OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: Ji Gantor on November 14, 2009, 01:43:23 pm
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Just picked up my Summer burner a Yamaha YZ125 L 1984.
The bike is a basket case and needs just about everything doing, whats new.
This bike has been run on the beach because all the lower nuts and bolts are rusted away.
The chassis has a fair rust problem and will need some hot love via a welder.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L1.jpg)
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There was some coolant sitting around the head gasket so I pulled the plug to discover coolant on the plug.
The head gasket must be blown.
This could have been from overheating due to poor coolant circulation.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L3.jpg)
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make sure you save the "go the rat sticker" during the resto
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With the plug out check the timing.
Insert the timing gauge into the spark plug hole, raise the piston to top dead centre and mark the gauge.
Back the piston back down to timing BTDC.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L4.jpg)
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Then check the timing mark on the flywheel. it should line up with another mark on the magneto backing plate.
I do this just to see what the last guy did to the bike. Forensic work on the dead body if you like.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L5.jpg)
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Check out the air filter.
If the previous owner was riding it without a filter or a disolving filter then the engine will need a total rebuild.
This filter is clean but oil free.
5 out of 10.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L6.jpg)
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The L was the third YZ125 to get a power valve system. This system is very similar to the first generation power valve installed into a YZ. Check to see if the valve has been installed correctly. The hole in the lever arm should line up with the hole in the cylinder. I adjusted this one to get it as close as possible via the slotted hole adjuster. It still does not line up but not to bad. The engine would still start with the valve in its current location.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L7.jpg)
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The exuhast pipe on this bike is in very good condition. No dents just a little surface rust.
Nothing a lick of paint will not cure.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L9.jpg)
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Lift up the fork skirts to see if there is any rust on the hard chrome sliders.
Nope, these look pretty good.
The seals have a build up of dirt and stuff but are still soft so I will check their oil content and see if the seals are still functional.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L8.jpg)
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Check the rubber carburettor boots, front and back for holes or cracks.
These ones look like new.
Best I have seen so far.
Most of the time they are perished.
Yamaha do not have any more of these boots so if needed try Ebay.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L10.jpg)
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hey Ji, whereabouts did you pick up your Dial Indicator. I'm having trouble finding one that locks into the spark plug hole like that
Cheers
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Hi Paul (AKA Mainline),
The Rat stickers are going to have to go.
The two stroke timing gauges are made in the States.
They come up from time to time on Ebay.
If you need to use it I will come over and time your bike if you would like.
Ji
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Another system on a bike that never seems to get any attention is the linkage system on a mono shock.
Owners just keep on running their bikes through salt water or sandy tracks and never even give the linkage a second thought.
The linkage system has about twenty bearings and seals and should be serviced at least once a year.
All the seals and bearings on my old girl will have to be replaced.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L11.jpg)
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The shock on the L is rather state of the art for its time.
It had external compression and rebound adjustment.
This shock when tested by pushing down on the seat and releasing has no oil or gas.
It is totally working off the spring.
When we take a closer look we see some oil drops which have leaked out of the seals.
The shocks need a rebuild but the spring is quite stiff and only needs a paint job.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L12.jpg)
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If you are going to paint or powder coat the chassis always check to make sure that all the brackets are still attached and in the right place.
This bike has a side number plate bracket broken off.
I will have to mock up a new plate with the number plate, tack weld it to the frame and then TIG it on.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L13.jpg)
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Looks good Ji looking forward to seeing this one done if it turns out anything like your other bikes thanks Michael. :)
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Due to the salt water running the spokes are cactus.
The nipples on these bikes were aluminium so they look okay but I bet they will break when I go to remove them so new spokes can be fitted.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L14.jpg)
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Thanks for the kind words Michael,
I hope to make you all proud.
These Yamis are just great fun.
I am addicted.
The parts are hard to find but they look and work great when done.
Ji
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Hey Ji
Love the resto story mate.Keep them coming.
