OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Kawasaki => Topic started by: vmx42 on July 31, 2007, 04:22:11 pm
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Hi gtmpaul,
I just read your Introduction and thought you might like to see my partially finished KLX resto. A long way to go, lots of details and engine rebuild to come. This resto seems to be taking a long time - I didn't realise that owning a vintage motocross magazine would mean that I never get time to work on my own bikes.
Anyway, once our home renovations are done and I have finished painting and landscaping I will be back into it [probably after Xmas at this rate]. Anyway it is something to look forward to.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/vmx42/KLX_resto_3.jpg)
Keep posting the KLX images. Its good to be green.
VMX42
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wow looks great love the swing arm
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Hi,
would that be a KX125 tank as it looks a bit smaller, also are the forks KX?
how have you managed to overcome the rear shock problem, I have considered resiting the top mounts and use shorter shocks.
The pipe looks good too
Paul
a couple more pics
First one when it had a steel UK spec tank and seat
and what it looks like now
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/bike1.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/ridepics6406.jpg)
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Hi gtmpaul,
I noticed on your initial post that you said you had lots of KLX articles. I have been chasing one feature for ages now.
It was a comparison between 2 modified KLX's. It was in a US mag in probably 1980 or 81. From memory it was Cycle Guide. I lost this issue in one of my house moves over the years. You wouldn't have a copy of it by any chance.
I also have many KLX articles, some from Australian magazines that you might not have. If you are interested let me know.
Re my KLX resto. I made the pipe in 1.5 inch stainless steel [1st one I've ever done and it wasn't as hard as I thought], Geoff Morris made the muffler. The pipe is made in 2 pieces [with the join just behind the side panel] to make it easier to fit and remove. The stock one is a pain as you have to remove the airbox to get it off. It also has a rubber mount just behind the airbox to stop it being pushed over and melting the airbox. If anybody out there has a KLX airbox that hasn't been melted by the pipe - hang onto it [or sell it to me] as it will be worth a fortune one day. As rare as Rocking Horse Droppings.
I really like the look with the KX125 tank and side panels [much better than the stock KLX ones]. I have a KX swingarm that has been modified to fit the KLX [not on the bike yet, it needs a little bit more machining, but it really looks good]. The shocks are Technoflex in the original 18' length. Like you I thought about modifying the suspension but in the end I bit the bullet and bought the appropriate shocks.
The forks are 43mm RM Suzuki with the twin-leading shoe front brake - mounted in KX triple clamps [which just bolted on after swapping the stem from the original KLX clamps]. The KLX carries so much weight on the front end it really needs a decent set of forks. These ones have gold valves and the correct [I hope] springs. The twin leading shoe front brake should be much better than stock as well.
I've got a couple of engines for parts etc. I just have to assemble the best one. At present I am trying to get a megacycle roller cam [without much luck]. So as I said I will be back into it after Christmas. I really look forward to riding it.
Speak to you soon,
Thanks
Jeff Keen - VMX42
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Hi Guys, Its good to know there's a couple of others out there with a passion or problem centred around Kawasaki's early KLX.
I havn't much time so I will post later and outline what started as a bit of fun and then turned into an obsession to make a KLX both fast and reliable. Suffice to say many hours, much research and more money than I am prepared to state on a public forum (My wife uses this computer too) later, I think i've won
Anyway, I think I have the article you are looking for VMX42. If Iv'e done it right it should have attached. If not you will need to tell me where I went wrong
[attachment deleted by admin]
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HI Derail,
I checked your attachement and it was an empty word file. The images you imported weren't included.
As for where you went wrong, I can't say. I use graphics programs all day but I have an aversion to all things associated with Mr Gates - its Macs or nothing here.
I am assuming that the images you placed in the word files were scans of the article I was after? If so, just attached the scans themselves - individually. It would probably be sensible to do a test and just attach 1 to see if it works. Otherwise you can email them directly to me and I will distill them into a pdf file and put that up for the other OZVMXers to access.
You can contact me at: [email protected]
Always glad to meet another with the green affliction.
Catch you next time.
VMX42
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File works ok with mine, opens as a Word document.
Just a few more pics
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/Witthoft_KLX__1980.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/00163.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxad.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/kx250.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/78KLX250.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/2zz.jpg)
Paul
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Hi Guys, great to see all the KLX photos and literature. I seem to have problems attaching photos, but I will give it ago.
Like VMX42 I fitted a front end with a twin leading shoe front brake. Mine was from a CR Honda simply because that's what the bike wrecker had. The rear wheel is KX250 and I solved the melting air box by shaping a thin piece of aluminium sheet and riveting it where the pipe passed by.
The engine took heaps of time and I think I could put one together in my sleep now. Big bore, high compression piston, stroked crank, mega cycle cam, R&D valves and springs. Lots of attention to engine assembly detail coupled with good oil and an additive called Comp Cams and I have had no wear problems. The best mod is to fit that 1/2" piece of aluminium rod that comes with Mega cycle cam in place of the tacho drive in the head. That way all the oil floods the cam and rockers and ensures great top end lubrication.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Hi all
as I said I have loads of old magazine tests, I'll post a few if you tell me the secret of reliability.
counter shaft nut came loose on Saturday, luckily with no damage.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/4807.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxthebiker.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxthebiker001.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxthebiker002-1.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxthebiker003.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/gtmpaul/klxthebiker004.jpg)
Paul
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They are a nice looking machine, hmmm maybe one day... Thanks for the article, it'll make good reading when I should be working!
Tex
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Better add my 2 cents worth. I thought I'd lost this pic in recent times but I did manage to have it stored online for just such an occassion. The KLX below is kind of a joint venture with AJay but at present she's tucked away in the garage awaiting some spare time and spare funds. Still quite a way to go but she still looks the part ;D problem is for a short arse like myself it gives me nose bleeds everytime I climb on it ::)
(http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/8274/klxxt1.jpg)
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Lookin' good Doc! ;)
We'll have you weaned off those pesky Suzukis any day now..... ;D
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:D Thanks Ajay, I've always stated I'm kinda partial to Kwacks also. Green and gold..very patriotic don't you think! (truth is, pics can be deceptive, still a long way to go on this beasty) ::)
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Hmmmm that end can looks familiar ???
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;) fear not Loz, she was only fitted for start up and pipe hanging purposes. Truth be known, it'll be taking the bark out of a TM400 in the near future ;D
I be looking for an old retro Supertrapp for the KLX in the meantime.
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OK KLX lovers.... here's one for sale on eBay ;)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140145675268&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140145675268&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1)
Although I suspect the the asking price (let alone the reserve) is probably a bit high... :o
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The price as it sits doesn't seem too bad AJay considering you get a 70% spare bike thrown in. Looks like a decent going concern for a KLX enthusiast. I'd like to think the reserve would be under $3k or he may have trouble moving it especially when much later 2nd hand bikes seem comparatively cheap these days. Always hard to sell something that is/was your pride and joy. Even I have to admit I'd love 1 of those new fuel injected DRZ's..in my dreams ::)
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I've said it before but the KX/KLX's of the late 70s just looked the part didn't they?
Here's another view of the mighty dirt tracking KLX. If I remember right, the local Kawasaki dealer had built this machine and rode it in local enduros. There was a lot of work done on the head and it was pretty quick. The guy pictured here I think ended up buying it and dirt tracked it in our 'trailbike' class. He got along OK!
(http://www.ozvmx.com/images/forum/klx.jpg)
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I think that the KLX legend was born and has subsequently survived because the bike was genuinely good, considering it's era and limitations.
It was based on a KX125 chasis which was well know to handle really well (and this was translated to the KLX :)) but it had a lazy motor which also became legendary for it's inability to produce any sort of competitive power. ::)
Because of this weird combination of no power and great suspension and handling, most people could ride the thing pretty fast - certainly faster than expected, given the meagre power outut - but the power never would get anyone into trouble, so the whole experience was just a heap of fun! ;D
Of course, some people then went looking for more power and that often ended up in fractured motors and tears... (although rebuilding was still a fraction of the cost of today's thumpers, due to the basic materials used in 1980/1)
I had a KLX in the early 80s and raced club MX and Enduros on it and had a ball, along with nearly winning some events. For some reason, I still have this strong attraction for KLXs and think they still look great today. Naturally, I still have one, which hopefully will be restored sometime soon.... ::)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1052255/klx250-2lhs_1.jpg)
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gtmpaul,
whats the red kwaka twin in the photos? I love specials.
Roger
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Hi all,
I think that photo of the sideways KLX is a fake! it's been retouched or made with photoshop the only time mine goes sideways is about a millisecond before I fall off.
If you want more info on the Kawa twins, but it's in German
http://www.history-routes.de/hr_legenden/witthoeft.htm
Paul
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http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.history-routes.de%2Fhr_legenden%2Fwitthoeft.htm&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&safe=off&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools
Translated version.
That red thang is well presented
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Hi all,
I think that photo of the sideways KLX is a fake! it's been retouched or made with photoshop the only time mine goes sideways is about a millisecond before I fall off.
..GTMPaul it does look a little unbelievable I know but eh..it really is a correct and true picture of Mr Webmaster aboard the nitrous KLX with a stuck throttle :o the track is really Action Park at Maryborough I recognize that! it could even be the 6hr short circuit of years gone by (I think it was 6hrs ??? ) Then again it could be any number of a zillion meets..lots of oil made this track pretty bloody fast! 8)
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Yuma,
I don't know about the red one, but I have an old Trail and Track article on the green one which was manufactured by Kawasaki Europe to race in the German isde back in the early '80's If I remember correctly they used a z400 motor in the klx frame to race in the open 4 stroke class.
FYI got to www.thumperpilot.com to get your fix on all things four stroke and special.
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Hi all,
with ref to the KLX twins this is a link to some more info on them.
Paul
http://kz400.com/400/Binder1.pdf
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Hi people, it seems the humble KLX has a number of interested followers. The secret is out. I've found them to be light weight, handle better than most bikes of that era and if you can coax a bit more power out of them they hold their own on a motocross track.
Below for what its worth are some of the lessons I learn't and sources for parts I found when making the KLX engine go a bit harder.
As said before if your going to ride it hard get a Megacycle cam with the roller bearing mod or at least rebush the head where the cam runs using suitable bronze bushes.
If you do nothing else, get a piece of 12.5mm diameter aluminium rod 36.65mm long, take out the tacho drive in the head and put this in its place.(Comes std with a megacycle cam) You will have to cut down the spiral gear on the end of the std KLX cam that usually drives the tacho drive, but once done all the oil will now go to the rockers and cam.
With your new or reground cam only ever use new or reground rockers. While on the subject of oil, I found out the hard way that oil companies over time reformulate oil blends and while they sometimes put in better additives and also remove some of the old ones that were there to protect rocker pads rubbing directly on cam lobes. I now only use Belray Thumper oil and into 4 litres of it I pour a bottle of Comp Cams engine break in oil additive. ( it puts back all the good stuff) Its available from most performance engine shops.
Don't skimp- put in a new oil pump and very importantly put a new mesh screen that filters out any big bits (relatively speaking) before the oil goes to the pump.
Replace the head bolts with new ones. I have a number of engines and not one of them did not have stretched head bolts. The difference in length between new ones and used ones is enough to make you think you have the been supplied the wrong part. Since doing this I have no more leaking head gaskets. Torqued down to 25 psi they hold everthing together even with high compression ratio's (12:8:1 in my case)
I fitted a wiseco piston 72mm- 2 mm oversize (PT NO:4052 M07200) You may need to modify the piston top or valve cut out depending on the cam you use in order to prevent the valves hitting the piston at TDC.
If you get valves made, resist the temptation to have them made over size. Even 0.5mm oversize causes a problem with high lift cams as the valves run into each other on overlap at TDC.
