OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: Marc.com on November 27, 2012, 07:43:37 am
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Hi does anyone have the original article on the White Brothers hotrod DR400T on PDF.
Just bought my DR400 White Bros swingarm to put under the Xmas tree. ;D
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Good luck with that mate,it will need some serious porting to carry you at full steam.
Ps I think I will have a magazine with an article on that beast,come to Taupo and I will give it to you.
Or are you waxing your bikini line?
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I had the article but the magazine has gone missing. Dirt Bike put RM38s on the front, bored out the triples, shoved on the swing arm and 16.5" shocks, put a 36mm mikuni on + WB cam with [protec springs?],
ground off the intake weir and put a WB420 high comp piston in , junked the exhaust and installed a megaphone but I can't remember what they did with the airbox, I think they dumped it for a K&N.[previously they'd junked the snorkel] That was about it. They did say it was an excellent playbike as standard and were very happy with the subsequent bolt on mods. They ran down CCMs with it.
Here's some road race tuning info
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=4582.15
Bottom of the page
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Stroker crank is the way to go for the SP/DR engine,
No need for cams or big bore,
Carb and Exhaust are obvious,
Dellorto pumper worked good on them,
Supertrapp 4" balanced it all,
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Ps I think I will have a magazine with an article on that beast,come to Taupo and I will give it to you.
Or are you waxing your bikini line?
Yeah I was planning on a little man scaping that weekend.
Thanks Cloggy I was reading in the wong area, but that Hallman thread gives me some ideas. I am just doing a DR400T with WB swinger and Simons, all I have to do now is pulverise the old swingarm out that has fused in a rigid position.
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I've got one DR set up with later single shock 38s and emulators. With hindsight I would go for the early 38s and keep the DR front wheel [though you can use sleeves to use the early wheel with later fork]
I run the first RM 1978 ally swing arm, which didn't need much altering, 16.5 Falcons and a ProTec mild cam and the 370 carb. I'd use a bigger carb for motocross. One problem is working out what spring rate for the cam as no one stocks springs and keepers. I think R&D have the springs but no keepers. In all honesty the main gains are unplugging the intake and exhaust, the standard cam is good.
SON is right, it really needs stroking. It was in production for such a short time that it didn't get much attention, but it's a really simple and tough engine, simpler than an XT, and the frame is RM derived. Handles well except at low speed when the front end wanders. It's not that good at really high speeds, moves around a bit compared with a KLX, but is ok on a motocross track, it's intuitively predictable. I use mine for welsh forest rallies where you get everything from wet steep mud and scree to flat out grade roads. I keep the carb/airbox to keep it a submarine. It's not uncommon to get 3 or 4 " of rain in a weekend.
I had problems getting heavy enough fork springs and the 400 carb not working as soon as I opened up the airbox intake. If you've got the WB 36 mikuni carb already I'd love to know the specs. Tom White sent them to me some 30 years ago and I've lost them.
RaceTech do the fork springs
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/FRSP-RT%20Fork%20Spring%20List
though I picked up a heavy duty Maico set.
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(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/Wbros_DR400_01.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/Wbros_DR400_02.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/Wbros_DR400_03.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/article_Gall_4T.jpg)
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Geez, I posted the images above at a resolution of "1200 x 1566".
This forum automatically shrunk them down to a whopping "784 x 1024" !!
Just realised it is Photobucket that changes res. Couldnt find the res settings, so switched back to the old interface and found them.
Forum still shrinks them. But if you "Save" images to your computer, they will be higher res and easier to read. :)
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What did Gally ride in that CMC race a HL? it says he came fifth :)
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Wish I knew Smed.
But if I find out I'll get back.
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How sexy is the mega phone/rear guard number plate combo :-*
(http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o82/evo550/xt550white4.jpg)
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Ps I think I will have a magazine with an article on that beast,come to Taupo and I will give it to you.
Or are you waxing your bikini line?
Yeah I was planning on a little man scaping that weekend.
Thanks Cloggy I was reading in the wong area, but that Hallman thread gives me some ideas. I am just doing a DR400T with WB swinger and Simons, all I have to do now is pulverise the old swingarm out that has fused in a rigid position.
Hey Marc dot com,it's probably wise you get your mechanic to remove the swing arm given your agricultural mechanical skills.
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Hey Marc dot com,it's probably wise you get your mechanic to remove the swing arm given your agricultural mechanical skills.
You forget I do have some experience working on farm machinery ;)
Hey I heard you got drunk in Taupo and tried to give Bill a love bite ;)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/IMG_3472-1.jpg)
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What did Gally ride in that CMC race a HL? it says he came fifth :)
Yes HL. I posted some pics a few years ago.
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Marc or was it bill coming on to liz?
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Contrary to speculation, I am not a native of Inglewood like Marc dot com.
Therefore I do not enjoy providing sexual pleasure to other men-whilst I respect the right of others to engage in such behaviour,this is not a path I choose to follow. ;D
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what about the village of the damned (banjo capital of unzud)...lol
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Therefore I do not enjoy providing sexual pleasure to other men-whilst I respect the right of others to engage in such behaviour,this is not a path I choose to follow. ;D
I heard all about your prison fantasy..... gay for the stay was it ;)
Hey found this shitty old box of NOS Suzuki bits, going to whack it on Trademe for $30
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/2.jpg)
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Speaking of shitty,I see that the TMGP is a rusting hulk.
Did your cousin take it for a few motos around Barrett park and then pressure wash it with a sand blaster????
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Yes HL. I posted some pics a few years ago.
Thanks Tahiti.
It would of been interesting to compare lap times of a HL versus a YZ490 around Carlsbad of that era.