Cheers
Craig
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I have NOS front and rear spokes if you want them $300, your front rim is rare as rocking horse shit, do everything you can to save it, I also have a mint rear rim if yours is buggered.
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Before we strip down the bike check the electrical system.
Buy a spark tester for about $12 and set the gap at about 5mm
Connect one end to the plug lead and grab a bolt with the aligator clamp.
Then with the spark plug out actuate the kick lever.
If everything is good we should get one or two nice blue archs each kick.
This bikes electricals are just fine.
If I was a better photographer or not so lazy I would have tried to get an image of the blue spark, oh well back to the bike.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L15.jpg)
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Hi Craig,
Thanks for the kind words mate.
But are you a Suzi man.
Ji
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Hi E74,
Do you have the alloy nipples to go with the spokes?
The front rim looks new no loss of gold anywhere.
The rear has signs of saltwater corrosion. When I take the tyre off I will see how bad it is.
Thanks for the offer mate.
The wheel truing jig is still going strong, I think I have used it on 10 wheels so far.
Ji
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What is wrong with being a suzi man Ji. ;) I like all bikes I have one of each of the big jap brands thanks Michael. :)
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Cheers ji/rob, I'll see how I go during the week. Vandy has kindly offered to bring one to Nudgee next weekend, so worst case scenario I'll have a look at the timing there.
Thanks
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Hi Frostype,
I used to have a Suzuki RM125 A when I was 17.
My brother Still has and loves Suzis.
Can Suzi guys be seen on the Yami page?
Riders seem to have the Holden Ford thing.
Ji
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Hi Mainline,
Cool mate.
Good luck.
Ji
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The previous owner told me that there were a few parts missing so last weekend I got on the phone and ordered all the missing parts.
I sure do love the smell of new parts in the morning.
Watch out when installing and removing these old gaskets they contain asbestos.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L16.jpg)
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Ji,
If I rember correctly the "lug" on the powervalve linkage isn't used for valve alignment.
When removing the linkage you rotate the retaining nut until the hole and lug line up, then insert a dowel (small screwdriver will do), you then can apply pressure to the nut to remove.
Damage to the powervalve can result if this is not carried out.
Best of luck, I have a test on one of those I think, if you want a read.
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I have the nipples.
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Hi Evo,
Great advice.
I would love to read that test, thanks.
Ji
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Hi E74,
Have you got any photos of the spokes and nipples?
That sounds like a great deal and I need two sets.
I normally use S/S spokes but OEM sounds okay too, especially if I get the alloy nipples.
Thanks mate
Ji
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Should look good Ji you are kicking along quite well my dads mate has a yz100 with a dg head I have been after it for a while but he doesnt want to sell it thanks, Michael. :)
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Where do you get the SS spokes from Ji ??
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Hi Frostype,
Keep chipping away, you will get it one day.
I will start stripping the bike tomorrow.
Ji
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Hi YZ,
I have not purchased the S/S spokes yet.
E74s offer is way to good to pass up.
Ji
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Yeah - I agree, but what about for the other bikes you have done ?
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Hi YZ,
I get my S/S spokes from John Titman.
Ji
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Hey YZ,
Go to "Tech Talk", "Fixing A Wheel"
It should give you all the spoke info you will ever need.
Ji
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Hi Ji
Yes I have a Suzuki disease and even though you have a dirty Yamaha I wont hold it against you.
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Hey YZ,
Go to "Tech Talk", "Fixing A Wheel"
It should give you all the spoke info you will ever need.
Ji
Thanks for that - valuable information as always
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Well Suzi43 you are right.
I stripped the L today and yes it was dirty.
Ji
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With the exhaust pipe off I can take a look at the condition of the engine.
This piston looks sad.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L18.jpg)
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The power valve looks carboned up.
I can not be sure if it is in the right position.
It certainly looks like it is not fouling anything.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L19.jpg)
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With the piston lowered we can see some honing marks on the bore.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L17.jpg)
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With the shock off the bike we can start to break it down for servicing.