Valves I got from RD Springs in the good old USA. I also get Valves springs from them. PT NO: VSK301-K. They don't have them stock but wil make them for you. If you can find some, S&W made them also PT No: 11-026A
All ths new power and youmight want H/duty clutch springs- try Vesrah PT NO SK-406
Funny thing about engines, if you change one thing you gotta change the rest if you want it to work right. An engine is an air pump. Once I bored it out and put a better cam in it, next came a bigger diameter exhaust and rejetted carb. It still would not run properly on the mainjet regardless of the jet size. Problem was not enough air. The only way I could fix that was to take that immaculate hard to get air box and drill the sides of it full of 1/2" holes
I set the ignition pick up on the flywheel with exactly 1mm clearance, never touch the throttle and it starts if its hot or cold. Spark plug standard is a heat range of 7. I use 8 and in some cases 9 (Long periods at full throttle)
Last thing I can remember is to check the cam chain tension bolt. The bolt is only meant to hold the tensioner mechanisim back when its fully retracted (for assembly purposes) The rest of the time it bottoms out and does not touch the rod inside the tensioner. The tensioner now self adjusts to keep the correct cam chain tension. Over time, often well intentioned people have replaced the bolt with a longer one. This locks up the tensioner and prevents it from self adjusting and leads to major damage due a slack cam chain.
Thats me done, I hope this is of some use to others, saves you some time and money and gets a few more KLX's on the track.
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gtmpaul, how could you doubt me? Photoshop indeed. The truth is that those Maryborough dirt trackers were all Gods on a dirtbike!!
Here's some more from that long gone practice day. Not sure how fast he is going, but that is the Action Park sweeper. You come into that at about 80km/hr and the top guys would be up around 130 by the end of it.
(http://www.ozvmx.com/images/forum/klx-a.jpg)
(http://www.ozvmx.com/images/forum/klx-b.jpg)
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Heres one up for grabs...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Kawasaki-1981-motercyle_W0QQitemZ280142851645QQihZ018QQcategoryZ102676QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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:) Thanks! Some really good advice in that lot Derail..I'll be following up on more than a few of those items myself. Not particularly after more performance but having reliable oil feed is essential.
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Hi all,
after reading about the mods on the cam for better oil flow, would it be worth doing on a std engine.
I've just put the new piston and rings in, I've got a good std cam and head, while the head is still off should I mod the cam and fit an ally plug on the tacho drive.
Paul
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ive got a real nice brochure of an 83 model KLX. i will put a photo of it one here in a few days. i really like the look of them too. pitty they didnt have a more powerfull motor though
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Hi Paul, in regards to doing the cam mod on a standard engine, I would/have. It simply directs more oil in and around the rockers and cam lobes.
The worst thing to do is remove the tacho drive gear and leave that area blank as oil like most things in life takes the least path of resistance and wollows around the vacated cavity doing nothng for you overhead valve gear.
regards
Darrell
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here is the KLX 250-C1 (83)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1192012/PA110125.JPG)
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ah , that picture brings back some great memories , had one of those back in the early 80's , great bike - used it every day on the road & trailrides/MX every weekend . must get the KLX's I have stashed away out & get them going
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[qu
must get the KLX's I have stashed away out & get them going
[/quote] :o
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Hi all,
That scan of the KLX 250 C1 is intresting, have you got any other pics of that model?
the bike is using the last of the air cooled KL engines, I believe these have a balancer shaft, that why the clutch cable enters the motor from the top right hand side.
Were they sold in Aus? as they stopped in the UK in 81
Paul
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I'm chasing the website which has the article about the two modified KLX's from white bros. and powroll in the 1980 cycle magazine.I had it in my old computer but cant get it out .
If Geraldo or Jeff still have the copies I sent them ,could you please e-mail me a copy back??
rOGER
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Hi Roger,
No problem, I will attach the file here.
Thanks
VMX42
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Thanks Jeff ,jobs done.
currently putting an '81 KL motor into an '81 KDX frame..........why????.........because thats what was in the shed!!!!
Roger
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Here's a good one on eBay....
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/KLX-250B-VMX-ENDURO-ORIGINAL-COND-WITH-SPARE-BIKE_W0QQitemZ140183172589QQihZ004QQcategoryZ102676QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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We are just doing a shock speclist for this model now.
Can anyone confirm or complet the following details please
Total lenght centre - centre 460 mm
Top 12 mm x 22 with
Bottom 10 x 22 with
Stroke 150 mm
Springrate 15 N -mm
Regards Walter
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G'Day Walter, the figures you have are spot on excepting the length from eye centers, I've just physically measured at 465mm. I can't help with spring rates sorry.
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Thanks alot Doc , well noted. Do you think Piggy backs would fit , instead of hoses ?
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mmmm..I'd be going for the piggyback type if I had the choice Walter. I guess it comes down to what the guy with the bike is doing. Resto or ride. The only hassle with piggybacks maybe the exhaust..it runs up high and awfully close the where the reservoir unit would be located. Maybe an issue with heat (I doubt) or it simply may interfere with the exhaust ( I also doubt)..either way if an issue arose it would be an easy fix.
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im sure the article in VMX says 440mm eye to eye?
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might be a typo Leith..I have 4 shocks here and they all measure the same...looooong! :o 465mm long give or take a poofteenth :)
late edit..sorry Walter I just measured twice and you are right! **460 IS correct**. I must have been a little hasty in my measurement b4. They are long when normal old RM shocks run out at around 385mm.
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OK thanks , 460 and Piggy backs it is . Thanks Doc
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somewhere in my paperwork I have the specs on KLX shocks from Ohlins - apparently Bengt Aberg (who now works @ ohlins) raced one back then so he looked back & my shocks were built to those specs , will have a ferret around & see if I can find , scan & post it up
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HI Walter,
The shocks are definitely 460mm [18 inches] long.
You did a set of Wilburs for my KLX through Sean at SOS and they are a perfect fit. He should have the specs on file. They use a long top cap [if that is the right word] that is 85mm long [from the bolt centre to the start of the threaded steel body].
Because of the additional gusseting around the top shock mount on the KLX [compared to the KX] the top cap has to be chamfered to allow the body to clear the gussets.
The Piggybacks would probably fit, but they would be tight against the exhaust.
If you need any more info or if you need me to photograph the shocks shoot me an email at: [email protected]
Thanks
VMX42
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Thanks Jeff , yes if you can send a pic with the shocks fitted near the exhaust that would be great .
regards Walter
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shocks could be a problem with side cover ..... my shocks measure 465 mm eye to eye ::)
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Thanks for that pic , would you have one also from behind . To show the exhaust inline.
Thanks Walter
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Walter here are some images of the Wilburs shocks [sorry about the quality but I have just moved back into the garage after an extension and getting to the bikes is a bit hard at present - bloody mess!!!!].
The piggyback shocks would foul the genuine KLX side covers [that is why I run KX125 A4 covers - they look better too].
Sorry I can't help with the exhaust photo as I have a custom stainless pipe on the bike.
If you need more info I could take the shocks off on the weekend and show you much more detail of the frame/shock clearance and the need for the chamfer on the shock body.
Just let me know what you need.
VMX42
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/vmx42/KLX_resto_3.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/vmx42/Wilburs_1.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/vmx42/Wilburs_2.jpg)
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walter
Rear shot with side cover on .
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Thanks alot to everyone , much appreciated . Remind me to return the favor one day. !!!!!!
Regards Walter
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Hi Walter,
No problem. That is what this site is all about.
VMX42
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I had a bit of a problem getting to the KLX also as somehow it's found it's way to the back of the bat cave but here is the stock cover and a stock shock. Might help..might not but it's a pic ;)
(http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/2488/klxqx2.th.jpg)_ (http://img530.imageshack.us/my.php?image=klxqx2.jpg)(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7466/klx1vr5.th.jpg) (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=klx1vr5.jpg)_(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6366/klx2gi5.th.jpg) (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=klx2gi5.jpg)
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It hasn't translated all that well, but here's a scan from an ADB test (they loved it!). I just think it's a great shot. And the more I read this thread the more I think I should buy one of these things...
(http://www.ozvmx.com/images/forum/klx99.jpg)
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(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/vmx42/KLX_resto_3.jpg)
I'm from Germany and very interesting about some information about this bike, above!
Can anybody tell me what kind of exhaust and exhaust manifold that is?
Where can I buy it or is it selfmade???
Thanks for answering!
Bye
Muecke
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Hi Muecke,
That's my stillborne KLX resto in the photo [stillborne because it seems to be taking forever to finish].
I made the pipe from 1.5 inch stainless steel mandrel bent sections. The muffler was made by Geoff Morris Concepts in Victoria.
If you need any more info just let me know. I can take some more photos [without the side plates] if that would help you.
thanks
VMX42
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Hi Muecke,
That's my stillborne KLX resto in the photo [stillborne because it seems to be taking forever to finish].
I made the pipe from 1.5 inch stainless steel mandrel bent sections. The muffler was made by Geoff Morris Concepts in Victoria.
If you need any more info just let me know. I can take some more photos [without the side plates] if that would help you.
thanks
VMX42
Hi,
thanks for answering!
That's sad, because I can't buy it! Or is there a chance to get this muffler?
Can you take some more detailed photos??
Many thanks!
I hope I can show you our KLX near future in top condition after restoraution. :)
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Check your messages Muecke , as i have pm'd you about side covers.
Cheers, Brad
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Hi guys
I'm a first timer so be gentle.
Just wondering who runs what gearing on their KLXs. I am running standard (I think) but it seems a bit low.
Also has anyone put a different than standard carby on? Thanks.
Nev.
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Hi Nev, yet to ride my KLX but I believe standard gearing is 46t rear and 14T front. The KLX really could have done with a 6 speed gearbox as they run out of puff pretty quick. The optional 15T front might be worth a try. 44 and 47 were the options for the rear. A 40T from a KL250 may also fit giving another option but it's a trade off. The carb I have no idea, I really don't know much about them either :-\
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Hi Muecke
would I be right in assuming you have two of the Whittoeft bikes
http://www.history-routes.de/hr_legenden/witthoeft.htm
http://kz400.com/400/Binder1.pdf
I'm glad to see they are in good hands
Paul
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Yes, you are right! We had 3 of Witthöft Kawas, but the biggest with 750ccm we gave back to him!
My dad and Rolf are good friends! Since 2006/07 I'm very interessting in these old bikes! :)
I have the original issue of the article. The man at the gas station is my dad (page 3)!
On page 3, there are the two Witthoeft bikes we still have. The left one is now mine and the right one is still the bike of my dad.
Here you can find some more photos: http://88.198.89.250/ex305_07.php (http://88.198.89.250/ex305_07.php)
More photos will be follow in a few weeks!
Here is a photo of the GS 751 at Witthoeft's store:
http://www.kawasaki-witthoeft.de/ueber-uns.0.html
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Hi Muecke,
To the best of my knowledge the sidecovers are still available from Kawasaki. Or you can use A4/5 covers from Nightmare Racing [if you want number plates].
On another post you said you were looking for a swingarm buffer for the KLX. These are also still listed as available from Kawasaki. Robs Replica Reproduction Rubber in Australia [www.4RoBs.com.au] have a replica swingarm buffer [chain slider] made from quality urethane, not the hard brittle plastic of the original. He can do them in various colours and they are an exact copy of the original.
Good luck
VMX42
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Kawasaki-KLX-250-2-Bikes_W0QQitemZ130194134709QQihZ003QQcategoryZ35231QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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To the best of my knowledge the sidecovers are still available from Kawasaki.
Thanks for your answers! I think they are very exspansive so I 'm looking for some used parts in good conditions!
I wrote a email for the chain slider to the Australian address. Thanks.
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Hi Muecke,
From what I can see the side covers list for approx $80.00US each.
VMX42
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Hi Muecke,
Just thought you might be interested that your mate Herr Witthoeft is being featured in a profile in the next issue of VMX Magazine.
Just thought you might like to know.