I think Gally also rode a TT600 83' setup for Superbikes in a NSW event. The bike was a rocket, but had some problems.
I might still have the article on that race meet.
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what rm bits do you have in your box marcFX
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Hi MXers,
My '80 DR400 has a plastic type plug that covers the camshaft on the left side of the motors head which keeps falling out when im riding and when it does engine oil just spews out. Ive brought a new plug and am going to insert this and see if it fixes the problem. Want to know if anyone has experienced this before...the plug is not retained anyway that i can see except for the friction of the walls of its receiving hole.
Cheers
Alex
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I had a DR500 for 5 or so years ,never had that prob and done a rebuild in that time.
I ran some silcone around it before sticking the pug in, it never came out ;)
I have had TT500s for 20 old years they have the same pug system and I siclcone them in to and never blew out.
my two bobs worth :)
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aehunger
never use sillycone on a 4T engine, reasons being that ecess sillycone comes off and ends up in the oil pump pickup and restricts flow or in honda xl/xr small bores as in 80's to 200's and the sillycone ends up the oil restrictor to the camshaft and ruins a head due to no oil feed. with that said theres better sealants like grey 3 bond that most bike shops sell and use and it does a top job provide your surfaces to be sealed are flat and oil free. as to your plug coming out well if its 31 yrs old then it would have shrunk with age but a new one will sort it out
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Sorry forgot to say the grey shop stuff ;) I didnt mean some old plumers roofing sillycone.
I throught he would of know that ???
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Alex , the cam plug is a metal disc with a very thin coating of rubbber of which gets crushed when the 2 halfs meet .......they are still available new and I replace them each time I do a top end inspection. They are as cheap as chips
While you have the top off check out the cam chain - wear on cam lobs - wear on journals . Set tappits to zero and back them off 1/8 of a turn ;)
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Still use the Grey Three Bond With the new cap.
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I've never replaced the cap, just used a bit of sealer on the old metal one
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Hi All,
Thanks for the tips on the camshaft plug will try and insert at weekend and crank her over. Also wondering if there is anywhere you can get an affordable supertrapp muffler, similar to the one in the Clymer manual, locally in NZ. Seems they are available from states for a hefty price. Ive got a pro circuit type 496 that i could fit but might look ridiculous as its a bit longer than the black supertrapp i was after.
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I had a supertrapp back in the day
It eventually rusted to bits leaving just the discs so a mate made me a copy
I run 8 discs. Anymore than that and it just seems to get louder but I'm using the SP370 carb which is an oval bore 32. I think TT500s are supposed to run 12.
The correct period one should have the single bolt end cap fixing.
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Hi All,
Thanks for the tips on the camshaft plug will try and insert at weekend and crank her over. Also wondering if there is anywhere you can get an affordable supertrapp muffler, similar to the one in the Clymer manual, locally in NZ. Seems they are available from states for a hefty price. Ive got a pro circuit type 496 that i could fit but might look ridiculous as its a bit longer than the black supertrapp i was after.
Never been in love with Supertrap, the exhaust tends to BBQ your rear guard and they are usually hell loud.
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I used a Supertrapp on my bike with the hotted up 400cc SP370 motor and as marcFX said it was loud, melted the rear guard, and fell apart due to vibration three times despite reinforcing various failed bits. It probably would have lasted longer with mild use, but it used to get extended flat-out top gear operation during high speed gravel road riding.
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i call them fall apart traps,they always break the u bolt off then everything goes missing,exhaust springs from the main body to the end cap doesnt work either coz of the hi heat that makes the springs loose tension. ive found a inch bigger inlet/outlet car hot dog the go with sleeving up and down on both ends with a pointed end drilled out baffle the same size as the unsleeved inlet pipe the way to go back in the day and with factory rubber mountings [tt500] they go forever ; ;) ;D
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Hi All,
Thanks for the tips on the camshaft plug will try and insert at weekend and crank her over. Also wondering if there is anywhere you can get an affordable supertrapp muffler, similar to the one in the Clymer manual, locally in NZ. Seems they are available from states for a hefty price. Ive got a pro circuit type 496 that i could fit but might look ridiculous as its a bit longer than the black supertrapp i was after.
Never been in love with Supertrap, the exhaust tends to BBQ your rear guard and they are usually hell loud.
I don't know why you are stressing mate,given you will never ride it.......
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I don't know why you are stressing mate,given you will never ride it.......
be afraid, be very afraid
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/Marcsnewtoy040.jpg)
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Talk is cheap Marcdotcom...... :P
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Got it...could do better than Supertrapp muffler for DR400. Cheers for the heads up will save that cash for more appropriate parts.
The carb I brought my bike with had jet broken off inside and beyond repairs so ive found another the same only slightly larger. Its a Mikuni 36mm with the exact same body as the carb with broken jet which I believe was the stock carb. Does anyone know what the jetting requirements would be for this 36mm carb? Ive just swapped all the old carb internals to the 36mm carb at present.
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If it's a 36mm cam operated carb ( VM ) ..... float levevl shoud be around 25mm ( top of float to top float bowl
Pilot air 2 turns out ... I run around 1 & 3/4
main # 135 Std ...... way too small
Pilot # 15 Std
I have posted on here some place of me building a Pipe for the Dr 400 and a muffler. .
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/DRMexhaustbuild002.jpg)
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(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/DR400mufflerparts001.jpg)
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Thanks for the pointers...the camshaft plug is all sorted and I trashed the 400 for an hour today and no leaks. The carb is definitely a VM type with the cam and I think something is wrong with the choke as I have to prime the bike with a squirt of fuel into the airbox is anyone familiar with this style of carb and what remedies a bloke could try to get the choke sorted?