The first thing to do is degrease and clean it.
Then if you have the tools remove the spring.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L20.jpg)
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yep they are the rough sand paper hone to get the seized piston to move up and down again.
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The shock looks like a Ohlins copy.
This small hole is how the end cap is removed on an Ohlins shock.
You place a brass drift into the hole and tap the end cap off.
We have a long way to go before that happens, of course.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L21.jpg)
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The castle nuts or pre-load nuts have been adjusted using a screw driver.
This has left them chopped out and hard to rotate.
A pin spanner is a better choice and does not damage the castle nuts.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L22.jpg)
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This shock has no oil or gas left in them so they will need to be serviced.
Depress the valve to release any residual.
This will prevent things fly about when we pull the shock apart.
When I depressed the valve nothing came out.
Unless you know what you are doing do not pull a gas filled shock apart. The gas is pressurised at about 250psi.
Yamaha will service these shocks for $250.00 plus parts, it is not worth the risk.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L23.jpg)
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Thank you Walter.
There you go $120 plus parts.
It is not worth loosing an eye or even buying a tool. The gas to charge a shock will cost you $25 and the oil is around $10.
Ji
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Nice work Ji i'm just starting on a YZ125K for my kids ,I better hurry and try to keep up it will be good inspiriation to get it done .I picked up a New Works Cylinder and pistons for it and a Rebuilt seat off Powerhouse Motorcycles so i need to keep going now .Thanks for the push.
Hilly.
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Hi YZhilly,
You don't want to restore that old thing. Sell it to me.
Seriously, Stop working on your bike I need all the parts.
I hope this thread will help you and a few others that are thinking about some aspect of their bikes.
If we all share our knowledge we make life better for ourselves.
Please post some images of your bike here so we can all see what you are up to.
Ji
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Good reading thanks Ji.
It's got me excited about my own RM125 project!
Believe me, I'm not going near any rear shocks...
Tex
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Hi Tex,
The springs on these shocks are like those on a bear trap.
It took 15 minutes to get it off. Normally I have the spring off before the pot is whistling.
Go luck with your RM.
Ji
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This is going to be such a cool rebuild I wonder if VMX magazine would like to run it.
I guess 090 Brad's Twin Pipe CZ would be more rare.
Ji
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Yeah have contemplated selling it but i want to finish it for next Viper season so that my kids can ride it .It's not pretty and i dont think it's gonna get real pretty either . It will all be done in my shed with what i've got at hand ,i have been stockpiling bits for it over the last couple of years and should be able to get it up and running quickly . I will get some pics up soon.
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So you are not going to buy any parts.
Welcome brother how can we help.
Ji
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Nah Ji i'm off work still after a minor jump mishap at Barrabool in August and probably another 2 months ,so this will be as budget a rebuild as i can do with what i have .
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Sorry to hear that you need a rebuild mate.
Hope you get well soon.
If you need any help let me know.
Ji
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The power valve is not indexed via the holes lining up.
The holes should line up.
As previously stated when removing or installing the power valve you must place a pin through the holes to hold the linkage system while tightening or undoing the retaining nut. If this is not done the linkage arms are bent and the power valve system is no longer timed with the engine.
My linkage arms are bent and will have to be replaced.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L7.jpg)
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Usually there is allot of wear in the linkage arms and its good to clean that up. The governor gear can be altered by removing one of the washers(if I remember correctly). For aligning of the powervalve in the correct position there was usually a DOT mark and that was to be at the top, and then the linkages tighten up. A good trick to do on the rebuild is to check that the powervalve opens completely and that can be done by lifting the linkage arm and checking the valve up the exhaust port. Put a small mark(line) on the mating surface of the powervalve gasket surface where the slot for the pin is pointing to when the powervalve is fully open. When you start the motor and rev it make sure that the slot for the pin goes all the way down to the mark(line) that you made. Also check that the powervalve cover doesnt foul with that slot, as I have heard of it happening.