Thanks
VMX42
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thanks very much! so I have to buy it! :)
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ive got that KLX virus too it must be catchy,i won the klx b model located in bathurst on fleece bay the other night and will pick it up on my way home from picking up my rms125 from my sisters place in blacktown,anyway has some one got some pics of the ign switch,speedo, speedo bracket and tail light so i can try to find the bits on evilpay or peoples sheds etc
TT5 Matt
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there is an article in VMX magazine on the KLX and im pretty sure it shows the speedo and ign switch there
in issue 16
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VMX-Vintage-MX-Dirt-Bike-AHRMA-Magazine-Issue-16_W0QQitemZ190132424074QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
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Bike bandit still list the OEM taillight for the KLX/KDX as well as the headlight asembly too
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Figure I might put this in here for those that don't go to the competition pages
A KXLX
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/Tento850/DSCF5767.jpg)
Noel
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very nicley done , but seems a lot of trouble to go to to end up with a bike that wouldn't handle as well as a standard KLX , maybe just putting that front end straight on to the KLX might have been a better option , that said would be happy to have the KXLX in my shed ;D
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Hi,
does anybody know where I can get the rubber between the motor and the carburetor for KLX 250 1981?
Sorry but I do not know the correct English word.
thanks a lot.
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Hi,
does anybody know where I can get the rubber between the motor and the carburetor for KLX 250 1981?
Sorry but I do not know the correct English word.
thanks a lot.
Bike bandit in the US still list the "intake manifold" for less than $20US
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/kawasaki-motorcycle-klx250-klx250a2-us-1980/o/m3721
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Sorry, i'm searching for the rubber between motorhead and carburetor .
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mikuni still make aftermarket manifolds , available in28mm to 44mm , we sell them here in NZ for $40 to $50 NZD retail , what size are you after ??
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The inlet manifolds do come up on ebay every now and again. I picked one up for mine (N.O.S.) for around £25.
The Kawasaki part number is 16065-1024
Standard Mikuni ones may fit, but I have not explored this avenue yet.
Whilst on the subject of KLX's....... where is Derail these days. Not heard from him for a while.
Mine is now running the best it ever has since I bought it in 83. Done the 262cc conversion, and put it's first new cam chain in. (It's only done 7200 miles from new)
Should be even better when I get the time to put the Megacycle cam in.
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do you have links to the ebay auctions?
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Hi Muecke, you may have found one by now but as Geraldo suggests, you can buy one that will fit from Mikuni. There not exactly the same because many motorcycle manufacturers make their parts slightly different sizes so you cannot go straight to a third party and buy the replacement part. About 5 minutes with a round file elongating the mounting holes fixes that however.
If I have done it right, you should be able to read the table below The bolt hole for the klx rubber flange is 6 mm and from the centre of one hole to the next is 67mm. I use a 36mm carb so run an I-VM34-200-1
The critical dimension is the carb spigot (outside diameter) of the carb that goes intothe rubber flange
Hi Grouty, I have been off line for a while - trying to find something to nake a vintage road race bike out of. Good to hear your 262 is going well, I will send you some photos of mine next week
Cheers, Derail
RUBBER MOUNTING FLANGES
Part Number 8.5 MMBolt Carb Bore Carb Spigot Flange Throat Typical Carb Size
Hole Size Diameter Depth
I-VM28-200-1 60 30 35 28 26-28
VM30/288 57 30 37 23 26-28
VM32/205 75 34 40 32 30-34
I-VM34-200-1 60 36 40 25 30-34
I-VM36-200-1 70 40 43 25 36-40
I-VM38-200-1 75 40 43 28 36-40
I-VM40-200-1 75 46 52 32 40-44
I-VM44-200-1 84 46 52 26 40-44
KHS-004 70-75 40 43 28 36-40
HS42/018-42 70-75 42 45 25 42
HS42/018-45 70-75 45 48 25 45
HS42/018-48 70-78 48 51 25 48
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Grouty and JC, Hopefully this time I have attached a picture of the KLX260 from its best angle- I think
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and its bigger brother
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Hi,
nice KLX! :)
Can you tell me which swingarm, sideplates and "exhaust manifold" are used on the KLX?
Do you have some more detailed photos??
:)
Thanks
Muecke
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Thanks Derail.
Twin exhausts on the 260? Tell/show me more!!
Looks like new frame colour too. Are they silver-grey frames now? (not too clear in the pics)
How does the 260 fair in competition?
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Hey Derail
What sort of forks on the 300? They look like XR Honda.
NRD
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does anyone know where you can get Rods/ rod kits for the KLX? im told they are NLA and i know some one who needs one but cant find one anywhere.
does a KLT rod fit?
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Hi JC, I havn't had the 260 on a track yet, but will take it to CD6 and try it out, The twin pipes are built from a CRF250, its cheaper than easier than you would think, Just have to bend the header pipe a little, adjust the mufflers a bit and make a splitter pipe. Yes the frame colour has changed so both bikes are similar.
Muecke, the swing arm is std KLX 250 the side plates are 1978 KX250 and the exhaust manifold for the 260 is as above, the other bike has a 1-1/2" hand made system on it
NRD, you were close with the forks, they are off a Honda CR
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Hi,
can you give me some detailed photos of the KLX 250 exhaust manifold?
Thanks.
Bye
Muecke
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Hi Derail
Did you use the KLX steering stem for the CR forks? I take it you used the triples off the CR as well. I thought the steering stems would be different diameters from the CR to the KLX.
Cheers
NRD
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NRD, the tripple crown is cr, I pressed out the steering stem and had one made to suit the KLX bearings and headstock
The other KLX has RM250 forks and I had to do the same thing with it.
Muecke, I"ll send you some details around the exhaust, it could take a few days however as work committments are keeping me away from home and out of the shed
Cheers, Derail
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Hi Derail,
that would be fine. :)
Bye
Muecke
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Probably another dumb question but.... the internal diameter on the intake side of the original carb on my klx is 36mm. Does that mean it is a 36mm carb as I thought the standard klx carb was 32mm.
Cheers.
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Hmmm 36mm :o
Are you running the weird carb with a twin cable setup or is it a single cable jobbie with it coming out of the top of the carb ?
I will need to up mine to 34mm soon, trouble is I cannot find a VM34SS with the twin cable set up. Been looking at buying a standard VM34 and using a single cable.
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I have 2 KLX's and both have the same carb, 36mm with the cable on the side. One had the 2 cable set up on the throttle but only 1 cable connected. I now have a 36mm Lectron on the 1 going bike and it fit straight on both the airbox side and motor intake. I'm hoping it will run ok for CD6 as I have only tried it out on the street. I also drilled some 1/2" holes in the airbox to get a bit more air in there. Fingers crossed. Cheers.
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Derail,
Were the two delightful silver-framed KLXs (250 & 300) at CD6 yours?
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Anyone see the pretty, black KLX powered RM125 at CD6?
Walked past, realised that it wasn't a stock KLX, but took two of us a couple of minutes to work out what it was.
A very nice bike, even if I don't fully understand why...
Same bloke has similarly nice twin-shock CRs with XL250 and XR200 engines in them.
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Hi JC, yes those were my KLX's, I was only there for the day and spent almost every minute riding and walking around in a daze amazed by the number and quality of bikes that were there. It was the first time I rode the 250 on a MX track and was happy with it. For some strange reason it felt lighter(its not) and more nimble. The only real difference is RM forks on the 250, CR forks on the 300 and about 60cc in displacement.
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Hello guys,
I stumbled upon this forum and have read everyone’s post with interest can someone tell me the height of the stock handle bars for a KLX 250 B as my bike has late model bars which are to low in the sales brochures the stock bars look around 5 inches high can anyone conform this and where I may find some bars to suit.
Thanks Shep
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Hi Ollie,
I still have the original bars on my B1. I will measure them when I get home later.
The oe bars are like hens teeth now. The closest I found is a classic bend MX high bar from a seller on ebay. Luckily these were black. Not used them on the KLX yet as they found their way onto the CCM ! ! That'll teach me to bin it !
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The KLX thread lives on ....
I have aquired a couple of KL250 motors to rebuild and "play" with. They are both the "black" motor. I guess one is A3 and the other is the A4. The later one has the roller bearing cam and a balancer shaft.
Anyone have any idea which would be the better one to tweek ? If I use the balancer shaft motor, will that cause any problems ?
Derail probably knows the answer here.... maybe.
Any thoughts guy's ?
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Hi Guys
Came across this thread after looking at all the Suzuki/Montesa stuff. I have a KLX 250 that I borrowed to ride in the 'States in 2003. I ended up buying it the following year. I'm in the process of bringing it home now.
This one's engine and frame number: KLX 250 00001
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc198/farmer58za/?action=view¤t=127-2715_IMG.jpg
A bit slow but a brilliant bike nontheless.
It will get the full resto treatment but most probably not 100% to standard.
The Aussie bikes on this thread look great.
Regards
David in Johannesburg
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That looks interesting David. If both numbers are "1", then I reckon it's worth restoring. Could be the first one.
On another note, maybe there are some electrical guru's out there .......
Looking through my spares motors it seems that the KL250 A4 & A5 have a slightly different flywheel and they also have an additional lighting coil. Albeit a smaller one than the first. If I use the stator with the 3 coils and flywheel on the KLX, will it make the lights any better (I doubt it) ? Does anyone know what the extra coil was for. I am also guessing that the two different types of flywheel and stators are not interchangable with each other.
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Can I use this piston in my KLX 250
4227M07200 $159.28 72.00mm 2.0mm
Compression Ratio - Actual:
12:1
Displacement:
1075cc
Stroke:
65.93mm
Notes:
Cylinder boring required
Derail where are you??
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Not heard from Derail in a while. I did send him an email a few months back, but no reply. I hope he's ok and still racing those KLX's.
I guess that part number is a Wiseco piston.
I have no love of that make, but I do use the MTC version. These are from the early KZ1000. Make sure you use the 17mm pin version. A 72mm bore is ok with a standard liner. Mine has run for a few years like this without any problems. You will get 262cc.That was until the big end went after 8000 miles from new.
Be careful of the 12:1 compression though. My MTC piston was rated at 10.5:1 in the KZ1000. It is a bit more in the KLX !!. The valves clear the piston with the standard cam. The same goes with the megacycle cam, but only just.
One of the reasons I don't like the Wiseco is that it comes with wire clips to retain the pin. The MTC comes with Teflon buttons. Sooo much better. If you have ever seen what an errant clip can do to a motor if it breaks loose..... !
If I get a chance I will find the ebay ad for MTC in Florida and post it up. Delivery from Joe Hooper (the dealer) is excellent. Price is good too. MTC pistons are also silicon free. Yes, it means warming it up properly before thrashing it, but well worth it.
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Hi Paulsky and Grouty, yes I am still around although not as active with the KLX as I once was- knee reconstructions will do that to you.
I regards to your piston question, Grouty pretty well has it covered. I used the 10.5 version of the Wiesco piston you are asking about. Your piston is 12:1. So it will fit but you will probably need to machine the valve pockets in the piston to get clearance for the valves and you may need to run avgas. My 340cc KLX runs a 80mm version of that piston and I needed to machine the valve recesses in the piston to get clearance although I am running a megacycle cam. Compression ratio on that is around 13.4:1 from memory. Its a great thing but as expensive and time consuming to run as a modern 4 stroke MX bike. The upside is it flogs big bore two strokes and that as the add says is priceless
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Thanks very much for that grouty and Derail, I'm really excited about my KLX project, I've got a set of 43 KX forks and triple clamps, 18 inch Fox air shocks, a 79 KX 80 steel tank and a set of 78 KX 125 plastics from nightmare racing, just need to get the motor done, I'm battling with megacycles though (they don't work on email everything must be faxed ??? wtf) where else could I get one of their cams, I've faxed them 3 times and had no reply, I'm gonna google MTC pistons and see what I can find, thanks again guys
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The MTC pistons come from Joe Hooper at "Pitstop Performance" in Florida.
