OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Introductions => Topic started by: JADERD on February 14, 2011, 11:34:50 am
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Hi All
joined the forum to gain knowledge and information about how to go about a basic restoration and clean up of dads old bike and my old learn to ride / buzz around the family vineyard as a kid bike.
cheers
Basic Rundown
Dad purchased bike brand new in Aus in 1975, apparently a bike shop went bust in adelaide and they had 8-10 bikes (all F11B) shop in mildura sourced them and dad got it cheap in crate to mildura then was put together in mildura by bike shop.....think he payed around 750 $ Aud back in the day......
Prior to that dad had a suzuki TS 185 i think it is ?...or TC 185 73 model
Dad rode the bike occasionally mainly as low km commuter to night job (10km return) as ran vineyard during day and used it to get around vineyard and check the irrigation etc.....rigged up a shovel holder at one point lol :)....got parked in shed in 1985-7 and then i first nagged him to get it out in 1996. Had been parked for 8-9 years, put some fuel in and 2 kicks on choke then one with it off and there she goes....basically from then on i drove it around our fruit block for fun till i was around 18-19 and moved to melbourne.....since then i get it out every 2-3 years to make sure its still running etc..new oil around 2000 maybe etc
Most recently i got it out last week checked oil...clean as :)...added some fuel and started it .....took heaps of photos and 2 videos which are on you tube (below) took the photos so i have reference if searching for parts etc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVRs9bQf7eE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyDhJINruvo
Stats on Bike.
75 F11B - in manual it shows UK and US model but from what i can see the AU is in between .....ie us style tacho etc but speedo in km for aus not MPh and afew other things i think......
9300 genuine KM's
[color="Red"]
Surprises[/color]
*still have bike manual in plastic in great condition
*tools for tool kit, just missing 2 of the spanner sizes which are somewhere ..will find most prob....and also need to source the orig plastic pocket sleeve that contained them.....tool box cap is still on bike although a little grazed as the aftermarket kick start touched it when kicked so has gouged a small chanel out :( have purchased another from US
[color="Red"]All original except for:[/color]
* new knobby rear tire (orig rear in shed), will replace with semi road tyre
* new kick start welded onto mount of old one as orig snapped, im sourcing an orig currently to replace this.
* Seat recovered by Uncle who is a car upholster back in 80's....done is a dark blue leather....maybe vinyl
[color="red"]Need to repair (known things)[/color]
*new trip computer knob as is snapped
*rub back and repaint exhaust orig color as dad repainted a heat paint red color back in 70's
* rub back and paint fuel tank / new stickers .....or just buff up orig paint and get new stickers....paint is fine just has afew little scratches etc.....no dints :)
*front brake locks every now and then when you apply it....service it
*new side reflector at fron left needed...- have purchased from US
*rub back and resticker the oil reservoir cover...i got happy with whiteout back in the day :)....will put on orig sticker etc
* need new airfilter
basically the bike is all fine and runs, everything works (except speedo) my aim is to fix it up to clean orig condition.
im thinking as its done min kms i shouldnt pull engine apart ?
any advice would be great
PS - i do have the baffle for exhaust in the shed..........it seems to be two pieces......one log one around 12" long and a smaller one which i believe slide into this one then the lot slides into exhaust?
I need to get the bike from Mildura to Melbourne so have got quotes from the main 5-6 companies that came up in google search and they correlate to whats recommended on the forum. Some dont do that route and of those that do there are 2.
Ferguson Motorcycle transport - door to door and full insurance $385
Bikenut - fairly sure door to door incl full insurance is $375
Bike Logistics door to door and basic insurance excess applies, no helmet transport $385
ill get it down to melbourne most prob just after my wedding so around mid march.
Simon
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Welcome ,,your in the right state of Oz to get plenty of old bike info.Victoria has a far bit of VMX,Vinduro and at easter there more old bike gear up at HBBB...trials,road racing,speedway,vinduro,vmx......
http://www.ma.org.au/index.php?id=hbbb
cheers west Oz
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Thanks for the information mate
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Welcome!
The links to your youtube clips weren't working for me, so I've re-done them:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyDhJINruvo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVRs9bQf7eE
That's a cool bike mate, once you get it finished you should bring it to a vinduro!
Tex
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Yup cool bike Jaderd, I have an F11 myself 8) it was loosely set up for vintage mx but I'm in 2 minds what to do with it. Probably take it back to standard eventually as I have all the lights and gauges packed away ;)
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A few extra pics in this one .. 8)
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=8430.0
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heres some pics of how the bike currently sits (around 18months ago...covered off ground in shed at moment till i get it)
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/Kawasaki%20F11B%201975/
you can see the incorrect color painted exhaust by dad back in the 70's, broken speedo knob, dodgy kick start, missing reflectors on side of headlight (have purchased new ones) scratches on tool box lid from dodgy kick start (have purchased new one) Recovered seat happened in late 80's uncle is a motor trimmer so quickly covered it for dad, aftermarket knobby rear, put on by a mates older brother when i was a teen, left over from one of his KTM's from late 90's he used to race.
cheers
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Here's the F11 owners manual.
http://cid-86267c09a3452a71.office.live.com/browse.aspx/Kawasaki%20Old%20School%20Pre%201985%20Service%20Manuals/Kawasaki%201973%20F11%20Owners%20Handbook (http://cid-86267c09a3452a71.office.live.com/browse.aspx/Kawasaki%20Old%20School%20Pre%201985%20Service%20Manuals/Kawasaki%201973%20F11%20Owners%20Handbook)
Worth a read for any new owner ;)
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Sounds like it's gonna look a treat when you're done. It's actually in quite reasonable condition already.
Hey Doc, don't suppose you have a manual for a KL250 you can post up?
Tex
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awesome, thanks for the feedback and uploading owners manual, although i actually have one at home still in its original plastic sleeve, i think though that i will have to travel home to find it as i cannot exactly remember where i placed it to tell dad etc....def at home though and safe, keys are safe and hanging in cupboard at home.
yeah its only done 9000km i think, engine runs true just has a little rattle noise if say in 4 gear at low revs and under load then you wind on throttle....i guess its at the time when you would expect a car to ping, the motor rattles a little...sounds like a chain rattling...im a complete noob to motorbike engines so not sure exactly, prob nothing.
just worried re fuel tank as its got fuel sitting in it from 18+ months ago...praying its not rusted out, there has never been leaks in the past so hopefully its fine.
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The tank should be okay if there is fuel still in it. Normally the damage is done when they dry out completely. I always park my steel tanked bikes with a little premix in the tank. Regardless of oil injection and the extra oil in the premix the bikes will fire up and run quite okay if needed ;) That manual was the 1 that came with my mine under the seat also ;)
Tex, I'll try and hunt up a KL manual ;)
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Tex, I'll try and hunt up a KL manual
Thanks Doc! Don't go to too much trouble though, it's not urgent. ;) (Sorry 'bout the thread hijack everyone...)
Tex
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Found the key today in with the stuff i had purchased from US about 18 months ago. I could have sworn the key was in mildura with bike and parents but after they searched heaps to no avail i was stumped....glad i found it today.
will get it sent transported down in the next week. :)
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Bikes being picked up from parents house in Mildura today and will be in Melb very soon, went with Bike Nut transport in the end...seemed to have best pricing, insurance and allowed two helmets and small shoe box site box of parts included free of charge.
Cheers
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it arrives today....quick snap my mum took before the transport company picked it up.
looking forward to getting home from work today :)
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/182933_10150093180231619_674836618_6737331_6030021_n.jpg)
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Bike arrived safe and sound yesterday, no hiccups at all.
Spent last night flicking through the owners manual that i at one point thought had lost, also tucked in their were about 5 rego stickers fro 75,76,77 and some 80's etc. This gave me orig rego which is great as im guessing like with cars in VIC you can seek old rego's and purchase if available.
Tomorrows plan is to do some basic stuff.
put some fuel in - now im guessing i will have to buy a little of the lead replacement stuff that you add to motors that were made to run on leaded ?...also is it ok to buy 98 octane unleaded ?
Buy some engine oil and some 2 stroke oil for the oil injection.
New spark plug.
that will keep me happy if i just do those things, give her a kick over see she starts like usual etc. Once im happy that it is running ok i think i will start pulling bits and pieces off. Starting with simple things like headlight, pegs, indicators, exhaust etc and begin to clean them all up.
I think seeing as though im in no rush to ride it and havent got my licence yet etc i might as well strip it back to frame (not pull motor apart though) and give the frame a new lick of paint. I noticed at super cheap auto at the moment they have a sandblasting attachment for air compressors and comes with 10kg of sand (top gun in link), i actually dont mind the 3rd set down as it includes nozzles for spot spraying etc. Has anyone used any of these type of home job sandblasting tools? good results ?
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search-results.aspx?keywords=sand+blast&look=GO (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search-results.aspx?keywords=sand+blast&look=GO)
Other option i guess is to out source and get someone to sandblast and powder coat in one go.
im guessing most ppl would reccommend PC over rattle can painting of frame ?
Cheers in advance for any advice.
Pic of bike in melbourne safe and sound
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180421_10150093896241619_674836618_6742412_5753377_n.jpg)
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I look forward to seeing the progress Jaderd. One thing though, don't worry about the lead replacement stuff, leaded or unleaded makes little difference with the 2 strokes. Octane rating does however so use the premium fuels whenever possible ;)
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Cheers thanks for the advice....i got some other advice that mentioned dont worry about running premium as the old carby bikes are tuned for around 91 octane ? i was going to run BP ultimate (98)....would that be ok you think ?
also from reading i was thinking i may make the tank up at a 50:.25 ratio with 2 stroke oil, just incase the oil pump isnt functioning as good as in prior years, does this sound ok as a bit of a safety precaution ? i know if not using oil pump just normal mix that should be a 50:1 so im guessing even if pump working perfect it may only be a tiny bit too much oil which is ok ?
Cheers
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Never fear. A bit too much oil won't bother anything thing excepting maybe the neighbors but in all honesty I doubt there'd be anything wrong with the oil pump. It's an item that's has the stigma of unreliability but it is extremely rare for a 2 stroke oil pump to fail. Failures are usually caused by incorrect adjustment or people simply forgetting the oil and letting the tank run dry. Pretty sure there is a method for adjusting the throttle and oil pump in the manual. If not I have a full service manual and it's bound to be in that ;)
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cheers guys,
Today consisted of buying
more garage shelving
elf transmission oil
penrite hi-performance 2 stroke oil (dont need yet)
carby cleaner
sandblast gun
fuel.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0848.jpg)
Started by having a good look at the bike as never really bothered as a kid.
Then pulled out spark plug and cleaned...as was only replaced a few years ago.
took off tank and pulled apart the fuel tap thing and cleaned everything and replaced a few rings/seals inside.
Then put a few hundred ml in the tank and shook it around for a few mins then dumped that fuel out, didnt seem to be too much gunk in it.
Fitted tap back on and put litre or two in, kicked the bike over and it started on the second kick, ran it for a bit and realised the clutch would not work.
Dumped the tranny oil and pulled apart the clutch cover area, had a look at it all, pulled it apart and figured out how it all works, quite simple really. Saw how the clutch cable pulls on a spiral type setup which makes it come outwards and push the pin in towards the engine, im guessing when running the clutch pin is “pushed” out so when you pull the clutch lever it pushes the pin in and should engage the clutch ? I was able to pull the pin all the way out and wipe it clean, it seemed fine no abrasions on it etc, slid back in not a problem. Set it all back up, adjusted the clutch cable at the hand lever so has more play in future. I popped the rubber cab off so i could see the adjustment screw on clutch and could see that when you engage the clutch it was pushing the pin in/out etc so seems to be doing its job at that point.
Then refilled with 1.2l of the elf oil, went for a ride and the clutch still has no effect at all, though is tight to pull in and you can look down and see it spin in and out (cap is off)….does it take time to work re. being a wet clutch or what should I check next ?
Noticed also that there appears to be an air lock in the autolube so I will bleed that tomorrow and add around 1-2% oil to the fuel so it will end up being a little oil rich once autolube working properly etc.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0855.jpg)
Noticed a small exhaust leak (rust) directly out from the cylinder near the bend, will prob take exhaust off tomorrow and start sandblasting it and testing the supercheap auto sand blast gun out.
Cheers
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I'd say your clutch plates are stuck together giving you no clutch and the extra heavy lever J. A common thing on bikes that sit for any period of time. Best bet is pull the oil pump and clutch cover off on the left side. Drain the gearbox oil first naturally ;) Once the kickstart and outer cover are removed the clutch is staring you in the face. Pull the clutch pressure plate off by removing the 5 retaining bolts remove the springs. Note the sequence and order the plates are fitted. Top and bottom or fiirst and last plate must be fibre type and not steel. There are also steel rings between the plates so note those also. The plates should be cleaned (kero or metho is fine) and the steels if very very smooth or polished looking can be sand blasted to roughen them up and help the clutch bite. Reassemble all the parts in reverse order, bleed out the little bubble in the oil line when you reinstall the pump and all should be good ;) You will more than likely need another clutch cover gasket or you can make you own from '0.80mm' thick gasket paper available at Supercheap or wherever.
PS, If you need a service/workshop manual l have a good used genuine kawa item for $25 ;)
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cheers doc.
All sounds pretty straight forward, just noticed that yeah the enitre pump comes out with the overall casing then...so all of the pump aspects are disconnected so then can be bled once re connected.I found this link that mentions how to do it, just checking if its correct it states the following.
Link http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/46324-1975-f11-bogs-when-starting-out.html (http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/46324-1975-f11-bogs-when-starting-out.html)
what it stated to do
"The engine must run to bleed the oil pump. First, Put 2-3% 2 stroke oil in the gas tank (as in premixing. That's 2-3% of the ammount of gas in the tank) Then fill the oil tank with 2 stroke oil. Then open the inlet banjo (1) and close it when the oil comes through. Start the bike and let it idle while you turn the oil pump lever on full by hand. The oil should now be pumping slowly through the lines. When the lines are filled up, you're good to go.
Number 3 lets oil in with the gas and number 5 lubes the crank. Not sure what number 2 is, but it might be a bleed valve. I have barely looked at my F11 yet. I'll look into it.
Personally, I would pull the cylinder and have a look at the piston and cylinder walls before doing anything of the above.
For the picture, right click on the pic, choose properties, copy the URL address. When you post here, click on the little picture of the sun and mountain above the text box. A new box will open with an address line that starts with http//:. Remove the http and paste the line you copied from properties in there. Then click OK."
(http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/attachments/vintage-motorcyle-info/12173d1179638583-1975-f11-bogs-when-starting-out-pump.jpg)
Cheers.....ill grab the manual off you to, please PM me details re how you want the cash :)
really appreciate the quick feedback...gives me a plan of attack for tomorrow morning :)
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PM sent. Maybe start a new F11 project thread in the Kawasaki section of the forum ;) cheers
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Is a moderator able to move the whole thread into the Kawasaki thread area ? save starting all over again.
Cheers
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I'm sure if we ask nicely Mr Ozvmx could grant that wish ;) graeme?? ;D
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Did a little bit today, adjusted the clutch properly as per owners manual.
Bled the oil pump which released the air bubble nicely....first added around 1-2% oil to the fuel to be sure all safe etc.
Was going to attempt the clutch fix but decided i would wait until i get the manual off Doc as i dont feel confident just yet and would rather some visual instructions in front of me
Removed the exhaust, one of the studs came out as the nut was rusted on, have it soaking in some wd40 now so should pop it off soon no prob and screw stud back in. Noticed that the cylinder was visible and had enough space to stick my finger in, top of the cylinder felt very rough prob carbon buildup i guess ?.
The exhaust has a few pin holes in it at the bend, so once i sand blast it i will see how prevalent they become then figure the best way to fix them, future father in law has a welder so will see how it goes.
other than that i think thats it for now.
Have purchased 5 or 6 bits of memorabilia of the F11 from ebay, some articles and sales brochures, laminate them and hang them around garage.
Took off front and rear guards and built another shelf and affixed it to the wall so can store everything.
some pics below....old helmets im just going to rub back and paint for display purposes.
bike just fits in garage with my other hobby, Toyota corolla AE82 twincam, running the Yamaha built 4age motor.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0858.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0860.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0861.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0862.jpg)
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Have done some research into powder coating versus painting and i really dont have the skills honed to properly paint the bike the way i would want it to look and like some ppl mentioned on the forum here sometimes painting can add up and really not be that better off cash wise.
I have decided as i am in no rush that i will strip the bike completely and get everything powdercoated (everything possible)
the front mud flap and rear tail i will do the orig silver color.
The seat i have decided to spray with VHT vinyl paint, black so it atleast looks a bit more like the orig one, as i cant justfiy the $100 + dollars for an orig cover...not just yet.
