OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => CZ => Topic started by: tony27 on February 17, 2010, 02:58:37 pm
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Hopefully 090 can help me out
Have just received a rear hub from the states & want to paint it etc before having it spoked up & would like advice on what steps etc I should take
Beadblast?
Primer & paint or powder coat?
Best colour match if painted by hand
Any help greatly appreciated
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My old man painted the 360 ones. He sand blasted, primed and used an acrylic colour from Krylon. The paint is called 18 carrot plate, with a coat of two pack clear over the top.
The original gold is hard to match and this colour is not the same. Just gives the desired effect.
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Thanks for that, near enough is what I'm after just as long as it gives a degree of corrosion protection.
Am I correct in thinking etch primer is a no no?
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I don't know but dad would have used an acrylic primer.
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Tony
Be very careful blasting magnesium CZ hubs they will end up with pin holes completey stuffed :(
Nothing harder than glass beads if at all
Better to play safe clean by hand
Gold colour is a pain to match
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Our bead/sand blaster at work gets used mainly for removing the shine from aluminium milk bottle moulds to stop the bottles sticking, I dont think it would damage the hub but I will have a good look at how much prep work needs doing later today
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Remember to paint the inside as well....1 drop of water in there from washing or a wet ride and the corosian will start, I think magnesium is like a magnet to water so to be safe paint every bit......inside and out!!!, cheers John.
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Inside is something I'd thought about as well & will do.
Took the bearings out while at work, brake side was still the original from the looks of it but the other side had a needle roller fitted which wasn't so good. It meant the wheel was only located by the 1 bearing, the needle roller also wasn't as tight as it should have been & will need some careful checking to make sure the hub doesn't need bushing before I paint it
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Needle roller sure is wrong ,Drive side should be a twin roller type same as crankshaft mains 3205 ?
other side single row bearing 6205
Just make sure heat the hub and freeze the bearings when you replace them . banging bearing in or out cold will stuff the OD surface ;D
Sure we have all came across wheels that have had the bearing smashed in with a BIG hammer
Tony hope you can save the hub after buying it from the states
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Am I correct in thinking etch primer is a no no?
No, an etch primer is a good thing and is especially good for alloy/magnesium. I would recommend it.
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VMX60, drive/brake side is the normal double row type, its just the other 1 that was a surprise. The bearing came out easier than expected but is by no means loose so its shouldn't be a problem with maybe a drop a bearing mount loctite as a possibility.
The 69 hub that is in the bike flogged out its housing at 1 stage & I repaired it by boring it round & parallel then fitting a pressed in stainless sleeve which was then bored to the proper fit. Should not come to that though
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Good news
The 69 CZ sidepiper rear sprocket had rivets std are you restoring or racing with a bolt up sprocket ;D
Cheers
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The 69 rear wheel has been converted to bolt up sprocket, original had the teeth turned off & a new sprocket turned up to fit. Not planning a full on resto but will have to hide the mikuni from my father when it turns up. At the moment the bike is very original apart from the rear wheel & a falk front guard which needs the hot air treatment to widen it back to the proper width for tyre clearance
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Put the bearings back in yesterday & found about 1mm of movement/endfloat in the centre spacer, no play in the bearings only the spacer moves. I can't see that as normal as when you do up the axle it would apply force to the bearings. :(
Looks like I'll have to pull the bearings back out & make a shim to go against the shoulder on the spacer to correct this
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Definetly use etch primer and remember only to put a verry light see thru coat
ps I'm a spraypainter and used to be a tech rep for Du Pont
hope this helps
cheer's