You will find the link to his ebay ad http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTC-Kawasaki-Z1-KZ900-KZ1000-Big-Bore-Piston-Kit-1075cc-/380033558871?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item587bc3e957. This is for the 72mm 10.5:1 pistons. Just call or email him and he will sell you a single piston. Excellent service too.
For Megacycle, you will have to use the telephone. You cannot beat talking to a real human being these days. You will need to speak to Barbera. She is the CEO, and knows just about all there is regarding Cams. Listen to what she recommends and heed her words wisely.
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For Megacycle, you will have to use the telephone. You cannot beat talking to a real human being these days. You will need to speak to Barbera. She is the CEO, and knows just about all there is regarding Cams. Listen to what she recommends and heed her words wisely.
I've actually met Barbara and she's not a lady to take lightly. Not many people know camshaft science as much as this lady. Dick Mann told me that she's the smartest cam person he's ever met. Wise words from a wise man about a wise woman ;).
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How ya doin Mark :)
I take it that you are back up and running.
Barbera even told me which oil to use. If I wasn't so old, senile and forgetful I would be able to remember which one it was. I have a sneaky feeling we cannot get it in the UK. So maybe that's why it didn't register. I do remember it was a diesel oil though. Helpful eh !
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Thanks very much for all the help guys
here is what my idea is although with 78 KX plastics and fox air shocks, I prefer the number boards under your legs
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/Klx420.jpg)
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My project is nearing completion, I need to know what gearing to run (what is stock) and also the jetting
(MTC piston, megacycle cam. 38 mm exhaust)
derail, grouty ???
Thanks
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I'm done
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/b8bb0e90.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/0b3ba295.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/7f8377be.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/bea18ef1.jpg)
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Paulsky, that looks unreal. Best KLX I've seen.
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Hey Paulsky,
Looks great.
Did you move the top shock mounts back?
VMX42
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That looks great :)
What are the side panels and tank off?
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Really niiiiice!
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Hey Paulsky,
Looks great.
Did you move the top shock mounts back?
VMX42
yes I did to get a little more ride height to match the forks
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That looks great :)
What are the side panels and tank off?
The side panels are from a 78 KX 250, the tank is a 79 KX 80, the front and rear mudguard are off an 88 KX 250, the number board off a 79 KX, the plastics are all from nighmare except the tank from eBay the I resprayed
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Congratulations, very good work, very nice, but personally I would have mounted the fenders of the 78 KX250 A4
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The KLX is one of my all time favorite bikes. That one looks fantastic. I would love to buy one one day any do similar to yours. Keep up the good work.
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Nice !! I prefer the KLX side covers
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Stunning job. It looks different, thats what makes it unique.
What engine spec did you end up with. Did you use the original carb ? They were over carb'ed anyway.
I really hope it goes as well as it looks. I have a friend with a KLX that has had the rear shocks moved to the same place as yours. Goes well and handles too.
When are we going to get some competition shots, or even better some youtube footage ?
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Stock carb, MTC piston and Megacycle cam, I battling to get the jetting right though, but no fear I'm driving 1200km on Friday to a race in Jhb this weekend (and then 1200km back on sunday) nothing like a good old road trip
I'll post some race pics on Monday
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Paulsky, the KLX looks brilliant. That's what Kawasaki should have built and they would have sold them by the truck load. The bike looks good from the back too and that's important because a number of two stroke riders will only see that side of it on the track. I have been thinking about your jetting problem and remembered I too had trouble in this area. Did you open up the air box to let lots more air in. That was my problem. Once the engine can breathe the air box becomes the restriction and they run rich up top not lean. I had to open the top and drill holes in the side ( pity to do that to a good air box I know). The safe way to test this before you jump into hacking your air box apart is go for a run along a sealed road with no air box and filter and see what happens. The other trick I did when I got close was to run some Av gas and look at the spark plug colour. Av gas burns brilliantly and you can see the changes to combustion between one jet and another all over the various locations on the spark plug. The lead replacement pump fuel all seems to burn pretty black on the plug and you need to move a few jets to get get a change. I know you need to adjust again for pump fuel if you go back to it ( or just run a heap of octane booster) but you will be close
Regards, Derail
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Thanks Derail, I did drill the airbox, it turns out my bike had the wrong needle in it (who would change a needle?) anyway I got the jetting close, still missing and farting, and won my second heat after a whole lot of work on it, it handles like an absolute works bike, we really had a great day, here is the link to out local forum
http://www.e-dirt.co.za/site/forum_posts.asp?TID=46561&PID=759040&title=syringa-vmx-14-july-2012#759040
http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=102716.0;topicseen
And a couple of my pics of my first time out race winner!
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/sm_PICT4621.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/IMG_3861-1.jpg)
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Hey Paulsky,
Good to hear you like the final product...
Do you think you can post a couple of details pics of the altered rear shock mounts. I am looking at the same mods and I would love to see what you have done.
Thanks
VMX42
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Congratulations your bike really looks the goods 8) How do you get any sort of reasonable horse power out of one though ???
I thought their strengh was in their handling in std trim ??? the ones i have ridden have all been painfully slow :-[ but the handling was great. I used to race with a bloke who raced one , he was a good rider and carried a lot of corner speed but on the straights the thing was like a postie bike. The bloke in question was a very good rider and would have been fast on a postie bike, but a wobbler on a klx would be a wobblers wobbler ;D
All that aside Paulskys bike looks trick , best KLX i have ever seen im just curious as to how quick it is :)
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Was at the racing Saturday.
That KLX is no fire breather but it is putting everything to the ground. Looks and sounds grreat!. Paulsky told me that on the long uphill at the back of the circuit, the lack of big power is very noticable. Credit to his riding skills - there was lots of competition.
Regards
David
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Nice looking bike. Just acquired one myself recently. Also bought an 82 model new when they were all the rage.
I like your muffler but haven't been able to locate one. They aren't shown on the FMF website either. Any ideas?
Thanks
Dave
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Congratulations ...... a win first time out with a new bike ;D
I guess you must be a fairly handy rider anyway.
Did you use the stock carb ?
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Yes the bike is pretty slow, also I battled with the jetting all day, Grouty you asked if the carb is stock, yes it is, is there something you know, should I change the carb, do you have any suggestions, maybe a 36mm FCR?
The handling is actually quite incredible, there was a downhill off camber section that I could hang on the cable and the front tracked exactly where it was pointed and the back quietly just followed, handles as well as any new bike.
I still neede to wash the bike then I'll take pics of the shock mounting changes and post them, the silencer is a stickerised unit that I made myself, bit of badge engineering, I found one at the wreckers and then cut it shorter and bead blasted it to get the finish I wanted, looks like titanium
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I rode one recently for the first time (stock) and ill vouch for the handling.. fantastic.. no let off on the throttle, a bit of giant killer with the corner speed.
I wonder what one would be like with a worked xr 200 motor, to keep the light feel, as I did do a project job with a xl 500 motor a few years ago, but didnt really like it, the standard bike is a better unit..
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I'm presently on a P/0 needle jet [needle in leanest clip] 130 main and down one size on the pilot too to 25
The only relevant engine change I presently have is the bigger bore exhaust. Allens Performance made the needle jet. That's two sizes down from the standard P2!
Although everyone says the airbox is restrictive the airbox intake is several times bigger than the Suzuki SP370 and DR400 examples, though there is less room round the filter. On these particular oval bore carbs I have found the same on the Suzys and the KLX. The more you derestrict the exhausts [and on the Suzy the inlet] the leaner you need to set the carb. The SP370 uses the same 32mm size/type carb, albeit with a few changes. If you go to a bigger carb it's probably going to bog even worse. By the way the SP370 engine uses a much smaller main jet than the KLX.
I'm a wobbler and on a enduro course I'm faster on the KLX than I am on my dream handling Mann TT, there's not enough power to get me into trouble. On a scramble course I'm faster on the Mann.
Lastly I've fiddled with the float height on both my klx carbs. They seem to come overly rich. On one there was no sign the carb float tab had ever been anything other than in line with the rest of the brass, which was way rich and possibly why the doner bike had little use.
Hope this helps, your bike makes my ones look like they came out of a skip!
I'm not surprised the xl500 engine overstressed the frame. I had thought perhaps the 250 version was a better bet.
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I see I've given the kiss of death again...
Just picked a metal KLX tank from ex national champ Andy Roberton. He and Steve Plain built a KLX for the welsh 2 days. He said it was as flat as a fart so they sent off to White Bros for a kit. The kit comprised of a cam, a 34mm? Dellorto, a 280 cc piston, and an exhaust with a Supertrapp. He said it revved to the moon after all that. Steve won the 4stroke class on it.
The KLX being a stretched 200 I don't suppose it lasted that long though...
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I thought I would keep this in here as it seems to be the current topic.
Being lazy (I've had 18 months to do this) the new big bore front pipe is done this week, and I have a few days off next week. As prep I thought I would clean up the carb. One job that needs doing is the choke button. When pulled it just comes off as the wire clip has long since gone west.
Where can I get a new choke kit with plunger complete ? Is it the same as anything else fitted to another Mikuni ??
Bits for these carbs seem to be thin on the ground. I will try Cradley Kawasaki tomorrow, but I don't hold out too much hope.
As soon as I have the bike back I will post a picture of the new pipe complete with Husky 430 silencer. I hope it will be quiet enough.
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I think the internals may be identical to the sp370 dr400. The problem is that the suzy carb has a fulcrum whereas the kawa carb has a pull knob. One could convert one to the other but it wouldn't be original
If it's a part deep in the bowls of the choke assembly that you need I have several spare suzy mikunis I could raid
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Had a bit of luck with Cradley Kawasaki. The complete choke assembly was still available as NOS, along with a few other bits for the carb rebuild.
I will post a picture of the new exhaust pipe with Husky 430WR silencer later. It's now just a case of time to get it back up and running.
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Getting there .......
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled-2.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled.jpg)
The silencer is from an 81 Husky 430WR
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled-3.jpg)
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Yeh they told me the main jet I wanted was not available, and then sent me it coded unavailable! [132.5]
I've had to jet right down to get the bike running right, a leaner idle, two sizes down on the needle jet [p-0] and needle on leanest clip. It was using oil, I re ringed it and the lack of oil richened the mixture. It's currently running the standard cam so the only non standard part is the optional bigger bore exhaust. It runs cleanly and crisply through the carb settings but there's a lukewarm hiccup when transitioning from idle. I have to quickly turn the choke off as I open the throttle so I'm pretty sure it would take a leaner cutaway. Your bike looks nice. What rear shocks are you running and did you get a new seat cover?
I've been told that the metal tank UK model used a shorter seat but on measuring them they proved identical.
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The rear shocks are the standard ones it came with when new. I try to look after them as much as is possible. They still work as they did when I bought it in 82.
Yes, new seat cover from MXM. They seem to have a bit of trouble with the wording "short seat cover" but we got there in the end. Seeing as I was the one that gave them the original pattern in the first place !
The UK/steel tank versions do have a shorter seat. The seat foam is the same as the long seat version and are available new. All you have to do is chop about an inch or so off the front.
I will need to get my head around the jetting as soon as it's up and running again. I will start with the standard jetting, and go from there.
Not sure how much difference my Megacycle cam will make to the settings you are running. My compression is up around 10.5:1, or maybe a tad more. It certainly won't run on 95 Ron fuel ! Even with the standard cam and exhaust I was running a mix of super unleaded and 114 octane race fuel with the MTC piston.
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I measured the seat bases and they were the same but I didn't check the top of the seat. I'll do that. Both my seat covers are knackered so that's on the list.
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Hi VMX42, below is a pic of the new shock mounting you asked for
I put a Mikuni TM 36-68 carb on the bike and it is a whole lot better, revs quick and is a little faster as well, also jets are available for it
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/VMX/IMG_0500.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/VMX/IMG_0499.jpg)
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/VMX/IMG_0503.jpg)
Cheers for now
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Great Job, Paulsky,
big drive up to Syringa for the debut!