Doc is sending me the workshop manual in next day or two so i can start pulling everything to bits.
I bought 2 divider container boxes to hold all nuts/bolts so i can label them.
as for the wiring thats the thing im a little stressed about re remembering where it all goes....i will label all with some ties etc and thinking of pinning it out on a 5X2 foot piece of ply board i have in shed....atleast i can then stand it up against a wall out of the way and it not get all tangled....
looking forward to all this ahead.
Once motor out i will start asking more q's re. should i pull head off and inspect / rebuild ? or leave it as it seems fine and is pretty easy to pull a motor out of a bike at anytime compared to a car etc.
Cheers guys
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found a tread pattern i like.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_hKkYZ9GWzKA/TUE1qGrFUvI/AAAAAAAAGfg/UfHjcLd7qxY/s400/jackpine_01.jpg)
They call in Continental twinduro....although i think its actually the TKC80
http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/themes/motorcycletires/enduro/tkc_80/tkc_80_en.html (http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/motorcycle/themes/motorcycletires/enduro/tkc_80/tkc_80_en.html)
not sure of price but love the tread pattern.
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Did a little bit of work tonight, everything came apart pretty easy....WD40 works a treat.
bikes getting naked nice and fast.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0865.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0864.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0866.jpg)
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just purchased proper rubbers for petcock rebuild, one i put in temporary were not an exact fit.
looking forward to stripping it down further over the weekend
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Quick update, spent most of yesterday ripping bike to bits, all went smoothly other than 2 breakages.
- one screw - bottom one on clutch casing near gear lever stripped.....all the screws seem to be a real soft compound i reckon ? Managed to get it undone with some pliers no prob.
- Broke one of the oil lines :( reckon i hardly bumped it and it snapped, noticed in the picture i posted earlier in the thread that the same one was snapped in the pic i grabbed from some other forum....might be an easy common one to break ?. I figure its prob a little hard to repair and costly so i think ill just buy another one as theres one on ebay although incl postage will cost around $75.00 :(
everything else went well, majority of rubbers all still ok.
Also now that i have stripped it down im pretty certain i am not going to restore it to orig condition.....i think i have a mental problem that every car or piece of equipment i own i need to modify it and make it my own in some way, in regard to the bike it wont be any cutting or welding or anything, basically just the use of color will get it how i want it i think.
heres some pics
All the nuts and bolts, converting the tatty paper notes to stickers to go on top of box above item
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0937.jpg)
Naked and nice
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0934.jpg)
All parts fitted nicely
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0930.jpg)
Made a quick wooden base to stop it rocking...sits pretty flat anyway
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0928.jpg)
The broken line...i figured the plastic had broken but was actual metal...
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_0901.jpg)
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Long time no update,
been flat out the last two weeks.
i dropped the motorbike seat off at my uncles 2 weeks ago so it was there ready whenever we decided to do it.
Then got married, then a week in vanuatu and now back at work :(
Dropped into my uncles last night to pull seat apart, old cover was one he made 15+ yrs ago for dad.
45 minutes later we shared a beer with the completed seat, the man is a machine...40+ years motor trimming i guess makes most jobs quick and easy.
very happy with the result as its what i was hoping it would come out like.....uncle happened to have the pressed pattern vinyl laying around from doing bike seats back in 70's/80's.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat2.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat3.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat4.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat5.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/seat6.jpg)
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Spent an hour or two pulling rest of bike apart,
all came apart easy.
A few surprises, i had always figured the front forks were leaking oil as often there was slight oil and dust on the forks over the years.....once removed i slipped back the dust cover boot and pushed them in out out 50+ times even upside down with no leaking....could it be they were never leaking, or are fully out of oil ? Should i just drop past a motorbike shop to get their opinion ? or does anyone know of any home tests? as i would rather not pull them apart if i dont need to.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/frontfork.jpg)
did a quick sand (1200 grit) and then polish with drill of one rear shock...15 mins or so and started to look great, alot more time and they will be great. They feel good shock condition wise so will use them until they die.
big difference from quick polish
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/rearshocks.jpg)
so now all parts are removed and thinking about whether to DIY all sand blasting, sanding back and rattle can spraying or out source and do it all via powder coating, thing is i want this to be a budget resto, will see how i go.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/allparts.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/bikebench.jpg)
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Spent a few hours yesterday playing around.
Have got back to bare metal some of the frame
sanded then polished up oil pump cover, will begin to do all the other cases soon, next will be the clutch cover as already off and in much need of a clean / sand / polish
investing in a crappy $30 240v power drill for getting frame back to bare metal, dont want to ruin my 18V lithium ion etc.
Also purchased an Ozito brand rotary tool includes accessories and 1m extension, cant fault it, at only $40 its a good $100 + cheaper than dremel equiv, only reason i bought ozito rotary tool is because i have used and abused my ozito drill and it never misses a beat 2 yrs on.
Also got a 350watt SCA 200mm bench grinder and added a 150mm calico wheel and polish compound which has worked a treat so far.
Seeing that im able to get things back to bare metal without too much difficulty just using wire wheel dont think ill bother PC, i should be able to get satisfactory results with rattle can job and save myself a fair bit of cash to put towards other parts for bike.
Sideburn mags arrived last week, some good reading and pics, and grabbed latest edition of VMX yesterday for more bedtime entertainment.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/sideburn.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/OzitonSCA.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/leftbare.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/rightbare.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/polish1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/polish2.jpg)
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27 parts should be ready for pickup from Sanblasting and PC 30 % gloss finish.
parts below that were dropped off + kick stand & front fork covers / headlight bracket which im pretty sure i wont use as i ordered some black universal headlight brackets so i can leave the shiny top of front forks visible.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/de5565f5.jpg)
headlight brackets i bought look something like this
(http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/m/m7giv2PrPVMAcdTHaOLQ28A/140.jpg)
also looking at getting some smaller indicators that run 6v...have chatted with guy from this website
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyindicators.htm (http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyindicators.htm)
regarding these indicators 2.5" long by 1 1/8th at widest....4 X incl postage from UK for around $80 aus. also found nicer ones i like that the guy can setup for around 25$ per indicator...anyone have anyother ideas ? must be 6V, smaller in size than stock and short stem as want to use the spare holes on headlight bracket above for the fronts and rears in normal mount positions just in closer to the rear tail.
(http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/Indicatorunivblack.JPG)
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27 parts should be ready for pickup from Sanblasting and PC 30 % gloss finish.
parts below that were dropped off + kick stand & front fork covers / headlight bracket which im pretty sure i wont use as i ordered some black universal headlight brackets so i can leave the shiny top of front forks visible.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/de5565f5.jpg)
headlight brackets i bought look something like this
(http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/m/m7giv2PrPVMAcdTHaOLQ28A/140.jpg)
also looking at getting some smaller indicators that run 6v...have chatted with guy from this website
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyindicators.htm (http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyindicators.htm)
regarding these indicators 2.5" long by 1 1/8th at widest....4 X incl postage from UK for around $80 aus. also found nicer ones i like that the guy can setup for around 25$ per indicator...anyone have anyother ideas ? must be 6V, smaller in size than stock and short stem as want to use the spare holes on headlight bracket above for the fronts and rears in normal mount positions just in closer to the rear tail.
(http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/Indicatorunivblack.JPG)
I have that style of indicator in alloy finish for $32 a pair if thats of interest. Cheapie chrome headlight mount brackets are $22. PM me. I'm in Melbourne.
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Spent a couple of hours today making some progress.
Through the week the hex bolts arrived and so did the headlight brackets so that was exciting, hex screws fit perfect and are specific for the F11B which makes life easy, cheap american dollar is a bonus in buying currently also as basically all parts are US located.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/d50eb595.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/245014fd.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/bf0a58d2.jpg)
So today i had a go at one of the front forks, cleaned it down, went over it all by hand with 320 grit then 800 grit paper, then gave her a polish with drill attachment and then hand with microfibre cloth, result came out ok, i will go over it with some lighter grade paper ending in like a 1500 or something which should take out some slight swirls visible up close. Vast improvement over the stock dirty look.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/03facb24.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/f9ec4939.jpg)
then cleaned the front guard and gave it a quick going over with some 320 grit, also cleaned the underside which is perfect paint wise (black) and wont need a respray which is great. The rear tail though i might do top and bottom in the silver as the inner guard at rear protects most of it anyway.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/639284b6.jpg)
All poweder coating is complete so i will prob get that first thing tomorrow morning....its great the place opens at 7am so doesnt effect getting to work ontime etc.
im enjoying the build throughly so far and not minding the fact it may be many months until able to be ridden......i need to get my license first anyway :)
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quick update, i picked up all my parts from the powder coater, very happy with the results esp the choice for satin (30%) gloss, its not too out there and saying look at me im shiny, but enough to show its all 100% perfect and new looking.
So frame and swingarm are living inside now out of the way due to space in garage and not wanting to knock them over onto concrete floor etc.
The rest are boxed up wrapped in towels awaiting reinstall in time.
Made one final purchase before stopping on the buying of bits and pieces for a while as i have ran out of cash :( the last of my "car/bike parts" cash stash has dwindled down so now i can only spend what I allow myself and the missus to have as our weekly "kitty" of cash whilst rest goes towards house / holiday savings.
Most of what i need to do now anyway just involves cleaning, cleaning, more cleaning and sanding / painting / polishing of various parts which should take me the next few weekends of spare time.
Final part i did grab was a NOS original factory option classifies as the "offroad" optional front fork brace. One came up on ebay, incl postage from US only $25 AU dollars so thought i would grab it as i like how it looks and should shine up ok.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fc27dac3.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/ddf4a03f.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/2264a2c7.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/d2ad9d35.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/2489cdb9.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/73ce9b49.jpg)
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didnt get to touch the bike over the weekend as had wifes sisters 21st and mothers day on sunday where i cooked up a feast for the mother in law.
today was a successful day though...more cash spent lol.
my exhaust has surface rust all over it really and the rust in the u bend is all the way through producing a fair few pin holes which basically means the 180 degree bend needs replacing.
Contacted 3 motorcycle repair places in melb and they all told me the same place for exhaust repairs so must be the go to company. Quoted $25 for the bend (obviously mandrel) which is fair then 2 hrs labour with bike to ensure pefrect fitment etc @ $75 an hour so $175 total :(
kept hunting on ebay and found the best condition stock exhaust yet and i won the bid with the only bid at $22 US dollars and $92 US for postage so around $110 AU dollars deliverd to my door :)
very happy, had a few email chats with the seller prior to bidding to gain postage cost, didnt expect to get it for 22$ which was a bonus.
pics below....looks to me as if its NOS been sitting in shed really as no dints scratches or rust at all!!!
Doesnt contain baffle though i have that already, looking forward to its arrival
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/NewExhaust.jpg)
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Great story Jaderd ...keep at it..
Cant wait to see it finished..
Your weaving some magic there.. 8)..Good for you !!
cheers A
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fork brace arrived yesterday, quite a nice little piece of kit, look forward to cleaning it up this weekend.
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Did a quick hour tonight in garage,
had a look at the gasket set i bought in nov 2008 to see if it was a full kit...which to my surprise it was which is great, i got it for $30 in 08.
took the right case off, everything looks so clean and new in there...the goodness of oil i guess.
will pull clutch apart as pretty sure plates are stuck as clutch wouldnt work when running......is there a way to check without undoing all the bolts etc ?
started degreasing the engine case.
might be a stupid question, i couldnt see in the workshop manual having a quick flick through, how do i remove the tacho cable fully out so that i can sand and polish easier ?
any info would be great
cheers
- yesterday my sticker arrived ready for tank.
- and also my off road brace arrive, gave it a quick 5 min polish with California custom polish it came up pretty good from one once over....i think ill light sand it before next polish.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/d55e762f.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/e3b5f482.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5232a742.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/122da353.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/31c1a214.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/7f7f6fd1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/127dc908.jpg)
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Cheers for info mate, much appreciated.
as for tacho cable i really should have just though about it, ofcourse its the same as the instrument ent where the cable becomes square in shape and just pushed in, just need to spray a little WD40 in there to loosed it up and it slid straight out, made sanding and polishing case alot easier.
Sanded and polished rights case, came up ok, still not happy with it, i think i might go back at it with some 800 grit as there are still some "deeper" blemishes by the look, then hit it with some 1200 then polish and should get better result.
took left case off, cant believe how clean inside....from what i can see the electrical side of it seems clean and new looking so not sure ill bother getting a closer look at it at the moment.
Now im really contemplating as to whether i should take the head off etc...mainly for the purpose of painting, it would be alot easier and i could clean up the head studs better etc.
What are ppls thoughts....engine only has 9,000km on it, though im in no rush to get it back together (starting winter in oz so garage time is preferred over riding time) so maybe worth while pulling it down and inspecting / changing what needs to be.
Sprocket teeth appear to be fairly worn out, reccomend changing ? or are they designed with the slight hook shape ? i didnt think they were.
Thanks in advance for any advice.... also anyone know what the scratches would be from on the points case cover if thats what its called & also the 3 drill holes that go in a few mm (havent looked in workshop manual yet, prob explained in there)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/af1ff916.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fc46c2c2.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/7cd69b5b.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/0b6ec2e1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/e76b8f6f.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/c9879f64.jpg)
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Drill holes are there to balance it at factory.... ole mate
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Looks like you're making good progress. Is the F11B gonna be a show bike, or is it going to get dirty? There's a vinduro at Tallarook at the end of the month... ;)
The sprockets should NOT have hooked teeth. That one looks pretty worn to me.
BTW, does your uncle still do motor trimming stuff?
Tex
PS. This thread probably needs to continue under Kawasaki now.
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nice update for ya.
exhaust arrived from Sidney Montana USA.
i swear its been sitting on a shelf for 35 yrs....swear its lucky to have had a years use!!, has a tag on it stating 75 F11B so must have been in storage
$22 for it......$90 postage so still cheap around $110 AU
came within 7 days :) no dings, rust or anything at all really, basically pristine, a lot better than what i expected, im now a very happy man.
Look a new Edge Trimmer
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/1dc3031d.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3f723b68.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/e1535d23.jpg)
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You little RIPPER...good old vintage -still cheap as chips !! 8) :P
cheers A
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hello jaderd
welcome to the FORUM a fantastic brains trust where you can get answers to anything bike related,
i have been following your resto and cannot wait to see the finished product.
mxfool ;D
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Cheers guys,
Tex, thanks for the email you sent me, it was me who emailed re. Tallarook and attending as spectator, pretty sure i will make it to Tallarook on sunday prior to the start so can checkout some bikes and watch the cold start.
Bike will end up being club / vintage reg and used once a week maybe.
Is a moderator able to relocate this thread into the Kawasaki forum area ? save me re doing it all.
Cheers
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Evening all, sitting watching footy and thought i would see if a moderator was able to move this to the kawasaki section for me, would be much appreciated if possible,
thank you
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quick update, havent done alot lately, cleaned up my rear baffle etc...will prob paint it black to match exhaust or leave it bare metal for a bit of contrast...dunno yet.
have saved up my meager allowance i give myself and the missus to buy some parts.
Have grabbed things that i know i will need for the rebuilding of the bike, my orig stuff was missing or broken etc.
pics below
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fe0a1a06.jpg)
Kick Start Boss, my old one had snapped at the pin
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/56883901.jpg)
Rear Chain Tensioner, mine had some homemade jobs on there
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/09113c2a.jpg)
Front and rear wheel bearings
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5801b709.jpg)
Vintage Cross Bar pad....similar colors to bike with the blue in their
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/855ae771.jpg)
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This arvo i spent hour or two and did the second fork so that i could do a mock piece up of some of the front end, need to see how it will look to keep me inspired and moving on.
Happy with how it looks, some pics below, the tacho n speedo i am going to drop the bracket lower by around 5-8cm so that it sits flush with the top triple as opposed to stock, this will fit better as i have/will drop the headlight down so that is more inline with the tank/seat/rear tail...didnt like how it sat up high.
Will also let the forks pop through the top triple by maybe an inch to lower the front end slightly.
Just doing this mock up has made me heaps enthused to keep doing more of the cleaning/sanding/polishing/painting that is needed before any actual putting back together.
Cheers
*note headlight brackets were upside down in garage pics, rectified in pics inside house.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/a83fa264.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/93e3f57d.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/ef901b09.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/af6e44b1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/18d1ec90.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/7e21be15.jpg)
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Arvo all,
just had a closer look at rear sprocket, i am aware the front is dead and needs replacing.
Please have a look at pics below and let me know your thoughts on the rear, to me there looks to be slight wear
to take sprocket off im guessing i have to bend back down the "safety" tabs or whatever they may be called to allow socket on ?
is it minimal wear & ok to continue to use?