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I'm Running the same carb .... make sure the air passage is clear - top hole at rear of carb. Blow some air down all of the holes to make sure they are flow freely .
Have you drilled 3 holes in your air box 25mm in dia on the LHS .....
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If it's a 36mm cam operated carb ( VM ) ..... float levevl shoud be around 25mm ( top of float to top float bowl
Pilot air 2 turns out ... I run around 1 & 3/4
main # 135 Std ...... way too small
Pilot # 15 Std
I have posted on here some place of me building a Pipe for the Dr 400 and a muffler. .
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/DRMexhaustbuild002.jpg)
Ummm,
Are you going to move the oil filler cap ?
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as stew said drill some holes in the air box to get it to breath. When i built the dr in VMX mag i fluked the pipe and muffler kit on evil bay for about $60 US they had 2 of them and only 2 people put a bid on them
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Hi Racers,
Not running the bike with air filter or airbox top at all presently so dont believe air would be the problem. Its fuel and i suspect a fault with the assembly that the choke lever operates.Ive got the carb i fitted prior to the 36mm so might swap out this assembly as a trial. Do you jokers know how this choke style set up works im only familar with the butterfly valve type.
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If you've got the oval bore carb it should be 33 for the 400 and 32 for the 370. The carb bodies are different sizes so it's not just a matter of a bigger throat.
I think the USA DR500 had a similar carb of about 35mm. The 33 has a single taper needle which I never got to work with a modded airbox; so I use the 32 which has a 370 specific twin taper needle exclusive to that model and not available as an aftermarket part; and no longer available from Suzuki either.
Whatever, you may have to change the idle jet, needle position and main jet to compensate for no airbox.
If you have a round venturi I'm pretty sure it's not a standard carb
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ive sold a few std 34mm tt500 carbs to sp370 owners as there a bolt replacement and everyone loved the extra go,a sr500 pumper might work well aswell
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The DR500 1983 I had, (usa model alloy swing arm etc)
It had a 40mm standard carb butterfly job, I changed it to 38mm flat slide went heaps better,
but I did try one of my TT500 carbs on it before I got the flat slide it went well.
I got a stainless header pipe made for mine ,larger than standard I think it was 1 and half inch or 1 and three quarter.
I would post some pics up but dont know how.
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Evo ...Pic is deceiving, as there is 25mm clearance ;)
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Hi there,
Carb is a VM for sure and will have to take a look if its possible but lifting the needle a notch would be worth a try as bike idles o.k and has low range power but mid range is rubbish. Under hard engine braking and then throttle im getting a puff of blue smoke also the head is wet with oil around the exhaust port where the header attaches, after hard riding. Obvious answer is it flogged but wanted to know if it could be a attributed to the restricted muffler im currently running as on inlet side it steps down to 30mm where as the header is 40mm could this back pressure force be enough to make the engine burn oil?
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Valve guide seals may need replacing also .
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I'd agree with oldfart, new seals might well solve the problem.
What may be happening is that oil is being sucked by the vacuum in the exhaust caused by a shutting throttle. If it doesn't burn oil all the time that's the likely cause. I found the rings to be pretty good on the engines. Generally they lasted till it was time for a rebore. The rings on the 400 are the same part number as the 500. The bore and oversizes are identical; that goes for SP and GN variants too. Midrange was rubbish using my standard oval bore and the modded airbox. VM doesn't mean a lot, there's so many variations.
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Cheers for the advice folks,
Valve guide seals is that a head off job right down to the the block or the tappit cover only and are you aware of the parts being available new at what cost?
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if your going to all the trouble of taking off the head you may as well replace the rings as well and give the valves/seat a valve grind or at least lap the valves if its not too bad
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Generaly these motors are pretty well built and can take a good floggin all day long when well set up.
The best way to tell if your motor is in good nick is to pull the top end off down to the block and check piston to bore clearances- condition of piston and blow by.
Ring kits - file fit ( 350 4XC = 89mm $60 ? ) can be procured from serco if the ring landings are OK.
Now to the head ... you have valve stems that can be replaced if badly worn ( still available $4 each ) of which are a press in fit with a small oil ring... ( still available)
be carefull if you are pulling the vavles off yourself as they can break real easy and end up in tears $$$$.
Your Valve's go up and down inside these stems and have a unbrella seal ( vavle stem seal $10 each) they go hard and brittle over time and let oil pass into the cylinder ...Ie old holden red motors were bad for it.
hope this helps
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Get a manual if you can. Generally these motors are simpler to work on than old brit singles. The Clymer one is ok, and the suzuki SP400 manual is very good and has sections for DR and GN, though the motors are pretty much identical anyway. They turn up on ebay regularly
There's a DR400 specific manual available from New Zealand right now, turned up on ebay.com
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Cloggy have you spoken to Mark Cutler about these engines?
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No
I don't know who he is, unless he's the guy that roadraces, and then my knowledge is secondhand. I did get a modded piston off someone I met at Farleigh, but I don't remember his name.
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as stew said drill some holes in the air box to get it to breath. When i built the dr in VMX mag i fluked the pipe and muffler kit on evil bay for about $60 US they had 2 of them and only 2 people put a bid on them
Think I got the other one ;D
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This one is worth a look, DR/GN lower cradle and engine slipped on to RM top half with bunch of goodies, why didn't Suzuki do this in the first place?
