Author Topic: Bearing grades  (Read 2622 times)

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Offline sleepy

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Re: Bearing grades
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2020, 07:20:47 PM »
Does the tin wear go around the outside of the crank wheels like the 2 stroke versions?

Perhaps you could post a photo.

Offline Momus

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Re: Bearing grades
« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2020, 07:46:53 AM »


The plate presses tin lid style into the crank counterbore. Oil enters the crank nose and exits the drilling just outboard of the pin's end, spins, and re-enters through the hole, thence to the bearing. XR100.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 07:51:46 AM by Momus »
If you love it, lube it.

Offline OverTheHill

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Re: Bearing grades
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2020, 08:34:07 PM »
My understanding is the extra clearance is in the bearing race not the fit on the shaft or in the case. So on one of my old [yamy] 360's on the mag side because the bearing is super tight on the shaft & equally tight in the case it's being externally squashed & internally expanded, so i use a C4 [or should be--been a while], but on the primary side only the outer is very tight & crank is a zero clearance sliding fit so i'd use a C3.

Talking Tin plates on Honda cranks i made a heavy band to clamp around so i could beat it a [little bit] but spread the load so as not to dent it--[was the plan anyway lol] so as to align the crank after replacing the rod assembly. Honda RS125 that was, about "92 by memory.

Back to bearings--on my bucket i used fiber caged high speed bearings on my TF100--well it made me feel i was going fast if nothing else. Had no problems with them ever.