OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: monaro308 on October 29, 2010, 02:01:40 pm
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I've have come to decide what to do with my RM125T.
I've mentioned that this bike has a 100 crank and top end after the previous owner/s seized the big-end and decided to use the 100 parts to keep it going (must have had a spare 100 engine and used the above parts)
Trying to work out if its worth rebuilding the crank with a new rod kit and putting it back together and selling as a 125.
The bike came with all the original 125 top end and blown crank (crank is fine).
Sell it as it is with all the parts and let someone else rebuild/enjoy the bike....i never ride it.
What do they charge these days for a crank rebuild??
The bike is quite nice,rear shocks (damn hard to find) is in excellent condition and has new oil and regassed,shafts spotless.
Forks,the same only the lower legs look dirty from the crappy varnish.
Seat cover A1,front and rear guards and side covers were painted before i got it,tank isn't painted but very good.
It has a N model swingarm and brand new rear tyre,90% front M12,new sprockets and chain.
The rear axle took me ages to find (nuts on both sides).
The rest of the bike is nice too....runs ,stops,
Not sure what the front plate is off...part no 94911-14100 (maybe a cut down 125X plate)
What do you (Suzuki boys)all reckon???
Fix it up as a 125 again.....more cost to me
Sell it as it is and let someone else fix it?
I could wreck it out and maybe make the same money as it is (dont care about the money)
I'd like to keep the bike,but i don't ride it,it will give me the extra room,etc
HELP!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/RM125Tright.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/RM125Tleft.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/rmplate.jpg)
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What's a 'blown crank' ? Big end or something with the webs? Anything more than $50 to rebuild a single cyl crank is a rip off. A rod lit could be had for $100 or so on ebay.
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Yeah i had 2 cranks done by www.iwt.com.au and both times they were about $30
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Decent looking bike, I would return it to 125, its worth SFA as a 100.
Bit of a polish up and some decals and it ends up VMX prime rib.
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/IMG_7871.jpg)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/IMG_7886.jpg)
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Hi Marc. Is it in Australia?. I could do with a project like that .
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Hold onto it if you can, as they are becoming sort after ( Rm 125 T ). I'm in the throws of rebuilding mine from scratch and it's in the same condition as yours .....rebuild budget is around $1000-00 ??? we will see ;D
I'm sure someone will help out with a bottom end ( 125 )
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Lozza...yeah just a seized big end,so a rod kit and put it all together.
I could do it at work as i don't have a press at home but work is getting a bit funny with doing "home stuff "
If thats the going rate,thats pretty good.
Thats a sweet looking 125 Marc,i remember the last time you showed those pics and yes you are right as a 125 it is worth more,plus i like the look of the T models.
As a 125 i would probably/most likely end up riding it anyway.
Oldfart....post pics of your build...for motivation ;D
Ok decision done......i'm keeping it and will clean it up and get it back to a 125.
cheers...mario
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Oops, I thought it was Marc's bike!
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Oops, I thought it was Marc's bike!
It was built for the owner of Chaparral Honda/Suzuki / every thing in the USA. Lot of good bits, but good make over of Monaros bike would see it looking similar.... the bones are there just needs some lovin.
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Where are you Suzuki boys buying your rod kits from?
Just checking for my 125T motor and know that the rod does about 48 models
There are NOS kits around that do DS/TM,RM etc but the difference seems to be the crank pin from what i can see.
Any recommendations from here or the US?
Just doing the sums at the moment.
