OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Mike52 on April 15, 2011, 08:04:42 pm
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Got the clutches dragging in both my 85 400 wr and my 86 240 wr . :'(
Oil used in both gearboxes is ST30 Penrite as used in Briggs and Stratton motors.
Both clutches were free on assembly and are now a pain in the A*&^.
Ran the 400 yesterday and it was fine , today is another story.
Ran the 240 today and yep .
Should I change to ATF or has someone got another solution.
Over adjusting the clutches makes no difference.
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How is the clutch basket, notches will prevent the plates from completely disengaging therefore dragging.
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How is the clutch basket, notches will prevent the plates from completely disengaging therefore dragging.
Na , know about that one. :)
Am thinking that the oil has made the plates swell as they have been sitting dry for a loooong time.
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Mike , keep ATF fluid out of 2T gear boxs as it will kill your bearings.
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Mike
I use Castrol VMX80 without any drag problems. My 82 430XC clutch is much easier to use after I fitted the 86 model longer actuator arm. The 84 240 WR is still a bit heavy to pull in even with the 86 arm and after dressing the wear notches on the basket. Never had clutches drag though - just heavy pull. The 84 is getting a new basket soon and hopefully that will help. I would have no probs trying another oil though if people have recommendations. Good luck :)
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Re learnt an old trick today :-[ :-[ Lubricated the clutch cable and hey presto clutch pull significantly easier. Wouldn't have believed it unless I felt it for myself. Thought the cable was fine when tested loose by hand. Lubed it with WD40 and it became heaps easier to pull the clutch lever. This was a fairly new Terry cable.
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Re learnt an old trick today :-[ :-[ Lubricated the clutch cable and hey presto clutch pull significantly easier. Wouldn't have believed it unless I felt it for myself. Thought the cable was fine when tested loose by hand. Lubed it with WD40 and it became heaps easier to pull the clutch lever. This was a fairly new Terry cable.
I meant to actually post something on that subject. I got around to doing some long overdue maintenance yesterday and had bought one of those clamp-on cable lube thingy's a while back. Couldn't believe the difference in the front brake action after I'd used it.
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Ahhh ....one of those clamp on tocklers do you mean mainline? I hear they bring tears to the eyes ;D ;D ;D
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Na guys the lever is as light as [with a 2 finger Magura lever] but you can,t clutch start the beasties.
That second 240 in the picture I just posted of the two 240,s is the same.
Can,t push them in gear when cold , with the clutch in of course.
You can rock them back and forth and the clutch won,t release.
Take them for a run and all is fine. ::)
Sort of like the old TY 250s.
So that,s 3 of them the same and me with a busted kickstart foot.
Bummer. :'(
Got a ride coming up next weekend and it,s gunna hurt my foot again I just know it.
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Pulled the cover of one of the 240,s today for a look and the plates were stuck together.
Needed a screwdriver to unstick them [ clutch was pulled to bits and the plates were in my hand ]
Clutch basket on this one is brand new so there are no wear marks at all.
Had this trouble with a TY250 and even installed the special Yamaha "V" rings between the plates with no joy.
Sold it to a guy who started it and snicked it into gear, shifted my water tank when he did that . I had warned him about the clutch. :o
Bit of a worry this. :'(
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Ahhh ....one of those clamp on tocklers do you mean mainline? I hear they bring tears to the eyes ;D ;D ;D
sorry missed that post. Yes, they're like vice grips. You have to make sure they're adjusted right before you commit ;D
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Mike, iam going thru the same thing on one of my 83' huskys (xc250) i reckon the fibre plates get soft and slightly grow and/ or separate off the aluminiun plate as they get older ? they stick if you sit the bike for a while (week or two) once you release them -first push off and slip/fan it for a minute and there ok until next time,iam going to track down down some new steel replacements soon -i have been using Belray gearsaver oil but dont think it's oil related , maybe your's are the same problem .cheers
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Stick to VMX 80. Advice given to me for my CR 430 XC 250 CR 125 1981 etc from a member of the Swedish Husqvarna factory team that had Alberg in it.
Pete
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allso check the little thrust bearing on the end of the push rod the rollers come out and the clutch lifts one side only letting it drag a bit quick check with clutch pulled in rotate the engine to see if one side is tight and one loose with a small screw drive dont push to hard but :) good luck
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Thanks for the interest guys. :)
I probably should have said clutch plates STICKING in the heading.
When I assembled these motors I gave them a turn over with the clutch cover off and worked the clutch to make sure all was well. Went through the gears. Just a general look for any problems.
This is something I do on every motor I rebuild.
All was well. I went for a ride and all was well.
Next time I went to start it I noticed that the plates were stuck together. [Was trying to find neutral ]
Pulled the cover off and dismantled the clutch.
Held the clutch plates in my hand and they stayed together in a lump.
Trick is that this is happening on 3 bikes one of which has a complete new clutch.
You can put the bike in any gear , pull the clutch in and rock the bike and the clutch will NOT let go.
Take it for a run and it,s ok until it cools down then back to the problem.
Huskibul appears to have the same problem.
Will try Husabergpete,s suggested oil type next.