Another thing to keep an eye out for is port timing.
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Hi DJ,
Yes I agree that the linkage arms and joints get sloppy and need a tighten up.
The power valve should be checked to see that they have full movement prior to starting and that the indicator arm does not foul on the cover.
The linkage also has a plate that is attached to it via 2 screws inside the clutch cover. If someone has not used a pin to prevent the valve rotating while undoing the fixture nut this plate can become bent and throw out the alignment.
The linkage boss a small rectangular plate with a slotted hole that fits onto the power valve prior to the linkage is supposted to have a punch mark on it that should point straight up. This places the the valve in the correct position. Unfortunately mine does not have the mark. This does not matter as long as it points straight up, which mine does not.
So as DJ suggests it could be the linkage arms, it could also be a bent plate inside the clutch cover. If the engine has had a hard life the power valve itself may be the problem. seized engines cause damage to the power valve. If the cylinder was bored out with the power valve in place this could create a problem.
The power valve holders one on each side of the cylinder are bearings or bushes. These also wear and can throw the indexing out a small amount.
I will be stripping down the top end this week end so we should have a better idea what is wrong come Monday.
Thanks DJ great add to this topic.
Ji
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There is a few good tricks with these type PV's ;)
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On Saturday we dismantled the rest of the bike.
The engine came out of the frame carb and all.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L24.jpg)
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In the afternoon we removed the head and cylinder and discovered all this engines darkest secrets.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L25.jpg)
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For all you that have not replaced your swingarm bearings and seals and for those that have not used the following product I present the All Balls Swingarm Kit.
If purchased on Ebay they don't cost much and arrive from the States in 2 weeks.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L10-1.jpg)
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The kit has all the seals, bushes and bearings required.
Normally I just take all the old bearings and seals down to the bearing shop and pick up a set but this is even easier.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L11-1.jpg)
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When ever performing an engine rebuild always replace all the seals.
They don't cost much and are usually easy to remove/install.
It can save heaps of time and money later when they do go wrong.
The first to be looked at with a water cooled engine should be the impellor seal in the clutch cover.
If this leaks you will have oil in the coolant and coolant in the gear box oil.
This seal was had it.
The aluminium housing is corroded so i heated the rubber up with a little gas.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L12-1.jpg)
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The way to remove this seal is by placing a small pin punch through the access holes provided in the back of the cover and tapping with a hammer. Fully support the cover when doing this or you may have to buy another cover.
I am sick of seeing housings destroyed by fools that try and remove a seal by bashing a screw driver down between the seal and the housing. This does not work and it will never seal again. Please if you don't know how to do it please ask and save the next guy that buys your bike the problems.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L13-1.jpg)
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When you have the clutch cover off always check the impellor, it is the heart of your engine. If it stops working the engine will blow.
This impellor has stopped working.
The plastic propellors have seperated from the steel shaft.
The shaft turns but no water is being pumped.
The unit is one piece when new. This unit is still one piece and may give the impression that it still works. Grab the plastic bit and the steel bit and twist, they should both turn at the same time.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L14-1.jpg)
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I needed a flywheel puller so I ordered one from my Yami dealer.
When I went to pick it up it was for a modern Yami so I decided to make my own.
I purchased a 40mm long M18 1.5 bolt and a 50mm long M8 1.0 bolt.
When I got home I placed the M18 into the lathe and started turning.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L15-1.jpg)
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Once all the work was done I had a new flywheel puller.
It cost $10 for the bolts and took half an hour to turn up.
The tricks to removing a flywheel are,
First soak the unit in WD40 for a while,
Tap with a pin punch and a hammer the woodruff key to make sure it is not binding on the flywheel,
Screw the puller on and tighten the end bolt to place force onto the crankshaft. Only use a small spanner for this or you may damage the end of your crankshaft,
If the flywheel still is not off, with a steel hammer tap the end bolt of the puller to jar it. Don't whack it just tap it.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L16-1.jpg)
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Ji, the other bearing that will need replacing is the one where the clutch actuator arm goes into the cases. Its usually a stubborn little roller bearing that requires a slide hammer. The oil seal that protects that bearing always seems to let a little water in over the years.
