How To Strip A Fork

[HL400]

Yep thats what he said, are yours the same ?  HL

[Ji Gantor]

Hi HL400,
No.
My 1973 forks only have two different diameters.

Ji

[HL400]

I think CZ used what ever parts that where left over form the Russian space race.
mine is a 1973 984-1   so they should be the same  HL

[Ji Gantor]

Hi HL,
Really, Wow. yours looked nothing like mine.
Okay, cough, cough.
Arrrrr  right.
How much air.
I wounder if your forks are from a later model, do you know how much travel yours have or what diameter they are.
Can you post an image of the parts that you have now?

I will look at all the manuals I have to see if I can track down what year your forks are.

I don't think that any 1973 CZ forks could handle any compressed air internally, may be the schrader valve (if there is one) was so you could easily remove built up air.

Ji

[HL400]

I will have a bash over the weekend with the photo and see how I go.
as far as I no the bike is totaly stock and is still on the standard rings.
I will mesure the travel when I put the fork tubes in.


HL

[Bamford#69]

Hi
CZ fork tubes are 35 mm from top to bottom if they are original or new , when you are having them re chromed remember that they have a taper at the top, where they tighten into the top clamp,
when re assembling slip an 8mm spring washer into the lower fork slider ,where the damper rod goes ,this make it easier to undo the damper rod  bolt when you disassemble next time,if you are replacing the circlips that hold the oil seals in make sure the ends dont scrape your new tubes , two 35 47 10, or three 35 47 7 seals, try NAK seals,you can get them from that little bearing shop next to the Kawasaki shop in Albion,
cheers

[Ji Gantor]

Hi Jikov,
The hard chrome fork tube for CZ 1968 to 1974 are all the same as per my two workshop and parts manuals. The fork tubes on my 73 are 34.97mm diameter from the bottom to just above the lower triple clamp where it necks down slightly. Mark at Rad today told me that that was typical for CZ fork tubes. I am not trying to start an argument I only ask so I can learn. Do you have some information that states that the fork tubes should be one diameter from top to bottom? If so I will instruct Rad to make mine one diameter right through.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

I have just got off the phone from Jikov and the fork tubes are only one diameter from top to bottom. My manual shows a step at the top but this must have been an alteration to stock. There is the taper at the top so the fork wedges into the triple clamp and this is the only change in line.

I have phoned Mark at Rad and asked him to chrome mine one diameter all the way through. Mark told me again that the step was very common for CZs but it is easier for him to make them one diameter rather than work on two.

Thanks Jikov your many years of working on CZs is much appreciated.
Ji

[Ji Gantor]

With a little more time spent the harder of the two lower legs is polished.
All done by hand, no machines.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The next step is to go over the tube with a wax remover and solvent. I use gloves when doing this so I don't put oily finger prints on the surfaces. Then 2 acrylic clear coats are applied to seal the surface from moisture and filth.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

This took a while to do Photo Shop wise.

This image should give the best contrast of all.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The other tube is now starting to reflect some light.
Almost there.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Here is the contrast shot or the before and after image.

Ji

[GMC]

Handy tip # 371
If you have trouble finding the right tool for the bottom bolt in your forks then simply weld a socket onto it.
This will save precious time when you next rebuild your forks as all you need to look for is the ratchet handle

[vmx42]

Yeah, but the ratchet handle is probably welded to the tractor…
Or is the tractor welded to the ratchel handle?

Hmmmmmmmm?
VMX42