Is it ok to reverse the sprocket then put back on so the wear then isnt a factor ?
or is it best to replace ?
budget build in mind also :)
If replacing is best im guessing my chain may also be beyond normal stretch limits (still to check) thus needing all 3 items. Is there kits you can get containing all three that may have different tooth counts and pitch ? i dont know alot about sprocket / chain setups but from reading a little; pitch is another thing i should look at (what are pitch benefits etc..holding chain on better?)....understand the addition and reduction of teeth aspect fine.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Pics below
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/34c12845.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/8723aae9.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/14a9a8a0.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b2b71a59.jpg)
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Hi my though is the rear teeth are in good shape and only needs a new chain i have had worse and it worked fine for a long time get a good quality chain looking forward to see how the resto unfolds.
mxfool
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Cheers mate, i thought the rear sprocket looked fine too.
got some feedback from other ppl on other forums which were similar, some said if chaging one sprocket best change both although may not have to all the time, but everyone has said definitely change the chain as its a stretched chain that eats sprockets etc.
So i will compromise to save costs, i will change front sprocket and chain and leave rear sprocket as is for now.
Thanks for feedback mate.
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Keep at it Jaderd, :P
Doc an old forum member is also watching the progress. :)
cheers A
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cheers, i think Doc was pointed out to me at the tallarook vinduro ?, i was chatting to a guy who was talking about someone (pretty sure it was doc) and saying he has an F11 or had in afew in the past etc. He was riding some other bike on the day
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cheers, i think Doc was pointed out to me at the tallarook vinduro ?, i was chatting to a guy who was talking about someone (pretty sure it was doc) and saying he has an F11 or had in afew in the past etc. He was riding some other bike on the day
The Doc I write of is up near Brisbane,He has many posts on the forum in the Suzuki Topics ...Keep truck'n ..its going to be great..
cheers west oz
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Hi all quick update, have ordered some more Parts n hopefully win others on eBay, some required and others for both aesthetics and practicality. Quick question I know jack all about electric systems, I found a little 6v Ni-cd battery pack in an old remote control car. Could that work to test out my wiring system rather then setting up n charging the new lead acid one I have ?, could it work overall aswell instead of lead acid ? I'm guessing there must be something with amps etc that means this can't work as it seems too simple lol
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b9ebb6a0.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fa436382.jpg)
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not sure ill bother testing wires just yet, was getting ahead of myself in little details like indicators i would like when i have so much cleaning and polishing / painting that really needs to be done.
info from ppl and net has lead me to believe that 12 V indicators can be used not a problem as long as they are of an average size that you can swap bulbs over to a 6 V bulb. after hunting ebay etc i found some i like that are classified as mini indicators and from the pics on ebay it appears a standard 6 volt bulb should fit in, the case is 60mm X 47mm, so i snapped them up $25 inlc postage so pretty cheap. Its the tiny 12v indicators that you generally cannot interchange as the bulb is so small and no 6v bulbs are generally small enough....so fingers crossed.
also the 1wire, 2 wire and 3 wire aspects got me a bit stuck until i read that
1 wire = 1 wire signal, ground via bolt
2 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and generally bolt grounds also
3 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and 1 wire marker (i dunno what marker is)
these are two wire so should be ok.....current ones on bike are 1 wire rear, although the fronts do have two wire and seem to go back to a major ground from looking at the wiring diagram.
list of whats i have bought / on way soon
Steering Stem dust shield on way then i can properly put front end together...need some grease too
Petcock filter, current one crappy
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/d1827487.jpg)
7" mesh headlight guards, one for front to slip over headlight and mount on front hole of headlight bracket (headlight on middle hole)
spare one im going to experiment cutting it up and bending for a rear tail light cover
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/79d66cd9.jpg)
NOS speedo / tacho covers, slip on top has a slight lip on then stops glare i guess and other debris...more just for looks / wank factor
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/a020fa17.jpg)
Indicators - basic style, i didnt want complete round....bit more current era look, will sit on 3rd hole of headlight brackets, closest to bike -$25
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/indicators2.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/indicators1.jpg)
Honda CRF 450 handle bar guards - ebay $26.....shoulf fit fine, to paint black
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b75941cb.jpg)
How it sits currently, back in garage so can fiddle with it easier, made some space, fitted a few parts just mocked up to keep me inspired, liking how it looks, headlight needs to come up a little. Bought some digital vernier calipers the other day to make measuring things easier come putting things back together and testing chain slack etc.....just need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and i have most tools i need then.
Thanks again for input from ppl all the time, makes life easier and keeps me inspired
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3970c77a.jpg)
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Quick update, i have won everything on ebay as above other than the mesh headlight covers...they are fair sought after as fit all the holdens and fords of the late 60's early 70's and i like things cheap :)
ontop of the above i have been hunting different rear shocks on ebay all the time as my rear springs are rubbed back as all the chrome was rusted and pitted etc and the bump stops are shagged....from looking at them im pretty sure mine arent rebuildable, unless someone knows otherwise ? all i really want to do is pull apart to add bump stops.
Anyway they are 13.5" eye to eye and on ebay last night popped up some 1979 KL250 rear shocks 12$ buy now so i snapped them up, $25 or so once added postage.
they measure 15.5" eye to eye i think which should bring the back up a little as it has always looked like it sits fair low plus i weigh around 85kg so some extra height would be great. Cant find any stats on travel distance but id guess it would be more like 5" compared to the current 4"
So this weeks mail should have around 5 different items within which is great.
i picked up the CRF handle bar guards, quickly rubbed back (with a too low grade sandpaper so scratchy lol) and rattle canned black, they fit perfect but only look "ok" bit too new look and batman like.....i think i will just get others or whack them on when going riding, will see how they look with everything else once back together.
Cheers
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Nice amount of post arrived home today.
The petcock filter arrived along with the speedo/tacho NOS shieilds and the KL250 shocks.
Also i found some of the headlight mesh guards i have been looking for incl postage for a good price so they are on their way via express post.
Shocks are slightly longer which is great, best aspect though is that on the softest setting they are stiffer than the stock shocks on their hardest setting.
Springs are 60mm diameter as opposed to stock of 50mm. I like the way they look tougher and more enduro whilst stock looked a bit cruiser like. Also the springs themselves still have the chrome with no rust, the stock ones i had to actually sand the chrome away to get rid of rust and pitting, very happy with these new ones.
Does anyone know how to take apart the old tacho / speedo ? the silver back comes off no prob and then there appeared to be a fair bit of green like sealant stuff that sealed the screws that hold in the actual mechanism internal and then seals the internal case onto the plastic casing, it appears the plastic casing is then fused around the casing ? do you have to chip away the plastic to pull it apart then reseal it yourself afterwards ? they must be made to come apart. mine doesnt look exactly like this one below, mine seems trickier
http://users.telenet.be/tups/speedo.htm (http://users.telenet.be/tups/speedo.htm)
My dad was chatting with my uncle last night (his younger brother), he owns dad old 1972 suzuki TS185, he wants me to restore it once i have done mine and he will fund everything, so looking forward to that once mine is complete.
some pics below
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/8064d34f.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/2c8fe609.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/f135278a.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/1cecb5fa.jpg)
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Jaderd , you are doing a find job I must say. Be careful with milk those crates as they tend to colaspe under weight.
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ha, funny you should say that, it has already collapsed / spread open a little, this weekend i will look for something better to use, its still front heavy at moment so need something i can fill with weights or just hang some weights off back to balance it etc.
Cheers
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Quick update, 7" oversize headlight gaurds arrived today, mocked one up on front, fits fairly well, also sat guard on and tested gauges, all looked goo and new ears keep headlight in closer not sticking out from of gauges by much more than 2cm. Also tested throttle and brake lever, all fits perfect behind the CRF handle bar guards and they are looking better the more I add parts, once chunky front tread on should all tie in nicely, like the contrast of chrome n black
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/faed2922.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/f0f5a84d.jpg)
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Nice amount of post arrived home today.
Love it --so like Christmas :P 8) ;D
Does anyone know how to take apart the old tacho / speedo ? the silver back comes off no prob and then there appeared to be a fair bit of green like sealant stuff that sealed the screws that hold in the actual mechanism internal and then seals the internal case onto the plastic casing, it appears the plastic casing is then fused around the casing ? do you have to chip away the plastic to pull it apart then reseal it yourself afterwards ? they must be made to come apart. mine doesnt look exactly like this one below, mine seems trickier
mmm,I think they are vacuumed packed at the factory,not something easy for anyone to do :-X
She's lookin real a beauty Jaderd-Well Done 8)
cheers West Oz
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Cheers mate,
as for the gauges thats a little annoying.
the tacho worked fine, would still like to have painted face panel, though the speedo was just randomly jumping around from memory. Will see maybe once i reinstall it will work or the cable may be shagged and not gauge.
Either way i think in time i will get one of the trailtech computers and mount that, from the comparison chart best value for money is the Vector model, ultimate would be the voyager but bit to expensive i think.
That way the vector could count as speedo.....not sure if that would then enable road worthy ok ?
also has good features like lubrication, maintenance reminder and lap counters incase start any vinduros for some fun.
http://www.trailtech.net/computer_comparison.html (http://www.trailtech.net/computer_comparison.html)
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Ok so the indicators arrived and are sweet, but globes from my indicators fit perfect just that they are too tall by around 6-8 mm and i cant put the lense back on.
My globes say 6V17w on them so figured thats what they should be and thats what my wiring diagram states.
Now the wiring diagram for the road going F11 250 TR only has 6V8W globes which are nice and small and would fit in the indicators great, now the only difference in the two wiring diagrams that i could see other than horn diff of .5amp and different look of voltage regulator, seems to have an extra switch within it in the 250 TR (need someone to tell me if that is significant) is that the turn signal relay is then a 6V8W X2 + 1.5w
So do you think if i swapped relays to that 6V8w version which i guess is below and changed my globes to 6V8W in indicators they would fit and all would be sweet?
From looking at parts manual online for the 1974 F11 (same as mine) the relay is part no 27002-013 RELAY-TURN SIGNAL
no the part below on ebay states the same number: 6V/8W MATCHES KAW PART NO. 27002-010/013 though is in 6V8W which makes me think it is interchangeable ?
and this little chart makes me think if i change the turn signal relay and globes it will work, seems most kawasaki were the lower watt option
ure and Emgo # OEM Ref Application Volt/Watt
A. 66-86706 38310-428-671 Honda - most 6v models 6v/17w
B. 66-86716 27002-010/013 Kawasaki - Most 6v models 73-84 6v/8w
Any info would be great
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KAWASAKI-FLASHER-UNIT-6V-8W-/190554312339?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5dec0e93#ht_500wt_1156
(http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KAWASAKI-FLASHER-UNIT-6V-8W-/190554312339?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5dec0e93#ht_500wt_1156)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/indicatorrelay.jpg)
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i bought the relay...only 10 $ might work
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Scored this Joe Rocket replica super sport jacket on ebay last night, very cheap compared to orig retail price.
(http://tinyurl.com/3h264gp)
picking it up this evening.
Also i got my learners permit yesterday so very happy about that.
For those OS or interstate Victoria's process is quite good i think.
My learners permit i must hold for a min 3 months or a max 15 months before i go for my licence, once i get my licence i dont have to display any P plates as already have full car licence, just have the usual restrictions for 12 months like everyone else, 0.0 BAC, LAMS approved bike, no pillion etc, once the 12 months of actual licence are up the restrictions lift.
Ill keep my learners for a while as i prob wont be on the road for three months when in theory i could progress to full licence if wanted to, will see.
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also just won this baby on ebay dirt cheap.....under half the retail mentioned below and in as new condition!!
(http://shop.sydneycitymotorcycles.com.au/resources/6E/3950/picture/93/15042707.jpg)
http://shop.sydneycitymotorcycles.com.au/p/563472/dririder-climate-2-jacket-textile-black.html (http://shop.sydneycitymotorcycles.com.au/p/563472/dririder-climate-2-jacket-textile-black.html)
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Was thinking about my tacho / speedo and i know the speed doesnt work for some reason or another and is a vac sealed unit from factory.
Pretty sure i should be replacing tacho cable and speedo cable (might fix problem) etc but adds more cost
Sooooo
i bit the bullet and order a Trailtech Vapor (stealth black) Unit
does speed / Revs/ motor temp / ambient temp/ clock and heaps more, shift lights
internal 3v battery, to use the full backlight ad warning/ shift lights needs 12V
straight from trailtech they reccomend as the cheapest easiest is to use a standard 9V battery with connection from radioshack, hit it away and it will run the unit perfect with backlight etc for around 1 year....very cheap fix for 6V bike guys like me and you dont have to splice anything.
Complete kit including postage and Top mount dashboard only $170 fro ebay shop in the UK, pretty cheap and cheaper than the trailtech site without even including postage.
I measured my stock guage mount and the top mount i bought fits perfect using the left tacho mount hole and right speedo mount hole and clears the ignition perfect. I will wait until i get a replacement mount before i cut off the other tabs or i have another idea lined up for there use, will see what pans out....
all going well....wallet getting thin ;)
(http://www.trailtech.net/media/computers/vapor/vapor-standard-stealth.jpg)
(http://www.trailtech.net/media/protectors_dashboards/motorcycle_protectors_dashboards/motorcycle_protectors/022-TM_w450.jpg)
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For blue slip rego in NSW odometer has to work. cheers pancho.
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yeah im not sure in VIC, i will need to look through the ADR rules etc.
the vapor does have an ODO with no memory loss, permanent memory so may get around it, worst case i get some basic dials to use for RWC then rip off and go to vapor.
funny isnt it as the new technology digital would be far more accurate and safer than relying on an oldschool setup tha works temporarily or could stop at any time.
Cheers
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Just found this
Speedometer
Vehicles manufactured from 1 July 1988 and licensed buses and taxis of any age must be fitted with a functioning odometer and a speedometer calibrated in km/h.
from this doc
This Information has been provided by VIC Roads November 2009
Official Vehicle Standard Information - Roadworthiness Requirements
might be ok...especially re a bike....prob looks better on my part that i have fitted a new speedo / odo etc
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quick question,
i checked tolerances of rear swing arm bushes etc and are all fine to use.
what i would like to know is what grease to ppl reccomend for the following and can you use one type for all ?, some quick reading ive heard you need to watch drop point temps of grease,waterproof ness of it etc.
Wheel Bearings ?
Swing Arm ?
Steering head bearings ?
and any other stuff you think i need greased as i reinstall over next few months
any reccomendations on brand and type would be great and am budget oriented....its not going to be a daily motocross thrasher etc...
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back to indicators for a bit :)
spent some more cash lol, the other day i was looking on ebay for the 6V8W globes and harldy any came up and if they did they were over $5.00 each.
i had some other indicators in my watch list for ages and now that i have got the 6V8W flasher on the way i thought i would buy these indicators below at only $25 for 4 incl postage and the guy has heaps more sets they are 6V8W and include globes.
They mount different to the other ones i got so with my stock ones, the set i bought the other day, the relay and this set i think i have everything i need to get something working well
all for around $60.00 so not too bad.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b4d9f0f8.jpg)
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quick question,
i checked tolerances of rear swing arm bushes etc and are all fine to use.
what i would like to know is what grease to ppl reccomend for the following and can you use one type for all ?, some quick reading ive heard you need to watch drop point temps of grease,waterproof ness of it etc.
Wheel Bearings ?
Swing Arm ?
Steering head bearings ?
and any other stuff you think i need greased as i reinstall over next few months
any reccomendations on brand and type would be great and am budget oriented....its not going to be a daily motocross thrasher etc...
Belray waterproof grease suits all of the above, I use it for any grease point on my trials bike & haven't found anything better
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Brilliant Tony, that reinforced the feedback I got on some other forums, cheers
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quick update, bought some more stuff over weekend, grease and degreaser etc.
chain is currently soaking in degreaser to clean it up then ill check its tolerance, might be ok still.
degreased the motor and stripped all the black off in anticipation of repainting black again....but since the whole lot is bare now i like it alot better.
Also bit of a bonus i feel, the top cylinder head was painted black so has gone back to bare metal, though the bottom half with horizontal fins isnt painted black / gray it is black /gray metal i guess which i like and gives it a two tone look.
Its hard to see in the pics but looks good.
Also filed the fins, need to go over them with some light sandpaper and also the vertical fins although i like how it is coming along.
Painted the fenders, came out well, primer then 4 light coats of enamel, perfect 21 degrees painting with 2 X 500w halogens on them..
Also some other stuff came
- Other indicators, which the 6V8W globes from them fit straight into the 12V indicators i bought off ebay which i will use as i like the way they look better.
Kellys Enduro front fender bag arrived
NOS Front brake cable arrived
Pyramid Parts fork oil seal and fork dust boots arrived
Trailtech dash and top mount arrived.