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Hi DJ,
Your to quick, but very right.
I am slowly getting to all the bearings and seals.
Just not enough time in the day to get them all done and posted here.
Great add mate, keep it coming.
Ji
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Ji,
Another thing to be wary of is the "all balls" kits purchased through ebay.
They are nortorious for being filled with the wrong bits, when purchased from a bike shop at least you can take it back and get it sorted, from ebay your stuck with what you have.
Good luck.
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Hi Evo,
Is that right?
How many times has that happened to you?
Ji
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Steering head bearings.
After thirty years of use, water, lack of maintainance and over tightening they are probably cactused.
Mine sure were.
After the forks came out I rotated the head and as it turned it was like it had a ball location selector.
The manual states that the bearing cups should be drifted out.
No chance ! The guy that wrote that manual obviously never removed the cups himself.
On these there is only one simple method, but you have to take your time and that is with a Dremel and grinding stone.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L17-1.jpg)
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Use the smallest diameter grinding stone and grind down to just before you reach the frame.
Then tap the bearing with a drift to crack the remainder.
Once there is a complete break the cup should come out easy.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L18-1.jpg)
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If you have done it right there should be very little damage if at all to the frame.
Back to the manual, it states that there should be a gap in the cup stop so a punch can be placed on the back of the cup and tapped out with a hammer.
I know my eyes don't see as well as they used to but I don't see any gap in the cup stop.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L19-1.jpg)
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Well that one way. I would have welded some waste steel in, like an old bolt, and whacked it with a punch from the other side ;) ;D.
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Cool,
That is another great way to get the job done.
Great add mate.
No damage method.
Just need a welder.
Ji
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Hey VMXKen,
Stop me any time if you would like this restore in the magazine !
Ji
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Twice Ji.
The dealer even gave me a verbal disclaimer of sorts when I ordered it, stating, "don't yell at me if their wrong I don't pack them, just supply them"
Both swing arm linkage kits. I've also eard of steering stem ones being wrong.
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Use the smallest diameter grinding stone and grind down to just before you reach the frame.
Then tap the bearing with a drift to crack the remainder.
Once there is a complete break the cup should come out easy.
No need for grinding, a couple of small welds on the bearing causes them to pull away from the frame as they cool
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Sounds easy Tony I will give that a go next time.
Ji
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The front hub may be of interest to some that are doing a similar restore.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Hub2.jpg)
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These are just like modern hubs except for the brake arrangement.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Hub1.jpg)
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Are they the dreaded z spokes?
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Yes, they are the dreaded Z spokes but fear no more as Buccanon Spokes in Good o'l sunny Californny can make e'm for you and there cheap too. Those hubs and spokes are one of the best looking combo's around in my opinion!!!.... and it's a twin leader as well. Just remember they are 32 spoke rims. My TY350 I restored has black hubs, stainless Z Spokes and black excel rims, looks awesome!!!.
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Hey DC can you upload an image of your rims and hubs?
I have not contacted John Titman yet to find out if he can make them because a member has a new set that he wants to sell.
Ji
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Mopping up the last of the new parts here in Australia.
This is the last power valve linkage arm.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L20-1.jpg)
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This is the last power valve holders.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L21-1.jpg)
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The last exhaust pipe bracket.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L22-1.jpg)
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I also bought this 1985 alloy gear shift lever.
It is second hand but should work.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L23-1.jpg)
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The last chain roller guide.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L27.jpg)
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The last swingarm linkage bolt.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L26.jpg)
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The last radiator hoses.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L25-1.jpg)
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The last inner rear mud guard.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L24-1.jpg)
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Yamaha's one size fits all gear shift lever.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L28.jpg)
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New DG pipe.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L29.jpg)
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Renthal bars.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L30.jpg)
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Light weight alloy rear sprocket 50 tooth.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L31.jpg)
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Pro Taper grips, the ones with the pillows.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L32.jpg)
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European made chain to go with the Euro white colour scheme.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L33.jpg)
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Clutch holding tool from Mr Ballard.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/L34.jpg)
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Buccannons ARE the only people in the WORLD that can make Z spokes!!!!!!!
