OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: Dono113 on June 11, 2013, 11:32:54 am
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Have replaced my old ball bearing race with a aftermarket tapered bearing kit and when races are seated I get play, even tighten right up start to give me the sh#ts.
Any ideas, go back to old ball style ??
Cheers
Bret
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Hi Bret,
I have seen this in the past on some of my own early 1980's full floaters (which all take the same steering stem excluding RM 80's- RM 125-RM 500) with these tapered kits where you need to to have the steering stem machined to allow the bearing to seat in the correct place.Otherwise the bearing doesnt sit low enough on the stem.This is not explained in most of the kits and is a real pain in the arse.
I think you will find this is the issue you have mate.
Cheers
Craig
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B I N G O and bingo was it's name exactly what is the problem Craig, just didn't know if any one else had the same problem or I was on my pat malone.
Cheers
Bret
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Happened to me a few years ago with a RM 250 T "ALL BALLS kit"
It you know some one with a lathe it's an easy fix, It can be done with the triples still in place if you have enough bed clearance. By putting a dead centre in the chuck and live centre at the other end. Or press it out.
Top shaft is marked showing how much is needed to be machined off .....bottom is the finished article.
Hope this helps
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/360.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/mutchoo/media/360.jpg.html)
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Ditto, same problem, on a RM250T, same solution... worth the effort though.
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9 RM's in the garage and another 3 that have been in my possession at some point and all have had the "All Balls" treatment. From my experience, this is the most efficient way of doing the task.
1. Grab a heat gun and apply liberal amount of heat to the tripple clamp. (No oxy! >:()
2. Press the steerer tube out of the lower clamp.
3. Machine the steerer tube down a further 5mm
4. Very important that the step left in the steerer tube is radiused or your setting yourself up for disaster!
5. With the tube still in the lathe give the lower bearing surface a super fine linish but keep away from the triple clamp section. Remember this area was never designed to have a taper roller fitted and the surface was never prepped for such. (If it had ball bearings originally)
5. Grab the heat gun again and heat up the lower clamp and press the steerer back in.
6. Heat the lower bearing inner and press the lower bearing on.
From Experience
Suzuki weld the nut into the top of the steerer tube which makes it difficult to get a true centre. As OLDFART explained you'll need a decent lathe with bed clearance to machine with the lower clamp in place, can be difficult if all you've got is mates with hobby size lathes. I've seen two steerer tubes on zooks snap at the step on the newly machined surface, add a radius and you won't have a drama. Use heat (no oxy!) as I've seen so many bearings "pick up" on shafts that weren't meant to have taper roller from production. A bit of heat swells the bearing enough that this no longer becomes and issue.
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pulled it apart last night marked up shaft and going to drop it off at the local engineering shop this arvo, at least I have forsight now, a big thanks fellas for proving my sanity is still in tack and thanks for all the great advice
Cheers
Bret
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4. Very important that the step left in the steerer tube is radiused or your setting yourself up for disaster!
Good points. Is the radius on the outside or inside or both ? Do you have a picture ?
I remember years ago a top notice suspension company was trying to remove my steering stem from my KLR650. The 30 tonne something press was near its limit when with a terrifying bang the shaft separated. No heat was used. Probably would have made the job easier if he used heat. Very good point.
Thanks for posting.
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Followed your instructions and pressto all is good in the house of the 500 I have tapered roller steering bearings installed!
Thanks Bahnzy ;D