Just waiting on Front sprocket and the little battery case i bought to hold the 9V battery to run the trailtech, it has an internal 3V battery but off that the backlight only runs at 10% and the shift lights dont work, so adding a 9V runs it for a good year or so and gives full backlight and shift lights and stays on for 20min after riding instead of quickly shutting off.
The trailtech mounted on the stock guage bracket fairly well, i also chucked on an old MX visor i had laying around as a shield for it, from the angle it mounts and riding position the whole thing can be seen no prob, especially with backlight, shift lights may be a bit out of view but will fill the space with light and be fine....i may ditch it if it looks wanky once fitted on with whole front end complete.
Some pics below
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/4c21d02b.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/7acc9c29.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/6c4e3b23.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/d1f389eb.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5d3ff9fc.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fdb89301.jpg)
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bought some 10w fork oil so i will replace the oil seals, dust boots and oil, decided on stock 10w as i think new oil will feel better than the 35+ yr stuff that is in there, also if it feels too soft once riding compared to the uprated rear i can do a small pvc pipe mod to stiffen a little.
also bought these for my "street" riding of the bike once complete. Shift Kicker motorcycle boot, though look full street, gave good reviews etc
(http://www.cyclegear.com/images/streetapparel/shift_kicker_shoe_blkwht_LG.jpg)
and for the small amount of offroad riding the best value i think are the fly maverick boots, i think i would just get the adventure ones over the MX ones, adventure are an 11" boot 3 strap, MX are the higher 4 strap ones
(http://img2.prosperent.com/images/250x250/www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/orprod/400/f/fly_10_boo_mav_mx_blk.jpg)
(http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/2010-Fly-Racing-Maverik-Shorty-Boot-Black.gif)
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Little bit happened over last few days
got my official VJMC membership pack which is great, bike will be permit rego'd through VJMC once complete
reinstalled the swingarm and torqued it up
reinstalled the steering stem and it feels a good level of tightness, will recheck prior to riding etc
undid top bolt off forks, took out and cleaned the springs, both springs were identical lengths which is good neither have sagged.
from pouring out oil and releasing bottom screw i got out around 135ml from each fork, figure there is atleast the other 30ml or so sitting in and around all the aspects of the fork so leads me to believe again that they were never leaking.
Dont have a big enough allen key so didnt replace oil seals yet, refilled with 170ml of 10W oil per fork, all back together and feel great.
Fitted forks and torqued up
Fitted gauge assembly, cleaned instrument cluster wiring with circuit spray etc
fitted headlight and oversize cover
fitted handlebars and torqued up.
Liking how it is all looking and am at least able to straddle bike to see how it will be, the trailtech is perfectly viewable from seating angle whilst still protected.
boss was throwing out a single bed egg shell top, she thought of me n my shed work and gave it to me, works great.
Cleaned chain and checked tolerance, tolerance for 10kg weight on chain and 21 link measure is 314mm to 324mm, mine measure 327mm so def gone :( so i need to buy a chain.
Big thankyou to Graham from OZVMX, helped him out with some pics of rear rim n spokes and some F11 articles, he gave me the oil line that i need as mine snapped....save me a good 70$ which can go towards chain, great bloke.
getting excited now coming together well.
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/693b22a0.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/cfe2cf8f.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/01c911d2.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/be6eb9bb.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/f0036e82.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/ed5e0ced.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/cbab4445.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fc171d6c.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5c0d57f3.jpg)
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Spent today getting into bike,
Got my 525 chain all sorted, its Tsubaki japanese brand, cut back to 100 links for $72 which is great, pick up Tuesday night
Also got some Dririder Assen gloves off ebay they were size 3XL and won them for $1.25c Fit perfect which is great.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3e820686.jpg)
The guy then gave me a 8XL Dririder waterproof jacket for free !!, as the gloves and jacket were thrown in with bike he bought and he has no need, the 8XL is heaps to big for me im sure ill find someone who wants it at a cheap price :)
After researching tyres i settled on some Pirelli MT43 as they are a great on / off road and brilliant for letting down to low psi for bush trips. Got them at Pablos tyres in mulgrave, great bloke scotty and nice shop with some vintage Maicos hanging around to look at.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/6d5866b1.jpg)
Then spent today cleaning and doing a basic polish of brake hub Front and Rear.
Pulled apart all apects of brakes, cleaned, regreased changed some seals etc, cleaned all aspects of wheel bearings / axles, repacked bearings etc. I decided not to worry about replacing the bearings as they were perfect i will keep the ones i bought incase need in future.
Fitted rear wheel so as a roller and fitted shocks and torqued up, fitted front axle and torqued up.
Was great to be able to hop on the bike and bounce up and down a little, rear shocks are nice and stiff the balance of stiffness up front to rear seems fine, once motor and everything in will reassess, may need stiffer springs in front or extra spacer to make stiffer.
Cheers.....i want it all together already :)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/293627b5.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/24ce2e83.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/9817bdd0.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/20222019.jpg)
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Looks good Jarerd ;) The F11 though not the most popular is/was probably the best 250 road/trail of the era.
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Cheers Doc, yeah i have read a fair few review, have some old orig test articles from old mags that say the same.
i have some more stuff in the mail including some basic fork guards to replace the little ones i made up that are ziptied on for extra protection etc.
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Jarerd. It's always a good feeling when you have the wheels back on . Dam site easier to work on also ;)
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yeah, from a person with zero knowledge of drum brakes i was surprised how simple they are in design and removal etc, yet do their job very well. my front brake i remember never released after engaging and was stiff as, now its perfect and smooth.
Really happy with the rear shock setup, looks alot tougher than stock, raised rear maybe 1 inch and alot stiffer and they are on the softest setting.
Motor really just needs some more light sanding, then polishing then i can chuck it back in.
Quick question - i need to pull clutch apart as its stuck at moment and replace front sprocket. From researching easiest way to remove sprocket is using the chain to put tension on sprocket whilst chocking rear wheel from spinning or with a tie down etc ?
as for the clutch to hold it you are supposed to have a special tool, what can be done instead ? can you use a tie down wrapped tight round clutch basket then have that fixed to a point ? Is it easier to remove clutch basket once motor in the bike ?
If the clutch basket job is easier when in frame i will put motor back in during the week.
Still waiting on sprocket from US, was posted on 27th July apparently so should be this week i think
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Hi Jaderd,
If you are only trying to free up the clutch plates,there is no special tool needed.
Undo the 10mm bolts and take the bolts and springs out,if you find the clutch basket turning get a rag a jam it between the clutch gear and the gear on the end of the crank,this will hold it from spining.
If you want to go further I have used a oil filter remover ( like a set of vise grips ) to hold the inner basket while undoing the nut.
How did you get the paint off the fins and crankcases.
Graham
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Cheers Graham, that is everything i needed to know, thanks mate.
as for the paint removal i was at autobarn looking for paint stripper (the gel type) as its a bit easier to use, and i found the same brand paint stripper in aerosol form, it was brilliant i still taped up wiring from engine and also plugged up exhaust and inlet holes then sprayed what i wanted. Being in aerosol you could be really accurate and easily adjust the flow. Dont think it was that cheap maybe $17 for a 500gm can which i used prob 70% of it doing 3 coats on the engine, could prob have done a 4th but by then i was sick of the process lol, prob still a few harsh stuck on bits on paint on there that i need to sand off.
Between the fins from a top view you can still see some black paint, fairly hard to get in their, and i also light sanded the fins using some sandpaper wrapped around an old toothbrush that i filed down to a tight fit etc.
ill hit the fins again with some light sanding and the whole motor before polishing the motor. Only the outside cases will be really polished and shiny the motor may not get that shiny/may not want it full shiny.
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ok got home tonight, looked at the motor and thought, bugger it, im going to crack the head and have a look see / clean up.
so for all those with the tens of years worth more experience than me what do you see.
i have done a basic clean of the head ? it look ok, notice that its not completely smooth it does have like a slight sandy grain texture on most of it, appears like how it was cast ? and is normal ?
what is the easiest way to take the main part off, it says to use rubber sledge and tap away, i used some rolled up shirt and normal hammer lol, no go so far and dont want to tap too hard, is there another way to lever / loosen it off ? do i really need to take it off, all i really want to do is clean the top of cylinder, is that possible how it is, am afraid of bits of carbon falling everywhere....have vaccuum cleaner going at same time ?
cylinder seems to make a nice fit when sealing top with hand etc.....so i feel it would be fine once heats up and fits proper etc.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/6ddc2a07.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/e398bc53.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/09b94a8b.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/07ff59f1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5bc98f1e.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b974e149.jpg)
Cheers any info welcome.
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Dont think im going to bother with removing the base cylinder.
Watched some videos and read heaps of articles / forums etc on when to replace rings / piston etc.
my consensus i think is that how it looks is typical / perfect regarding carbon build up etc.
from looking at the piston via exhaust port there is basically zero discoloration / blowby on the piston, zero scoring on piston or sleeve (of what i could see via exhaust port)
so i think i will just run a fine edge of premix oil around piston to act as seal to stop anything going past, put some premix on top of piston, let it soak in for 20-30 mins, clean cylinder head, then let piston slide down a little and clean up any oil/remnants of carbon on sleeve, then back up again and down, repeating till perfect and clean then job done, add a little premix oil to sleeve and piece everything back together.
Does that sound ok ? remembering this bike will do very minimal hours, very minimal effort and only reg. for 90 days per year.
would rather get it back together and going then do a rebuild maybe next winter.
From the net there is too much conflicting info from ppl saying if opened up do it all piston rings needle bearing circlips etc.....and some at 25hr intervals, i assume these ppl are riding hard and on track/comp.
others say aint broke dont fix etc.....
i need some advice from experienced ppl on here, remembering budget build is also in mind and does it have to be done now or can wait....orig i wasnt going to touch engine and most ppl said thats fine.
Cheers, any info be great
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Jarerd, at 9300 fairly easy klm's and listening to the bike in your video's I'd say it'll be okay for a while yet and probably best left alone. Cleaning the carbon from the cylinder head as you've done and also in the exhaust port if there appears to be excess is about all you need worry about.
The cylinder can be stubborn if it's never been off. Sometimes a short piece of solid wood and a hammer will do the trick. Just hold the wood squarely on the cylinder, tap it firmly on both sides of the cylinder and it should pop it free. Probably just needs a bit of a sharp shock to loosen the gasket surfaces.
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Have a listen to the F11 in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq7aRms1yzI&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq7aRms1yzI&feature=related)
If yours were to sound like this, lots of engine rattles, slower throttle response from low revs and poor idling then I'd say it more than likely needed a rebuild. Yours on the other hand still has a fairly crackly sound, minimal rattling, idles nicely and has pretty good response when you give it a quick rev which is fairly indicative of reasonable to good engine condition.
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perfect reply, of all the ppl who could have responsed to my questions the one i hoped for did.
Cheers Doc, on your advice i will do the carbon clean up and also enable me to properly remove paint from head, clean up the bolts and washers etc so nice and shiny and reinstall
Brilliant.
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;) my pleasure Jarerd but if it blows up I will totally deny ever giving the advise ???
just kidding ;)
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What a busy weekend, after man handling 9 tonnes of retaining wall blocks I still had half of today free to play with bike.
Head cleaned/ piston top cleaned & all bolts / washers cleaned up. Reinstalled everything and torqued up. Decided to reuse orig copper gasket as was perfect with no kinks at all, the one that came in the full gasket set was about 1/3rd as thick as orig, so may have increased compression if installed ? So thought I'd wait till hearing ppls advice and can chang it next time.
Bought some new bolts and installed front fork guard properly
Pulled apart clutch, as ppl mentioned they were jut stuck together, so as I reinstalled i smeared some oil between each friction plate / steel plate etc. Clutch springs and friction plates are basically brand new in relation to tolerances.
Refitted oil pump etc and all new gaskets/ cases all with the new hex head bolts.
Also put the motor back in with zero scratches thanks to some left over packaging material from all the eBay purchases I've made lately lol. Pics below :) very happy it's all coming together now
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/7daa514c.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b473727a.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/cd326d64.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/ddea35cb.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3ce09c47.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/4a65551a.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/955f98f1.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/dca3900a.jpg)
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Hi Jadred,
With the head gasket the manuel will tell you not to reuse it.But I have reused them ,you need to take it to the kitchen put on the ring till its glowing,then throw it into the sink of cold water,this will soften it up and make it pliable again.
Graham
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Ok, so should I take it off and do that?
The replacement one in gasket set wasn't even the same toe of crush looking copper one, it was prob 1mm thick as oppose to the 3mm or so stock one so not sure how it would have worked ?
I made sure to put it back in the exact same way etc so it seemed to fit perfect
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Jaderd, sorry but I've just realized I've been calling you Jarerd ::) bloody domestic blindness, can't see anything that's right in front of me ::)
I can't imagine why your bike would have a 3mm thick head gasket, seems about twice as thick as it should be. The gasket in mine from memory somewhere between about 1.00mm-1.50mm. It's not 2 gaskets stuck together is it? Maybe when someone had the head off they inadvertently refitted a new gasket on the top of the cylinder but the old one may have still been stuck to the head hence they doubled up :-\ can't say I've known anyone to ever actually do this but it's not out of the realms of possibility..can't think of any other reason for the extra thickness.
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Cheers doc, my exaggeration really, I guess my stock is about 3 times as thick, I did measure the one that came in the kit it is .5mm thick so stock one is like you said around 1-1.5mm thick.
Is it ok to reuse it as I did or do I have to do what Graham mentioned above ? Cheers
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I'd use the old one and be best to do what Graham mentioned. The other gasket sounds like a high compression job.
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sweet ill do that before starting bike.
today my first hiccup, screw snapped off inside rear brake lever cam actuator, id be lucky to have put 25 ft-lb on it and from the manual it is supposed to take around 60 ft-lb........dont suppose anyone has one laying around ?
i drilled the screw out and re threaded with tap n die set but really doesnt leave much mass there and also the fact that its a pretty integral part i would rather get another one....dont want rear brake failing at a time i need it most.
im waiting to see the postage costs off a few on ebay US
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-F11-REAR-BRAKE-LEVER-CAM-ACTUATOR-NEW-O4B-/380142016965?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58823ad9c5#ht_2945wt_939 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-F11-REAR-BRAKE-LEVER-CAM-ACTUATOR-NEW-O4B-/380142016965?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58823ad9c5#ht_2945wt_939)
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just saw ebay thread selling .5mm and 1.5mm head gaskets.
explains it for us.
"This is a .5mm thick head gasket. F11 models with engine # 04115 and above use a 1.5mm thick head gasket, part number 11004-055, which I have available in a seperate listing."
im guessing the .5mm must be the early F11A series.
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Jaderd, that's the lever that goes on brake pedal shaft which runs through the frame I assume. What you can do is drill out the hole, get a 10mm longer hi-tensile 6mm bolt and flat washer then simply put a locknut or a nut and spring washer on the other end. You may have to trim it back a little to get correct length but since it's not a 10 point restoraton there really isn't any need to buy another lever when a longer bolt/nut will work just as well. It's on the inside of the frame so know one will ever see it anyway ;)
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Simple yet effective idea..... I should have thought of that. I'll give it a go
Cheers
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bought a 1.5mm gasket off ebay cheap, so will pop that one in when it arrives, then keep the orig as a spare to do the hot / cold treatment to prior to use.
Cheers
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The cherry red hot and dunk will work at least a few times..probably more ;)
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my "street" riding shoes arrived from the US today and fit perfect, very happy.
like the idea i can wear jeans(kevlar lined) street looking shoes, jacket n helmet and be able to head out not looking like im about to tackle a 3 day camping trip, you wouldnt know they were riding shoes.
Shift Kicker
(http://www.cyclegear.com/images/streetapparel/shift_kicker_shoe_blkwht_LG.jpg)
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Grabbed some m6 30 n 40 mm nut bolt set for the brake fix. Fairly tight fit top And bottom in regard to space. The 30mm once adding a spring washer was just short, you began to tighten and the thread only came 3/4 of way through nut therefore though high tensile sheared thread, must be designed to need a full nut worth if thread taken up before have strength. As there were no 35mm bolts in stock I had to trim the 40mm one, after trimming 3 times I had the perfect length and it worked a treat, all be it a little fiddly, holding brake lever at correct angle with knee while pushing in at shaft against spring then trying toget nut on bolt..... So glad its done now, tightened it upas tight as I felt confident that it wouldn't shear off, which was nice and tight. There is about 1mm of gap between nut and engine case when sitting on stopper
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/a4670957.jpg)
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That'll work ;)
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sure will, cheers doc, saved me a good $20 :)
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Did some more today,
sanded and sprayed the airbox - silver and cleared so that is ready for fitting.
refitted the chain guards and also the rear metal guard and also the rear tail light /number plate part. cleaned the light and light sanded / polished the lens to bring it back to new looking.