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Hi DC,
Cool.
Ji
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Oh well vmxken I will keep pushing forward.
I guess my images are too dark.
Ji
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Hey DC,
Is this the Z spoke that Buchanan's sell for the YZ125 L 1984?
8SZSPOKE 8 ga STAINLESS STEEL Z SPOKE - single dia. $4.31
Web site address so others can see.
http://www.buchananspokes.net/products/individual_stainless_steel_spokes.asp
Ji
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Oh well vmxken I will keep pushing forward.
I guess my images are too dark.
Ji
Hi Robert (Ji) - if you want to have a go at me then it might be best to let all the forum readers in on your cryptic message. The short story is that some months ago Robert asked me if I wanted to put his blow by blow CZ resto in the magazine - after it had appeared on the forum. I declined, stating that the world had already seen it once, therefore it would be a bit repetitive to show it to everyone again in the magazine. Robert appeared to take offense that even under these circumstances I wouldn't publish his resto project. I haven't been asked directly about featuring this YZ125 resto in the magazine, although there was an earlier comment in this thread making just such an enquiry (after the resto had already started).
As for the dark images, I had advised Robert that some of the images he sent me of his finished CZ were a bit dark and he seems to have again taken some offense to that comment, although none was implied. I was merely commenting on his images, as I was asked.
For the sake of Robert and all other forum members, I am always keen to publish restoration articles or feature 'Reader Restos' in the magazine. Ideally, a step by step resto article would need to be discussed well before it commenced, so the direction and scope of the article could be jointly decided. As for photos taken by the owner of their restored bike, Jeff or myself are only too happy to advise on images that are most suitable for submission.
Keep up the good work with your forum-based YZ125 resto Robert, it looks like it will turn out very well.
Regards
'vmxken' Ken Smith - Editor, VMX Magazine
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Hi Ken (vmxken)
Hi Robert (Ji) - if you want to have a go at me then it might be best to let all the forum readers in on your cryptic message I am not trying to have a go at you Ken, This is how other members lead friends into a discussion after all this is part of the restore process . The short story is that some months ago Robert asked me if I wanted to put his blow by blow CZ resto in the magazine - after it had appeared on the forum This is quite correct. I declined, stating that the world had already seen it once, therefore it would be a bit repetitive to show it to everyone again in the magazine. Robert appeared to take offense that even under these circumstances I wouldn't publish his resto project Now, Now Ken you should take another look at our emails, at no stage did I ever get upset. I haven't been asked directly about featuring this YZ125 resto in the magazine, although there was an earlier comment in this thread making just such an enquiry (after the resto had already started) .
As for the dark images, I had advised Robert that some of the images he sent me of his finished CZ were a bit dark and he seems to have again taken some offense to that comment, although none was implied. I was merely commenting on his images, as I was asked. I am a big boy and not easily offended, I certainly did not take your comments about my images as an attack. This said your comments are not quite correct and I quote your words "They're all very dark and low res we couldn't use them in the magazine" This was the actual reason given for the rejection. After I explained that the images were perfect Ken then suggested that all the forum members had already seen the restore. My actual pitch was not a blow by blow rebuild but images of the bike completed and sited on the track at Conondale.
For the sake of Robert and all other forum members, I am always keen to publish restoration articles or feature 'Reader Restos' in the magazine. Ideally, a step by step resto article would need to be discussed well before it commenced, so the direction and scope of the article could be jointly decided. As for photos taken by the owner of their restored bike, Jeff or myself are only too happy to advise on images that are most suitable for submission.
a) After all this effort does this mean that a readers restore would be published?
b) How much does a reader/writer get for his effort $ ?
c) How long from submission to publication should said reader wait?
