OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => CZ => Topic started by: shakeyCZ on October 17, 2011, 11:13:24 am
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Okay all i have just undone my screw at the bottom of the crank and the bike has not been started or run for 4 weeks and engine oil came out threw the screw hole i would say 40-60ml of oil. Is this bad and would this make the bike not run properly, like when you go to take off it wants to stall, at the top end when it just dies and you just can't get any power from half throttle up ??? ???
But what I need to know is will this cause problems with the crank preassure? it has all new seals and bearing in it as I have just rebuild the whole engine about 3 months ago
I guess I will have to split the engine and reseal it
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Hi,
If you are unsure of the signs, that differentiate excess fuel ,ie flooding carb, from leaking crank seals.
remove crankcase drain screw, drain fluid , replace crankcase drain screw, remove Carb from intake manifold , seal inlet, recheck crankcase drain after a couple of weeks,
when you say "engine oil" do you mean transmission fluid, if you suspect a transmission fluid leaking into crankcase thru case joins or past crank seals , Drain transmission completely refil with Auto transmission fluid, TQF, the red one, with no carb fitted , and recheck crankcase drain after a couple of weeks ,
you could do it the other way by draining the the transmission and leave the carb connected,
cheers
ps dont use "TQF" for transmission fluid in a CZ
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yer i thought the same but i had disconnected the fuel and before i parked it in the shed I ran all the fuel out so there was no fuel in carby or tank as the fuel tank was off as well, so it has had no fuel in it for 4 weeks and it is defanetnly oil from the gearbox, would this cause it to run bad?
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Hi,
if you drain the transmission fluid by using the drain plug only, there will be oil left in the inner clutch cover, so when you refill the transmission with the specified amount they are overfilled ,
did you use a "viton"high temp seal for the ignition (dry) side , check you are using the right seals,ie, for rotating shafts and not seals for sliding shafts ie, fork tubes,
cheers
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Yer I used cz seals from cz stuff in UK, I have no other leaks any where else just into the crank, I know it's leaking but will it cause the engine to run with no power, I don't know how much oil I have lost when I last ran the bike but maybe that's why is smokes so much when it was running and why the muffler was so oily
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what did you use as sealent between the cases.gi gantors cz was doing the same thing and the problem was that the cases didnt seal properly and it leaked oil from the front of the gearbox straight into the crank.oil used to run out when he undid the crank drain screw.
jim
i use a loctite product make a gasket(i think) its red and only sets on compression.it also takes up any little gaps and seals them.
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I used loctite for my cases, I think I will have to split and redo, big pain in the ass but such is life thanks all
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think im having a simular problem with my 360 sidepipe.
only getting half the oil out of the gear box when draining after 3-4 meetings.
and not running as cleanly as it used to before it spat out a gudgeon pin circlip and made a mess of the crankcases ( had to split cases then to clean everything up)
have replaced the crank seal and will see if its better at next meeting.
mine aint that bad as runs just a tad rich but the oil is definately getting into crankcase so will have to split em and re-seal the cases if the new seal doesnt work.
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The product Jimg1au uses is 518 master gasket, I'm using the same in mine after the holed piston due to a possible air leak
Pays to lay a thread of cotton or silk if you read the manual around the cases as a extra barrier if your cases aren't perfectly flat, has worked well in mine
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I use three bond.
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Shakey
Check the primary side inner seal steel sleeve surface plus the seal spring can be pushed out when fitting the steel sleeve leaving the crankseal without tension sucks the gearbox oil had this happen once
Just might save a motor split
Cheers
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Hi,
"Three Bond" is the answer, use the white one , its 3 times the price of the grey three bond.
cheers
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thats in both our cz's and a great seaerl, had a top man do the rebuild on motors. ;D
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thats in both our cz's and a great seaerl
bit early in the day to be hitting the red wine? ;D
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my six year old can spell better than me, ;D
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try this before you split the cases, get hold of some gel type superglue,drain the gearbox oil and remove the inspection cover, then degrease the seam on the inside of the crank cases (this is where the oil may be drawn in) from the top down to the drain plug, i used strong paint thinners, then treat the seam with some superglue activator.
let it all dry out then squirt the super glue at the top of the seam with a big enough blob and watch it slowly run down to the bottom, then squirt this bead of super glue with the activator so it goes off.
repeat if neccessary to attain a good thick bead (i did it twice).
the glue will be pulled in by any gaps and will then seal with the activator.
this is only a temp fix but works well and cured an air leak on my twinport for a whole season till i had time to split the cases and use the old silk thread trick.
dont worry the cases will not "super glue together" as your just sealing the tiniest of leaks you just scrape it off when you split the cases.
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wow thats a good one Stump Magnet, will have to keep that one super glue fix, its amazing just how many things you can do with super glue. I think i will split the cases and get it wright, but do you all think it will cause it to run bad?
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this thread is now got me thinking of the problem i have. rebuilt top end including reed valve and porting.also converting to run on methenol.its very rich at the moment 3/32 main jet it ran with a 2.5mm main but very rich.the exhurst is not sealed on the join and oil drips down and splashes up from the joint.it leaves a small puddle the size of a 50c bit after running 900mm of fuel through it.about 8-15 kicks from cold first up but after each 300ml run it starts first kick every time.runs fat but its new and so is the jetting waiting for my tank then will give it a run and see how it goes when hot.i will leave the bike for a week and see if the crankcase is full of oil.i dont know what colour the oil is (colour blind) plug is dry but dark.wonder if its unburnt shel m 20:1
jim
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wow thats a good one Stump Magnet, will have to keep that one super glue fix, its amazing just how many things you can do with super glue. I think i will split the cases and get it wright, but do you all think it will cause it to run bad?
as i said just a temp fix though it does work and will eliminate one posible leak path.
sucking in gear oil will make your bike run very rich especialy at the top end though
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Well found the leak, I put some pressure in the gear box(air) and oil came from gear box and seal on crank gear drive side, so new seal spilt case and found I must have not let the gasket glue dry enough as there was a big hole that looks like it was sucked in towards the crank and dryed in a funny shape so will let you no it I have fixed it thanks again everyone.