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/a180190_1.jpg)
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That's Jean-Francois Helaine's bike. He intended to stroke it hence the 470, but when I last saw him he hadn't yet done it. He managed to bend both wheel axles at Farleigh about 2 or 3 years ago. He told me the following year. The craftsmanship was stunning. He'd grafted a set of GN bottom rails onto an RM chassis. The motor was pretty standard apart from a 38mm Mikuni, despite that it seemed to have no trouble running with the 5 to 600s He managed to mash the tank on the first day of racing. I think he's a lecturer/teacher in a french technical college. I got talking to him as I was trying to work out just exactly what it was.
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Old fart done a nice job on the one he has. I'm sure he's got plenty of pictures.
Stew and I have had a few battles out on the track with the DR's.
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Tony , it's getting a face lift over xmas along with a top end inspection.
I enjoy riding the DR 400 as it has brilliant front brakes, back brakes are hardly used due to engine compression. Seems to corner well and you can get on the power mid corner with out it getting out of shake ... Yes I know there are a few pics of me laying down having a rest -;D
Yes Tony we have had some good races over the years ;)
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Not sure if I should have started a new thread, but here's some more old articles pics.
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/CS420_79_01.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/CS420_79_02.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/dr500worksbike.jpg)
If somebody were to race this bike today in VMX, what class would it come under?
Pre 85 Open ?
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(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/XT550_01.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/XT550_02.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/XT550_03.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/XT550_04.jpg)
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GT 43 thanks for posting the CS420 story I remember the bike, just completely forgot about it.
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Cheers "SON", its my pleasure.
It certainly looked to be a potent engine for an ole 4 banger. 8)
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Hi Chaps,
im reading the clymer manual and I believe my DR400 has a VM33SS carb fitted. What is the correct setting for the slide needle on this model carb? Presently the needle circlip sit second from bottom position.
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What is your frame number??
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DR400 106577 Dude from Suzuki NZ said it was DR400ST
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6G1-3 for both the ST and the T; so I guess that's the middle position. That's with everything standard mind.
Main jet 122.5
Main air jet 1.0
Needle jet P-2
Pilot jet 15
Bypass1.0
Pilot outlet 0.8
Air screw one and a half turns out
Pilot screw ditto
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Thanks for the info,
As my stock carb has a broken jet ive got a Mikuni 36mm carb with the cam type throttle. Ive fitted this and the bike runs but misses in the mid range would i use the same jetting and needle position for this slightly larger carb? Also the choke does not seems to function properly in fact i had to rig up a hose that allows me to blow fuel directly into the airbox mesh screen to get the bike to start. Can you suggest what could be defective with this choke ive tested it in a bowl of fuel and the brass stem is not blocked.
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Aehunger, firstly have you access to a set of left hand drill bits and a reversible cordless drill with adjustable torque settings???
go back to the standard carb, in open air spray the broken jet with aero guard
(you guys have that insect repellant )
Leave it for 2 minutes then try to extract the broken jet by drilling in reverse, in a low torque setting,
Start fine and work your way up in sizes, as it gets close to the thread size it usually winds the jet out.
flush it with the aero guard after each attempt.
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and if you dont have a set of left hand drills then sharpen your right hand drill so they cut when going backwards
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And don't even bother wondering if the standard settings will work on a different carb. It's about as likely as swapping car doors between different models of cars.
Also, if you do any more than take out the snorkel from inside the airbox, the standard carb won't work. Mine stopped performing as soon as I cut the restriction out of the inlet trumpet. On the DR400 there is no point cutting holes in the airbox.
The air enters the filter on the inside of the filter and then runs into the airbox. If you cut holes in the airbox you are completely bypassing the filter, not clever.
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Also, if you do any more than take out the snorkel from inside the airbox, the standard carb won't work.
The DR400 T and DR400S air box inlets are different with the S having a rubber boot restricting it. The standard carb I would throw straight in the bin, plenty of FCR carbs off modern MXers second hand on fleabay that will give you another 5 instant hp and better running.
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Merry christmas fellas,
Can anyone tell me where to get a set of the side covers for the DR400.I need them in white...are these available at all in NZ?
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NOS turns up now and then but that's as far as it goes worldwide I think. I may have some decent originals that could be sprayed
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I have some decent blue ones in Newcastle NSW
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I got three brand new sets a few years back through my local suzuki dealer they came in black as black plastic.
they were for a DR500 1983 dont know if they are the same you could look up the part numbers through.
I did get a set off suzi spares in melbourne one came in black and one was painted white over the black plastic.
I just left mine black for something diffrent and you dont have to worry about paint coming off.
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Happy new year all,
Our local suzuki dealer has no part numbers earlier than 1996. Can some one please post a link to a site where I might search for original part numbers that way i can approach suzuki with the parts im after. Failing that is there another more available cover that could be modified to fit?
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Try this site.
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
Still available new Lhs & Rhs .....* note they come black and will need to be painted
Pretty sure the Dr 500 covers are the same deal.
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Team moto can get them in you
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Marc
Since Santa dropped that swinging arm down your chimney has any of his elves done any work on your bike?
any photos?
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Marc
Since Santa dropped that swinging arm down your chimney has any of his elves done any work on your bike?
any photos?
Nah mate the Elves have been busy on the RM185 and Cr250RB but it is in the pipeline, rediscovered my WB DR400 pipe in a box as I was building the new carport.
So have trick pipe, WB swinger, Simons forks and roughie set of 16" Foxy's so the bits to the puzzle are slowly coming together. Just debating to ditch the original side covers and go for RM T ones as the originals are pretty weak.
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Can you post a photo of the pipe?
I have searched every combination of DR/SP/DRM/RMH Specials looking at the best combinations of seats, tanks, exhausts and side covers to get it looking just right,
The best looking is the TM125 tanked RMH,
But the late RN tanked 500 is the most period correct,
Still not sure on frame covers and exhaust, I have several Supertrapps and reverse cone megs just not entirely happy with any yet.