Keep up the good work with your forum-based YZ125 resto Robert, it looks like it will turn out very well.
Thanks for the kind words I will do what I can.
I would like all members to know that this is a forum where discussions occur on all levels.
This is another level of discussion and not an attack on Ken nor the VMX magazine.
I look forward to seeing Ken in the future and wish him a Merry Christmas.
Best Wishes
Ji Robert Gantor
Regards
'vmxken' Ken Smith - Editor, VMX Magazine
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Have you tried Ash's spoked wheels in Albion Ji, I have seen him doing "z" spokes in the past.
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Thanks Evo for the spoke tip.
I will give Ash a call if I can not get a set.
Merry Christmas
Ji
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Hi Robert - in reply to your questions a, b and c there are no set answers to any of them. They are all on a case by case basis. If you or anyone else wants to contact me about a specific article then I'd be happy to discuss that particular case. My phone and email details are on the Contents page of the magazine.
A very merry Christmas to you as well.
Regards
Ken
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I had an ex race YZ125n many moons ago was a great bike was much faster than stock later models. I done a full resto on it as well your thread brings back lots of memories!
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/zorroz/YZ125N.jpg)
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Bloody Brilliant mate.
What a great looking bike.
Ji
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There's an easier and quicker way to remove the steering head bearing cups.
Break out the old arc welder, run a bead of weld around the cup, and it should fall straight out into your lap.
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If you are planning a restore and think the VMX community would pay money to read about it than you should consider approaching a magazine editor. As the planning and execution are critical to success here is a Readers restore article survival kit. As always I am only trying to help my fellow man with this thread and these are my experiances writing for fishing magazines. If any one especially Ken would like to add to this I would be very pleased.
First you have to have a bike to restore.
Check the last four issues of the magazine you will be targeting, if they have already run a YZ125 resto piece than they will not run another to soon.
Next as Ken has said you should contact the editor and pitch your idea. The editor should supply a contributors guide line and offer any help they think you will require. Normally the editors are all "That sounds great, We would be very interested" This is code for send in your stuff and I will take a look. Don't be to excited at this stage as an editor gets 20 calls like this a day.
The back bone of any magazine article are the pictures. You will need a digital SLR that produces Raw images to a size of about 10mb.
You will also have to be able to use it. Have a look at the hundreds of images I have posted on this forum and if yours are better than mine then good luck. The images also have to have great back drops, good lighting, lots of colour, be interesting and tell the story.
You should submit at least 20 images of magazine quality from the beginning to the end. The magazine will only use about 6 but the extras will allow the editor room to move.
Next comes the hard work.
I would say that your success will be higher if you do more that a spray can restore. Purchase products and labour from companies that advertise in your target magazine. After all the magazine survives on having at least 75% of its pages as paid ads. This gives your article a better chance because now the editor has some thing to sell.
During the fix up don't tell anyone about your project, don't let any one take photos of your project and most of all don't post any images of even a nut on a forum.
Now that the bike is finished and you have taken hundreds of images, spent thousands of hours and out laid a months pay packet it is time to turn to your keyboard.
Now you have to be a Wordsmith.
I would say that you should consider writing somewhere between 1000 to 2000 words. For most first timers this should take about 30 hours. Remember spelling and grammar are important as an editor is not going to fix up your mistakes. Words are just words so don't forget to make this article a story that others will not be able to stop reading. Captions to images should explain the hidden not the obvious.
At this stage if everything has gone well this process should have taken about 6 months.
It is now time to submit your masterpiece to the editor.
85% of first timer articles are returned within the first month.
There is no guarantee that your article will be published.
If it makes it past the first month and the editor says he will publish it the soonest it could appear would be 6 months from now as most magazines are at least one issue ahead.
You can wait up to two years for your article to appear depending on other high profile writers work and room in the mag.