Thanks...Mario
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http://www.bbimporters.com.au/search/index.php?step=5&make=SUZUKI&model=RM125&year=1980&category=Connecting+rod+kit
This is Pro X brand kit
Current part numbers
Rod
Part # = 12161-39300
Part Description = ROD,CONNECTING
Model Count = 48
A100M 1976 98 A100 STREET
DS100C 1978 100 DS100 DUAL PURPOSE
DS100N 1979 100 DS100 DUAL PURPOSE
DS100T 1980 100 DS100 DUAL PURPOSE
DS100X 1981 100 DS100 DUAL PURPOSE
DS125C 1978 125 DS125 DUAL PURPOSE
DS125N 1979 125 DS125 DUAL PURPOSE
DS125T 1980 125 DS125 DUAL PURPOSE
DS125X 1981 125 DS125 DUAL PURPOSE
RM100A 1976 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM100N 1979 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM100T 1980 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM100X 1981 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM125B 1977 123 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125C 1978 123 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125-M 1975 123 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125-N 1979 123 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125-T 1980 124 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125-X 1981 124 RM125 OFF ROAD
RV125A 1976 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125B 1977 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125K 1973 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125L 1974 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
RV125M 1975 123 RV125 TRACKER DUAL SPORT
TC125A 1976 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125B 1977 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125J 1972 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125K 1973 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125L 1974 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TC125M 1975 123 TC125 PROSPECTOR DUAL SPORT
TM100L 1974 98 TM100 CONTENDER OFF ROAD
TM100M 1975 98 TM100 CONTENDER OFF ROAD
TM125L 1974 123 TM125 CHALLENGER OFF ROAD
TS100C 1978 97 TS100 HONCO DUAL SPORT
TS100N 1979 97 TS100 HONCO DUAL SPORT
TS100T 1980 97 TS100 HONCO DUAL SPORT
TS100X 1981 97 TS100 HONCO DUAL SPORT
TS125A 1976 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125B 1977 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125C 1978 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125ERT 1980 124 TS125R DUAL SPORT
TS125J 1972 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125K 1973 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125L 1974 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125M 1975 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125N 1979 125 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125R 1971 123 TS125 DUSTER DUAL SPORT
TS125X 1984 124 TS125X DUAL SPORT
Big end pin
Part # = 12211-03020
Part Description = PIN,CRANK
Model Count = 17
DT16B 1976 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT16C 1977 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT16D 1978 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT16F 1979 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT16G 1980 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT16J 1981 284 DT16 OUTBOARD
DT99C 1977 152 DT9.9 OUTBOARD
DT99D 1978 152 DT9.9 OUTBOARD
DT99F 1979 152 DT9.9 OUTBOARD
DT99G 1980 256 DT9.9 OUTBOARD
DT99J 1981 256 DT9.9 OUTBOARD
RM100N 1979 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM100T 1980 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM100X 1981 98 RM100 OFF ROAD
RM125-N 1979 123 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125-T 1980 124 RM125 OFF ROAD
RM125Z 1982 124 RM125 OFF ROAD
I would say that its just the length that is the difference. TS, TC, TM, DS etc probably use a different length rod
Ebay should be the cheapest
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Thanks leith for that info.
I think the rods are all the same but the crank pins are different (if thats what you were refering to)
I found this kit and the seller states that they are made OEM for Suzuki.
Can anyone ID the rod to be a Suzuki item?
At $30.00 US for the kit (just waiting on a shipping cost)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/SuzukiA100TS100TS125TM100TM125RM100.jpg)
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Whats the ebay link to that kit? It might be Long kit which is made in Japan.
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So there you go not crazy expensive to rebuild and suddenly the RM125 is worth gold.
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Get him to post a pic of opposite side of rod to see if it has the S on it. Is it from ole mate in Thailand ;)
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270396701141
Its possible Leith that it could be "long".
I ended up buying a couple of the "long" rods that cyclegod ebayed up a while ago (god bless him) for the PE175 to keep as spares.
At $40.00 i wasn't losing any sleep over them.
These ones at $30.00 seem to have the right Part# 12161-39300
Marc i suppose everytime i walked in the shed and saw the crap lying around and looked at the 125T sitting on the stand,i was "gunna" do this and that to it.
With the RM175 sitting there as well waiting for rec-rego,my lazy arse had no motivation to work on any of them.