I have acquired an amazingly original if sun faded klx (even all the electrics work) but the airfilter has fallen apart and they arent jumping out at me on the internet, is anything available or a crossover option??
thanks in advance.
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O.E air filters seem to have gone the way of the dinosaurs .... extinct !
I bought a new genuine one a few years ago from CMSNL in Holland. The filter was perfect, the cage to go with it looked the same, but was too long by about 40mm. Both of these are now listed as no longer available.
I am now in the process of finding/having new ones made. I will also need to get the cages made too. Unless some kind soul has already done this. In which case I am ready to part with some money ;D
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You can buy klx airfilters from unifilter Australia . (nice job) Glenn
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I looked at their website, only saw the kl 250.
Will check again . thanks
Done and ordered
thks again.
BTW -BK performance in Brisbane has quite a few gaskets / levers etc very reasonably priced
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Yes, new seat cover from MXM. They seem to have a bit of trouble with the wording "short seat cover" but we got there in the end. Seeing as I was the one that gave them the original pattern in the first place !
The UK/steel tank versions do have a shorter seat. The seat foam is the same as the long seat version and are available new. All you have to do is chop about an inch or so off the front.
Anyone got photos of a KLX Seat? I've got a KDX400A1 and I'm looking for a new seat foam for it (the old one's softer than my sofa).. Maybe the KLX one can be adapted to fit?
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I looked at their website, only saw the kl 250.
Will check again . thanks
Done and ordered
thks again.
BTW -BK performance in Brisbane has quite a few gaskets / levers etc very reasonably priced
What part number did you order ? Was it just a "pod" filter or a direct replacement for the original one.
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http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/p934.html
its a replacement, see the above link
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Thanks for that. I did find it later after looking properly ! Doh !
Next question ...... is there a UK agent, or do I need to order it from OZ ? I did try a google search, but there was nothing concrete.
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not too sure about that. if you have no joy pm me and we can work something out - Ill post one(or more) to you
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Well, I have ordered 4 filters ! I wonder how long they will take to find their way to the UK ?
I will wait until they arrive before making some new filter cages.
Many thanks SA63 :)
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I've got a couple of airboxes, they do regularly turn up on ebay. The metal cages inside are slightly different depths, which is worth checking.
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I'm going to wait until the new filters turn up before making the new cages. Just in case ..... !
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Excellent service from Unifilter. They arrived today.
Only downside is that they are not long enough by about 30mm, and the hole in the carb end is a little too small. The filters are listed for up to 82 models. Mine is an 81.
If there is another "A" bracket that bolts to the airbox and is shorter, I may be able to use them. According to the parts books for the B1 and B2, all the airboxes/filter attachments are the same for all UK, European and Australian models.
Anybody know of a difference in the filters ??
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G'Day,
I'm a regular reader of this thread, and enjoy it immensely.
I have a 1981 KLX which I will give all the tech info of the mods I have done in the near future.
Right now I am chasing a set of side covers , new or good condition second hand ones. I have looked at DC plastics but they want a fortune to send them to Oz.
any info would be appreciated
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Les at VMXunlimited can probably help
http://www.vmxunlimited.com/categories/Kawasaki/
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Is there a uk supplier of side covers (repro?)
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No, the only aftermarket supplier is DC. I know, as I was the one who supplied them with the patterns ! Bought a pair of covers from ebay US and had them shipped straight to Tom at DC. I should really have found a set here in the UK and inspected them first. The ones I bought were not brilliant ! He-ho.
There must be a DC agent/importer in Oz. Order a pair from them, and they will be shipped in with their next shipment. You may have to wait a while, but at least you will have them. They come with the slots uncut. Cutting them is a pain. It took me ages with a dremel. Just go easy as the plastic is a very low melt point. Dremel on as slow as it will go and just take it easy. Unless you can bodge it, the front headlamp repo does not fit as they cannot replicate the moulding part on the back that attaches the brackets as it is vacuum formed not injection moulded. But I'm sure a bit of bush engineering will work.
Can someone measure the length of their standard air filter please ..... my O.E. one is 90mm long. The Unifilter one is only 60mm !
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I managed to get side covers off ebay but the one is slightly more faded than the other, you've got to look at them at the same time to notice, which is impossible. I wouldn't use them in anger though, too rare, so I've got old mended ones for that. My other bike sports A5 side covers. I also got a headlight complete, after patiently buying all the bits bar the surround........ Don't just look for the headlight under KLX, 3 KDX models used the same part. I've used that trick on various different makes and got stuff cheap as a consequence.
Thing is KLXs may be rare but so are the blokes that want them. There's quite a bit of stuff on ebay for silly prices and no one buying.
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Seem to be having an issue with Unifilter and the fact they don't fit. I have sent several emails in the last few days with no reply. The last three have been bounced back by their server. This was not an issue when I wanted to order them, and then confirm payment. Maybe they are having a problem with their emails, I don't know. But it does not look good from where I am sitting.
My O.E. filter is 132mm dia by 90mm long.
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Bump
Yes, new seat cover from MXM. They seem to have a bit of trouble with the wording "short seat cover" but we got there in the end. Seeing as I was the one that gave them the original pattern in the first place !
The UK/steel tank versions do have a shorter seat. The seat foam is the same as the long seat version and are available new. All you have to do is chop about an inch or so off the front.
Anyone got photos of a KLX Seat? I've got a KDX400A1 and I'm looking for a new seat foam for it (the old one's softer than my sofa).. Maybe the KLX one can be adapted to fit?
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Bump
Yes, new seat cover from MXM. They seem to have a bit of trouble with the wording "short seat cover" but we got there in the end. Seeing as I was the one that gave them the original pattern in the first place !
The UK/steel tank versions do have a shorter seat. The seat foam is the same as the long seat version and are available new. All you have to do is chop about an inch or so off the front.
Anyone got photos of a KLX Seat? I've got a KDX400A1 and I'm looking for a new seat foam for it (the old one's softer than my sofa).. Maybe the KLX one can be adapted to fit?
The KDX seat is much thicker than a KLX seat.
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The KDX seat is much thicker than a KLX seat.
Thanks for that.
Anyone know of a Kawasaki seat that is similar to the KDX400? Or should I just get an upholsterer to start from scratch?
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To the best of my knowledge they are the only unique one Kawasaki made. They are very different from the KX and KLX seats.
There was a KDX400 at CD9, perhaps he could help you?
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You could mould one out of concrete Tony....at least it would last.
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You could mould one out of concrete Tony....at least it would last.
But your arse wouldn't...
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You could mould one out of concrete Tony....at least it would last.
But your arse wouldn't...
I think Mr. Crockette, in his own inimitable way, was alluding to my arse perhaps having enough extraneous padding to make a concrete seat work.. ::)
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Correct.
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From memory the KDX seat is thicker, wider and has a much more square section than the KLX. I have just had the 73 CCM seat rebuilt from scratch. My local upholsterer has a passion for bike seats. He hand carved and layered (using muslin) the new foam, hand made a new seat cover, complete with original CCM logo, assembled it to the original base and charged me £50 ! Bargain.....
I have also noticed that there is a difference in the shape of the KLX seat base between the long and short seat versions.
Has anyone managed to measure their air filter yet ....... ? Please.
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Seem to be having an issue with Unifilter and the fact they don't fit. I have sent several emails in the last few days with no reply. The last three have been bounced back by their server. This was not an issue when I wanted to order them, and then confirm payment. Maybe they are having a problem with their emails, I don't know. But it does not look good from where I am sitting.
My O.E. filter is 132mm dia by 90mm long.
grouty,
I just measured mine out of an 81 it measures 130 ish by 80 ish.
Regards Stan.
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Thanks Stan. Bears out my thoughts. Rumaging through stuff tonight, I reckon the original A1 and A2 models probably had the shorter filter. The later B1, B2 and rare C1's had the longer 90mm filter. They are all squashed a bit when fitted. I have sent Unifilter a CAD drawing of my genuine O.E. one. Hopefully they will come back with a positive outcome.
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From memory the KDX seat is thicker, wider and has a much more square section than the KLX. I have just had the 73 CCM seat rebuilt from scratch. My local upholsterer has a passion for bike seats. He hand carved and layered (using muslin) the new foam, hand made a new seat cover, complete with original CCM logo, assembled it to the original base and charged me £50 ! Bargain.....
I have also noticed that there is a difference in the shape of the KLX seat base between the long and short seat versions.
Has anyone managed to measure their air filter yet ....... ? Please.
Thanks Grouty, looks like custom is the way to go..
Now, with the KLX airfilters - do the get clamped in similar to the KDX??
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I don't thing the filter or the fixing is the same as the KLX.
The KLX has a pin that goes through the centre of the filter. Then held in place with a steel cap and an oversize hair clip !
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Has anyone tried a KLF300 Bayou Cylinder and head on a KLX250 bottom end? If so what was the performance results?
Stan.
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I had a look at the cage I have and the unifilter I bought and it seems to be ok fit wise. the filter could certainly be a lot taller{longer?) with the amount of room in the airbox which ties in with later models as you say.
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Does your Unifilter touch and seal ok on the airbox ?
If it does, then that would point to the 'A' bracket inside the box being shorter. If I was to fit the short ones (Unifilter) then I would be able to get my fingers into the gap between airbox and filter !
I had never given the KLF300 top end a second thought. I would imagine the stud spacing would be quite different to the KLX. If I come accross a base gasket I will have a look.
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I had never given the KLF300 top end a second thought. I would imagine the stud spacing would be quite different to the KLX. If I come accross a base gasket I will have a look.
Grouty,
I think the stud spacing may be the same. The main difference would be the 2, 6mm hold down bolts on the cam chain tunnel. The KLF runs an outter bearing on the camshaft siimilar to a C model KLX which would also be a bonus. I think they both share the same stroke and there is plenty of performance cams and pistons available for the KLF's. I would imagine the crankcases would need opening up to take the larger liner. I will see if I can find a top end to measure up.
Regards Stan.
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very intersting the klf option(if possible), i have pulled the topend down on the klx i have. the head and cam are dead.. the cam has lost 3-4 mm on the inlet lobe. Rockers alsodead, must be made from cheese..!!
Bore and piston are good /bigend feels fine. its done 9000k. still started with 1 kick but rattly.
I did buy a klt roller head and cam on ebay yesterday.but would like to see how the klf thing goes.
Will measure up the airfilter
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Well .... I'm off to buy a KLF base gasket to have a look-see :o
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G'Day guys,
I have a 1981 KLX 250,
I have used a KZ 250 ( road bike ) barrel and head on the original bottom end.
The KZ barrel has 249cc stamped on it as opposed to 246cc which is stamped on the original KLX.
The head has a roller cam bearing on the sprocket end.
I have shaved 1mm off the head and machined the inlet port and inlet manifold to get an uninterrupted flow from the carb into the engine.
I had the original cam shaft re-machined by a bloke in Brisbane ( Ivan Tighe ). It now gives peak performance fairly high in the rev range.
I am still running the original carby, although i did race a KLX in the early 80's with a Delorto pumper on it.
The jets I am using are a 135 pilot and 150 main, large i know and it does run a little rich but has none of the usual KLX flat spots, and pulls hard all through the rev range.
I am running 1 1/2 inch exhaust.
I ride the bike in vinduros and ride it around the place a fair bit as it is road resisted.
The handeling is great, I had the rear shocks rebuilt by RAD in Brissy, the forks are standard with ATF oil and about 8 P.S.I. pressure.
I am still in the process of making it look pretty so no photos just yet.
Hope this is of interest. by the way , my air filter is 60mm deep.
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That sounds interesting. I have never noticed that the KZ says 249 ???
Is your KLX an early model (79 or 80 A1 or A2) ? This air filter thing is getting to be a pain. The customer service from Unifilter is weak at best. This should not take so long to sort out. At the very least, an email to acknowledge mine would be good. I do that for all of my customers if I do not have an immediate answer.