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I have searched every combination of DR/SP/DRM/RMH Specials looking at the best combinations of seats, tanks, exhausts and side covers to get it looking just right,
The best looking is the TM125 tanked RMH,
Yeah I probabaly like the DRM on the 4th page of this thread the best, like the pseudo HL ally side covers. Have spare TM125 tank in my war chest so may use that.
I will take a photo of the pipe for you
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(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/IMG_20130110_0002_zpsf1f25b0c.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/IMG_20130110_0004_zps56a21278.jpg)
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Yes I agree that RMH is one of the best VMX Thumpers I have seen,
So good that I am building one identical
Just need an Original Preston Petty front guard and an exhaust and I am ready to start,
Ola thanks for that photo, I have not seen that before,
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Not suprised, they're taken in Sweden.. ;)
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Do you have any close ups or any other info or links??
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Nope, got them this weekend from the guy I think photographed it on the Swedish 4st cup in the 80's. Know nothing more, sorry.
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Nice pic, there's a regularly raced XT engined single shock RM in the UK. 500SP/DR engines are just beginning to creep into the UK. We never got them back in the day, recession.
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Without a doubt the "Old" 400 engine is so much better than the 500 that replaced it,
I am still trying to find what happened to the Full Floater one off,
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The newer engine had a reputation for toughness and an unsurpassed low down grunt, but it's a very big lump and looks heavy. The old engine outperformed the XT when taken out to something near the same capacity. With mods taking it to 52bhp for roadracing, 40bhp with a wide power band should be achievable for motocross
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=4582.15
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(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/dr500worksbike.jpg)
This bike is still racing in Japan, has RN400 tank and some other cool bits
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nice looking bike do you have any more pics of it
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This bike is still racing in Japan, has RN400 tank and some other cool bits
I thought it looked cool as well.
Nice to know its still kicking.Cheers Marc.
To see recent pics of the bike would be interesting.
To make one of these today, I guess it would be a matter of slotting a DR500 engine in a 84' RM250/125 chassis.
The problem though is the "RN" tank? A fabricator would have to make it I think. $$$.
Suzuki should have made this the DR600 back then, it probably would have been a better option to the TT600 or the XR500/600.
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(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/RM4t_01.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/RM4t_02.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/RM4t_03.jpg)
(http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa406/GT490/RM4t_04.jpg)
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i had forgotten about that rm/sr500 thumper,shame theres not more detailed pics of the frame mods thats been done. ;)
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In terms of UK racing it's next generation ie EVO 4 valves, balancer, single shock.
The DR400 is late 70s technology, would race in twinshock over here. It's a much looser formula than OZ, people convert single shockers to go twinshock racing.
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nice looking bike do you have any more pics of it
Sorry, that was the only pic I had unfortunately.
In terms of UK racing it's next generation ie EVO 4 valves, balancer, single shock.
The DR400 is late 70s technology, would race in twinshock over here. It's a much looser formula than OZ, people convert single shockers to go twinshock racing.
Interesting classes there Clogg.
I like sound of the EVO 4 valve.
But not sure about the conversion of Single shock to Twin shock, whether its a good thing or not. :-\
I guess it may add interest with a larger variety of bikes to play with. :)
But rare bikes could be ruined in the process, if people dont know what they are doing.
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Heres TT motor in RM400 frame, nice fit and looks cool
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/1108-1.jpg)
Heres what was advertised as a "professional conversion" to RM frame, bought a lump to my throat
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/198963987_full.jpg)
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Evo is just up to 89 single shock
A friend is making a Rotax KTM into twinshock for a customer, and folks are making twinshock frames for 83 maico engines, altering C&J Honda frames back to twinshock, even wrapping Curtis frames round a XR400. If anyone actually won on the latter there would be grumbling. As long as you are not up the sharp end nobody minds much: well actually the C&J are at the sharp end but there's very little to modify on that set up to take it back. It's got so that CCMs and mid/late 70s bikes are having classes just for themselves.
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Sounds cool Clogg, love to go over their one day and check the scene out.
I bet Shock companies and Fabricators/Engineers are doing well in the UK.
Marc
Yes that TT engine fits nice and snug in the RM400. Sweet.
TT500 engine looks more compact than the DR500.
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Best frame to use as a starting point is the SP 400 in my opinion, due to the fact they are lighter and are narrow enough to allow a better choice of tanks at the tank seat intersecting points. From there you can create a new rear shock point / or graft on a new rear frame section..... ie TM tanked RMH
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I thought the SP400 was pretty hideous offroad. It's no match for the DR, and requires expensive time consuming surgery to get it even close. There's a lot of back in the day tests saying the same thing.
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Cloggy .... re-read the first sentence and then have a close look at all the bikes posted in this subject and tell me time and surgery have not taken place.
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Yes but it hasn't been done much since the DR400 came out. DirtBike stated very clearly that it was not straightforward and that the DR400 was a further step change
The french DRM had GN frame rails grafted to a RM. I don't doubt that's better than a DR. When racing in the USA 4 stroke championship and the veterans 4 stroke championship the DR mod seemed to be tightening up the head angle a degree. Much more or there'd be no clearance.
I had a SP400 as my sole transport for 8 years and I've got several DRs now, 2 actually run!
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Hi All,
My '80 DR400 has a unusual carby fault somewhere....The bike starts easy with the choke and decomp but once running its terrible in the mid range. Idles o.k and top end seems ok. Then if I operate the choke a few times while giving it some revs it seems to come right and run fine from then on. Would like to know if anyone else has experienced this with a 36mm Mikuni carb or could suggest what is the problem. If it ran like it does, once ive fiddled with the choke, i would be over the moon.