Luckily my mate picked up his kids XR100 out of my shed yesterday,so there is 1 less bike to look at.
cheers..mario
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I was going through my "junk" in the shed and decided to pull down the the rest of the RM125B engine that came in this $50.00 alphabet beast from early this year.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/rm.jpg)
The top end had water sitting in it for god knows how long and i pulled the top end off when i got it home.
Just pulled the bottom end apart and luckily no water in the trans.
All in very good knick,main bearings rusty,big end of the rod moves fine but small end rusted (new rod kit i'd say)Cases good too.
I went back to the barrel and noticed this... Boyesen reeds?? Dual stage??
Or just home made jobbies?
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/RM125Breeds.jpg)
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Yes Boyesens
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hunt around and you can pick up replacements for about $20 Mario..#600 ;)
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Mario .... looks like it might have a C front end along with tank , triple are right . Fruit Salad can - are you telling us something ;D
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Thanks boys....i just checked a PE175D engine i have in bits and the barrel has the same reeds,possibly thinner than the B ones.
Just checking as the ones above looked home made but most likely weathered.
I think its a PE-C front end,definetly an N tank,I'm sure its an A frame,have to recheck the # and a B engine....hense alphabet bike :D
Doc got the PP brackets,the RM125T got the throttle after i raided the magura to go on my RM175EF.
Just stripping things as i was worried about water damage to the cranks and trans that were sitting in those engines before i got them.
PE175C,RM125B done... on to the PE175D now.
Then i'll pull me finger out and get the RM125T engine apart when the rod kit arrives.
Fruit salad...lol more like fruit loops with some of the crap sitting around......but i bet you lot have more ;D
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I would have said they were Boyesen #602
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And it's a home brand at that :D
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yup, onya Leith..602 is the duel stage RM125 from 1900-1978 sorry ;) my memory oops..600 are 185ER..close :P
Mario :-\ think I need only 2 more to complete the full set but my memory is failing obviously..I do know for sure that I only have 1 headlight though so it could be no more than 4 ;D
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602 is what i use in TS185/250 which is same as early RM250. I checked the Boyesen catalogue and 600 is for 79-80 RM125. On a side note ive got a 6 petal DG reed block for the TS185 to try out :P
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Doc i think you had 2 already as you mentioned 1 side was cable tied and got my 2....but like you said the memory plays funny buggers and i'm forgetting what i have.
Was there any way of IDing the reeds once they were out of the pack like a part# printed or etched on the petals?
6 petals Leith :D how you gonna keep the front end down!
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No part numbers printed on the reeds, but through process of elimination it wouldnt be hard for us to work out.
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I Had time to get stuck into the 100/125T engine.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng1.jpg)
Snuck the 125 crank into work last night and pressed the pin out.....nice mess
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng3.jpg)
A while ago there was debate about case differences between the 100X and 125 NT variety and crank diameters...ie 100 has smaller webbing to 125 and case volume.
I sort of sorted that out a few months ago in another thread.
This time i can confirm.....RM100X crank is the same diameter as the RM125T crank but the crank pin is at a different point...obviously.
Shame as this 100x crank is in VGC,nice rod clearance and .25 piston.
Barrel even has boyesens.....coming out of my arse at the moment,thats 3 engines with them!
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng4.jpg)
Another thing i can confirm is the cases are exactly the same and the only difference i can find is the engine # stamping. 100x - top 125T - bottom
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng5.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng6.jpg)
Even this # is identical (whatever it is ;D)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/eng9.jpg)
There you go,one for the ozvmx reference material.
Waiting on the rod kit to arrive and then to buy new gaskets and seals and slap it together.
cheers...Mario
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I still have an RM100T engine awaiting a home Mario. I was going to slip it into a TS100ER sleeper but there was a little too much frame interference around the gear lever area. Just means I'd have to mod the frame or make a linkage setup but this I didn't want as the TS has all parts and was/is to be re-assembled at a later date including a nos RM100B/C cylinder that incidently slips straight on ;D If all the bikes wearn't so difficult to get and I had space to move around them I'd be more inclined to get into these projects but at the moment with work and stuff it's just too much trouble..roll on winter 2011 ;)
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Would any of you kind hearted Suzuki boys have a scan of the RM125T service manual (i assume N to be similar) or even a pic of the specs page refering to the crank info.
