OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Honda => Topic started by: YZ250H on November 11, 2010, 10:23:40 pm
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Just got one of these - it needs a few parts. What are some of your favourites for genuine and aftermarket bits - even some trick stuff I'd be interested in.
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Tony - small odds and sods - www.re-mx.com - very good and reliable.
Also David Silver I think it is in the UK had/have lots of Honda parts.
cheers
Rossco
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Ebay, ebay and um...ebay.
What are you needing?
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Just bits and peices that have been replaced with the wrong things. Nothing too drastic. Nuts and bolts and the apparently extremely elusive kill switch :o :o ;D
Maybe a bit of bling - you know what I'm like ::)
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i have seen cr250 kill swith go for 70-80 usd
they arent cheap
there is a 1975 full recoed 125(so the seller said) engine on usa ebay
jim
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Just went out and had a closer look at the compliance plate - starts with a 2 :o :o
Does that put me out of pre '74 - probably a stoopid question ::)
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they list kill switches on Re-MX. Funny thing was with the Honda parts - I used to buy my grommets from Re-MX for maybe $3-$4 each (Genuine Honda) - at the same time Genuine Honda ones on Ebay US were going for $60-$80 for 4!!!!!!
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1973
CR250: Frame: CR250M-1000216~, Engine: CR250ME-1000001~
1974
CR125: Frame: CR125M-1000009~, Engine: CR125ME1000001~
CR250: Frame: CR250M-1000216~, Engine: CR250ME-1000001~
1975
CR125: Frame: CR125M-2000006~, Engine: CR125ME-2000001~
CR250: Frame: CR250M-2000216~, Engine: CR250ME-2000001~
1976
CR125: Frame: CR125M-3000001~, Engine: CR125ME-3000006~
CR250: Frame: CR250M-3000216~, Engine: CR250ME-3000001~
1977
CR125: Frame: CR125M-3100001~, Engine: CR125ME-3100001~
1978
CR125: Frame: CR125M-3200025~, Engine: CR125ME-320002
CR250: Frame: CR250R-2000010~, En
1975 IS AFOLLOW ON OK FOR PRE 1975
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You are a champion Jim 8). For a minute there I thought I was without a pre 74 ride again :o :o. Not cool.
Thanks for the advice fellas. Those links are very good. If I find anything cool during my research I will let you know.
Cheers
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it's pre~75 Tony,
and y'know those Honda's are sloooowwww..... :D
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the 75 is far a better motor than the 74.i wouldnt swap for my yz125x its just nice
jim
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you can still buy bits & pieces off your friendly local honda dealer too as well as what the others mentioned some gen parts are exxy but theres nothing like the real thing!
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Mick, the bike will certainly be slow with me on it ;D. I've heard 090's goes OK though ;)
I'm pretty happy with it - has GMC pipe and new top end. Just needs a tidy up - a bit of paint here and there, some proper nuts and bolts and a bit of zinc plating and it will be sweet as 8). I will post some pics if I get time.
I'm off now to make friends with my local Honda man ;)
Thanks again boys - a great relief to know I can still race it pre 75. All I have to do is find the spark and we are in business ;D ;D I'll fit the new coil and see if that was the culprit. The old one looked very dodgy.
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So the coil I got from MCS was the wrong one :'(
Where would I buy the right one ?
I ordered this one blind (without looking at the old one)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/tbarsby/022.jpg)
I then discovered it looks like this
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/tbarsby/020.jpg)
The MCS is now for sale if anyone is after one.
HELP
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G,day 250H, I noticed your frame looks to have been redone,is the coil earthing properly to the frame?,paint/powdercoat stopping a good connection perhaps! Big K might be worth a try for a secondhand coil if thats the problem,I think the only new coil you could buy that is a straight bolt up to the frame exactly is a nos honda job :)
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Hey Smed, you are right the frame has just been redone. It could be the problem, but I'm not so sure. Obviously I will give it a try. The photo doesn't show it very well, but someone has bogged up all the connections like the high tension lead to the coil. It's a very dodgy job :o.
I will give Mr Honda a go and see what he has to say for himself ;)
I can't be the only guy in the world with CR125 coil problems surely ::)
Thanks for your help 8)
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The ignitions are pretty bullet proof on those things. Just buy some second handies and be done with it. I might have a system you can try, to find your problem.
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No worries Brad, I will do some measurements with the multimeter first to see if I can find the problem that way. Apparently there is no such animal as an aftermarket coil for these jiggers. I was dodgy on buying second hand as you never know how long these things will last and wether they are any good anyway.