Lets say that you have success and your words and images grace the glossy pages, how much will you be paid? I would say that you can expect to get around $350.00. So when do I get paid I hear you ask? Well about one month after the article has hit the news stands.
So your project has come to a successful end, it may have taken 2 and a half years but now you can tell your mates.
This has been a generalisation and should not be used as guide. Please contact target magazines and seek their policies.
Good luck
Ji
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Or you can just ride the thing...... :-[
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for the life off me i can work out why the CZ RESTO WOULD MAKE IT INTO THE VMX MAG IN THE FIRST PLACE
YOU WERE TOLD THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED RE DOING .BEARING SEALS ETC AND YOU DISMISSED THAT AS NOT A GOOD IDEA AND WENT AND STUCK IT IN AND THE THE OLD PLONKER WOULDNT RUN ANY WAY SO,WHY PUT A BIKE IN A VMX MAG THAT ONLY HALF DONE ,JESUS JI AT LEAST FINISH THE JOB BEFORE YOU START WINGING , ::)
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WERE IS THAT CZ RESTO PAGE ON HERE SO I CAN LOOK AT IT AGAIN ,DID YOU EVER GET IT FINISHED AND RUNNING .LAST THING I REMEMBER WAS I ASKED IF IT WAS A RUNNER AT CD?6 MABEE AND SOMEONE ANSWERED IT DIDNT RUN
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Cmon Paul, you can't hear it running in the magazine. ;D
I think one issue with magazine material is it has to be news worthy. Sorry to say it but giving a spit and polish to an complete production YZ may have cut it in the early days, but unless you have recently welded the frame out of titanium it is not really news. The standard of the bikes available has gone up over the years so you are competing with factory bikes and other exotica for space. Not saying your bike is not good, it is good, but I think for a magazine build you really have to think even about what bike you are starting with and whether it will turn heads.
BTW I know of a titanium framed YZ being built.
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Thats when magazines begin to lose sales and fail to see the real picture.
Normal suburban people that have memories of owning and riding these bikes back in their youth.
Builds like Ji are what i want to read about in a magazine.
If i see another unobtanium on the front cover,all i see is a bike i can't relate to or afford to own.
How many times can a story be rehashed about a factory bike?
The fun is finding,trading,searching the net for your build and telling that story in the mag and the pitfalls of mishaps during the build.
Factory bike build.....white coat draw this,white coat machine this,white coat fit one off part to bike.
That won't help future vintage bike owner/builders.....I wanna read stories like JI GANTOR's builds.
I want to tell the mag how i built my bike not for them tell me how it has to be built!
Meanwhile i will enjoy everyones builds on here because thats how THEY built them.
My 2 cents and my view.
Keep it up Ji.....back to your build
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Thats when magazines begin to lose sales and fail to see the real picture.
Normal suburban people that have memories of owning and riding these bikes back in their youth.
When VMX started it was not a global magazine and people were not actually making a living off VMX, things have changed, there are now professional VMX builders and also what people do build in their backyards has evolved.
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Wow, what a great thread
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Whats happened to Ji gantor??
I was enjoying his rebuild and posts.....nearly 2 months since the last one.
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spat the dummy
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Someone told he was writing a book (on Sprites I think....... ::))
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or - if it means so much to you - you can supply the same documentation, high quality Jpegs and have your article all published on various web sites in a much quicker time frame - oh and be happy that it has been published and not expect anything for it. I just loved to have my "work/love" published rather than expect it to make a world class mag like VMX! After all how many Red CR250 resto's are there out there - can't expect them all to get published?
;D
Rossco
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Whats happened to Ji gantor??
I was enjoying his rebuild and posts.....nearly 2 months since the last one.
looks like we get to miss out on the rest of his resto due to his thread being filled with crap by others.
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what happened to Ji Gantor?
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Someone must have asked him to chase up some Hoonda parts...... :D
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Someone must have asked him to chase up some Hoonda parts...... :D
;D
only 1 "O" in Honda Rosss, you should have known that. ;)