The owners manual doesn't specify crank specs ie crank web width,rod clearances.
I have a PE clymer manual and an RM 81- 88 clymer which gives the specs.
Much appreciated ;D
cheers..mario
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Mario, my Clymer manual doesn't give rod clearances or other details except a crank width of 56mm (2.205inch)
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Doc, I have a pretty average RM100T Roller that you might be able to use, its in Newcastle area.
The Frame has a side cover bracket missing and there has been a dodgy weld repair to the lower engine cradle, the swing arm has a dodgy pivot bolt set-up and the rims are pretty much stuffed.
If this sounds too good to be true, then your welcome to it.
You will need a seat and a few miscellaneous bits to get it complete, I dont know when I will be up your way again, but I will keep you in mind if your keen.
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Sounds too good to be true alright ;D keen as mustard I am, thank Jason! 8) I have a little RM80 down that way at Mick's (Cooranbong). If nothing eventuates I may have to think about heading down to collect these treasures personally in the new year ;D
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Thanks Doc...looks like i have some homework to do to find the specs.
I measured the width and spacing between the crank webs before i pressed the pin out just in case.
Jason,i checked my RM100X cases and they are better than i thought.
I'll have to sit down and see how many parts are missing out of that engine and if its missing too many parts to be worth putting back together,i'll let you know about the other stuff.
What engine model year are you building?
I'm not sure how many parts of an 100X crosses over to the earlier RM100ABCNT.
cheers...Mario
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Mario, apart from the throttle and stickers the 100 T and X are virtually the same bike. Suzuki decided to fit a PE gear type throttle to the 100 in 81 but I dont suppose there was much point in going to floater or much of any up grade at all since the model was dropped by the following year. The writing must have been on the wall for the 100cc class.
On the weekend I took my young bloke out for a spin on his YZ100 and I think I had as much fun as he did. I cant wait to get the RM100 going, were going to have a vintage shoot out between the YZ100 G and the RM100 T.
If the RM is half the bike the Yamaha is it should be a treat, That lil' YZ hauls like a demon. I like the light switch performance of these little motors, they really howl when your on the pipe.
Our RM came with the STD 100 crank but a 125 barrel and head, surprisingly it ran, but not real well.
So after pulling the engine down, we found that the con rod was awfully floppy and the bearings were shot. I wont go right into it but you could say it was a can of worms. I bought a second bike for parts and I have just about got all the bits together to rebuild to a very tidy standard.
Still looking for forks with decent chrome and rear shockers that still have some life left in them. Stand by for the 1980 100cc shootout results when we have a contenter ready for the mighty YZ Hungey!
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i had a RM100T new back in the day, STD it ws the most sluggish thing i had ever ridden, changed the gearing from 12/62 to 13/59, and a few other mods and made all the difference. Handled much better than my mates YZ100G. Funnily enough there is now one grazing in the shed awaiting some (read-much needed) attention...Old Suzooks seem to be breeding, wonder what will be in there this time next year...
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Suzuki311,
I will make sure to check that gearing combo when I get new chain and sprockets, was yours a 428 or 520 chain? It looks like the 125 should have 520 std and the 100, 428 chain. What other mods did you do? I would think that the cylinder head could use reconfiguring to a centre plug arrangement, ie not canted and the 125 crank and top end would be the best and cheapest mods.