Alex
Paeroa
NZ
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Back in the day before 4 strokes came to the fore front of MX I had a freind racing XR 400's with 2 stroke 36mm carbs. His comment was always that he had snappy response but doing away with the pumper carby did leave some lag in certain situations.
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Alex ....Do you have the cam operated type, if so they work well with that motor . The diaphram type are shit
Turn the air mixture ( RHS ) so it's about 2 turns out.....
check the float level..... 24mm.... gasket surface to top of float carb inverted
Check to see if neddle clip is secound slot from bottom .
Have you put compressed air to the the rear air ports ( back of carb ) to see if air comes out of the needle jet and air mixture holes .... as they block up with grit.
check to see if piolt jet is not blocked ... and again blow air thru this hole.
Paeroa Eh ... know the place very well ;D
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Can of Carb Cleaner with the extension tube,
Don,t forget safety glasses, eyes don,t grow back.
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Thanks for the good advice all,
Its a cam style carb and ive dropped the needle clip to the bottom because when i first fitted the carb it had this very problem and i figured it may have been starving but didnt know to fiddle with the choke for better performance. It goes like hell when it I do get it to stop the miss-firing. Really hoped to avoid stripping the carb again though so any ideas how I can achieve your points without breaking it down again?
Alex
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From your orignal discription it's a blockage .... so unless you find the problem ;) it won't clear it's self......sorry but it looks like you will have to pull it apart again.
Or as "Son" has suggest give it a quick squirt of carb cleaner.
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I have a DR500 which has the diaphragm type carb.
Just wandering, could I run my spare IT490 38mm Mikuni on it ?
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If you have the original carb it will not work at mid throttle if you've junked the airbox or opened up the inlet trumpet. Believe me I've tried. The problem is due to the the engine needing a dual taper needle in that carb once additional air is supplied. The 370 carb works great as it has a dual taper needle, however top end isn't so good as it's 1mm smaller. The bodies are different sizes and lengths so I doubt the 370 needle will fit in the bigger carb, but I haven't tried it so don't know for sure.
Er this is only relevent for the DR400!
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Ok, thanks Cloggy.
I'll put the original carb back on for now.
Currently a little worried about a heap of metal shavings in the gearbox, just as I read that DR500's have weak 3rd or 4th gears.
Do you know what Carb would work well on a DR500 ?
I know somebody in UK runs a DRZ400 pumper, - but very expensive.
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I ran a 38mm flat slide mikuni on my DR500 went great, better than the 40mm org diaphragm job...
The 38mm flat slide comes in two diffrent sizes where it mounts in the rubber manifold out side dia of the carb , so check that if you get one ;) brand new ones out that is.
I had to cut about 4mm off the front of my org diaphragm carby and place in the manifold first then place flat slide in.
with out the 4mm ring in the manifold first ,the flat slide moved up and down to much, because the recess part on the flat slide is located in a diffrent spot to the org carby. To suit the inside rubber ridge in the manifold.
I hope you under stand my instructions.
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I use a flat slide pumper carby off a DR600. works great on the DR500 and no flat spots.
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what size is the dr600 pumper DR500 ???
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I think I know what your getting at Mick. Thanks for that info.
Does the Flat slide need to be jetted ?
I use a flat slide pumper carby off a DR600. works great on the DR500 and no flat spots.
Handy to know as well, appreciate it.
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I think I know what your getting at Mick. Thanks for that info.
Does the Flat slide need to be jetted ?
I use a flat slide pumper carby off a DR600. works great on the DR500 and no flat spots.
Handy to know as well, appreciate it.
It's off a 1984 DR600, 40mm mikuni.
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40mm mikuni
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Do you have any jetting specs for the DR 600 carb onto the 500.
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Hi All,
Shocks on my DR are flogged strictly spring only action making for a ride with zero damping. What is best value for money in terms of replacement units. I will be honest ive got two kids so time riding is very limited therefore dont need top of the line gear.
Cheers
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Contact ....Hone Heki, he knows of a place local that does rebuilds.
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Thanks I think...Although I read in my Clymer manual the units are disposable or is there new technology that make that statement untrue.
Alex
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Alex..... new technology that make that statement untrue.
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buy some yss shocks as there going to be more advanced then your 1980 std rebuilt shocks and wont be that much more in $$ value,youll even get springs to match your weight and riding style ; ;)
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I'd put 16.5" shocks on. The bike turns better and is still stable I'd check YSS against the price of a rebuilt set before you decide
There is a second hand shock that works really well on DRs but I don't know if you got this military model down under. It's the Armstrong 500/Harley350 Rotax. I have a set of these on one of my DRs, they are 16.5" Ohlins, excellent quality , adjustable and the spring rate is just about right.
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Just picked up this one ::) couldn't help myself, have Simons and White Bros swinger, OEM lights and odo in my war chest to go on
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/253254638_zpsfa0421d6.jpg)
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Marc you may as well grab this one too :)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=566948325
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Marc you may as well grab this one too :)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=566948325
market is saturated with them..... plenty of candidates for GMC ftrame kits
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How does the front end come away from the frame on the DR400? I can see a single bolt at the top of the triple clamp but am unsure about the remaining assembly method. Would appreciate any pointer on this topic. Also would like to know of the availability of piston ring sets in NZ.