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Ok ..... been looking at the KLF option :)
Seems possible with a small amount of machining.
First picture is of the two gaskets (KLF 300 and KLX250) on top of each other.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled-5.jpg)
The second shows the KLF300 gasket on an old KL250 barrel. The only thing that seems not to line up are the two dowels.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled-4.jpg)
And another.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/Untitled-1.jpg)
The last one is of the std KLX/KL base gasket on the 250 barrel.
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/jpg.jpg)
Seems like the only machining required would be to relocate the two base dowels to fit the KLX/KL bottom end. I guess I would have to use the KLF head to make the head gasket situation easier. It would also be interesting to measure the KLX/KL barrel to see if there is enough meat to machine out and fit a KLF liner. I suspect not as Kawasaki would probably gone that route if they could.
I use a 72mm piston in my KLX at present. If the KLF top end is a go'er, then MTC do a 76mm piston. Should bump the compression up to around 10.5:1 or more.
So ....... who's going to be the first to pop up pictures of the next stage ?
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I looked up specs on the klf 250 and 300, and were shown as having different strokes? Hard to believe though
The 300 had the same stoke as the kl/klx and the 250 was shorter
Need someone with a wrecking yard buddy for a measure up!
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Cheapie anyone?
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16VHJHQE9nzEylb3BQbTufyTF!~~60_3.JPG)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kawasaki-250KLX-/150916670483?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item232355a413#ht_500wt_1288
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Funny, I was checking out the KLF three weeks ago
The head studs look to be the same spacing, the strokes the same [a friend was rebuilding a klf for a customer] The klx carb would probably still fit the airbox. The klf head has a decompressor
The options were to get a whole top end or just a piston and liner. Actually the heads seem to share a lot of parts but we'd need to open up the barrel mouth assuming the piston fitted, but it's not Honda so it probably would. I'd guess it would work but a head gasket might have to be made. The klf uses a one piece head gasket, quite different to the KLX set up. I'd say the reason kawasaki never did it is more to do with stretching the 200kz engine just too far for acceptable durability, might be ok as a race motor though.
Luckily reality bit and I decided not to spend yet more money, at least until I've finished the present projects
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Pardon my ignorance, but what is a klf ?
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Pardon my ignorance, but what is a klf ?
Quad (KLF) or trike (KLT) that used the same basic engine as a start point.
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Picking up another KLX250 on the weekend. Intentions are to build up one as a VMX bike for the Viper rounds. No doubt I'll be trying to squeeze some extra out of the stock engine so i don't end up looking like a sweep rider :-[ . The KLF mod looks intersting if it's doable. Any further developements on this?
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It would also be interesting to measure the KLX/KL barrel to see if there is enough meat to machine out and fit a KLF liner. I suspect not as Kawasaki would probably gone that route if they could.
I don't see why not. I big bored my KLX in the day. There was a 290 (292?) option and a 170 (?) option. I went the 290 option and for this one I had to have the cases machined to accept the bigger liner.
One draw back with mine was I reckon the oil passage ended up to close to the bore.
If I had my time again I would move that oil passage further out.
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I have been toying with the idea of moving that oil passage to an external braided hose. I guess with machining the barrel to fit a bigger liner, a tad of extra to open out the oil way would be easy.
My only concern with the barrel would be the wall thickness between the fins. If the casting is does not have enough meat then the boring will break through. I know the liner will cover it up, but this could be the source of a serious oil leak. A friend did a similar thing and overbored a Yamaha TTR250 to 300 ish. There were places where the boring to fit the bigger liner had broken through. it was not spotted until the new liner was pressed in and the engine assembled and back in the bike. Running it for a few miles produced a great deal of oil.
New KLF liners seem to be about £50 on fleabay. Maybe one of the sellers could give us the O.D
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My only concern with the barrel would be the wall thickness between the fins. If the casting is does not have enough meat then the boring will break through.
I can't remember what the bore size of mine was now, only that the piston was from a Kawasaki road bike of some sort. It was all part of a kit you could buy at the time.
I don't remember the liner came anywhere near breaking through.
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Ok, I'm done polishing this turd of motor, I'm going to drop a xl350 engine into it, anyone have any experience of this?
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/VMX/IMG_0503.jpg)
Here is one that has by a guy in France
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/image.jpg)
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What's up with it Paul ?
I guess not enough power. At least with an old XL350 motor you can always go bigger. The new KSI Thumpers are 470 and 500.
I have just got my KLX back on the road this week. With the big exhaust and Megacycle cam, the original jetting is not far out. An annoying bog just off tickover. Open the throttle a little too quick and it will stall. I need to get the time to do some plug chops. Other than that I am happy with the motor.
The fork springs seem a little weak. Still well within spec, but too soft. I will have a look for a couple of old valve springs to stick in there.
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There is a lighter option than a xl 350 Honda, I am currently building a KLX up with a XT 250 2 valve engine, fits in with very little mods, the motor will run a 85mm piston using a yamaha BW 350 barrel and head,the 250 crank is being stroked, should come out around the 450 mark.
With a dose of Methanol she should be a flyer :D
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Had a rummage through my old valve springs. All too big in the diameter department :-\
Has anyone used or had experience of after market ones ? I was looking at "Progressive Suspension" part #11-1136
Are they any good ?
Mine has always been too soft, so now would be a good time to look at it. Maybe Walter does some sprigs that would work ...
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Try www.rdvalvespring.com
I rang them and got a set for a DR400. I knew what the Pro Tec spring rate was, and the length; so although they no longer had a spring kit for the model they were able to send a set that fitted: once I got the Pro Tec valve keepers machined to fit.
Not being fond of knicker elastic I didn't want to use the NOS Pro Tec springs. If R & D have a kit I'd be interested in sharing shipping. I knackered my aftermarket cam using the standard springs it came with.
I used to use ford crossflow aftermarket springs with Pro Tec keepers on my DR but they are not made anymore.
That's another possibility UK car springs. Some makers have charts with specs
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As I rather like the springing on my 390 Husky, I thought maybe the same springs would give similar results in the Kawasaki forks.
The spare set I have in the workshop are good. With the two Husky springs together they are too long. Seems a shame to cut the smaller one down to maybe find it doesn't work :(
I have a spare set of KLX springs too, but I don't want to cut them either.
What to do ........ ??? ???
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Ah, I thought you needed valve springs.
I cut mine down to up the spring rate. That worked, though I put in about 5lbs air pressure too. The mags specified somewhere over 20lbs, that's how bad the standard springs were!
I also got Kamar motosport to send a set of YSS cartridge emulators. They sent the wrong ones and replaced them straightaway. The standard forks aren't as confused as my RM ones but the emulators still noticeably improved their action. I'm not a fan of preloading soft springs; especially not after watching one bike spit it's forks off with predictable damage to the rider, though I suppose a lot of air does exactly the same thing.
As a matter of interest what valve springs did you fit?
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I used the R&D valve springs in the engine. Well pleased with them. The standard jetting seems to work ok with the big pipe and Megacycle cam. But still work to do to get it right.
I fitted the two springs each side from my spare Husky forks. They were tw&ts to get back together and seem a little hard. Would be ok for motocross but not green leaning or Enduro's. I think I will sacrifice one of the shorter Husky springs and cut it down. At least Husky bits are easier to get than KLX stuff.
I will need to up the preload on the rear when the forks are done. It won't help too much, but stiffer springs for the rear don't exist.
Cloggy, have you looked at the ISDT centenary ride in Carlisle next August ?? I am planning on going as we have a team of 3. Should be a good laugh.
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I want to do something for 2013. I had a load of work clashes this year, couldn't do the second Doman Hill enduro or the Hot Trod or any of the rallies or other twinshock enduros. I only did one scramble and Doman
It sounds good but I also want to do the Auroux in 2013.
Do you know the R&D springs keepers etc code numbers were?
Er don't bother with that last question , I've decided to go standard due to cost, unless of course the springs aren't available
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paulsky,what,s up with your motor that you have to lower yourself that you have to put a honda motor in it
2004 i got 2nd place in evo all powers on a 1981 klx 250 in the vic thumper cross
the last 2 round,s they wanted full grid,s so they put us in the 250cc morden class
still have in pride of place the 3rd place plate for overall, for one of the round,s on a grid of 35 for morden class ;D ;D
last dyno run was 37.9 hp yes 37.9 .you can make big hp out of these puppy,s
5 gear box,s later ,to hold the hp ,heap,s o werd stuff ,klr600 valves ,cut 3.5 kg from the motor
no flywheel ,inside rotor,no sleep and no sleep and no sleep ,sw valve springs ,no sleep
no sleep and no beer make,s bumper, beer something beer ,bumper beer sleeeeeeeeeeeep
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All seems to be good on the front fork problem. I used the spare set of springs from my 78 Husky 390WR. The long springs were used as is. The short top spring was cut in half and used with a 30mm spacer.
The pre-load on the rears was taken up (down) a notch. Now if feels more like the Husky suspension. Yet to be used in anger though.
Not seen my replacement air filter from Uni-Filter yet though !
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Corby Kawasaki have about 30 original preoiled klx filters. All rotten apparently so they sell this for KLXs instead; Putoline pre oiled for kdx200 1989/kdx220 stock code 151352. They fit pretty well.
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It's done, 412 cc, megacycle cam and a flatslide carb, gonna run it on Wed, let you guys know how it goes
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/F4AA16B4-D7D0-4EB4-B49A-B91A31D9D06F-803-0000011035441C7C.jpg)
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That sounds good .... 412 ;)
Please let us know how you did it, and how it goes.
I'm not sure I need to go that big for trail riding and maybe the odd enduro, so maybe (unless I get bored) will leave mine at 270.
I actually managed to get out on mine now it's finished. In between the rain :( . Did some plug chops to check the mixture, and all seems good on the standard jetting. I guess that using a larger bore header pipe will make it run leaner (like Cloggy's), but then having the megacycle cam with longer duration and higher lift will even things out.
My prowess with a camera does not seem to have improved though !
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/SANY0878.jpg)
(http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/grouty60/SANY0876.jpg)
Not sure about the yellow side plates though :-\ I guess they will have to do for the ISDT Centenary next August.
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Hey Grouty
That is a very nice looking KLX youv'e got there.
I like the Yellow number plates on the rear , if you reduce the the overall diameter by approx. %30 thay will look super. (Thats what we do on the earlier Huskys.
How good does it go compared to a standard 250 KLX.
Cheers
Rob
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Thanks Rob.
Yes, I agree the side plates could be smaller, but those are the standard available here (UK). They are the same as the ones fiited to my 78 390WR. If you know of someone selling smaller ones I would like to know.
As for performance .... not sure yet. It's smoother and revvier than before. But not quite run in yet. I aim to use it in anger in the next week or so. Maybe then I will decide if it's been worth it. A session on a rolling road would probably help. I am sure both the cam timing (nightmare) and the mixture can be tweeked. The air box is the major issue. As deep water is envisaged, drilling holes in the box is not really on the cards.
Trouble is, after riding the Husky lately, I really want the KLX to be as good. That isn't going to happen !
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Your Welcome , that is a top looking bike and hope it continues to go well for you.
I know what you mean when you mention the 78 390 husky as we have a very good example of the model and its an absolute pleasure to ride.
We generally trim down the oval number plates in the workshop.
If you PM me your email address i will send you a photo of our 78 390 auto with the reduce number plates fitted to the rear guard. Really looks the goods and is a bit more user friendly to the standard version of fixings etc. i have a little trouble from time to time posting images on this site.
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It would also be interesting to measure the KLX/KL barrel to see if there is enough meat to machine out and fit a KLF liner. I suspect not as Kawasaki would probably gone that route if they could.
I don't see why not. I big bored my KLX in the day. There was a 290 (292?) option and a 170 (?) option. I went the 290 option and for this one I had to have the cases machined to accept the bigger liner.
One draw back with mine was I reckon the oil passage ended up to close to the bore.
If I had my time again I would move that oil passage further out.