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From memory i had the local dealer tidy up the ports, ran a thinner head gasket which was available from Suzuki as an optional part, advanced the ignition timing slightly, had a modified pipe which had a 20mm section cut out of it near where it goes into the 'tail' part of the expansion chamber, (this mod was the most beneficial, with susbstantial gains when tested back to back with a std pipe). The std chain was a 428, and i pinched the half worn out set from my mates 125N (which also had 428 chain) to try. i have a DG gold head for one also.
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Yes the pipe does appear to have a lengthy expansion chamber and converging cone, I imagine shortening the pipe would increase mid range to top end HP. Do you rate the DG head, it seems to look just like the STD head but with Radial fins? I spoke to Lozza about this and the most efficient design is reckoned to be a central plug, normal to the piston crown.
The best part about the RM100 is the parts interchangeability with the 125, in the T models anyway. When the boy outgrows the 100 We can upgrade to 125 with a few susp changes and the donk, which shouldn't be difficult to source.
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Yup, DG head is more of a wank factor thing, looks good though! You are correct as to difference in power with pipe mods, and yes, if you go through the parts book, most bits (but not everything..) interchanges with the 125T motor. They can be a cheap source of parts for anyone needing 125t engine bits.
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I wonder if this is mod is what you were talking about Suzuki311.
This is the pipe i cut up to use on my RM175 project...and now i realised i cut up the 125T pipe BUGGER!
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/tpipe.jpg)
This is on the bike with the 100 set-up and is definetly a 100 pipe as the inlet/flange is smaller in diameter
than the 125 flange.
I haven't measured the header diameter.I might have to run the 100 flange plate or chase up another 125 T pipe.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/rmpipe.jpg)
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Memory a little foggy, but from what i remember that looks like it! i often wondered if the same mod would work as well on a 125....
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Cut n shut the rear cone would not 'substanitialy' increase output (unless the pipe was way to long to begin with) it would condense the band and make it hit harder coming onto band with the bonus of more over rev.The output would be the same just some HP shifted from 1 point to another.
The 125 pipe on the 100 cylinder would probably work a treat to as can the TS125/100 cylinder.
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Lozza, same part no. for both 100 and 125 pipe and muffler!! parts management at its best.....Technically you are no doubt correct, but "seat of the pants" testing showed a big difference with absolutely no other mods, even treid swapping them back to make sure we werent dreaming!! Go figure!
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I've have come to decide what to do with my RM125T.
I've mentioned that this bike has a 100 crank and top end after the previous owner/s seized the big-end and decided to use the 100 parts to keep it going (must have had a spare 100 engine and used the above parts)
Trying to work out if its worth rebuilding the crank with a new rod kit and putting it back together and selling as a 125.
The bike came with all the original 125 top end and blown crank (crank is fine).
Sell it as it is with all the parts and let someone else rebuild/enjoy the bike....i never ride it.
What do they charge these days for a crank rebuild??
The bike is quite nice,rear shocks (damn hard to find) is in excellent condition and has new oil and regassed,shafts spotless.
Forks,the same only the lower legs look dirty from the crappy varnish.
Seat cover A1,front and rear guards and side covers were painted before i got it,tank isn't painted but very good.
It has a N model swingarm and brand new rear tyre,90% front M12,new sprockets and chain.
The rear axle took me ages to find (nuts on both sides).
The rest of the bike is nice too....runs ,stops,
Not sure what the front plate is off...part no 94911-14100 (maybe a cut down 125X plate)
What do you (Suzuki boys)all reckon???
Fix it up as a 125 again.....more cost to me
Sell it as it is and let someone else fix it?
I could wreck it out and maybe make the same money as it is (dont care about the money)
I'd like to keep the bike,but i don't ride it,it will give me the extra room,etc
HELP!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/RM125Tright.jpg)
Two years on, is there anyone willing to add to this thread.We have come across a nice rm100n.Which would near make our 'N' family complete.
cheers a
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Two years on, is there anyone willing to add to this thread.We have come across a nice rm100n.Which would near make our 'N' family complete.
cheers a
Jeez Alison,
Haven't you bought enough this week :D
Stan.