Also decided to use the old reflector holder mount to hold the rear indicators as i didnt want to use the stock mount spot.
Also have decided to go with the second lot of indicators i bought of ebay as they are a little smaller and more era specific looking.
really enjoying the build now...its all the nice clean less messy parts i get to play with.....still frustrating though wire wheeling all the nuts bolts washers etc and polishing them (mainly to protect a little from rust) before i can use them to remount stuff .....tedious but worth it in the end.
cheers
some pics below....seat and rear fender just sitting there.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/867c8303.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/14772413.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/455f9777.jpg)
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Looking very neat and tidy Simon. One thing that may cause some grief later are the polished nuts, bolts and washers. Whilst they do look good in the short term they will eventually rust much faster than if they wearn't polished. When you polish them what's left of the sacrificial zinc plating protection is removed. Apart from unsightly external rust which will be hard to contain, any area such as inside nuts or threaded parts they screw into will corrode even faster sometimes causing these bolts to become seized making future removal difficult or in some cases impossible without shearing the screws. The smaller the bolt/screw the greater the frequency this will occur. I learnt this from doing exactly the same thing. I had a bike that looked great and in the short term I kept on top of it with WD spray but all it took was some rainy weather or after a quick wash and if I hadn't paid the extra attention by the next morning things had changed dramatically. You've seen how fast steel wool corrodes overnight if left wet well it's the same with any un-plated steel. I ended up purchasing a plating kit and now do my own. It's simple and not overly expensive to replace as many as possible with new over the counter items from auto accessory shops, hardware or a fastener suppliers. Just something to keep in mind.
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Cheers doc, yeah sounds good, i have seen those plating kits i think someone may have posted a link on here as to where to purchase etc and ive saved is somewhere.
Ive only really wire brushed external and no threads so hopefully that should reduce the seizing aspect. Once i have had this spring / summer of riding and now that i know how everything works and where it goes next winter might be a good time to tear down / replace nuts and bolts or buy one of those kits and plate everything.
Hopefully the bike wont really get too wet other than a wash and dry off, if its raining it aint going out lol and ive pretty much decided it i wont enter and vinduros or anything, not really set up for that, ill still attend any that are close by for a look see.
bike will really just be road use and some close to home offroad areas.
cheers
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Unless you plan to do a few or more bikes the plating kit probably isn't very cost effective. The good thing with them is there is no minimum amount, no waiting, you can spread it over a period of time and there's some appreciation of the fact you did it yourself. Unlike a lot of the old MX bikes the F11's have most parts like axle adjusters, brake arms and other bits already chrome plated. Replated spokes look extra nice and give overall appearance a huge boost but it's a heck of a job that takes days not hours. The availability of replacement kits which sell for under $100 both wheels inclusive delivered to your door are the way to go in that instance. I don't do spokes any more for this reason..depends how much time you have spare and how much you value your time. Your bike looks good anyway..far removed from the 1st pictures you posted ;)
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Cheers Doc,
i have seen the spoke kits and i would have a go at it in the future.
The fact that once the bike is running and registered for the 90 days a year its fairly cheap rego and insurance comprehensive for 3k is only around $200pa.
with that low cost in mind im happy to take it off the road during crappy winter and spend the time on it.
As for my time its my hobby (cars / bike / hands on stuff) and what i like doing so evenings and weekends doesn't worry me.....with that in mind i have a backyard that needs landscaping and a deck that needs building so winter time for bike is perfect as i wont be in the garden or outside in Melbournes cold if i can help it.
As for replacement nuts / bolts where have you found best place to purchase ? bunnings or online etc ?
ebay i have noticed acorn nut sets etc but no complete kits.
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Some shorter 6mm phillips head screws, metric nuts and washers can be found at Supercheap but others you may have to go to a fastener supplier to get the correct type and finish. Don't use the goldbrite coloured items as they just look wrong on a motorcycle. Bright zinc coated is the way to go. Keep your eyes open in your travels, you never know where they'll turn up. Ebay is an option but as you said it's hard to find model specific kits for the older bikes. 6mm allen screws for the engine cases is also an acceptable alternative.
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Or you could do the stainless route
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-F11-POLISHED-STAINLESS-BOLT-KIT-/370539783007?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5645e4635f
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Already done the stainless route Tony :) that only covers engine, done them all other than the actual case ones as I never split the cases but had bolts there for when / if I do. Ill keep my eyes open, no rush want a few rides before I worry about rust :)
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Question that needs an answer :)
air filter.
what should i do? i think unifilter have one but is getting towards the $45 mark i think.
could i just wrap with some foam ? like this sort of thing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Briggs-Stratton-Foam-Air-Filter-272403-272403-30925-/220732900536?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3364b4c4b8#ht_500wt_922 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Briggs-Stratton-Foam-Air-Filter-272403-272403-30925-/220732900536?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3364b4c4b8#ht_500wt_922)
or could i go down this route just finding one with correct measurements? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VMX-CZ-NEW-AIR-LUFT-FILTER-LUCHTFILTER-FILTRE-A-AIR-/190565886240?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5e9ca920#ht_791wt_905 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VMX-CZ-NEW-AIR-LUFT-FILTER-LUCHTFILTER-FILTRE-A-AIR-/190565886240?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5e9ca920#ht_791wt_905)
im guessing density of foam will effect whether running lean or rich
or should i take air box into autobarn etc and start playing with pod filters that fit in ? or will they be too constrictive ?
Cheers any info or tips of what you guys do on your vintage bikes would be great, im hoping for an awesome answer like
"clark rubber, foam model XY215, 20 cents per metre" lol
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Clarke Rubber 'filter foam' comes in 2 densities but I believe it's about $16 p/mtr. Go for the fine type not the coarse, you'll see what I mean when you see it. Strip off all the old paper from the original element leaving just the inner cage. Wrap the new foam around and cut to size, use some silastic and stitch the ends together. Give it an oil then slip it back over the cage. Neither density will require any rejetting ;) Make sure it is the black coloured filter foam and not just regular foam.
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perfect response :)
in relation to oiling it i have the red oil used for K&N filters (pod and panel) is that ok to use on the foam ? from a quick read of the uni filter website they state
"WARNING: UniFilter strongly advises against using filter oil designed for cotton gauze filters. This filter oil may seem similar but it is far from it. If you use this type of oil you may run the risk of severely damaging your engine."
are they being wanky wanting you to spend cash on their product or legit...sounds reasonable i think ?
more than happy to go buy some specific oil as saving on the foam although if i can use what i have that would be preferable. with the cost of the foam etc i will not be cleaning the foam, once it looks dirty / etc i will cut some more so its just the oiling aspect.
Cheers in advance
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The Uni oil should be fine, just don't put it on too thick. Alternatively 15w/40 engine oil wrung into the filter will also work but eventually this oil will find it's way to the bottom of the foam. Ok if you plan to clean the filter every few weeks but otherwise the Uni oil is the go as it's sticky as and stays put for the duration.
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sweet, another brilliant answer and very prompt ;D
ill get some unifilter oil and some clark rubber foam that should provide me with multiple filters.....might make a new one for the lawn mower whilst im at it :)
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Final work appt today left me out ferntree gully way which was great, stopped on at motorbike city tried on and ordered Rjays Dakar duel sport helmet cheapest place in town so added a darker visor to order :). Then just up the road was Clark rubber,bought the least course if there air filter foam as recommended by doc. It's 6mm thick, got what they had left so around 70 sq cm for $10. I'm guessing you only need to have one thickness and as doc said stitch together. As it's that synthetic type stuff i will give te k&n oil I have a go as it's similar material to the k&n filter. If
It was actual foam I would use the uni filter oil, this air filter "foam" is the type o stuff you find in ducted heating units etc with a sporadic spider web like pattern make up, fair sure the sticky oil should work.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/029851ce.jpg)
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nope, wrong type, the foam I got was about 15mm thick, it was much more dense and the proper automotive filter foam. You can't see any light though it. Sorry the pics are so small but it's all I have.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/923869/filter%20foam%201.JPG)fine (http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/923869/filter%20foam.JPG)coarse
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sweet doc, thats all good, ive got to head out to the same area again next week to grab my helmet so ill get that sort :)
the stuff i bought i can use for spare in the ducted heating at home...
cheers for the pics.
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ok today was a 10am - 5:00pm garage day.
all to do with wiring, airbox, oil reservoir etc.
so it all went well, in relation to wiring any where where there was some old black tape that appeared to be concealing a join or splice i undid and inspected, at the steering stem area where heaps wires come together i found two that were broken so fixed them.
was able to remove a little wiring that was the lights for tacho n speedo dials.
i replaced the 6V17w relay with the 6V8w one i bought, indicators work fine, nice brightness i think and seem to flicker at the same rate as a car which im guessing is all good.
Rear brake light works, tail light works.
What doesnt work.
Horn doesnt....anyway to check / test other than plug in ? should i hear atleast some type of humming if working ?
Neutral light on dash doesnt work ? does motor need to be running maybe?
Headlight doesnt work - guessing engine needs to be running ? as even indicators slow slightly and dim a little if i hold brake on...just using the 6V battery power etc.
high beam indic light doesnt work ? once again due to motor not running ?
Front brake light sensor doesnt work...not exactly sure how it works, looking into the part that slips onto the part that clips into brake it has 2 contacts in their that look bent and butchered so may need need replacement ? as the actual piece that clips into brake looks fine, has 2 contacts on it and the spring loaded little rod bit.....might not even be needed for legalities ?
i spoke to VJMC guy who inspects and he is happy to inspect bike with indicators working etc bike doesnt have to be running. so hopeflly registered soon.
Note- some feedback off do the ton forum a guy said headlight should work off battery only... Though I don't think this can be true as doesn't it have a lighting coil where circuit would not be made unless engine spinning ? Not much info on net though saw a thread for a dt250 74 model where they said no headlight unless engine running re. Lighting coil and not from battery power supply directly etc. Which makes me think that also the neutral light n highbeam light circuit won't be made until engine running ?
Hope I'm correct, would sure make the wiring a easier n hassle free job than I had expected.
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Another note, the guy said might not be earthed enough.
From memory there are 3 earths, battery direct to frame, one near oil reservoir n one on coil bolt, now all o these are directly onto the powdercoated frame, so only getting earthed I guess through the PC or due to the bolt thread going into frame. Is this good enough ? Seeing everything that works is bright n good o should i wire wheel away the PC on the earth points so touches bare metal ?
Cheers
..... Where are you doc ? I hope to wake up tomorrow to your brilliant answers :)
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Got some feedback from doc which included the answers i was hoping for in that headlight wont work unless motor running, and also some advice re. neutral light and front brake switch which is great.
will post up on how i go at checking things out during the week incl thoughts on new helmet
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Ok, in bed on the iPhone happy a Larry.
I have everything working except headlight components as engine not running yet.
Long story short the problem with the neutral light and front brake was my error, on first inspection the other day I found a broken brown wire so I joined it, thing is that brown wire was two separate brown wires that had pulled away from a brown wire splitting into 4.
So in the mean time I had stripped majority of old tape off loom, undid every taped join / solder to inspect and retap, attempted to remove neutral globe with the globe breaking in fingers, so I replaced the bulb and holder with spare light that used to be for tacho, then went to test old tacho bulb In indicator light socket as I know that works.... And indicator bulb broke too, so replaced that with old speedo bulb and holder lol. So atleast they are both nice new ones and not rusted together now.
Quite glad I have done all this now as I know all joins/ soldering is good.
Horn dead couldn't get it to make any sound even directly onto a torch battery ad adjusting screw and nut so I'll buy another.
Very happy I went out for that last 1 hr tonight and nutted out what was really a simple initial error of mine.
Will now organize the VJMC inspection for ASAP :)
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Went out this morning before work and did the fingers crossed test again of everything and it all worked which is brilliant.
Tonight i will re wrap a few places with tape then the rest of the main part of the loom running under tank and up to steering stem i am just going to place it within some wiring conduit i bought, i feel that way the wiring has the ability to move and not be caught up, i noticed once i unwrapped the old tape everything was a little more free and the original tapeing had put pressure on a couple of wires....the ones that had broken. This way i can just put a few zip ties around the conduit and enable the wires to move within if necessary. http://89.206.185.119/images/ebay/jjc/lma_cable-protection.jpg (http://89.206.185.119/images/ebay/jjc/lma_cable-protection.jpg)
Also last night i covered my old scratched tool box lid with a sideburn sticker, not sure if many follow the sideburn blog or buy the magazines, i do and find them brilliant, good stories and great bikes. So instead of using the pristine NOS tool box lid i paid a pretty penny for a few years ago i made the old one look better...7 layers of clear later and it looks good enough to me...the sticker "sunk" into where the old scratch marks were but looks good from far lol.
link to sideburn blog http://www.sideburnmag.blogspot.com/ (http://www.sideburnmag.blogspot.com/)
there mags are great value A5 size high quality books and only around $10-12 aussie dollars inl. postage form UK
Question: Now as for fuel hose is it ok to use standard PVC hosing ? i had some for a water pump for garden etc, i have used it for the oil line was perfect diameter etc and figure the oil is less corrosive than fuel. As when i went to supercheap auto and looked at "fuel" hose all it was stated on packet etc was "universal PVC hosing" which is what i got at bunnings cheap as ? or for fuel should i buy specific hose.
Cheers
a few pics below....
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_1718.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/IMG_1717.jpg)
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will reassess my horn again, it may not be working as i think the ground to the handlebar is suss, handlebar mounts onto PC support now and the top clamps are PC also now etc so the handlebar wont be able to work as a ground, ill just run a wire i guess to a ground point.
Brown wire to horn constantly carries the power, then black switch wire from switch, to horn, normally gets ground out and completes the circuit when pressed but that aint happening! hopefully a fix...will see
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Good to hear you got it all working sans the horn ;) I'd be a little suspect of the regular PVC tubing for fuel hose. It will tend to go very hard over a short time and leak at the carb or the fuel tap. Best to use the proper 'black' rubber type fuel hose from Repco or a bike shop (not the reinforced stuff). It wouldn't be a bad idea to fit a small inline fuel filter while you're at it.
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Cheers doc, yeah was always going to buy a little filter.
Finished off the wiring re fitted headlight and oversize grill etc. Had to undo whole from end of wiring first so I could feed the loom through the little hole below tank mount that wiring fits through, then below that little hole is the bendable tab for the oil filter / throttle cable.
I tested horn by earthing it then after Afew hits with screw driver then adjusting tone it was all good. Still wouldn't work from the switch so I pulled apart and fitted earth wire, then it worked even though earth wore I added wasnt connected to anything ! so im guessing it may have just needed a fiddle with or needed the wire I added to increase contact point ? Either way I just taped up the loose end of new earth wire ad tucked it away incase needed later on.
Put some ofthe conduit over it all and it looks neat.
Cleaned and polished tank, love how it came out old all weathered yet nice and shiny.... It will be the old looking part of the bike.
Next is clutch cable, though not exactly sure of it's routing, will look at pics on comp tomorrow.
Some pics below
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/066cf285.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/9e02c7b0.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/ddb6d386.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3847d85c.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/99308c92.jpg)
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Picked up my helmet tonight.
Got a L, could not even fit an M over my head lol.
seems to fit well, might be slightly big....i mean mm's. I tried on other helmets all dual sport and they all felt too loose, too tight, complete wrong shape etc, this one felt to grab eveywhere, nice on top of head, on cheeks etc.
I might unclip the lining and play with some small pieces of thin foam in different spots to get it just right...also prob wear a balaclava most times which adds a bit of bulk etc...
i read the manual and it does slightly move side to side....and forward and back a bit but feels more so like its my skin moving back and forward lol.
doing the test trying to lift it off head from the back it moves forward a little but cant come off etc.
Soooo without riding in it yet, all in all i think it should be ok.
(http://rjays.com.au/home/products/helmets/Dakar%20Gunmetal.jpg)
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wow, looks like you could fly to the moon in that! ;) I like the black steath look though 8) helmets sure have changed over the years...I must be old :-\
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of the dual sports its the least space flight looking lol.
check out this one, the Fly Trekker
(http://motorcrossaccessories.com/store/image/456800329831895/2012-fly-trekker-motocross-helmets)
father in law has some sticky sided thin dash foam left over from his monaro build that he said i can have....will be able to get the helmet fitting perfect i think then.
Also scored some clear PVC fuel hose from clarke rubber, is sold as Oil and Fuel use etc....not sure how true but will see how we go, i got 1 m of 3mm 6mm and 8mm as only $1.20 per metre so figured id cover my bases.
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ok getting closer now.
Friday night and saturday night at about 9:30pm i headed to the garage till around 1am lol...time flew wasnt even tired.
