OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: jimson on August 13, 2007, 11:11:11 pm
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Pokey just want a update on your TS185 project got any pics
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Mate.. had a huge pc crash and lost the freekin lot. Luckily a few pics survive in photobucket of the path from wasp nest to ... 8)
Have been damn busy lately so havnt had a chance to play with her for awhile but she is coming along.
The "Institute" has my barrel and soon when i pull my finger out some other parts to get her humping.
Frame paint seat wheels controls guards and brakes are all taken care of . Just need the engine and gearbox sorting and a decent pipe and she will be scaring the crap out of me and i dare say a lot of pre75 250's
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/pokeit1st/Img_0495.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c274/pokeit1st/ts.jpg)
shooot.. bugger all difference really ;D
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I scored one a couple of months ago and the bloke reckons its running a early HONDA CR down pipe and from what it looks like he's telling the truth it looks like it was meant to be.
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That pipe could well fit. , unsure how she would go though . My pipe i believe will be an "Institute" derived one seeing as they shall have all the specs to tune for.
I remember a riding buddy changing the pipe on his cr125 one day and we just matched it to the 185 and yeah it did look like it would do the job.. never got around to bolting it up.
i have the Torque pipe she came with but thats an enduro pipe and an underslung custom job is what she will be wearing on the track most likely early 2008 at this rate .. Hows the Indian coming along?
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Hey the side covers look real trick ....looking good , is that the finished colour
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Yeah mate. Silver be her colour. well Holden platinum .
I thought about doing the yellow but since Phlolina yellow paint be one of those legends passed down by bench racers long since passed to the chequered flag in the sky and since the 185 never came in yellow she scored another coat of Silver.
Side covers are modified repro glass Falk units ala mid 70's Maico. as is the rear guard. front guard will be Yamaha DT200L as it has the correct bend and not a lot of rear over hang so the engine gets air and it doesnt foul on anything.
TM Triples/ Rm80 tubes /185 legs /Tm125 rims /185 hubs/ pokey airbox and seat base/ magura controls /CR250 shocks which may get swapped out in favour of the konis after they get rebuilt.. Oil tank is inside the airbox and yes the seat still hinges for ease of access to filter CDI and oil.
and No bloody stickers , its Vintage after all 8)
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pokey i got a stiffy... ;)
they side covers part of the seat ? like a one peice ?
whats the black thing in the back ?
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Nope freaky they be just sidecovers. was toying of making a full La de da kit for her but figured she will only toss me up the paddock and break something so she scored normal stuff.
The black thang is a KL with a black bit on the tank, I try hard not to look at the bitch oif a thing, why kawasaki thought it good to change heads and cams every freekin year and nothin else confounds me
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Hey pokey, heres a breakdown of my TS/TM185 project gearbox
(YES!! you inspired it ;D ;D)
RM125S straight-cut primary and basket 18t-61t (19t-61t stock185)
stock 185 input and output shafts
with 1st drive (14t stock shaft)
2nd drive (17t from tm/rm125 (16t stock185))
3rd drive (20t stock 185)
4th drive (22t from tm/rm125 (23t stock185))
5th drive (25t stock 185)
1st driven (30t from tm/rm125(33t stock 185))
2nd driven (27t from tm/rm125(29t stock 185))
3rd driven (25t stock 185)
4th driven (23t stock 185)
5th driven (21t from tm/rm125(20t stock 185))
This is what is going into my bottom end as the RM basket gets 2 extra plates and still fits inside the clutch cover, which is a 1976
type that looks the same as the TM ones. The engine is going into a TM 125 chassis that I picked up at the swapmeet this year
I have good o.e.m forks, tank, seat, wheels and a RM125S ignition to go in it, I'll make my own pipe and only mildly port the cylinder. I will also shave a few mm of the bottom of the piston skirt to increase the intake port timing (you have to take 5mm of the bottom of ts125 pistons to use them in TM125's) so I will start small and work my way up from there. I'll post some pics when I have more than a pile of bits to take pictures of.
I intend my TS/TM to look as close to stock as possible in the hope no one will notice :D :D :D
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notice ? what you passing us :O)
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Like a lady with a deep voice, it might look the goods but it don't sound right?! ;)
(An IT175G/H top end on a YZ125G is another "hang on that don't sound right" bike too)
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i knew a lady with a deep voice once but she moved to melb.
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Yes Pokey sounds right for the little Indian as well early 2008 it would be nice to have a bike that works with hernia opps and a shed being built for more space out the backyard and now the wife wants to go back to England to see the first new grandchild. Time and money mate
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Sounds like you have got it sorted not to bad Cyclegod. do check out 2nd gear though as it will spin on the shaft.. well will in a stock 185 .
Thats a good headsup of the Clutch and cog sizings mate as I have been toying with the idea of putting the 76 sidecover on her . Piston should only require a poofteenth taken from the inlet if your staying stock. about 1mm if that.
intake port should measure 45mm wide and base is 92mm from top of the sleeve with a height of 20.5mm
just cleaning up the intake and putting a decent carby on it so she breathes makes a hell of a difference.
My barrel wont be quite that umm mild ;D
Lookin forward to the pics mate
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Aint it the way jimson...women and babies . if we could only get them interested in dirt bikes life would be way sweeter for us .
Hmmm pommie land does have some nice bits ive noticed so do make sure you take a big bag ;D
Will be good to see something a bit different circulating the tracks like the Indian instead of the normal flood of japanese machines. I hope your taking it slow after the Op and just ease into it mate . It will all work when its ready to be ready is my theory on life.
