OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: VMX247 on November 01, 2010, 09:56:57 am
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(hypothetically) store a bike for 20-30 odd years..?? no chook pens please..
cheers
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http://www.carcoon.com.au/bikebubble.html
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(hypothetically) store a bike for 20-30 odd years..?? no chook pens please..
cheers
I dont think it can be done completely successfully without age damage, engine i would fill crankcase and cylinder/s COMPLETELY with oil, buy a comlete set of engine seals for fitting later,clean and grease EVERYTHING easily accessable,coat fork legs with crease, rims and spokes coat with grease OR spray with anti-water fluid (wd40 etc) every month or so (i would remove tyres so rim inners can be treated as well).I would also buy another seat foam and cover.... 30 years later just rewire your electrics,fit new tyres and tubes, service shocks and forks, drain refill engine and carb, GOOD TO GO! I would probable also store it in my house itself as its always drier in the house, sheds get moist with temp changes due poor ventilation,no insulation in walls/floors/roof cavity etc.
Phew, hope that helps!
Kt
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It depends where you are we are close to the sea here and stuff will rust up in no time the bike cacoon seems cool I have only ever seen the carcoon if your inland somewhere dry as long as things are garaged they are pretty right.
We got a car last year from Wangaratta it had been in his shed since 1986 no rust on a body that are prone to rust and there is one I know of the same in Breamlea that is stuffed so depends where you are alot of time a guy I know in Silverton NSW has cars in his yard and they have no rust stuff gets covered in red dust inland NSW but I'd rather red dust than rust. ;)
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Maybe Cryo Freeze it, michael Jackson Approved
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I just got a set of NOS Marzocchi forks that are just over 30 years old.
They are coated in some sort of wax and are like new underneath. I've seen car manufacturers use something similar, but not sure what it is.
No doubt they'll need seals, but everything else seems to have been protected very well.
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I know in Silverton NSW has cars in his yard and they have no rust stuff gets covered in red dust inland NSW but I'd rather red dust than rust. ;)
Long ago, I had a VE Valiant from Broken Hill area. No paint, but absolutely perfect, straight and rust free.
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Yeah when i buy a lot of NOS british stuff from UK suppliers. its supplied greased/waxed and coated in paper.
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after last months flooding here I firmly vouch for what I remember as Tectyl Spray grease. A while after the flooding when I thought I had all the water damage under control I found 2 large plastic containers under the bench. I tried to pull them out and the box split and water went frickin' everywhere..again ::) anyway to cut to the point the boxes amongst many other things contained a reco'ed greymotor head, a couple of cranks, 3 or 4 camshafts, tins of valves, valve spings, pushrods, cam followers etc etc. Over 15 years ago when I stored this crap I wasted a large can of this Tectyl Spray grease on these parts. I am absolutely flabergasted to say not 1 item has any sign of rust or water damage even after total submersion for a week or more..I'm very impressed and on the hunt for more! Comes off with a bit of kero or turps but otherwise it stays and is dry to handle ;)
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Freaky isn't far off the mark, keeping moist oxygen away from any type of metal is the secret, the seat is the hardest thing to preserve.
You'll need a big cryovac bag.
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in the late 70si was racing pre 62 bsa/jap roadracer.there was a guy who lived in morpth west of newcastle who worked in the merchant navy. he bought a lot and i mean a lot of pommy bikes back including manx 7rs and g50s ect ect on the deck of the boat.it was covered in some black sticky stuff and after much cleaning it came off and evey part was in perfect condition.i bought bsa stuff from him.chck with machinery importers for coatings
jim
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Slider is on the money. To have rust on steel you need oxygen and water - heat increases the speed of the reaction. Then all you you need to do is stop electrolysis from dissimilar metals being together (aluminium rims causing zinc plated spokes to rust, alloy triple clamps eating fork chrome) and the elasticisers in your plastic / rubber escaping and you've got it all covered.
A cold dry dark vacuum would do the trick - like Melbourne :D :D :D
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just sell it ???
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you could also try DENSO tape for the fork legs. We use it to protect exposed bolts etc in the process plant at work so when we go to change something out it doesn't need to be oxyed etc. Would probably only be good for the forks though.
cheers
Rossco
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As I've previously mentioned on another thread, when I bought my 17 year old NOS Champion frame, it'd been fully coated in Vaseline and wrapped in Glad Wrap. When I removed all of the gunk the nickel plating was as good as the day it left the platers and didn't even need a polish, unusual for old nickel plating. I guess it'd be a bit hard to treat a whole bike with the same process but I can't see it not working.
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Spray the whole lot in soft seal ;)
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so firko, some lube and a large condom?
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that great but what was it ::)