OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: DCPlasticsguy on August 29, 2013, 05:39:33 am
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Will the scissor clutch assembly for a 1974 YZ 250 manufactured by Trimac Machining work on a DT1 250?
ebay # 321151878293
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Yes,it will work fine !!!!
Bill Davis Texas Vintage Racing Club
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It does Don but you might like this one a bit better.....I've got both. I'm sure Davy has been in touch already but if not....PM Davy Crocket on here for details.
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/clutchcover_zpsf81fcd22.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/clutchcover_zpsf81fcd22.jpg.html)
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Thanks for putting the pickie up Firko, I must say it looks way better than that dodgy Kiwi looking Kiwi one....I could be biased about the Aussie made one though. ;D
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Thanks for putting the pickie up Firko, I must say it looks way better than that dodgy Kiwi looking Kiwi one....I could be biased about the Aussie made one though. ;D
LOL that's funny John ;D
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Here's the Crocket Racing Conglomerate brand cover on my RT1 Cheney. They're beautifully made and work a treat.
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/002_zps9189a152.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/002_zps9189a152.jpg.html)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/003_zpse40691a4.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/003_zpse40691a4.jpg.html)
Below: Here's the Kiwi made Trimac actuator on my DT1 Ratbike project*. It's an ugly bit of gear but so's the bike it's on and its owner ;D. As fugly as it is it's beautifully made and works very well. Compared to the original setup, both of these are lightyears better but the Crocket setup is far nicer looking, blending in with the engines design parameters.
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/005_zps575390cc.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/005_zps575390cc.jpg.html)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/008_zps60712bac.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/008_zps60712bac.jpg.html)
*The Ratbike Project: I bought Nathans DT1 racer over a year ago with the intentions of stripping it for the sum of its parts for other projects. After a year of my not using one part off the bike, I decided a few weeks ago to set it up for the the pre 70 class at the coming Classic Nats. In a word, the bike's pretty damn ugly and seeing that all my other bikes are on the bling side of the fence, this little gem will be a little on the 'rough' side in appearance while still being a competitive racer. I inherited a pretty good bike from Nathan and have only changed a few things to make it even more competitive.
I'll post some photos tomorrow or Saturday. (before some comedian says something, the rusty chain is being replaced)
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What's that ignition off Firko?. By the way--plenty of life left in that chain!!
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I was just about to ask the same . Iain
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The ignition's PVL fellas.
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Firko, does that bike run better with the carb mounted directly onto the cylinder? I thought about bolting on the mikuni flange directly to the cylinder like that; then using my own custom airbox assembly. However, I was told without the intake spacer, it may hurt the power.
The Trimac actuator is about $220 USD. The Davey Crocket is about $400 to my door. Just trying to decide if I care about the looks of it that much, lol. I've heard both work great.
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I have one of the DC ones and can also say they make a huge difference to my YZB - another advantage they have is fixing the MA sprocket cover requirement for Nats etc.
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Firko, does that bike run better with the carb mounted directly onto the cylinder?
Because they're all newly finished projects I've only run the Cheney RT1 and flat tracker briefly and have never started the DT1 so I can't relate true life experience for any of those bikes but on my previous DT1 from Hell I ran a 34mm Amal on methanol directly bolted to the cylinder using a TM400 Suzuki rubber inlet manifold (similar to what's on the RT1 above) and the bike had copious power all through the range. The DT1 rat bike doesn't use a fibre block and has the flange mount Mikuni bolted directly to the cylinder. It was built and raced by Nathan on this forum and I recall the bike performing well. Perhaps he can enlarge on the subject.
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That's handy to know as i,m building up a piston port 250 motor at the moment (thanks to Ian cheers) it has the spacer for the carb but do they go better with the rubber flange bolted direct or should I keep the spacer also have the bigger rt360 flanged carb to go on or is it to big cheers Andrew
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My DT1 runs a rubber flange from the Aust mikuni dealer never had any probs . the early DT's and RT's had different lengths the DT1mx was shorter than the DT trail version . It was a long time ago but I think the shorter spacer gave a bit more up top at the expense of bottom end . Not shore any more , grey matter going off . Iain
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as i had some problems with my original push leverrecently i´m really interested in these things..
does the Crocket Racing cover use the original push lever? does somebody have a picture from the inside? where can i buy one?
same for the trimac, are they sold anywhere?
thanks a lot.
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The Crocket one is available, made here in Australia, the whole assembly is new, you don't use anything off the original setup except the cable connector and the return spring and pin....way better set up, way lighter clutch pull and the clutch lever has a modern feel to it. The push lever starts out life as a NOS TX650 one, has the lever cut off, a new 20mm longer one is tig welded on then it is re-zinced. The TX push lever is a 4 helix design, it's also metal.... not like the shit plastic 3 helix on the std DT1/YZA/B style that are always cracked even when you buy a NOS one for a hundred or so dollars.. A new female helix is CNC'd out of a special self lubricating plastic and bolts into the housing. I have 4 left at the moment if you want one. You can PM me or ring 0412 747 729, cheers John.