Back in 1980 i bored my KLX to 300cc using 1/4 of a 1200cc road bike big bore kit. A new sleeve was fitted and the cases bored, it went heaps better but constantly broke gearboxes with the extra grunt.
I got sick of it breaking and moved it on but it was a great bike to ride, even did a few MX meetings on it.
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Back in 1980 i bored my KLX to 300cc using 1/4 of a 1200cc road bike big bore kit
Bingo! That reminds me.......
I've got one last well used Venolia piston and rings that was made for a 1275 big bore kit in my old Z1-R Kawa drag bike. I've sold the other three over the last 20 years to KLX owners. The only downside with this one is that it's a 14:1 methanol piston and it's got a 1c sized chunk missing from the skirt, so it'll need a bit of surgery. I vaguely recall that it gives 320cc or therabouts and that the oil line needs to be run externally. I'll give it to anyone who wants it for the cost of a cold schooner ;).
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Well Paulsky you dont muck around. looking forward to your report.
I have just finished a motor using MTC 262 cc piston + 1 1/2" pipe. klt roller bearing head, ports matched etc. and klx muffler gutted to a straight through 35 mm core to match the header..
standard klt cam in the KZ 200 trim Sounds great, sounds MEAN !!! standard jetting was ok maybe a tad rich..
BUT after a 45mins run in a mate and I (weigh the same) had roll on 2nd gear drags using a rattly old 83' model xr 200 that I can kick start with my my hand...
GUESS which was faster!
The xr flogged the pants off the KLX !!!
Anyway this one is super original, 9600 km, for the missus/ kids just want it to go mildly better.
Somwhat tempted to send the extra cam I have to Waggets so I can at least say I tried it with a 350 thou lift cam... SLAP get real..
Hmmm!
Now, the extra roller I got with this one and the spare xr 200 motor I have, powroll stroker kit.....
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Sean along with the 300 kit i put a 34 Mikuni round slide on it on methanol and took the baffle out of the std pipe and it absolutely hammered. Only problem was the glass gearbox..
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Hi Guy's,
I read these posts with baited breath, these KLX,s look so trick, and lots of build up information too.
Are they really that slow that an XR200 will pass them?
Mark
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Put it this way.
It's a great woods bike. Faster than me anyway!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSWBTeAguTU&playnext=1&list=PLE3A55090EFD319F6&feature=results_main
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Mark, you are right. In stock form they really are that slow :(
But, they handle so well that they can be kept pinned for longer into corners (you need to !).
Mine is now very happy with the 270 conversion and a megacycle cam. Been out trailing it here in the uk for the last few weeks and it is perfect.
Shows up a great many new bikes up the steep wet polished rock we have where I live.
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Perfect balance, loads of soft suspension, heavy flywheels and not much power make it super easy to ride on slimy rock. I did a lot of the Beacons on the kill switch as the throttle kept sticking, that's another thing they were known for and a result of it being a parts bin special, it really needs both throttle cables. The tank rubs the carb.
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Saw this bike go at the [very muddy] Syringa VMX meet a couple of weeks ago. Put's all it's power to the ground. Very impressive - got some good finishes.
Well done Paulsky!
Regards
David
It's done, 412 cc, megacycle cam and a flatslide carb, gonna run it on Wed, let you guys know how it goes
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/F4AA16B4-D7D0-4EB4-B49A-B91A31D9D06F-803-0000011035441C7C.jpg)
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Nice looking bike Grouty
I cut these number plates from a couple of yellow safety signs, bought at the local builders merchant and zip tied them in place.
http://s215.beta.photobucket.com/user/farmer58za/media/127-2715_IMG.jpg.html
Will you be riding in the ISDT Centenary event in August? I have contacted the organisers but not got too much info back yet.
Regards
David
Thanks Rob.
Yes, I agree the side plates could be smaller, but those are the standard available here (UK). They are the same as the ones fiited to my 78 390WR. If you know of someone selling smaller ones I would like to know.
As for performance .... not sure yet. It's smoother and revvier than before. But not quite run in yet. I aim to use it in anger in the next week or so. Maybe then I will decide if it's been worth it. A session on a rolling road would probably help. I am sure both the cam timing (nightmare) and the mixture can be tweeked. The air box is the major issue. As deep water is envisaged, drilling holes in the box is not really on the cards.
Trouble is, after riding the Husky lately, I really want the KLX to be as good. That isn't going to happen !
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Will you be riding in the ISDT Centenary event in August? I have contacted the organisers but not got too much info back yet.
Regards
David
Yes, will (all being well) be riding the ISDT Centenary. I guess there won't be much info out until the new year.
My plan is to take two bikes and give them both a run out. I know it is a non-competitive event, but I am hoping there will be some decent riding and not too much tarmac work.
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I have given the KLX a couple of short run outs in the last few weeks. But had a good ride out yesterday (all day). We have had some severe flooding down here in SW England. The wife also bought me a Gopro for my birthday just before christmas.
If the link to the vids come out, great. If not ......
http://youtu.be/ky6snCBSVUI (http://youtu.be/ky6snCBSVUI)
http://youtu.be/4RQuTQpQlqM (http://youtu.be/4RQuTQpQlqM)
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No they came out great!
Motor sounds healthy with a decent amount of midrange, and it looks just like round here......[welsh marches]
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It's done, 412 cc, megacycle cam and a flatslide carb, gonna run it on Wed, let you guys know how it goes
(http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/Paulsky990/F4AA16B4-D7D0-4EB4-B49A-B91A31D9D06F-803-0000011035441C7C.jpg)
Can anyone tell me where you got this exaust pipe (bending)? Is it thicker than the original?
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A mate of mine can bend up a pipe for a standard KLX using my KLX. He's brilliant at it, does a lot of two stroke pipe/expansion work, that's in the UK
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Paulsky
How is your bike going.
Was the 412 cc a good solution?
Can you please tell us about the engine build?
Thanks Mark
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I am guessing XL350 bored (stroked ??) and a decent cam.
It would be nice to see some close ups of the engine swap. I have a good friend that has taken the XL350 out to 470 and 500cc.
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G'Day you blokes i have posted this text before but have finally finished the bling on the old girl thanks to somme new plastics from Les at VMX Unlimited and some new stickers thanks to a mate with a laser cutter. So i thought i'd put it in again to go with the pic.
I have a 1981 KLX 250,
I have used a KZ 250 ( road bike ) barrel and head on the original bottom end.
The KZ barrel has 249cc stamped on it as opposed to 246cc which is stamped on the original KLX.
The head has a roller cam bearing on the sprocket end.
I have shaved 1mm off the head and machined the inlet port and inlet manifold to get an uninterrupted flow from the carb into the engine.
I had the original cam shaft re-machined by a bloke in Brisbane ( Ivan Tighe ). It now gives peak performance fairly high in the rev range.
I am still running the original carby, although i did race a KLX in the early 80's with a Delorto pumper on it.
The jets I am using are a 135 pilot and 150 main, large i know and it does run a little rich but has none of the usual KLX flat spots, and pulls hard all through the rev range.
I am running 1 1/2 inch exhaust. I have also addes an staintune muffler ( after the photo was taken ) which also improved the power right accross the rev range
I ride the bike in vinduros and ride it around the place a fair bit as it is road resisted.
The handeling is great, I had the rear shocks rebuilt by RAD in Brissy, the forks are standard with ATF oil and about 8 P.S.I. pressure.
The bike is still a little challenged in the power department but does get everything it's got down to the ground, which along with the handleing alows you to get around at a competeitive pace.
The biggest probem with riding the bike is that you get a lot of flys caught in you teeth cause you're smiling al the time. ;D.
cheers Bretto.
ps T.A.R.T. stands for Tight Arse Racing Team. :D
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag119/bretto60/WP_000335_zps1f3be918.jpg)
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Great job Bretto! Good to see the KLX with all the enduro fruit installed. Bring it along to a club day QVMX. Regardless of the power I am sure it won't be the last bike home - especially on the tighter tracks where you can use all the power it puts to the ground. Have fun ;D ;D
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Lovely Bike!
Did you use standard springs or aftermarket valve springs?
I have a roller engine ready to go in, new standard cam and 1mm rebore
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Just standard valve springs Cloggy.
Do you reckon aftermarket springs would make a difference ?
You should consider getting the cam reground , makes a huge difference , are 1mm oversize pistons and rings readily available ?
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I seem to have kick start issues. Cloggy, do you have any kick levers ? I have exhausted my supply of bits to make a good one. In desparation I am thinking of using an arc welder and a hard face rod to re-build the worn parts on the boss and lever. Failing that, I reckon a kick assembly from a KX250 or similar may fit.
I have tried the non-genuine Emgo lever assemblies. Lasted three kicks before it started to bend. Damn Taiwanese shit.
Anyone have knowledge of other kickers that fit the spline ??
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I had an old aftermarket english piston. I got 4 sets of rings of the same make for a Z1000 off ebay and it all went together.. I originally had an altered cam running standard springs from another motor and managed to wear a flat on the cam due to valve bounce. Could have been the springs, may have been past their best. Anyway I sorted out that motor with a hone, new rings and an old standard cam; and in the roller motor I have a rebore and brand new standard cam and springs, swapped cases and some new gearbox bearings
It had a peppier top end with the altered cam. It would really rev but I haven't raced it since, possibly a better trail bike with the standard cam.
On the old cam there is provision for altering the timing from KL to KZ but the roller just has that central bolt and peg fitting. Kawasaki standardised the cam timing.
I had to get another roller cam as the original roller cam had a flat worn into one cam face too; maybe due to no valve clearance. Even the roller cam lubrication is nothing much to write home about
As regards the kick start I think I only have two amongst all the engine stuff. However they aren't the same. One seems to be standard KLX but the other is simpler, I'd expect the KZ200 kicker to work
Here's one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-Z200-KZ200-KICKSTART-LEVER/330850038518?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4d0832f2f6
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I was only looking for a Swing-Arm!
You see I was thinking about building a twin shock XR500 to race VMX and found a pic of someone's build with a very cool swing arm. After doing some research, I found out it was from a 79 KLX250. What the heck is a KLX. I never heard of a KLX back in the day, (I raced RM's) so I started to Google KLX and found this forum and thread. This was over two months ago. Now, thanks to you all, I have the disease!
I found a running 79 KLX on Craigslist for $300 and bought it. Using tips from people in this forum, I have started the process of trying to make the KLX transform into a MXer. Heavy duty clutch springs, HD valve springs, Piston, Megacycle cam, Carb & Exhaust. If I can get it to run, then, I'll invest in suspension.
All your bikes just look so damn cool, I had to go for it.
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Welcome virusdog, Only when you can snatch the pebble from my hand will you become a real KLX owner. ;)
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Welcome virusdog, Only when you can snatch the pebble from my hand will you become a real KLX owner. ;)
Ha Ha
He will need to move quicker than a KLX then :D ;D
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im looking for stator resistances on the grey wire to earth... I have 550 ohms roughly
Bike wont rev out..
have exchanged plugs. cdi. coil.. no difference.. have followed through wiring with multimeter all ok, cleaned earths.
Its the stator or...jetting
I ahve two other stators , but get a a big fat 1 on the grey wire which im pretty sure are the ignition coils, so theyre dead
I think the pick up is ok.
Starts easy, pulls well until 3/4 throttle then stumbles..
Standard jetting, 262cc , roller head KLF, standard cam , 1 1/2" pipe, opened up muffler.
any suggestions? thks
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Standard jetting, try a couple of main jet sizes up, with open flow exhaust and bigger bore your're still delivering the same fuel/air as for a restricted exhaust smaller cylinder diameter stock engine.
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its not running lean. pulling the choke on whilst riding is making it richer down low but not affecting up top. its stumbling/breaking down at the top.
If its not the stator im wondering if its too rich because its sucking harder. plug is on the dark side but not terrible.
