OzVMX Forum
Marketplace => Wanted => Topic started by: Freakshow on January 31, 2011, 12:25:15 pm
-
Mate on the hunt for a 1980 PE 400 crank web - clutch side, and also the main shaft (sprocket run's on)
-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-SUZUKI-PE400-PE-400-T-CRANKSHAFT-ROD-CRANK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4152d17629QQitemZ280562333225QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Suzuki-PE400-PE-400-Transmission-Main-Shaft-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2e9778d7f2QQitemZ200109774834QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
-
PM sent :)
-
thanks Billy.
Leith , have a good look at that stuff the crank ends more rooted than this one and the other.............
-
Yeah I hate how the crank ends flattern out I have one that has done that.
-
Yeah i didnt bother looking closely. They can be repaired by any decent machinst in your area though. Its gonna be hard to find a seller of one though unless frosty wants to part with one ;D
-
typical Pe 400 problem ....broken key way at a guess.
-
whats the fix ? cheaper option or HF
-
I may be able to part with one I have 3 bottom ends I have been working on. ::)
-
freaky, pretty common on these to have the primary drive nut come loose and break the key way .
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/248.jpg)
-
Haven't seen that before Stu but you know how they flare out on the end like some one has hit the end of the thread with a hammer and mashed it up on the fly wheel side that is a pain.
-
or better still weld the forker on :o
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i180/mutchoo/184.jpg)
-
frosty, I would have about 6 cranks that have had the hammer treatment on mag side or rooted key ways ::)
-
You would have loved seeing that when you took the case off.
To think that we get mad when people weld a gear lever on, my cr250 has one foot lever fixed welded because who needs folding levers. ???
-
Basically you could machine a whole new web and shaft, or machine off/press out the shaft from the web (not sure how its fixed) and then machine up a new shaft with taper, keyway, threads etc and fit it to the old web. Bingo fixed. These days you can almost reproduce or fix anything.
-
For the one pictured here by Oldfart. An easy foreign order, repair for a fitter/machinist/plant mechanic, in a general workshop.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/248.jpg?t=1296466125)
Thread is good, although an easy repair, if not.
Weight wise, good second hand gears are cheap to post to a crank in comparison and come up regularly on US ebay. See if still available new?
Just weld the crank shaft damage up. Rip back to within a ten of a thou, to produce a nice K6 transition fit for your new second hand gear. That key-way was and is an easy cut in a milling M/C(not open slotted). The trick is to cut it into the opposite side of the shaft to the damage, into the original undamaged parent metal.
Key fitting is another trained skill, not learn't from Wikipedia. The key fit must be precise. 243 Threadlocker on the nut will be fine and allow easy future servicing.
If you are not confident with your key fit. Use 601 bearing lock on the key-way and shaft.
Thoroughly clean and "prime" all surfaces if you want the loctite to work correctly.
from memory, I believe the crank seal runs on the back on the gear, and is therefore the renewable surface. There will be no need to harden or grind anything.
GUARANTEED.
Of course a good second hand one at the right price is also a real good option.
-
Shaft appears to be part of the forging.