Finished wiring and fitted the trail tech dash with its 9V battery + switched tucked away under tank though accessible to turn off n on etc.
then i pulled apart the carby sat night and today i cleaned it all and refitted it all together.
It was gross, heaps of muck and gunk as you can imagine.
Carby cleaner worked great, better than i expected actually and stripped all the black paint that was already deteriorated anyway.
after cleaning it all i blew everything and everywhere with air gun and fitted everything back together.
Carby was simpler than i thought, i just used the exploded view in workshop book, i didnt go to the detailed area that explains how everything works, that would have confused me.
The needle (i think lol) showed basically zero signs of wear just like how it should be which is good.
All the stats on jets etc were identical to manual which is great, although the jet needle was on slot 2, where manual says 3. From what i know dad never adjusted etc so maybe incorrect position from factory ? i changed it to 3 so inline with book.
i left the float height alone, didnt bend tang as guessing fine from standard as ran correct before.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5b530821.jpg)
Question: I adjusted the air screw correct all way in then backed out the 1 3/4 turns. Now the throttle valve cutaway is that something i adjust or is that stating what it is like the jet needle and main jet size etc?
the air stop screw (idle screw) thats not also called the throttle valve cutaway is it ? and the 2.5 means turns out ? figured they would say turns out if that was the case. figured it out with some google searching...just describing the cutaway with the slide...
The air stop screw, where should i have that set ? i guess at high idle to enable me to easy start then when warm adjust to correct idle level....im guessing backed out heaps makes high idle? as intrudes less internally ?
Not going to polish the carby i like the standard look. If as im suspecting the only thing i play with being the air stop screw and air screw the carby is like everyone said...not too scary, i guess its when you start altering your jets etc it can get tricky.
Cheers guys any info would be great, and your ideas on the slot 2 versus slot 3.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b7adb30c.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/fb66709a.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/65fe51c4.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/198cffe5.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/9f41c978.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/bc1e9d66.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/9d5de5e8.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5b530821.jpg)
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grabbed a fuel filter yesterday and stopped past another clark rubber.
They had filter foam and from what i can tell now it was very similar to what Doc got, i asked the guy and all clarke rubbers can only order the range they had, though some different density options
From research it is reticulated polyester foam, made to allow easy breathing yet good cross section for filtration.
From looking Doc got the 15mm which you could see through holding up to light but not to great detail...or Docs may even be denser as that store may have ordered a different density etc.
so i figured the 5-6mm one i bought i will do three wraps of and be done with it for now, to get bike up and running with some type of filtration while i find the exact type i want. In that time the bike will be lucky to do 100km of road riding etc... Figure that should be fine as the bike was running on a few layers of old stockings for filtration!! lol.
Cheers
Bit bullet, sick of hunting, its only money right ? :)
Unifilter - proper filter and proper 250ml oil posted to my door $60 - DONE lol
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just another questions while i sit at work eating lunch and pondering.
The throttle stop screw - what i always just knew as a kid the "idle screw" just thinking out loud.
Doe is work by at you screw it in, it hits the bottom of the cut away or some guide point, so as you screw it in further it pushes the slider up thus opening up more space and increasing idle....due to the tapered head on that screw once you get to a certain point it does not do anymore as you have already reached the maximum width of screw thus height of slide ?
i may be completely off but seems correct in my little carby knowledge head
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Simple answer in regards to the idle screw ( throttle stop screw)..yes on all accounts.
Idle mixture screw on the other hand should be screwed all the way in 'lightly' until it stops and then back it out roughly 1 and 3 quarter turns. Set the needle clip to the middle position then check the colour of the sparkplug after a decent ride. The plug colour is one of the best indicators as to what's happening inside the engine and what 'if anything' needs extra adjustment.
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beautiful, thanks for that clarification Doc :)
wish me luck, i think tonight might be the night for a trial start, ill run a little pre mix in the fuel anyway as it may take a few seconds for the oil lines to run etc and id rather not risk any problems....so im guessing it will be slightly rich anyway for the first bit of fuel i use.
Cheers
* any other things to check ?
key on
kill switch on
fuel on reserve for a bit then onto normal let bowl fill
choke on
a few slow kicks with key off to circulate a bit of oil about ?
then have a go.
PS - clutch does not work at moment though all pulled apart, back together and adjusted as per manual...im hoping it needs to run, oil heat up and get into basket in between everything and then work..otherwise might have to pull apart again :( ..will see
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Sounds like a pretty good method Simon, only other thing is when you kickstart a bike from cold never give them much 'if any' throttle as this is how they flood. The clutch doesn't need to heat up, it may feel like it's not working properly but I'd say it probably just needs some adjustment since you only had it apart just recently. Wait till you start the bike then see what happens. If the clutch doesn't work at all and lunges fwd like you haven't disengaged it then you may have to pull the right side clutch cover off and double check everything. If it partially works but still wants to creep fwd or stall then it'll probably just need a re-adjustment on the worm drive down on the left engine case behind the big slotted screw.
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As far as getting the oil lines air free you may be able to hold the oil pump fully open by hand while it's idling, the T500 suzuki I used to own said in the manual to do it until all the bubbles were purged.
Look at where the cable hooks to the pump & if it uses a lever it will be easy enough to hold open, if it uses a disc type arrangement you may be able to do it by lifting the cable out of it's adjuster
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Hi all,
did everything as above, already knew to hold pump on full, was wondering if a way to get the oil already at head etc before starting, only way i found on net was using a power drill at back of pump....i figured that was too much effort.
Rebuilt petcock tonight, fitted up carby and installed fuel filter (bit long of a filter, will prob swap over soon)
chucked some fuel in.
2-3 push throughs of the kick start just to move some oil, then on the second actual kick it worked...started straight up.
Left choke on for a while, checked oil coming through etc, then turned off and assessed everything, no leaks from anywhere fuel or oil thus far which is good.
Headlight worked YIIPPEEE so all ready for my VJMC inspection, First go in with clutch it stalled and freed itself i think, then clutch worked fine, fanged down the road a little up to 3rd gear and back home asleep in garage now.
Havent adjusted idle screw yet, air screw is at factory 1 3/4 out etc.
Ran with no airfilter just for that few mins, Unifilter on way.
Digital dash all over the shop lol need to check earths on that and i think i have tacho interfering with speedo but all all brilliant soooo happy its not funny.
Thanks so far for everyones help and advice so far.
Vid below
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/?action=view¤t=IMG_1738.mp4 (http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/?action=view¤t=IMG_1738.mp4)
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very good! ;)
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another question from the newbie.
my dash allows me to put in two temperatures that are picked up from the top left small head bolt, i undid the one bolt, slipped under it the temp sensor, then split washer then torqued back up.
the temp ranges then trigger two different LEDs (same ones are used for shift lights)
first setting is to state High Temp (engine has reached the entered temp so lets shut her off for a bit ) second setting is to say its reached the over temp danger point
at moment i set the lower on 80 degrees i think and upper on 92.....
what would ppl reccomend i put in as temps ? remembering where sensor is receiving the data from....would like to use the functionality to keep engine safe.
not sure what old air cooled 2 strokes should be .
cheers
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I wouldn't know sorry Simon. Never had a temp light or gauge on any of my old bikes nor have I had any aircooled 2 stroke overheat. Only real way I could see that happening on a mildly tuned engine such a stock F11 is if the engine is continuously running for lengthy period at high rpm whilst stationary :-\ your best method of keeping things safe is the sound you hear and the power you feel. My brother used to ride from Brisbane to Woodenbong (roughly 150klm each way at highway speeds) in mid summer on his '73 TS250 Suzuki without ever having any issue..except numb hands and a sore arse :D
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ha, sounds great thanks doc, i might just check temps when riding, find an average for my type of riding, add a few degrees and have that as one then add ten degrees for other, ill see if any ppl on other forums have any idea on approx temps.
Cheers
* tonight im going to check my oil pump, i lined up the two lines on pump lever and body although now thinking about it and reading a bit about those type of pumps im not sure if i had taken the slack up first so will check to see, otherwise it might be giving our "idle" amounts of oil at say 20% throttle so a little under what it should.
on this webpage there is a little image down bottom right giving some standard output rates for various kawasakis that ppl may be interested in
http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm (http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm)
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played around with fuel hose setup tonight, still not 100% happy will need to buy a shorter inline filter this one is too long.
re positioned the 9V battery pack, found perfect location that hides most but lets switch hang out.
rewired the power and tacho wires to run in separate conduit just in case was causing some interference.
at the moment i have 4 wraps around plug lead which is fluctuating too much, looked through manual today and says to connect wire to the connector that joins the stator wire to the coil.....ill test im guessing its the black wire from ignition or what they call stator....it much be able to pick up the pulse from there...will see, otherwise there are a few other options they mention or worst is just trying different numbers of wraps around spark lead till steady +-100rpm jumps
blead the oil pump further....a few more bubbles came through then stopped....smoking a bit more now which is good not too much on idle, more on blips etc...
Clutch didnt work tonight, all i did was start and try to move forward...raining heavy outside....worked fine last night so i just think it needs half an hour riding etc...will see.
*wire hanging down is the temp sensor is ziptied up now
cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/5da90065.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/4c08077d.jpg)
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Had my VJMC inspection last night, passed with flying colors so bike will have plates by mid next week :)
bike started fine again last night, temp sensor working fine, 5 mins of running and temp showed 53 degrees celcius so will see what op temp seems to be
clutch stalled first attempt (fairly cold just started), so rolled off in second then clutch worked straight away and continued to work even after turning off for 15 mins etc so i think its all good.
Saw box on front step when i left house this morning, must have arrived yesterday, just that i always enter house via garage.
Nice surprise and very quick delivery - Unifilter and oil. Brilliant
Newbie question, from a quick glance it appears you unfold the filter to being one long 35cm long cylinder, slide that into cage then fold each end back over to meet in the middle ?
cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/f2816637.jpg)
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Not sure with the filter but normally they are just a slip over deal. So long as it seals against the airbox case at the outlet is the important thing. Be on the road in no time now ;)
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Filter worked a treat, it does go inside cage then you fold back over each end to join in the middle, worked great.... The uni filter oil is nice n sticky
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The uni filter oil is nice n sticky
:D yeah, I loathe getting that stuff on my mitts and usually have plastic bags on my hands when going anywhere near it. The 'No Toil' oil is good, biodegradable and washes off easily with soap and water ;)
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yeah i went to grab a pair of latex gloves out of the packet and all gone :( so found some in bathroom that misses normally uses for hair dye...
the gloves came as a pack of 100, started using them when putting bike back together, generally go through 2 pairs per visit to garage, so on that math putting the bike back together was around 20 garage stints +.....some of them 8hrs long....bikes take a while eh :)
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Bike now basically complete so took some pics today as only thing i need to do is sort out the tacho which im not too fussed about...being a 2 stroke who really cares what the tacho says lol
Fitted the Scott handlebar grips now i know the perches dont need to be removed etc
Fiitted the cable/lever guards
Fitted some small little mirrors, are supposed to be used as handlebar end mirrors, i just undid them, removed that part and with some fuel hose as space filler fitted them up to the thinner cross bar no prob, work well and aren't too obtrusive or ugly
Fitted a new inline fuel filter, nice and small one, also new fuel hose, proper fuel hose and 4 small clamps to ensure all tight.
Fitted the uni filter the other night, went fine & added the sticker they supplied to top of oil cover.
checked over lots of nuts and bolts as its been running / vibrating for 30 mins now
adjusted throttle play at handlebar and removed the excess
adjusted from axle nuts as noticed one nut was on more than other meaning one hadnt been able to bite a lot of thread.
noticed it spits a bit of oil out around exhaust housing where exhaust slips in etc, think this was mainly due to the excess oil when bleeding pump etc...doesnt spit out much, you cannot see exhaust gasses coming out though when rev it etc.
Made up a decent tool set, most of the stock stuff + a little more filled the normal tool box, then i used the Kellys enduro fender bag i bought to hold a little torch, a range of assorted sockets that fit the important nuts and bolts and a multitool, zip ties, tape etc. Will run with this on the back for the first while just incase something happens i should have most of what i need to fix it.
Pics below as usual ;)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/eca85cca.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/a6829dcc.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/46bedb72.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/8c60b90c.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/20f27925.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/db227022.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/59842d00.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/bb23cce4.jpg)
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Looks good Simon, congratulations. You will find the exhaust will leak a little around the slip in flange. If you do find the spattering of oil on the back of the mudguard upsetting at any time simply take off the pipe, apply a bead of clear silicon to either the pipe or the inner flange (or both) when it's refitted wipe off any excess and the leak will cease ;)
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Well done,it's a very satisfying feeling when you finally finish a project.Enjoy it!iI'll get the racks sent asap,also found some original blinkers if you want them.
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Cheers mate, feel free to chuck them in the post with the racks in if you can, i can always pass them onto others i may find who need them, pretty sure my originals are ok...havent really looked.
Im looking forward to Wed night when i should be able to actually rev it out a little through the gears, so far ive been a good boy and just ridden it on a vacant block beside my house.
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Great work Simon, it's a credit to you.
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Another old relic returns to life.....good job Simon, enjoy it. ;D
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got these this morning :)
....pity Melbournes weather is crap today and tomorrow....might not get a proper ride in before i head to thailand for 10 days.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/c52ed349.jpg)
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ok had first ride on the road yesterday, just in and around the estate i live in.
at first bike felt wierd and wobbly....due to the 9 psi mainly in the tyres, topped up to 25psi, felt better, though both front and rear have slight buckles i think which ill attend to in time, main problem was the tyre flex with low PSI i think.
now only thing im not sure of is operating temp of bike.....the temp sensor which is slipped under one of the 12mm ( i think) cylinder head bolts.
it peaked at 139 degrees celsius at one point.....on the net ive come across a few things where ppl say around up to 310 farenheit is the max they expect etc so around 180 celcius...does this sound about correct ?
bike felt ok, no pinging that i could hear, i checked air screw turned all way in which coincided with flat head screw line being perfectly vertical, so backed it out 1 and 3/4 as per manual.
bike stammered a little in say 3rd gear when wrapping on throttle.
Checked plug which looked oil fouled yet normal re top color being chocolate like.
i have swapped in a brand new plug as this one is years old, will give it a test tonight.
Tacho still not working will test more wiring configs soon....not too worried.
Will put the little rubber grommets back in fins to reduce noise and vibration tonight.
Only thing im worried about is whether it is running correct re not too hot in temp / too lean. Will check the plug straight away after a 10-15 rap around block tonight and inspect, really want to ride it to and from work thursday so can go past uncles and show dad (65km round trip). But dont want to harm anything.
Could the stammering bit at 3/4 throttle be from the fouled plug....from when bleeding oil pump i guess.
i would not have assumed it was hot if i didnt have a temp guage, just seeing 139 degrees C startled me a little but im guessing normal.
Bike idled perfect after the 15 min ride etc so im guessing not lean etc.
any advice welcome, mainly around whether i should do the longer ride on thursday, below is pic of current plug...stupid i phone wouldnt focus, i will post up pic tonight of the new plug after 15 mins and report etc.
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/1f4d24ae.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b444ea7b.jpg)
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Got some feedback which made me feel a little better from another Forum
"139 deg is not overheating.
If the stutter still persists after a new plug you might want to raise the carb slide needle a notch. You should be able to do this fairly easily by unscrewing the cap at the top of the carb - the slide and spring should come straight out (just be carfeul putting the slide back in the carb as it has a slot that can only go in one way).
If that makes it better, good. If it's worse, try moving the needle in the other direction. Trial and error really."
not sure if he means to raise the clip a notch or needle, if raising needle would be going from spot 3 to spot 4 which would make it "richer", sound like a noob but if new plug and bike still stammers /stutters at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle would it generally be from not enough fuel or too much fuel ? which would then mean lower or raise needle as he mentioned.
Cheers
http://www.250ninja.net/articles/ninja_250_jetting.html (http://www.250ninja.net/articles/ninja_250_jetting.html)
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Generally stuttering would mean too rich.
Moving the clip towards the top groove lowers the needle into the jet further making it leaner
If you're going to try moving it to see what happens then richer first is safer, worst thing that will happen is fouled plug
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yep Simon, I agree with Tony, If you are going to err err on the side of rich. The plug colour itself looks in the ballpark. Maybe the new plug correctly gapped will eliminate the stuttering. Riding it around the block isn't an overly accurate way to determine, you will need to go for a decent ride at a fair pace to get any real idea of how it going to be once on the open road. As for the temperature I really have no idea what temp the old aircooled engines run at. Unless the jetting is miles out either far too rich or far too lean 'which it doesn't appear to be' it should remain within normal operating temps. Usually the only time aircooled engines overheat is when you are doing something like riding in deep sand at low speed with the engine under constant load where the air isn't circulating sufficiently. Maybe ask your dad why the clip was changed on the needle when you first looked, he may have the answer you're looking for ;)
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Ok new plug in tonight,
started up bike no worries, drove it around it seems that you can wrap it on fairly nice and smooth in first and second gear and on the flat even third, maybe up to just under 3/4 throttle.
in first and second you can quickly twist it up to 3/4 throttle approx and it will get up the revs and speed with no hiccups.
i took off out of estate and up a steep hill, 2nd gear i think was ok but third gear as i got prob 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it was really pronounced and bad stammering and missing to the point where i had to drop back to 1/3rd throttle or so to keep it going ok...prob around 40kmh max, had to pull over for traffic.
