a wee lad i purchased a pod unifilter for my XR75,I asked the salesman should i also buy the whiz bang filter oil,Nah he said, just use motor oil,famous last words >:(,one day whilst attempting to bump start the bike (broken kicker,kid,no dosh to fix) it backfired & the Pod burst into flames,no worries i thought,grabbed the filter to pull it off & the carb came off too,you can guess what happened next,A raging F***ing inferno ensued,the result one BBQ'ed XR from the front of the seat forwards,bawled my eyes out for days :'(,I have seen modern 4T's with the filter singed on the inside from backfires,probably saved by proper filter oil ;)
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that's a good point i'd never thought off. We had a few quads at work that had caught fire back into the filter. Think it was Yamaha quads mostly. Think suzuki's [maybe yams] have a gauze after the filter, never thought what it was for apart from a bit of extra filtration but could it be as a flame retardant/stopper thingy. Once again not sure if yam or suz [maybe kawy] quads used to fire once after turning ign off, just as it rolled over it's last--maybe with both valves open, must fire every lap with a crank pulser as opposed to a cam driven one--something like that. The old 3 wheeler YTM200's [if the carb flooded] would empty it into the crancase oil via the breather hose & then you'd be chasing an over-rich idle, like choke was on. Took a bit of head scratching to diagnose the first one but were ready for it after that. Think most quads are capable of that where breathers etc are made to re-cycle fumes--seen it on a big bear too.
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Not sure about the recycling of the turps (never done it) goes but Oldzman is on the money when it comes to using Turps to wash out filters, there is nothing better. And most importantly no damage to filter. A couple of hits with warm soapy water to finish the job and walaar.