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I have the Kawasaki big bore exhaust on my KLX. I had to go down two sizes on the needle jet and down to a 350 main. Now these oval bore mikunis are pretty similar to the SP370 carb. Generically they are the same family. On my Suzukis I've had to jet down not up when derestricting the inlet and exhaust. Other's tried this [I think old fart] and got the same results. I'd say you're running way rich. Theory is that as the carb flows more air the suction effect on the main jet is so much greater that you have to jet down. It's counter intuitive but it works on these carbs. Generally I'd drop the needle too. A lot of the old articles say these carbs are rubbish, but I've found them to run really clean. I think a lot of the tuned back in the days stuff was blubbering due to running rich.
The SP370 and KLX use the same size, 32mm. The SP was known to have a very restrictive airbox and 32 is a big carb for a tiny valved 250, big for any 250 of that period, even the DR400 only went to 33, so I doubt the original flow was optimal. I've no idea why they used oval bores, I'd love someone to explain.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKZQkf56MPE&feature=share
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Are the main jets the same as used in normal VM Mikuni carbs ?
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Yes, screw type. Kawasaki quoted anything from 132.5 through to 142.5. The engine appears remarkably insensitive to main jet. Variations that would have a DR400 or an XT500 stumbling /sputtering just elicit a different colour plug and not quite optimal running. I went straight from 140 to a 135 as it was the only jet I could get that day. Turned out to be the correct one; but I would have guessed the jetting was closer than that, the way it was running. It was the same with the needle jet. I had to go down two sizes as the variations are so minute that Allens can't do single sizes, think it was a P.0. So I started off with two sizes smaller and the needle on full rich. It transpired that it was correct on the leanest setting, which took an afternoon, as these carbs are fiddly. Sorry for the confusion above it was a 135 rather than a 350. Further to this an SP370 with the same carb type and 32mm choke size runs a 125 main jet, yet it has to be pumping more air.
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ok thanks Ill jet it down. that screen/ airfilter combo seems pretty restrictive too...
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I thought many years ago about removing the backfire screen. restrictive it may be, but I felt that it offered a small amount of protection if the thing farted into the airbox. The replacement foam filters do seem better than the o.e. ones.
As I found out, there are two different filters. Both look the same but are very slightly different sizes. Unifilter in Oz has the specs for both.
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Sa63 ..... pm sent.
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Electric start KLX anyone, seems it’s too powerful for its owner so it must be pretty good.
Would this be a KZ motor or what??
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kawasaki-klx250b-trail-bike-off-road-motorcross-nt-yamaha-honda-suzuki-RARE-BIKE-/111049894150?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item19db16e906
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Elactric start WTF :o
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Oh today's pampered youth!
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I am fairly sure that KLX has been "sold" on eBay about 3 times now.... ::)
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Funny how this listing "ended" 2 days after the previous one....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111054021799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111054021799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
::) ::)
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I am fairly sure that KLX has been "sold" on eBay about 3 times now
I thought it was familiar....I read that it had electric start and recall thinking WTF ???. Would it be some sort of grey Jap import with electric start? That's the first time I've heard of a KLX described as being too powerful :).
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Kawasaki made a 250 trike,I think from memory KLT was the model,they had button start,very similar engine to the KLX,
Perhaps it has the KLT motor or the original has been fitted with the electric start parts ;)
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Looks like a KZ250 road bike engine. I've got one lurking in the shed somewhere. I would have put it in but I refuse to butcher the front of the frame to clear the electric boot.
While I can still kick stuff I have no yearning for a modern disease :D Look what it's done to modern bikes !
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Where would you put a battery, big enough for electric start, on a KLX ?
Would it be 12v or 6v ?
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Yeah Grouty I forgot there was also the roady version too :),Stroker if you look in the Ebay listing you will see where he keeps the battery,In a car :D,it would be 12v ;)
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Ok .... today's piece of (probably) useless information.
I have had endless trouble with kickstarts on the KLX since rebuilding the motor. Even with new knuckles (old lever) they destroy themselves fairly quickly.
I have just fitted a nos genuine Suzuki TS185 lever complete. Part # 26300-29302. Perfect fit on the splines, and a better shape both in fit and use.
Hopefully I will be back sometime soon to tell you it has not bent, and has not destroyed itself.
Next time I rebuild a motor, I will leave the compression as it was meant to be !
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So what has everyone done about their stock blown klx shocks? I want to rebuild mine and put a schrader valve in it? anyone else done this?
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Barbera even told me which oil to use. If I wasn't so old, senile and forgetful I would be able to remember which one it was. I have a sneaky feeling we cannot get it in the UK. So maybe that's why it didn't register. I do remember it was a diesel oil though. Helpful eh !
Since I've got a few cans on hand it was probably Kendall GT-1:
http://lubeoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Kendall-GT-1-Diesel-ti-15-40-CJ-4.pdf
cheers,
Michael
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No Michael, it wasn't that one. I think it was Shell Rotella. Not available in the UK :(
As an update to the kickstart issue ..... the Suzuki one is perfect. Holding up well after several good outings. I have even bought two more as spare ..... just in case. I know they will eventually wear on the knuckle joint due to the compression !
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I guess their recommendation changed from the early 1980s when it was the Kendall. That was why I had the GT-1 on hand.
cheers,
Michael
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buttons on bikes (especially two strokes) are the best invention since beer!
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YES! Omg this bike is so bad for bending kickstarters. I'm on my third... I will try this thanks!
Ok .... today's piece of (probably) useless information.
I have had endless trouble with kickstarts on the KLX since rebuilding the motor. Even with new knuckles (old lever) they destroy themselves fairly quickly.
I have just fitted a nos genuine Suzuki TS185 lever complete. Part # 26300-29302. Perfect fit on the splines, and a better shape both in fit and use.
Hopefully I will be back sometime soon to tell you it has not bent, and has not destroyed itself.
Next time I rebuild a motor, I will leave the compression as it was meant to be !
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Hey guys figured I'd share my klx and get some insight. I upgraded to a vm34 and the change is amazing. Pulls wheelies easily. the throttle response and acceleration is awesome. My problem is cold starts. It takes forever to start it cold. It floods with choke EVERYTIME then I have to let it sit and start it with the throttle cracked. Main jet is 230 pilot 25 needle is at the leanest point.(https://s12.postimg.org/nyhjg6tq5/image.jpg)
(https://s12.postimg.org/k3e5dmakd/image.jpg)
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float too high??
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Sorry to jump on this post but would anyone know what gear levers fit the KLX 250. It's really hard to find a genuine lever
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KLX GUYS,
Have an option to buy a tidy running very standard KLX 250 about 1981. What should be done to a bike like this to keep it reliable for vintage trail/vinduro work?
I had one in the day and it seized the cam for some reason. Is this still likely to happen? Or is there a good fix
Thanks
Pete
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read all of the 18 pages of this thread and you should find everything you need to know on klx's even the mod on the plug/gap spacer you make for the tacho drive to stop the wear on the cam journals in the head as kl's shared the same head as the klx
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Thanks Matt.
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Derek
What length shocks do you have on your bike??
Regards
David
Hey guys figured I'd share my klx and get some insight. I upgraded to a vm34 and the change is amazing. Pulls wheelies easily. the throttle response and acceleration is awesome. My problem is cold starts. It takes forever to start it cold. It floods with choke EVERYTIME then I have to let it sit and start it with the throttle cracked. Main jet is 230 pilot 25 needle is at the leanest point.(https://s12.postimg.org/nyhjg6tq5/image.jpg)
(https://s12.postimg.org/k3e5dmakd/image.jpg)
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Hoping someone can point me towards a solution to my cold starting problem with my KLX 250.
The bike is completely standard.
I have to kick it for 10 minutes to gradually get it to fire and run, progressively more and longer till it runs and idles.
I found some Start Ya Bastard down the plug hole helps but it is still a bastard.
Once its warm/hot, it starts virtually first time every time.
Thanks
Pete
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Id go carb problem. does your choke operate? pilot jet clear? richer pilot? try another carb? get your carb dipped in caustic cleaner?
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sounds like it is very lean on the starting circuit. as above big clean out, blow all the circuits out with comp air, check the jets arnt cemented up with crud, especially the pilot jet. should sort things out. check air filter is clean, good knick and well oiled. spark plug newish?? spark plug cap ok? muffler not blocked by wasps?? float level right? fuel flowing down you fuel line ok? tank breather not blocked??
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How old is the fuel?how long has the fuel in the bowl been there?today's petrol goes stale fast in the tank and off in the bowl of your carb,I always turn the fuel tap off and run the bike out off fuel then no cleaning the carb 3 months latter when its blocked all the jets up with shite
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Guys thanks very much for the info. I was worried it might be something worse.
For future reference for someone having a similar problem .I bought it off a neighbour who rebuilt the top end about 18mths ago and hasn't started it much since.
Got new rings, valves etc to spec. by him.
I put new plug, cleaned and re oiled the new filter, put new oil and filter in, new 98 fuel and Pea Beau-ed the wasps before I kicked the crap out of it ;D and used half a can of startyabastard.
Keen to check the stuff you suggested and sort it. Thanks again.
Pete
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Klx's start much much easier if you follow the standard big single drill, just ease the piston just past TDC let the kicker swing back up and then kick. Because that's rarely needed when hot it's not obvious that that is what's needed cold. Would be easier with a compression release lever but.. Mines a pig from cold if I don't do that.
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old ign's are also an issue, maybe try a different box top coil etc. see if that helps. get a multi onto the main coils and see if they are in spec. just cos there is a spark doesn't mean there is one in the hole
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KLX guru's,
I have invested in a low hours KLX that has been used on the road only.
I'd like to make the modification to the Tacho Drive by adding the pin, sorry for my lack of knowledge but do I need to remove the head etc to add the pin or can it be done via the plug screw/bolt on the top of the head.
Kind regards
Pete
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read all of the 18 pages of this thread and you should find everything you need to know on klx's even the mod on the plug/gap spacer you make for the tacho drive to stop the wear on the cam journals in the head as kl's shared the same head as the klx
its in here somewhere... :D
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Thanks 80-85,
I have most of this printed out from before. It mentions cutting down the spiral gear on the end of the standard KLX cam that drove the tacho so I expect that has to be done with the head off.
As for the staring issues previous - had the carb ultrasonically cleaned, now starts 1st or 2nd kick cold and hot. Also put a new inlet manifold on as the original was starting the crack.
Thanks for the help.
Pete
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I'm posting this for the previous due to the messaging service not obviously working....
As far as I remember one has to cut the tacho drive threads off the cam. Next insert a spacer so the oil doesn't pool in the open space
However this only works and is needed if your bike is one of those sent out by Kawasaki with an end cap instead of a tacho drive unit running a tacho cable. If your bike has one of those then the gap is already filled in, at least that's what I think, so there's no advantage. I have two bikes. One engine has an aftermarket phospor bronze insert In the head in place of aluminium . The other one has a roller bearing head which came very late , possibly only in the KLs. The cam is a single bolt fitting to the sprocket but appears to be the same profile. I had an aftermarket cam which I destroyed running low on oil but I haven't had it fixed as it made an already peaky engine even more so.
As far as I recall one takes off the cam sprocket and the cam comes out., so one can do all the work without removing the head. [ If you don't have a tacho drive]
I just bought a parts book and manual off ebay. Use a top quality motorcycle oil and let the engine tick over for a while after starting to oil the head. These engines are over carbed and the pipe [according to a mate who tunes for a living] is too big a diameter, all of which make the carb very sensitive to changes in intake air and exhaust. I changed to needle jet P-0 on a standard engine.
As an aside megacycle do an end cap bearing conversion which Grouty has got, he may have had a few made up to sell. You should contact him as he's the guru not me.. and buy a bloody manual you cheapskate!
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Hi guys
Heard somwhere a ts 185 kick starter will fit a klx. Can anybody verify thi sc please.
Cheers Brett
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Yep, absolutely perfect fit and I was lucky enough to find a genuine new one at an Australian Suzuki dealer.