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Ok ...undo the bolt you have mentioned , then take out the pinch nut and bolt just below it .... then undo the pinch bolts LHS & RHS that hold your fork tubes - do the same with the bottom triple. You will need to elevate the bike a bit to allow the tubes to slide thru the triples....... are you with me ;)
Next there is a lock nut with slots in it just above the dust seal ( top of steering head ) undo that and make sure you hold the bottom triple at the same time to stop it falling on the floor ;)
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
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Pretty happy with my new purchase, one that has never been a farm bike and came with new tyres
Tonight the pure unobtanium bling comes out and the transformation starts. ;)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/253254422_zpsc051e258.jpg)
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I'm very interested in what carb you'll use White Bros did a 36 kit back in the day but I've lost the jetting specs Tom White sent me. I'm curious to know just how much difference the carb swap makes.
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I'm very interested in what carb you'll use White Bros did a 36 kit back in the day but I've lost the jetting specs Tom White sent me. I'm curious to know just how much difference the carb swap makes.
Yeah i had that in mind for phase 2.... VM Mikuni would probably do the job just like with the HL
Though in saying that there is a life timesd worth of second hand FCR s available off blown modern MXers that would be far superior
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Some guys I know in the UK race a DR with a modern carb. they didn't even rejet it. They ran a virtually bogstock DR at Farleigh Castle and came in abut 2/3rds down, must have been the cheapest bike out there.
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I would say a Keihin FCR would be the go but may not be legal in the Evo class in this country.
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Hey Guys what do you think a DR 400 in a PE175Z frame all above average would be worth?
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Hey Guys what do you think a DR 400 in a PE175Z frame all above average would be worth?
not sure Frankenbikes tend to have beauty in the eye of the beholder thing, but are often not worth as much as the sum of the bikes they were robbed from.... $1000 maybe.... given the PEDR is a bit of an unknown
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Hey Guys what do you think a DR 400 in a PE175Z frame all above average would be worth?
not sure Frankenbikes tend to have beauty in the eye of the beholder thing, but are often not worth as much as the sum of the bikes they were robbed from.... $1000 maybe.... given the PEDR is a bit of an unknown
yes I agree ;) thanks
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A modern carb isn't legal here either, but if you're not up the pointy end no one cares
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Pretty happy with my new purchase also... ;D
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/box1_zpscc4eff6d.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/box_zpsafe1a3ab.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/cylinder_zps4843a6c3.jpg)
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To replace the Husky? OK put up some more pics.. looks like an aftermarket framed DR400?
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What's the benefit of cutting out every secound cooling fin ::)
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What's the benefit of cutting out every secound cooling fin ::)
It looks nice ;)
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What's the benefit of cutting out every secound cooling fin ::)
To make the pommy mud fall out easy ;)
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I haven't got any more pics yet, but it's the Curtis SP400 posted earlyer in this thread, it's going to particles now, for a little makeover...
Haven't desided on style yet, I guess the numberplaterearfender and no sidecovers is the most correct on a Curtis, but I quite liked the look with the HL style covers that where on it...
And the benifit of finning is that it looks like a proper supercool british special thumper! ;D
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Looked like this before disassembly...
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/155590_4800750421953_1044040919_n_zps92e0b9b7.jpg)
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Good bike, not keen on the CR tank,
I think a TM125 tank is the answer,
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Got a -78 RM125 alu tank that will be tried on, the bike was built on the Curtis Honda jig, that's why the CR tank...
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i think the tm tank would look great or, a 77b tank could work to, still a very nice bike
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That's very cool Ola, I'd like to see it with the '77 RM tank. Is this bike to be ridden?
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Don't know, not in anger anyway ;), it's going back up on era correct suspension, fenders etc. first. So we'll see, the previous owner raced it...
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Curtis seems to have put everything in an HL frame except a KLX engine ;D
Cool bike would look good with TM or YZ125C tank but then again its a bit tame...... polished B50MX tank would look cool with the flip up cap.
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/MexicoandNewZealand727.jpg)
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Hi Riders,
If servicing DR400 front forks what is typically required? Ive done a bit of investigation and think Oil Seal, Ring Stopper, Dust Seal and Case Dust Seal would be sufficient. Can someone with experience verify this please. Also, are these seals available aftermarket or is it the same cost to go direct to Suzuki NZ.
Cheers Alex
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Alex .... budget fork seal and dust kits are available via "Pyramid parts" ebay I think it's "Krisodemus" or someting like that is your Kiwi agent
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pyramid-Parts-Fork-Oil-Seals-Dust-Seals-fits-Suzuki-DR400-1980-/321090116201?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac2765a69
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Hi there,
thanks for the tip we have pyramid parts here in NZ too and I can get fork seals from them at a reasonable. Are aircaps available for these forks still? They are mentioned in the white bros hot up for DR400 bikes.
Cheers
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The damping is pretty confused. If you're going to improve the stock wimpy forks I'd get YSS cartridge emulators.
Whatever, just check earlier posts before you decide
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Gidday,
Is a rear guard similar to the one pictured on the MX action mag DR400 available anywhere? My rear guard is knackered and am looking at options to replace.
Alex
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I found this on Facebook, no information. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=156067061231976&set=a.156066081232074.1073741827.100004860480429&type=1&permPage=1 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=156067061231976&set=a.156066081232074.1073741827.100004860480429&type=1&permPage=1)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/sUZUKIdr1_zps27abc4a3.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/sUZUKIdr1_zps27abc4a3.jpg.html)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/suzukidr_zps647a7467.jpg) (http://s1112.photobucket.com/user/firko2/media/suzukidr_zps647a7467.jpg.html)
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Hallo, I`m new here in this forum. I am in the progress of putting a dr 400 engine in a Suzuki rm 125 (1979) frame.
