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Kawasaki / Re: KLX's - a shared disease
« on: March 04, 2018, 04:11:23 AM »
I'm posting this for the previous due to the messaging service not obviously working....
As far as I remember one has to cut the tacho drive threads off the cam. Next insert a spacer so the oil doesn't pool in the open space
However this only works and is needed if your bike is one of those sent out by Kawasaki with an end cap instead of a tacho drive unit running a tacho cable. If your bike has one of those then the gap is already filled in, at least that's what I think, so there's no advantage. I have two bikes. One engine has an aftermarket phospor bronze insert In the head in place of aluminium . The other one has a roller bearing head which came very late , possibly only in the KLs. The cam is a single bolt fitting to the sprocket but appears to be the same profile. I had an aftermarket cam which I destroyed running low on oil but I haven't had it fixed as it made an already peaky engine even more so.
As far as I recall one takes off the cam sprocket and the cam comes out., so one can do all the work without removing the head. [ If you don't have a tacho drive]
I just bought a parts book and manual off ebay. Use a top quality motorcycle oil and let the engine tick over for a while after starting to oil the head. These engines are over carbed and the pipe [according to a mate who tunes for a living] is too big a diameter, all of which make the carb very sensitive to changes in intake air and exhaust. I changed to needle jet P-0 on a standard engine.
As an aside megacycle do an end cap bearing conversion which Grouty has got, he may have had a few made up to sell. You should contact him as he's the guru not me.. and buy a bloody manual you cheapskate!
As far as I remember one has to cut the tacho drive threads off the cam. Next insert a spacer so the oil doesn't pool in the open space
However this only works and is needed if your bike is one of those sent out by Kawasaki with an end cap instead of a tacho drive unit running a tacho cable. If your bike has one of those then the gap is already filled in, at least that's what I think, so there's no advantage. I have two bikes. One engine has an aftermarket phospor bronze insert In the head in place of aluminium . The other one has a roller bearing head which came very late , possibly only in the KLs. The cam is a single bolt fitting to the sprocket but appears to be the same profile. I had an aftermarket cam which I destroyed running low on oil but I haven't had it fixed as it made an already peaky engine even more so.
As far as I recall one takes off the cam sprocket and the cam comes out., so one can do all the work without removing the head. [ If you don't have a tacho drive]
I just bought a parts book and manual off ebay. Use a top quality motorcycle oil and let the engine tick over for a while after starting to oil the head. These engines are over carbed and the pipe [according to a mate who tunes for a living] is too big a diameter, all of which make the carb very sensitive to changes in intake air and exhaust. I changed to needle jet P-0 on a standard engine.
As an aside megacycle do an end cap bearing conversion which Grouty has got, he may have had a few made up to sell. You should contact him as he's the guru not me.. and buy a bloody manual you cheapskate!