OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Oldbiker on August 14, 2010, 12:14:44 pm
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Help! Ive tried a rattle gun, breaker bar, wd40 on the main nut behind the clutch basket and it wont budge! I need to get it off so I can get to the main crank seals. Anybody??
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Jam a thick folded rag into the pinch point of the primary gears to hold it still
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tried that, even in sixth gear and rear brake jammed on...I'll find a longer breaker bar...
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Some localized heat maybe. You better hope they havent used an incorrect grade of Loctite for that application if any.
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Get as long a breaker bar as you will find,leverage works!,i had a countershaft sprocket on a ZX6R on so tight i had never struck the likes of it before, we tried heat WD40, everything but in the end a long piece of pipe on the ratchet handle was the one that won the day.
cheers Dale.
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tried that, even in sixth gear and rear brake jammed on...I'll find a longer breaker bar...
Some old water pipe oh, 3 feet or more. Never has there been a more useful thing invented.
Slides over your socket bar and.. things get very easy ;)
Archimedes knew what he was talking about... (I think he went to school with Lozza)
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leverage works
Not always ;)
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It isnt a left hand thread by any chance?
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It isnt a left hand thread by any chance?
get a longer lever ;D (the Suzuki PE400 crank nut is l/h thread, btw)
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It isnt a left hand thread by any chance?
get a longer lever ;D (the Suzuki PE400 crank nut is l/h thread, btw)
If you read his initial post ? you will see it is the Nut on the clutch boss (main transmission shaft)(RH thread)That Oldbiker is troubled with.
If it is that tight or frozen(RH thread). Hey, Old biker? ? I would choose not to needlessly load that much duress through the transmission with a rattle gun. “Leaverage” is the correct practice. Apply “a lock” to the opposite force at the exact point of resistance (IE; to the clutch boss, as Yamaha call it). Yamaha did make a special tool, YAMAHA PART#90890-01022.
I have manufactured a stronger tool. I have two similar engines to get out very soon. I could post the tool to you? But you would have to post it “straight back”. Where are you? ? PM me with your details.
Trust me you will be pleased at how easy that nut loosens, when you lock the clutch boss with this tool.
PS; The nut that holds the clutch boss to the transmission mainshaftt is a RH thread, so apply a LH undoooing force.
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My TM125 was too tight to move when I stripped that. I ended up drilling a small hole in the nut and splitting it with a chisel. Wedging something in between the primary and clutch gears runs a risk of stretching or breaking the cases.
I agree with Mick De in holding the clutch hub so there is no load on anything else.
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My advice would be to heat it up a little, not red hot though. Then let it cool and get some penetrating oil to soak into it. Leave it for a few days. You will be amazed that after leaving it for a few days it come undone easy. If it doesnt then it sounds like you have a Loctite Horror story in the making. The stuff can be good when the right grade is used in the right quanties for the right application but if its not then it can be your worst enemy and it can end in tears if your not careful, but even if you are carful it can still end in tears!. If the incorrect type has been used you will find you need to get the nut extremely hot, almost to red. Anyway i hope its not going to get that bad for you. if a 2.5meter breaker bar extension doesnt do it then your only option is the heat method or Brents method of getting the nut off. if its the wrong sort of Loctite or Loctite used in the wrong quantity then a breaker bar no matter how long, wont loosen it.
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thanks all. I'm trying to get the DT's crank seals replaced and this other nut is in the way! Yep Ive checked it's a right hand thread, many time I checked. No I havent stuck a screwdriver between the teeth of the cluth basket. Tempted tho....Locktite eh? I got no heat apart from a match, so a long pipe hopefully will do the trick.
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you can make your own clutch hub holder by welding a piece of flat steel to one of the steel plates to hold the hub.
obviously the flat steel needs to be narrow enough to exit though the hole between the clutch basket "Tangs"
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Yeah, thinking back i have seen one of those, they are a good simple solution.
Dale.
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Dumb question but you have checked that the "lock washer" has been folded back?
Why anyone would use loctite here is :o
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agree heat on it (may loosen locktite) then a LONG bar
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you can make your own clutch hub holder by welding a piece of flat steel to one of the steel plates to hold the hub.
obviously the flat steel needs to be narrow enough to exit though the hole between the clutch basket "Tangs"
The right tool for the job Mr Hoony, So easy and so effective, if you have some spare clutch plates.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/FORUM015.jpg?t=1281853180)
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total elapsed time, 16 minutes. (http://v6pyuw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pfM2PkcWuiO8NLhk0gzepSdmsHjxNX9LYtdcM6TgX2ZwinCORv7Ey1R1nJ4zxEOBCpwe6qHyWNUNO1W2Pjv_hamCczNocUFpC/2.jpg)
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total elapsed time, 16 minutes. (http://v6pyuw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pfM2PkcWuiO8NLhk0gzepSdmsHjxNX9LYtdcM6TgX2ZwinCORv7Ey1R1nJ4zxEOBCpwe6qHyWNUNO1W2Pjv_hamCczNocUFpC/2.jpg)
Great stuff Luke ;D
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Why anyone would use loctite here is
Thats right but some people have no idea.
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well done Luke! yup I cant see any lockwasher on or under the nut. I have the nouse to remove that before I tried to loosen the nut...why would anyone use locktite here?
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so have you got it loose yet?
just out of interest is that area rusty or water damaged at all?
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I get the piston to just before TDC (so as all the ports are closed), feed some small (clean) piece of rope (approx 10mm wide) in through the plug hole and then turn the motor a little more to lock her solid that way. Once said nut is loose (or whatever else your playing with that you don't want the engine to move with) I simply turn the motor in the oposite direction and the rope pulls neatly out.
:)
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well done Luke! yup I cant see any lockwasher on or under the nut. I have the nouse to remove that before I tried to loosen the nut...why would anyone use locktite here?
Drugs, alcohol, ignorance, blended in copious proportions. Lets face face it you got to be happy they didn't have a welder ;D
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rope trick eh?? might try that 1
welder....cool
nah not this time...
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But in this case it is impossible for the old rope trick, it is useless, because the clutch pack is already removed. Aannd it is the centre clutch boss that old mate is on, not the clutch basket or crank nuts.
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you got it Mick! I have found a lock washer UNDER the nut! Sheeit whoever did the last rebuild really stuffed it!
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what type of lock washer?
i gather it is not a "tang" type lock washer but a shakeproof, belville or spring washer then?
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got too dark in the garage tonight. I'll dig it out hopefully tomorrow and find out what the hell it is. This bike is a challenge, not a project bike! It has new rings and piston, chain and I cnt ride the bloody thing til I do the crank seals
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Threaten to chop off its kids fingers one by one untill it gives in.....
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hey Oldbiker, did you get that bolt out yet or What ?
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nah, thanks for the help all of you lot. I'm concentrating on getting my IT400F going. I might take the DT down the bike shop and get them to check it out. Maybe some heat might loosen whatever is stopping the nut coming off.
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bunnings sell a Ozito eletrick rattlegun,$60,undoes ossa primary sprocket nuts in a blink,works for me, :P
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tried that too, no good