On the flat/slight down hill i had the bike up to 80km approx (after the hill) as i didnt have to wrap it on too far.
Regardless of terrain if i am in 4th or 5th doing say 45kmh is i slowly wrap it on its ok for a while but regardless of speed i try to accelerate it always stammers and misses etc.
5 min in to the ride i revved it fairly hard in 1st 2nd and 3rd, prob just up to 3/4 throttle and pulled out plug it looked fine (same as pic below)
i then continued for maybe another 10 min when i was testing all the above problems and then checked plug (pic below)
Looks to me like its running just fine, nice chocolate brown color no excess oil etc, what do you think ?
Seems that the symptoms are that its too rich at that point, air screw is at exactly 1 & 3/4 turns out.
Would first thing be too drop the needle down one notch and move the circlip to spot 2 which is where it was all its life and i dont remember it ever missing like it is now. Ill test it tomoz night. I dont think i ever got bike past 3/4 throttle so im pretty sure that the main jet is fine and not blocked etc.
Is it normal that the problem seems to be exaggerated in gears 3-4-5 ?
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/P1040444.jpg)
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It is normal for the problem to become exaggerated in the upper gears due to the fact 1st and 2nd are only used for such a short duration. 3rd gear is where the engine starts to stretch it's legs sort of as you hold it in the upper rev range for longer. Plug colour looks pretty good. At around 3/4 throttle the needle will be controlling much of the fuel supply through the main jet. Maybe try dropping the clip 1 notch and see what happens and then try raising it. Bit of a hit and miss method I know but so long as it's only for a short test ride it shouldn't cause any detrimental problem. With this model the main jet is in the bottom of the float bowl so it may pay to drop the bowl and double check it's totally clean. If worst comes to worst I'd be willing to loan you the carb off my bike to fit and find out if it is the carb or a possible electrical issue.
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No worries doc, I'll try dropping needle one first, then drop bowl. If all that fails I may take you up on the carb borrow / test :).
Seems crazy how just one little change could fix something but I guess that's how fiddly carve are.
As I only just replaced the bowl gasket would I be able to reuse it id im careful or buy another one ?
Cheers
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you should be able to reuse the bowl gasket heaps of time..just don't over tighten the screws. Give me a yell in regards to the carb if you wish to try it ;)
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no prob cheers doc, read some other pieces of info on net, mainly from larger capacity bikes where its seems to commonly be fuel filter, though often happens all of a sudden, in my case i thinks it what we have discussed.
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another person on another forum mentioned at first try removing air filter completely and see how that goes for a ride as he had heard the unifilters with the unifilter oil can hamper smaller 2 strokes.
he also said to hold adjust idle up with idle screw to say 2k, then turn air screw in, then back it out till get the fastest idle and crispest sound....i figured that would only really effect the idle though to which i feel is fine already ?
any thoughts.
im going to go filter first
then move needle
then remove bowl and inspect if necessary.
from all the reading ive done the exact symptoms seem to be the too rich and needle move as ppl have said on here.
is there much need in altering the air screw or i should leave that at factory 1&3/4 out as thats not where my problem is i dont think.
Cheers
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Simon, the air screw is usually adjusted at lowest possible idle speed turned in and out slightly until a smooth idle is achieved. Adjusting it at 2000 rpm is not correct as the carb would be starting to run on the primary circuit aka the primary jet. I doubt the airfilter would have the effect when it is simply a replacement of original type/design. You could surely remove it to eliminate the possibilty. You would think if the filter is restrictive it would be creating an overly rich mixture much like having the choke on and your plug would be sooty black when inspected. Your plug looks pretty right so I really don't feel it is a mixture problem. Leaning toward something in the float bowl or blocked main jet, low float level or even the possibility of an electrical issue such as the stop switch on the throttle housing. Try disconnecting the rev counter also since it could be interfering with the plug lead and grounding partially at high rpm somehow.
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hmm sounds good all nice easy tests really.
i left air screw at stock setting.
i moved jet to position 2, took it for a ride and was a fair bit better, still stammers but better, enough to say that you could almost safely ride it on the road as third gear you can wind a fair way before anything. i think its def between 1/4 and 3/4, if i wrap it on to full throttle it does the stuttering at a massive level thus cant get it to WOT to see how main jet is etc.
i then came home, took out air filter did same 2km ride and no difference at all, so rules out that.
took plug out 3-4 times nearly all after hard revving in 3rd then clutch and bike off.
Plug basically identical to yesterdays photos, todays pic is below. if anything from my little knowledge it could still be classified as rich, the other factor that may be a big bulb for you guys with knowledge if i even put the choke on the tiniest bit it does the exact symptom - rich ?
the choke can only push 2/3rds of its slider on handlebar before its fully on, which made me think is it permenently on a little, the adjusters at each end were already wound right in, i undid choke at handlebar and reinstalled and could feel that it seems to have free play at the off position which is good so maybe not that.
I almost feel that if i dropped to position 1 on clip it may be spot on....but dont want it too lean of course....
Any diff ideas i should try with this new info...choke even slightly on while riding replicates identical symptoms.
cheers in advance for everyones input.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/4c15ef20.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/1828916c.jpg)
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advice from another forum below
"The problem coming back with the choke on gives you the clue - it's running rich.
Needles are adjustable for this very reason. If it runs better with the needle right down, then move it there."
what do you think ?
that would have been my next step, first i will do the removal of tacho wires and test.
im thinking to drop to position 1 and if feels perfect were good to go ?
or do you believe i should inspect carb first (main jet / bowl) ?
im guessing that the bike ran fine on position 2 but at the same time was gunked up maybe aiding in it not running rich and had a filthy air box and no filter just a stocking on the cage. Now everything is clean, new filter with oil etc. Just curious i guess, how many ppl have their bikes on the stock settings or is it not uncommon to drop to position 1 on needle ?
My other dilemma is even though i might get the bike running fine i would like it looked at by someone with experience.
Through VJMC i got onto Gassit motorcylces in melb, explained situation and that i want it running best it can etc, asked about approx costs and got the usual, $90 ph might take one, might take 4.....im like yeah no prob mate.
What i want is a sat, sunday tune up session where i can meet some ppl with the knowledge, learn at the same time, buy them a slab and a feed or something, that way i would get more knowledge out of it etc., anyone experts on here keen ?, i could prob putt the bike to any melb based location safely.
another reply from other forum below
"That's quite possible. Is it a cable operated choke or a lever? Either way, make sure the plunger is returning all the way and shutting the choke off"
My response below
its a cable operated choke, im 99% sure in the past i would push the lever on the bars and it would use the entire "track" it has, since rebuild i can only push it 2/3rds or so which had me thinking it is slightly on, i checked and appeared not but i think this needs further investigation, it might be that i need to slide the entire unit further up bar to give more slack etc as from checking the adjustment on both ends of cable are on longest setting.
The other reason why i think this could still be the issue is like you said it starts too easy, choke off after a few seconds and its ok, and the fact that just pushing choke on 2-3mm and it replicates the issue severely while riding along in any gear. Would also explain why idles so well (rich) and the overall richness caused by the choke over the whole rev range would be noticed most when getting towards 3/4 and WOT im guessing ?
def my first test i think before i remove needle and alter that....
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Bit of an update.
Fiddled with Choke, seems to have got it some more "length" so i am sure the plunger sits tight in the off position, didnt have effect on stammer.
disconnected the tacho from vapor dash, didnt effect stammer, even with no wire connected the unit still senses revs ?...wierd.
wired my throttle grip on as just glue wasnt enough.
checked plug, looks really good, whole centre piece a nice caramel brown etc.
tomorrow im just going to put the needle on clip 1...most lean and see what that does.
if that does nothing ill pull carby to bits again, then after that i think ill have to drop bike off somewhere.
Cheers
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Went to clip one on needle, no real difference, maybe slightly better but still stammers, the slightly better feeling is cos it will be taking slightly longer to get to the crap stammering point due to needle dropping, so clip 2 and 1 seemed to slightly improve due to this.
Next step is take carby out drop bowl and inspect things esp main jet, could be some crap there etc.
Will do that tomorrow night, surprisingly im not getting pissed off with things as atleast i have been able to have the bike out etc....trial and error as everyone has mentioned :)
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When you've had the carb apart before have you removed the needle jet?
They push out from the bottom & is another place to check
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Hi Tony,
yeah i think that may be the one thing i did not remove, looking online at pics etc. Looking forward to getting it apart this week and inspecting.
VJMC melbourne branch rep called me last night, chatted for a while basically saying good work, dont give up on it yet is lending me his ultrasonic cleaner that i will pick up tonight and then see how i go. Also he mentioned he will be able to line me up with a mate of his who is a tuning guru / bring afew ppl out to my house to get it all sorted. Really appreciated the call was great so even if i get it sorted the next step of getting a more experienced person to check its tuned fine is being lined up.
Very glad i joined VJMC as my permit club and in general, great bunch of guys willing to give advice....just like OZVMX
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ok i pulled the baffle out of exhaust and put needle back on stock 3 position.
took it for a ride, no diff, worse actually as needle was back in position 3 so felt it earlier in the rev range slightly etc.
took carby apart again and as Tony had mentioned and i thought in bed the other night i didnt actually remove the needle jet last time, i didnt read that it was able to be pushed out from the bottom then slid back in from the top.
Put the bowl and main jet, needle jet and afew other bits n pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner, seemed to do an ok job. I also put the top part of carb in cleaner in a few different positions to clean that out.
then checked everything and blew it all with compressed air, held all jets and other things up to the light to ensure they were perfectly clean etc.
Put it all back together and will test it tomorrow night....fingers crossed it was the needle jet, it did have some scaly gunk around it...and prob some within it prior to the ultrasonic cleaner.
cheers
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really hope the little scaley stuff in the carb is the issue Simon..it doesn't take much to semi-block things when the main jet sits right on the bottom. I feel this may be the cure as all along your plug colour looked well in the ballpark in regards to overall jetting and mixture. :)
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fingers crossed :)
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ok put the carby back in, needle back to stock position 3 and identical to before :(
so far i have checked / tested.
adjusted choke, ensured was closing off properly.
adjusted needle, tried in position 3,2,1
took off trailtech vapor tacho to ensuring not grounding spark lead some how
took airfilter in and out
took baffle in and out
took carby completely apart and ultrasonic clean and back together.
ppl say the plug looks fine re ok mixture (autoloube working etc)
if while going along i put choke on even a little it replicates the stammering/sounds like its flooding and dies off in power.
Seems to me it must be rich some how ? though needle on clip 1 does same thing just further on in the rev range due to needle height change etc.
im stumped....need to organise someone to look at it....anyone here keen ? have a ride see what you think / advise etc..
tricky part is its not really practical or safe to ride it on road to anywhere as up hills its unsafe and slow etc.....clincher is i live in doreen just past greensborough....anyone out this way ?
any other simple checks i can do at home ?
cheers
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Doc would next easy test be to trial your carby ?
cheers mate
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yes..process of elimination..will get it in the mail pronto ;)
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ok, straight to garage after work i did the following
wire wheeled to bare metal on
- battery neg to frame at top left of oil res bol
- bottom left bolt of oil res that a part of loom earths at
- coil mounts
I also removed the coil and looked at the new plug and what i had...if im not wrong what it had was home made, dad remembered doing something once, anyway the end had bare wires sitting there then what looks like a peg spring was pierced in at two sides hitting wires in the middle ..WTF seems so backyard...not stock is it ?
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/26fef2d0.jpg)
then the new one has ends to waterproof / insulate well, as tony said the new one has an inbuilt screw and just screws into the end....too easy :) then as for the end to clip onto the spark plug for it to occur i had to remove the tip off spark plug as internally it has a hole and a piece of wire that grips the thread as you push it on, nice tight fit is this correct ? and the rubber boot seals it nicely.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/b417cc67.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/74d4fe8a.jpg)
worked perfect and fitted up well.
Took bike for a ride and zero different in performance :(
One bonus though is that the tacho did not register at all on trailtech dash, prior even with no tacho wire connected at all it was still registering and way too high, so i think this new setup has insulated very well and i think now when i connect the tacho wire it will prob work perfect....will test it tomorrow night.
Ok final test just then was lights out in garage and test spark, spark was a nice strong purple / blue centre and orange amber outside, def working fine, which from reading means the condensor is still working fine.
this is ticking alot more boxes.
So that leaves i think points or carby still, any other simple tests ?
Cheers again for everyones input
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Simon..If I'd remembered the F11 had points ignition then I would have pointed you there as well (excuse the pun). all along I was wrongly thinking it had cdi so I never thought anymore of it. I mentioned earlier it sort of sounded electrical, I don't normally associate an engine missing and stammering or stuttering when under load with jetting problems.
A bright blue spark is good yes, an indication the bike should run but it doesn't give a complete picture. Under actual operating conditions things may change. Give the points a bit of a file, even a nail file will do if you don't have a points file. Medium sand paper folded over is also another option.
To adjust the points look at them through the holes in the magneto whilst turning the engine slowly clockwise by hand..you will see a position where they are open and then turned a little more they will shut again. They operate via a little cam type lobe inside the magneto so you need turn the magneto slowly until they are at their widest opening (i.e. on the highest point of the cam) the holes in the magneto are placed so you can see this position. If you look close you will see a small mounting screw on the points. Loosen this slightly and adjust the gap until you have a gap of 0.40mm If you have feeler (thickness) gauges then using the correct one you will have a light drag when sliding in and out of the gap. As a rule I set my points gap and my spark plug gap to 0.40mm and 0.80mm respectively. Therefore the points are set at half the gap of the plug. A regular hacksaw blade is roughly 0.80mm so the points gap should be half that thickness as a visual guide.
Also running the engine in the dark and looking inside the spinning magneto could give another clue..if you see any sparking there when revving the engine then you may find the condenser needs replacing. A poor condenser will definitely cause a stammering/stuttering effect when riding. Check these things I've mentioned. Contact cleaners are okay but they don't always remove all deposits, especially if the deposits are caused by points that have been burnt due to a faulty condenser. Never spray the contact cleaner onto the points while the bike is running..it will ignite the vapour and all hell will break loose :o
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awesome, another brilliant instruction write up for me doc.
I will do that tonight / over weekend, i have a feeler guage and checked my spark plug last night, its at .65mm so i might take your advice and bend it out to .8 ish mm.
nice surprise in the garage this morning all over the floor...prob around 500-600ml of 2 stroke oil :( yesterday while sanding back the battery earth i noticed a little weeping from the new oil guage eye thing, so i tightened it a little, obviously enough that it was just on the verge of popping open from being too tight :( then go out this morning and what a mess....cleaned up most of the oil with rags b4 work but i had to go so i will tackle the proper clean up when i get home, i cleaned any oil off frame (hardly any) and tire before i left.
Best way to clean up oil / minimize stain on concrete....its covered prob 1m2 :(
cheers
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looks like a peg spring was pierced in at two sides hitting wires in the middle ..WTF seems so backyard...not stock is it ?
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/26fef2d0.jpg)
A lot of things had that spring idea JADERD mowers/chainsaws/whippersnippers.
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yeah seems very simple and basic yet obviously effective.
The way i have it now where i unscrew the top knob bit off is that how most ppl have their bikes with new caps ?
cheers
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dry portland cement sprinkled onto oil spill, leave till it soaks it up [10mins] then sweep off. cheers pancho
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ok pulled off fly wheel case,
started the bike in the dark, only spark you can see is the faint blue tiny spark at the points...guessing that is normal ?
even as revving up etc no other spark anywhere at all.
i then set the points, set at .4mm and did a few small strokes of 1200 grit sandpaper between the points, went for a ride and worse...stammering throughout the rev range not just mid to top end.