Here is a picture of my two Suzuki rm 125 with Honda xl 185 engines in them, I will be putting the dr 400 engine in the bike with the Alu tank.
Please disregard my English, it isn’t that good.
(http://s7.directupload.net/images/130528/deezc8gr.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)(http://)
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Here are some pictures of the frame, progress is going slow.
(http://s7.directupload.net/images/130528/yb6xie2f.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)(http://)
(http://s14.directupload.net/images/130528/tsgjykvo.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)(http://[img]
[URL=http://www.directupload.net][IMG]http://s1.directupload.net/images/130528/58cvqamu.jpg)[/URL](http://)
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Finished frame.
(http://s1.directupload.net/images/130528/58cvqamu.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)(http://)
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Very nice Fatcat. I look forward to seeing the finished result. By the way nothing wrong with your English. You should see what we do with it here in Australia. What country are you from? Cheers Jerry
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Here are some pictures of the frame, progress is going slow.
(http://s1.directupload.net/images/130528/58cvqamu.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)(http://)
Nice work though 8)
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Nice workmanship Fatcat, and like Jerry said, your English is fine. I love a good engine swap hot rod bike.
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Jerry .... have you allowed for a top engine brace ( head to frame )
Nice Job by the way.
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Thanks old fart but I think Fat Cat deserves the credit! J
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Having a senior moment Ooops ;D
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Has somebody got something new to this topic?
I`m getting my engine fixed up, cylinder bored new piston and rings, vales cut in new and the head worked on a little. I will put in some picture when I get the parts back.
I`m looking for a EI Blue Magnum Carb and the rear fender like in the picture. That short fender looks real good. Maybe I could use the rear fender from a TM 400 1975?
(http://s7.directupload.net/images/140627/z7eksqsg.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net)
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The rear fender was Yamaha YZ125X in Yellow
Very skinny and wrong for the bike
But since Suzuki had lost its way in the 2 years of that time
The Suzuki C, C2 and N guards were all UGLY compared to the A, B or T equivalents
Lucky Sir Geoffrey fixed this in the GMC HALLMAN SUZUKI REPLICA
As well as the stupid splined YZ footpeg mounts and a taller engine bay for Stroker Motors
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Sorry I forgot to ad that he also fixed the seat as well
Crazy on THOR's part to run the YZ125 C/X seat
Sir Geoffrey made the Replica with a Suzuki 125 N/T seat
Just like the tank
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Sir Geoffrey of Broadford. I like it! J
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I got my DRM 400 finished today here’s a picture. 1978 RM 400 frame DR 400 engine.
http://www.directupload.net](http://fs2.directupload.net/images/150113/lf5ureir.jpg)[/URL]
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Sir Geoffrey of Broadford. I like it! J
AKA Sir Migalot
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Top job Fatcat, very nice indeed.
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that's a nice job
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Looks great , looks like it has a tt,xt500 carb on it to 8)
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That TM tank really sets it off
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Fabulous looking bike.
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Ft Cat i put rm400T side covers on mine but like what you have done better, Nice Bike
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Very nice
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I got my DRM 400 finished today here’s a picture. 1978 RM 400 frame DR 400 engine.
http://www.directupload.net](http://fs2.directupload.net/images/150113/lf5ureir.jpg)[/URL]
Wow! That's easily the best RM/DR combo I've ever seen. Reminds me of the FastBits RM/DR from a few years ago.
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Good job ;)
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Looks as though everything started life together, to me if a hybrid looks like it could have been produced by the factory then it's got to be a good thing. Well done
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That's one very cool bike, congratulations! ;)
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What a fantastic looking bike. Top job Fatcat. I love 4st hybrids
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That looks very nice, good job 8)
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Awsome looking bike fatcat more of these bike builds should be encouraged well done mate Bear
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Nice, but how much better it would look with the 74 TM graphics
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Great work.Looks very professional .
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Looks great , looks like it has a tt,xt500 carb on it to 8)
Yes it is a carb from a xt 500, 32 mm. I opened it up to 34 mm with a lathe, should have left it at 32 mm I’m not really satisfied with it. The header gets hot pretty fast maybe to hot? And the air mix screw is only ½ turn out if I turn it out any farther the engine start popping when I give gas.
Any ideas?
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Well done! I like it....
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Hell yes! Love it. Strange that it pops when you wind out the mixture screw? Maybe try a slightly larger pilot jet, see what happens.
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I agree with Curtis. With you saying the header gets hot very quick that would indicate a lean mixture to me. Also, the fact that the problem (popping) gets worse when you wind out the mixture screw also indicates a lean mixture. Remember, the more air you put in by opening the venturi size, you will also need more fuel 8) I would enlarge both the pilot and main jets as a start.
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Also check the header pipe is sealed good , take it off and look at the header pipe gasket and make sure the gasket is crushed all the way round so there's no air getting sucked in when backing off on the gas , if it's leaking it can make it pop to .
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Check the ignition timing. It could be retarded if the pipe heats quickly.
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Come up one on the pilot (Std is # 15 ) ;)
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From my understanding most 4 stroke carbs have their air (fuel screw) screw located somewhere between the carb body and the cylinder. The further out it's turned the more fuel it allows hence making a richer low end fuel/air mix. This is opposed to a typical two stroke carb like a Mikuni where the airscrew is at the rear of the carb body and that by turning the screw out allows more air and a leaner mix.
Make sure you know which way to turn the air/fuel screw to make a richer or leaner mix.
Air screws at the back of carbs: turning the screw out = more air and a lean mix
Air/fuels at front of carbs: turning the screw out = more fuel and a rich mix