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Funny thing too is that over the years we have noticed all our old euro trials bikes have that really sticky clutch problem. Fantic, Italjet, Bultaco. With them we just lived with it, but not much good on a race starting line.
Let us know the cure.
Pete
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Funny thing too is that over the years we have noticed all our old euro trials bikes have that really sticky clutch problem. Fantic, Italjet, Bultaco. With them we just lived with it, but not much good on a race starting line.
Let us know the cure.
Pete
Had a TY250 that did this too. :)
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So what is the result so far - you gotsa finish the story
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So what is the result so far - you gotsa finish the story
Sorry
Havn,t even had a look.
Been doing the electrics on another one. :o
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I know mine is a tad older at a 1978 390WR, but the last time I rebuilt the clutch (also had dragging problems) I binned the alloy plates and replaced them with steel ones. Problem solved..... for me anyway !
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So what is the result so far - you gotsa finish the story
Ok you shamed me into doing something so I pulled it to bits and
(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/mike52_photo/flood/clutch1001.jpg)
(http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx172/mike52_photo/flood/clutch1002.jpg)
This clutch will never slip cause it,s stuck together real well :o
I rekon Grouty has the answer.
I know mine is a tad older at a 1978 390WR, but the last time I rebuilt the clutch (also had dragging problems) I binned the alloy plates and replaced them with steel ones. Problem solved..... for me anyway !
Where did you find the steel plates Grouty ?
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Mike ive got some (steel) on the way from phillip at "husqvarna parts us" their barnett brand at a very reasonable $12 fibre /$7 steel :)
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Mike ive got some (steel) on the way from phillip at "husqvarna parts us" their barnett brand at a very reasonable $12 fibre /$7 steel :)
Yep me too .
Just ordered 3 sets.
Have got too many huskys I rekon. ;D
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Sorry Mike, I should have said that I got them from Phillip.
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Ok I have fitted the steel clutch plates and the clutch STILL drags but nowhere as much.
I can now change her up and down through the gears while standing still ( engine running ) :)
Snicked her into 1st today and snuffed the sucker , kicked back and hurt me foot again BUT I could clutch start it this time.
Before anyone says that it,s kicking back because of the timing I,d just like to point out that I,ve carelessly lost most of my right knee in a roady accident and have also cut my right quads in an industrial.
Fact is I kick like a girl and the husky takes advantage. :'(
Bikes hate people and every chance they get they strike.
Don,t believe me ?
Get off on the downhill side of your bike on a big hill and see what happens. ;D
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I'm confused. I have a fleet of Husky's with absolute zero clutch drag problems. Have had some slipping problems but never a dragging issue. Nothing special about the clutches other than the usual extended arms and easy pull levers. Dunno.
Cheers,
K
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I had the same problem back in the 70s with a 360wr tried every thing
but the plates still would not free up untill the motor was wormed up
then one Saturday i was getting ready for a ride on Sunday and no
motor oil only automatic fluid so i put that in the gear box . I never had
a bit of trouble with clutch all day i think most of the dragging clutch
problems are caused by the Oils and what Companies put in them.
There are more Nastyies in oil these days under the name of Molecules
that stop thing likes clutches working properly
Poppy
Jiaw
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Stig may have hit the nail on the head !
It seems to me that the only thing that has changed down through the years is the oil we use !
Could this be the issue here.
Friction material has not changed that much, and alloy or steel plates are the same now as they were decades ago.
The additives in the oil could/may affect the clutch drag/slip. It may be worth trying a different oil. I have been using the same brand in my Husky gearbox for years. But I bet it is slightly differnt now to what it was say 8 years ago.
What oil are you using Mike ?
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What oil are you using Mike ?
Penrite ST30 grouty.
Will give ATF a go next.
We pulled the other one down today ( you can see it in the back of the last picture , has gold forks )
to install the steel plates and had real trouble separating the plates. ( oil in that one is an unknown )
K the problem is obvious if you snick it into any gear and try to push it around the shed.( clutch in )
Just drags the back wheel and won,t break free.
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I run two older Huskys including '75 360GP without any clutch issues of any kind.
I ditched the alloy plates and both are now running Barnett clutches with steel plates.
Motul 4 stroke oil in trans changed after every meeting.
However....'74 KX450 with a stock Kawasaki clutch slipped badly with Motul 4 stroke oil.
I flushed the trans and filled with ATF .Clutch has run perfect for a full VMX race season.
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Awaiting the "GONG" from Watto HVA ;) . His dad, The Amazing Bill Watson swears by ATF : told me in simple terms,get 2 litres, 200cc in each fork leg and the other 1600 in the gearbox, job's done. You've gotta remember, that's what they used back in the day.
And his word's way good enough for me, he's been dicking round with Huskies since 1965 and had a hatload of them... :D
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Wopped the ATF in .
Seems to be a little better . Clutch is releasing now after a little while. Havn,t tried riding it yet.
Oil is that thin it,s now leaking out of the water pump drain hole :o
Poo.
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Finally happy :)
Steel plates , ATF and ended up fitting a 85/400 clutch cam [ has more travel ]
Works well and releases without motor running.
Can now clutch start the thing if I want. ;D