Very happy as this i think means that it is the points or somewhere there related.
then realised my feeler guage is a little "tall" so it was actually causing the points to be open more than the .4 due to it sticking straight up whilst point touch at a slight angle etc.
put in a .28mm feeler guage and set and went for ride, same problem, back to original feeling of problem happening higher in revs.
finished for the day after that as was hot in garage etc.
points looked fine, not black or anything, should i keep fiddling with points gaps? or buy new points ?
cheers for any advice guys
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This too kind of tells me the problem is ignition related Simon. I'd say the best thing maybe remove the flywheel and have a good look at the points they maybe worn beyond serviceable limits. For what they're worth a new set would certainly eliminate this probability. They do wear out, both the contact area and also on the actuating arm that runs on the cam inside the flywheel. Have even had issues with some of the plastic insulation around the terminal cracking which allowed the current to ground when revved hard or in damp weather. A pain I know but a new set of points wouldn't go astray regardless. A new condenser might also be worth the few dollars, again this will eliminate the probability of a suspect condenser. These items don't last forever and are part of a normal service routine.
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yeah i thought as much, to me the points look fine, for the sake of points and condenser for around 20$ or bit more ill just get a set.
ill leave the bike for a bit till the points come etc then ill ask more questions regarding flywheel removal and reinstall / timing to be redone then i guess ?
ill have another go at setting the points during the week with a piece of wire measure to the .4mm, the feeler guage is too large (blade type).
seem to be afew types of condensers stating for F11B, two distinct ones with diff shape ends etc, so ill look at home before i guy off ebay etc.
If you could still send the carby Doc that would be great and atleast fully rule that out
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bit of a update, spent a little bit of time today on bike.
disconnected the tacho again and also the temp sensor pickup off head - no different
inspected the coil, the grey insulation appears to have no cracks at all so think that is ok at moment.
chucked battery back on charger to see if it would do anything different, it did, it went to 100% after a while on fast charge, put it in bike and within 5 clicks of indicator it was dead....checked it, dropped back to 2v approx, then out of bike on the bench the Volts began to climb again ...WTF ? so its back on charger now on trickle charge, already shows 100% though ill leave it overnight to give it a good charge and see how it is.
Havent checked cap yet...dont think it would be that and havent bypassed the kill switch yet, thats next.....might have some cash coming in soon so might handball to a shop i think as im starting to deplete tests really.
i think the points are fine, though i could swap them out....will see.
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Havent touched bike in nearly 3 weeks!
awaiting points and condensor in mail, also looking at buying another ignition coil just need to spend a little time checking ebay etc.
Cheers
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Nice to have a bit of a break..then you can get stuck in again... :P
Lifes a journey enjoy the ride 8)
cheers A
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summed it up very well mate, i think i needed to step back for a bit so i didnt lose interest or get disheartened re. trying to get it running prob.
cheers
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My 4 week hiatus from playing with bike is over, i feel happy to get back into it now.
points and condensor arrived, just bought a coil off ebay that suits 6V and appears perfect fit re. mounting holes, will see, i will try it first and see how we go before i fiddle with taking things apart to get to points and condensor
fingers crossed
cheers
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Got new coil, installed, zero difference :(, so next it's condenser and points to swap over.... Getting frustrating now lol
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Even a Electrician can get it wrong sometimes..one wire can make you come screaming out off the shed.. :o can understand your frustration... :)
Cheers for the Christmas Festive Season and well done on this great project 8) 8)
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Ok,
quick update.
let bike sit another 3 weeks or more, then i fired it up the other day just to fang around the estate same problem as always ofcourse, also clutch stuck....will sort itself out due to sitting around not being used.
Also seems to hunt a little when backing off in gear....
i stopped off at a motorcycle shop nearby (Greensborough motorcycles for the locals)
Spoke to owner steve about bike symptoms etc, he mentioned he thinks it could be main bearing and the movement alters the point gap at higher revs etc.....now i dont know much so could be the exact problem.
what do you think?
he said to do main bearing if required would be like 50$ part and 500$ labor so that would be a DIY myself if it is the case as i dont want to spend the cash and would rather fix it myself and learn.
Any other ways to test main bearing ?
I still think its electrical...soo as ive said heaps i am going to .
Disconnect kill switch (steve from shop said they either work or dont shouldnt be that etc)
change points
change condensor
he can do points and condensor for me etc but once again id rather battle it myself and learn + i hate parting with cash unless i have to on a hobby like this.
i know im slow but as from the start ive not wanted to rush or become annoyed with the bike, the journey may be frustrating at times but will be funny to look back on when i figure out what the problem was.
anyone who rides around doreen area next time your out for a ride on a sat or sunday, please feel free to drop by (simon - 0418569006) and have a listen / look / ride and let me know what you think, would love an opinion from someone who isnt biased re. getting cash off me lol
Cheers
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Main bearing normally rumble when they wear, can be a bit hard to hear on a air cooled motor. Try taking the ignition cover off & see if there is any movement up & down etc when grabbing the flywheel/end of crank
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Cheers Tony, will do, thanks for tip.
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Hi Tony, i did the test the other night, there is movement but bugger all, had a mate from the DTT forum pop around on weekend, weather was poor so more chatting than anything but he believes the slight movement is normal not out of norm etc...
Had a bit of a play last night, noticed smell of fuel in garage, noticed fuel was dripping slightly from the nipple at base of carby, from bit of reading on net seems that it may occur as overflow when too much in bowl or float stuck etc....tested the float height with a bit of hose etc, seemed a little high so pulled carby apart bent tang slightly and lowered the level, still not 100% happy if i have level low enough so may do again soon.
Either way it made no difference to bikes symptoms - stammering as get high in rev range and hunting on deceleration, also set points properly at around .35mm no difference either.
Although i have got nowhere with this did teach me how easy float height adjust is etc and that ive cancelled out one more thing that could have been the problem. Busy next 2 weekends so in time i will replace the points / condenser and reassess again.
Pics below of float height prior to adjust...looks 5mm + too high
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/8be57bfd.jpg)
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Checked carby tonight.
The o ring on the main needle jet where it seals to the bowl was old n perished, I broke it off in pieces etc, replaced with an o ring i had, almost a perfect fit, you can feel it slot in when placing bowl on, not 100% perfect will source proper one, also the red crush type washer under the brass float needle seat thing was looking old n measured .39mm thick, spare I had in carb kit was .49 so put that on instead. Went for a ride, zero difference. Took carb back off an is in bits until I get o ring I'm 100% happy with , I feel though that this is not the problem and that it is ignition related which is next step once I'm happy with how carby is
Also another forum member mentioned that inline filters on 2 strokes can starve the fuel bowl making it run lean, from checking on net its a 50/50 decision it seems with others stating zero problems with similar inline filter to mine and running 40mm carbies. Its an easy test though so i will run no inline filter and see how that goes.
Petcock has new screen filter in it so doesnt worry me even if i have to pull carby down yearly to clean, ive had it apart about 4 times in the last 2 days anyway :)
slowly but surely it will run perfect one day
cheers
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Well well well, I got to go WOT tonight
I removed the inline filter which I don't think was the actual problem. I then spent some time playing with o rings and the needle jet holder. Realized the ok fitting one I added last night that had no effect wasn't fat enough, so I fitted one that is slightly larger, though sits a little loose on the holder once pressed into the fuel bowl it makes a nice solid click together, still will source a o ring that fits 100%.
Put carby back on bike and bingo, soooo happy, rode it around for 15 min, clutch released which was good as it had stuck over last 6 months etc.
So now I'm done with trouble shooting its time for tuning. Feels a bit wobbly at speed think back wheel is a little off centre, need to re align or also check might be a bit buckled. Then I'll take it to someone off forum or a shop to get it tuned properly before I give it a good ride.
Thanks for everyone's advice over past year, now the fun times begin
Cheers
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OK, back at work now refreshed after a 9 days of holidaying in Rutherglen and Sydney, lots of awesome food, sight seeing and still managed to fit in some training for tough mudder (only 2 weeks to go)
Arrived home to find the carby o-rings i ordered arrived, 2 identical so should last me forever, so on saturday after a 9 hour drive back from sydney straight to garage pulled out carby and installed the new o-ring, fits very nice and tight that you force to carby bowl on before you can put screws in etc.
also checked a few main nuts / bolts to check still torqued up, tightened chain a little.
Adjusted point gap back to around .40mm and spark plug at .80mm
Sunday gave bike a good 30km ride approx on road mainly with bit of dirt.
Bike seemed fine, able to cruise along ok at 80kmh although sounds like its revving a fair amount (havent hooked up tacho yet.
Bike feels fine other than the rear wheel / tire feeling a little wobbly, may be i had a little too lower PSI and being a trials tyre with soft side wall it was moving around a bit. Think i will take off rear wheel and have a go at truing it up rigging up a little stand to hold axle on bench etc, from memory it always had a slight buckle and its ephasized when at speed on road.
Also looked into getting a fold away trailer as dont really want to do that much road driving if possible and would rather cart bike to where i wanna ride and hopefully future Vinduro type casual events.
Easytrailer seem to be the goods and fold up to only 65cm wide so easy fit beside car in garage.
Good value also
(http://easytrailer.com.au/multifunction_trailers.html)
Still want to drop bike off / meet up with someone who knows 2 strokes heaps to get there opinion on how bike is running / tune up. The trailtech dash i have showed engine temp (read off head bolt) peaked at around 165 celcius and hovered at around 155 while riding along.
See pic below of plug after around 15-20km of riding peaking at 80kmh etc, looks nice chocolate to me, this is with bike on stock carby settings and needle on stock position 3, running a new oiled Unifilter.....look ok to you ?
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/c700704b.jpg)
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Plug looks fairly good to me.
Glad it sounds like you've finally gotten it running properly, normally turns out to be something small causing the frustrating running problems & always the last thing you check
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Quick update, spent an hour or so in garage last night cleaning up and painting the slimline luggage rack (optional accessory back in day) i got from a generous guy on OZVMX forum, he supplied me this one and also the more AG style large one you typically think off with a kelpie sitting on.
For me i really wanted the slimline and the guy surprisingly had both types which he supplied free! i just had to pay for postage.
Got the angle grinder on it a few months ago taking off extra tabs that were welded on by prior owner for side saddle bags i think. Yesterday i wire wheeled it to take off surface rust etc then just a 360 grit sand then painted 4 coats of Sating Black which was supplied in spray can from my powder coater incase i ever wanted to paint things to match my frame
:)
Happy with how it came out, will fit it up tonight most prob.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/0c3ffc34.jpg)
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The plug was darker as in rich prior to the ride, that was taken after the ride finishing for last few seconds at idle then key off etc, tonight I screwed the air screw back in 1/4 turn so it's at 1&1/2 turns out as specified online for
Model, workshop manual states 1&3/4 turns out which I feel might be a little too on the safe side n rich. Will continue to check plug and will get someone to look at it off a forum who is a 2 stroke head etc.
Pics below of rack on, also Kelly enduro bag on front with first aid kit within.
Also let tyres down then went around all spokes slowly tightening each one 1/4 turn, went around each wheel around 4 times until they were all the same tension, some didn't get any further Tightening after rotation one as already were tight ( supposed to be around 25 lb torque) just went by feel etc. also had a bit of a go at truing up rear rim, seems better, I think the standard tightening of the somes fixed it really as some were fairly loose.
Cheers
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/8a4517c4.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/dde7ba07.jpg)
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Went for a ride today, the wobbly feel is basically gone, the tightening of the spokes worked perfect :)
I bought some glass wool muffler packing sheet stuff which looked identical to the old orig stuff within the muffler. i cut out one 10cm X 10cm x the 1cm thick patch of it which was perfect wrap around then hold in place with some wire before slipping back in. I didnt notice much sound difference but atleast i now know its doing its job properly re back pressure as there was only around 40% of the orig one left.
Did around 30km today on the road, max speed around 80kmh as where i ride is fairly hilly, think ill limit the amount of on road riding as i dont think the bike likes it much, at times around full throttle in 5th to get up hills etc.
The engine temp peaked out around 185 degrees Celsius on way home, i was around 5 km from home so decided to pull over and klet it cool down / check plug and injectolube etc.
I had also noticed some ticking / knocking sounds throughout the whole ride, which i think are always there / have always been there even years ago, prob normal not sure ?
Took side case off to check the oil injection pump was working properly re. lineup point and adjusting in line with throttle properly which it was.
Also checked the plug, see pic below, figured it might have been a tiny bit lean so i turned air screw back in slightly so set at 1 & 1/2 turns out
Now i also just noticed in the garage that the carby is leaking slightly out of the nipple at the base of the fuel bowl, if i tap the carby bowl with my finger each time i tap another droplet of fuel comes out, any ideas what this could be ? float stuck ?, float set too high, seems to have appeared after todays longer ride at higher throttle openings etc?.
Cheers all, your advice is valuable
PS - looking to have bike at the HBBB at broadford on either sat or sunday (depends on mate with utes work arrangements) to show ppl from various forums / let them have a ride and give me feedback on anything and everything. So if your there and want to check out bike / give me some feedback after a fang let me know - 0418569006 - Simon
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/2a23c686.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/9793e48f.jpg)
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OK - Question for all.
Filled bike up with fuel the other day 7L approx, did the ride as above.
Got home, that night and from then on leaking fuel out of overflow nipple on bottom of bowl. Now i know my petcock doesnt fully close off when in off position, normally not a prob, but im thinking that the extra volume of fuel is forcing its way into the carby to overflow it ?
That night i whacked a hose on bottom nipple and wedged it under seat to catch / stop flow, ofcourse this backfired and just allowed the fuel to fill carby and into cylinder as would not start, spitting fuel out exhaust pipe flange and wet plug :(
Drained tank, removed petcock, replaced tap rubber.
Removed carby, checked carby, evidence that fuel was heaps high, bowl gasket all wet etc. Was a fair amount of rusty crud in carby from tank as last two rides were first ones with full tank washing around inside pulling through crud.
Main jet was 80% blocked with crud - blew it out.
Put carby back on, put back in place the inline fuel filter i had on previously, with clear hose so can see if starving due to filter etc.
Put petcock back together, still leaks on off position though alot less.
New plug in, bike eventually started, as heaps of fuel still in cylinder engine i think
Took bike for ride (15km) felt really good. parked last night, checked hour or two later - zero leaking from fuel bowl nipple.
Open garage this morning - smell of fuel and constant drip from nipple :(
So question is can a full tank and dicky petcock force fuel into carby, needle jet seemed to seal well enough that me blowing through fuel line could not get air through unless i let need valve drop out, as if zero fuel in bowl etc, didnt have to depress the internal spring for it to stop me being able to blow through.
Or do you think it is more related to needle and seat, as in theory the needle and seat should be able to stop the flow even with fuel left on, which ppl forget and do all the time. I will pull out, inspect etc, although im thinking it is fine as i could not make air pass when blowing on fuel line with needle only just in closed position with no pressure etc.
PS - i think i will piss of my orig cumbersome over the top petcock for a simple basic small one.
Also now thinking i will have to check my engine oil for petrol in it due to extreme flooding it had, i will take carby out / apart / check everything then test the carby overnight with tank on stand on bench and carby rigged up level etc, easier then taking in and out of bike and more petrol in oil, dont want to change the oil multiple times would rather do it once and save some cash..... bloody carby's eh.
All advice welcome, cheers all.
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Carby breather hose is fine, can blow / suck through it in the position it is/has been in.
Checked the oil, smells perfect, zero fuel smell at all, no change in color either etc.
Cheers
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Bit of an update on Kawasaki.
Now lives out side under cover while play with Suzuki.
Today I reset the point gap to check all good, set at .34mm.
Also at the time I checked the fly wheel for any movement, there is no in out movement, no left right move,ent but there is a slight ...I mean very slight amount of up down movement. I wedged my finger in behind the fly wheel to the back plate while doing the jiggle and that appears not to move, it appears to be though not sure if possible that just the fly wheel is moving slightly ?. I checked the Suzuki as motor on bench, that has zero movement - nil, although that engine the big end bearing is gone.
I got myself a torque wrench today as sick of borrowing father in laws and also a fly wheel pulled for re,oving the Suzuki flywheel etc. then went to buntings and grabbed a bit of flat steel so that I can make a bracket to check the torque on the Kawasaki fly wheel nut. The nut feels tight but it may not be the correct torque and thus could move slightly?.
Checking on google etc, loose flywheel it says bottom end gone etc bike will be hard to start and left crank seal will be gone and will blow smoke severely....bike doesn't do that at all.
Also I was home I'm Mildura recently so dad gave me a nice old c clamp and a huge 5" ish bench vice "Dawn" brand, heavy sucker weighs 25kg. Will clean it up and most prob just keep to install in my next garage in years to come.
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/0A6433F9-4DE3-451E-A8FE-BD9722AFAB3E-17271-0000326EB68DB179.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/048BBAC9-6B0E-4ED4-B025-0CC8EC880959-17271-0000326EB2A9D17E.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/F9E5C34C-E40D-449E-8FD7-B4C1D30B92AF-17271-0000326EADD6CD99.jpg)
(http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/3419E370-85F1-4B0B-A6AA-F7B5CE7FD4D5-17271-0000326EA6DE67B9.jpg)