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Pokey I would love to take a big bag with me mate but I'm the dickhead staying home paying the bills while the wife and daughter are having fun in pommy land.And yes it will be good to see the Indian out there racing the jap bikes you will tell straight away which one it is it will be at the tail end of the race.After I've worked on it I'll be pushing it with my luck.
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cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.Here's why
1) It's the thrust side of the piston and doing this just wears the bore faster.By allowing more rock over TDC
2) Increasing inlet duration by trimming the skirt doesn't do anything to the area of the port and port area has a bigger influence on inlet than timing.You can go very wide with the bridged inlet to,and leave a radius on the leading edge of the bridge knife edges don't work.
If the skirt must be trimmed to miss the crank take the barest minimum off.
Inlet open timing I would stick to about 90-95Deg BTDC to give about 180-190 duration this is a good compromise between low and top end power.CR's run over 200deg on the inlet and load up something shocking, when out of band.
TM 125's only have 2 transfers so some tricks have to be employed to lift the delivery ratio(send me a PM about that one).With any sort of engine development it must be matched to the gearbox which I'm pleased to say looks excellent,after normalising the ratios,tis indeed a close one.The TM T port is VERY hard on rings, running a single ring pegged at the rear will overcome the T ports short comings a fair bit.
When I do pokey's barrel you can have the pipe spec if you want.
Have fun
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cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.Here's why
1) It's the thrust side of the piston and doing this just wears the bore faster.By allowing more rock over TDC
2) Increasing inlet duration by trimming the skirt doesn't do anything to the area of the port and port area has a bigger influence on inlet than timing.You can go very wide with the bridged inlet to,and leave a radius on the leading edge of the bridge knife edges don't work.
If the skirt must be trimmed to miss the crank take the barest minimum off.
Inlet open timing I would stick to about 90-95Deg BTDC to give about 180-190 duration this is a good compromise between low and top end power.CR's run over 200deg on the inlet and load up something shocking, when out of band.
TM 125's only have 2 transfers so some tricks have to be employed to lift the delivery ratio(send me a PM about that one).With any sort of engine development it must be matched to the gearbox which I'm pleased to say looks excellent,after normalising the ratios,tis indeed a close one.The TM T port is VERY hard on rings, running a single ring pegged at the rear will overcome the T ports short comings a fair bit.
When I do pokey's barrel you can have the pipe spec if you want.
Have fun
The pipe spec would be very handy, thank you. 180 degrees of inlet timing was what I had planned on to start with if it could be achieved by widening and lowering the inlet port without having to pare off a mm or 2 from the piston skirt ( I have a one ring vintage wiseco with the ring peg at the rear )
I only plan on using a new 30mm carb with an adaptor/spacer plate setup similar to the RM125S, which will still fit into the stock airbox, to supply the mixture.
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I stuffed that up a bit the 185 has only a single exhaust window the TM 125 has the dreaded T port.There will be plenty of work to do on the exhaust side as well.With the inlet width about 3mm from the edge of the transfer cut aways in the piston will be the maximum you can go.
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cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.
Otherwsie standard DT125 goes a lot harder with a YZ125 piston in it? Comp ratio between pistons is apparently identical, only real difference is YZ piston has a much shorter skirt... What am I missing? PP vs reed?
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That DT/YZ piston swap is on a reed engine is it not? Have you weighed both?
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Hey pokey, I found some cheap TS185 gasket sets...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-TS185-TS-185-TS-185-Complete-Gasket-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ017QQitemZ270155209900QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
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Super good Condition! ;D
I love chinglish
Not a bad price either cyclegod. I have two sets already just cause i can but a third may come in handy. Its only missing the magneto side.
i usually cut my own as its not that much of a drama , only ones I use are head gaskets but sometimes we do get lazy or in a hurry.
Is a lot of good parts and many NOS parts in Thailand and malaysia all at realistic pricings.
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Hey Pokey
What brand of paint did you use on the engine - was it out of a spray can? It looks great.
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Hey mate. the engine was de wasp nested in an alloy wash bath for two days then a good scrub with a stiff nylon brush and dings filled with two part epoxy clay. A bit of wet N dry to smooth any inperfections . Then she scored a few coats of Brake caliper paint and baked under the QLD sun for a few days before touching them.
Septone I believe was the brand from Super Cheap. The silver which I also used on the hubs did come up a treat but im not happy with the black. If you look carefully you will see it has a red tone to it and that wasnt my aim so those parts will be getting stripped again and painted with VHT or something thats more "Black".
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Bring em around and I'll blast them for you, ;D
Hey get down to our favorite shop as I spotted a TS 185 bottom end complete in the mini skip out back west bin south corner ;)
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Hey Pokey,
Any chance you let us in on the epoxy clay secret??? Looks to be the go - the engine looks really good. The whole bike looks great - a credit to you. I know how much effort it takes to even get that far.
I know I should be over in "resto tips", but I thought I would at least get your attention here.
Cheers
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Is no secret YZ250H, the good Doctor put me onto it for repairing damaged barrel fins.
That stuff you get from autoshops thats two part . Is a brand call Selley's knead it you may know of.. almost the same stuff.
That stuff works okay but by far the best for hardness and strength and fine texture is Milliput.heat resistant up to 130°C.
. Its a modelers product and is fair bit stronger than all the others ive tried. another modelling product is called Greenstuff. its also an excellent product and stickier .. cept its green and i thought it may show thru the paint .
Can even drill and tap the product after it cures and feels like its ceramic. .
http://www.milliput.co.uk/home.htm
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Heres the stuff...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Milliput-Silver-Grey-WORLDWIDE-AUTHORISED-DEALER_W0QQitemZ220145559785QQihZ012QQcategoryZ56363QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem