OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: mainline on April 05, 2010, 06:25:47 pm
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is there an easy/easier fix for this than cutting the old one out and having a new one turned up and welded in?
I started doing some work on the 125C tank this arvo, unscrewed the the fuel tap and there was nil thread on the alloy spigot welded to the tank. You could see where it had been though ;D The bike must have belonged to a plumber at some stage cause there was a heap of old thread tape in there, which seems ironic given there was no thread.
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Hang on the plumber line there is a bit unfair I am an apprentice plumber and I wouldn't do that ::) proper fix would be the go.
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That plumber would have charged a fortune to do that as well!! ;D
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I am an apprentice plumber and I wouldn't do that
that's cause you're not old and jaded yet ;D
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;) I might start taking my camera to work it would just get broken but I'd get some funny pics before it broke people do some funny things. :)
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The thread on that fitting is 14x1.0 mm, very fine thread and easy to strip! I have a die nut to clean the thread up Paul but if you weld another spigot onto it you will either have to buy a rethreading dienut (will be exspensive- maybe $100+ as its not a common thread pitch.....14x1.25 or 14x1.5 is common ) or fit some other kind of tap. Most taps are around $70. Dammed if you do, dammed if you dont!!. I would probably get a flat plate welded onto it and fit a YZ-H type tap. If you want to bring the tank around for me to have a look thats OK. PM me. Cheers John.
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PS, beware of dodgy oldfart plumbers!!! ;)
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I also have a spare tap if needed as they were fairly common on that era Yamaha - problem is the inner seal doesn't last long and isn't listed as a spare part. if you have to modify it like Davy is saying maybe better in the long run?
cheers
Rossco
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Mainline , an easy repair would be to come down one size ...NTP - BSP - and use an FI x MI adpt to bring it back to correct thread. If you have trouble reading what I have typed Frosty will put you straight ;D
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Look 3 posts up ;D
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The spigot coming out of the tank is quite thin Stu and Rosco your right about the taps leaking...... I've bought new ones and they have leaked straight away, that inner seal shrinks bad, plus the fact the friggin things are older than Frosty! Hey Frosty, are you coming to the Nats?.
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C type tap or H type more reliable ???. I have not had a lot of luck with H type (same as F), I think neither has mainline ::)
He would probably rather poke an eye out with a fork than use one of those crap things :o.
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Maybe fit a later 2000 model onwards type tap then......would still have to weld a plate on though.
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Sounds like a bugger to fix good luck with it, I don't know about the Nats if not this year next. :-\
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Yeah I saw your post, and left it alone. A bit like naughty kids you don't reply and they go away. ;D ;D ;D
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;D ;D ;D
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I have fixed tanks like this before, I just cut a new thread on the lathe & weld the piece on the tank, looks much the same as original.
Allow $66.00 plus postage to have something like that done.
Dearer than teflon, but it's done properly.
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Thats the go Paul, get it done by royalty..... none other than Prince Geoffery of the Morris principality!!!. If you can get it to 090 or Dodgee tomorrow we can take it down to his Royal Highness as he is doing some other repairs for us.
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Bugger, I was waiting on all the plumbers to have a good dummy spit over this one. Stew, you defused it with your option of leaving it go through to the keeper, but I agree with GMC's best option, fixed until someone cross threads it again.
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with regards the shrinking inner seals - leave the "spare" one soaking in some of that "stuff" you buy from auto shops for old engines to stop smoking exhaust - apparently it causes a heap of 'swell" inside the engine and does the same thing to the inner fuel tap seal. Have tried it once and it worked a treat! ;D
Thanks Bill ;D
cheers
Rossco
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Sounds like a plan, i'll try and get on to dodgee tomorrow. Otherwise Stu's idea might be worth a try
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Their leaving tomorrow about 5 or 6pm for Mehico, give them a ring.
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steel YZ tanks have a brass thread {same thread pitch as the alloy YZ tank}.
it's the same as some Oxy threads. pretty common with oxy/actylene gear.
plumbers would know.
cause us boily's do ;D
if your really stuck you could braze one in.
and be buggered if i'd buy a feul tap for $70 :o
you can get one from a small yammy road bike {same thread} available from Yambits in the UK/ebay
deilvered to your door for much less than the Davey Crocket price.
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Bugger, I was waiting on all the plumbers to have a good dummy spit over this one. Stew, you defused it with your option of leaving it go through to the keeper, but I agree with GMC's best option, fixed until someone cross threads it again.
The plumbers are out with their gaylux 4wd and fishing boats on one of their 600 RDO's a month ;D
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YZB fuel tap - NOS - delievered to the door for about $35 - lots on Ebay US
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if thats the same taps as i seen advertised there not the torpedo type the original YZ taps where, there those stupid round ones with the on,res , off etc and worth $5, post the link Rossco, lets see which ones yer on about
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14 X 1mm TAP (http://cgi.ebay.com/14mm-14-x-1-Metric-HSS-Tap-M14-x-1.0mm-Pitch_W0QQitemZ110512124069QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100330?IMSfp=TL100330011002r21063)
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needs to be a die nut Lozza
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needs to be a die nut Lozza
Noooo it needs a THREAD FILE (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/THREAD-RESTORE-FILE-METRIC-FREE-POSTAGE-UK-MAINLAND_W0QQitemZ300410259150QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET?hash=item45f1d8c6ce)
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mmmm..... that looks like you could do some damage with it.
Having another look at the offending item (after removing all the thread tape the plumber put on it) most of the thread at the top of the male piece is pretty good. Given that the nut only engages about three turns at best, I'm going to try cutting a few mm off and retapping/cleaning up the remaining thread and see how that goes.
I might steer clear of Lozza's latest find in the field of thread repair weaponry and buy a die nut instead.
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the mob that Lozza listed for the tap, sell the die's as well. I'll see how much they are locally first.
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I have a thread file if you change your mind - welcome to borrow it ;)
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Thread files work a treat as when you file the damaged thread it has the correct pitch but the 'hills and valleys' on what you have filed are under the root diameter.So anything screws on very easy because of that. The files have a part on them for internal threads also
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Here's another solution .... buy an M & F adpt of same thread in brass use PERMABOND or LOXSEAL to bond. The brass fitting will have a longer FI thread - thus engaging threads that are not damaged.
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is there enough thread left to cut some of the stripped section off and then file/machine the spigot flat again for the seal/fibre washer to do its job?you can make a mandrill to suit a cutter sold seprately to suit those oring style tap washers,the cutter cost about $13 and a machined mandrill wouldnt be much
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well, I picked up a thread file, cause I figured it was something I could use again, whereas a die would be a one-off. Sorry Lozza, I thought you were having a lend when you first posted it, I'd never seen one before and figured it was like the "wankometer" tm you found on ebay. ;D
It certainly made things better, whether there's enough thread there now I'll have to find out when I test fit before painting.
Otherwise, Stu's plumbing repair idea might come into play.
is there enough thread left to cut some of the stripped section off and then file/machine the spigot flat again for the seal/fibre washer to do its job?you can make a mandrill to suit a cutter sold seprately to suit those oring style tap washers,the cutter cost about $13 and a machined mandrill wouldnt be much
I don't quite follow this Matt, I picked up what you're saying about cutting the spigot shorter and resurfacing it, but the Mandrill bit is over my inexperienced head ???
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I'd never seen one before and figured it was like the "wankometer" tm you found on ebay. ;D
Did it finaly get delivered? They were temporarily out of stock after the link was posted ;)
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I have used neat little 1/4 " (also 3/8 and 1/2) inline mini ball valves in nickel plated brass with a plastic cock handle and a hex body which you could use to adapt with the appropriate brass bushing. These wont break the bank at around $5-10 from Blackwoods. I have used these before and they are a quality peice of kit. You could also turn it 90 degrees out of the tank for a neater, less obvious installation.
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any chance a picture rocketfrog ?
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Mainline
a manduel is a guide for the cutter but goes up the spigot on the tankits keeps the cutter face square to the sealing face for the tap,if you wait till tafe goes back ill make one up for a few $
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Would it be this?
http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBANKproduct.aspx?SG=2000165&S=4084710&G=2003109&P=2023059
or
http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBANKProduct.aspx?SG=2000165&S=4084710&G=2003109&P=2023060
i still reckon best soloution is as GMC suggests.
Thread files are quite a handy tool to have too.
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Actually I was refering to this type http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/PartDetail.aspx?part_no=05947113