I will have a look when I get home. If all else fails there is always PVL - aussie dollar is pretty strong.
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T - if you go PVL - check out Rex Caunt racing in the UK - can buy bits and pieces rather than whole units in the US - much cheaper?
cheers
Rossco
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Thanks for the Tip Rossco - I'll have a look at them.
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Anyone got a Honda Manual that gives the resistance readings of coil, etc. The Clymer one only has advice to check continuity - which is only a pretty basic go - no go test.
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THat looks like a normal jap Coil nothing special.
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Freaky, you left out one very minor detail - where would I get one ;D ;D
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My CR125M1 coil is stuffed too, just found this.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?productId=p201281
AJ
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Unless the mounting is different to the picture that one is all wrong (for my bike anyway). Appears to be the same as the black one I bought.
Mounting centres for mine are 80mm.
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g'day Tony the new coil you have looks like it is for a CR500RF 1985 model
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Yours if you want it Hoony - Free to a good home ;)
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250H
Did you try the black coil? From the other thread comment was that coils can have a wide range of use.
The Dennis Kirk website lists a large number of bikes for this coil which supports this view.
The mounting points are different, it looks like the aftermarket item has only one mount, but it may still work.
Electrics are not my go, it's frustrating when you are trying to move forward on a project.
AJ
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Haven't tried it AJ, but you do raise a good point. It's probably good enough to get the bike going until I can find the right one. Will also prove one way or another if it is the coil or not.
Sometimes you need to have the obvious pointed out to you ::). I bought this one from MCS before having a good look at mine. It said it was good for "early CR's" Obviously not the prehistoric ones ;D
If that fails I will buy PVL after Christmas expenses are out of the way ;)
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OK ..... Finally got some time to myself to play with this thing. Fitted the new coil - although totally wrong mounting should be OK (for a test anyway)... Nothing >:(. Next stop the stator.
I did measure the old coil and it was open circuit on the HT side, so.........
I have measured the following resistances at the connector near the airbox.
Black/Red to Red/White - 151 Ohms
Black/Red to Green - Open circuit
Red/White to Green - 136.5 Ohms
Can anyone verify these readings one way or another :-\
BTW - Contacted Freaky's mate in SA. HE has one, but it doesn't have 80mm mounting centres :'(.
PVL is looking better all the time ::)
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Just checked my stator off running bike,black/red -red/white 157.4. black/red -green open. red/white - green 140.4. usually they qoute within +/- 10%,so yours should be o.k.
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Tony - if you decide to go PVL just drop Lozza (from this forum) a line first - tell him I sent you (and when he stops laughing) he maybe able to help.
cheers mate
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Just checked my stator off running bike,black/red -red/white 157.4. black/red -green open. red/white - green 140.4. usually they qoute within +/- 10%,so yours should be o.k.
You are deadset legend Smed 8)
Well that only leaves one place - CDI and wiring - possibly earths - Doh that's three places ::)
At least I can rule out the stator - relief 8)
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Just checked my stator off running bike,black/red -red/white 157.4. black/red -green open. red/white - green 140.4. usually they qoute within +/- 10%,so yours should be o.k.
You are deadset legend Smed 8)
Well that only leaves one place - CDI and wiring - possibly earths - Doh that's three places ::)
At least I can rule out the stator - relief 8)
Don't always assume the stator is good because the ohms reading is within spec. I had to replace one last week that tested ok but the bike wouldn't run, as soon as i replaced the stator the bike started and ran perfect.
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Just checked my stator off running bike,black/red -red/white 157.4. black/red -green open. red/white - green 140.4. usually they qoute within +/- 10%,so yours should be o.k.
You are deadset legend Smed 8)
Well that only leaves one place - CDI and wiring - possibly earths - Doh that's three places ::)
At least I can rule out the stator - relief 8)
Don't always assume the stator is good because the ohms reading is within spec. I had to replace one last week that tested ok but the bike wouldn't run, as soon as i replaced the stator the bike started and ran perfect.
I find substitution with a known good part is the only way to acuratley confrirm if an electrical part is suspect . As Jonnny O says test can be very time consuming and missleading , Tony there must be somone your way who can lend you some parts to substitute ;)
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Thanks for busting my bubble Bill ;D ;D I was happy not to have to replace the stator ::)
Brad did offer I might just take him up on it.
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I did!