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Messages - sleepy

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 34
1
General Discussion / Re: sand / soda blaster
« on: December 13, 2017, 05:27:56 PM »
Go for it you will save money but it's a very dirty job. The big rigs come with pressurized helmets so your not breathing in the dust and you need to completely cover the body as even the sand bouncing of the job hurts let alone a direct hit which removes flesh.

2
General Discussion / Re: sand / soda blaster
« on: December 13, 2017, 12:58:43 PM »
sort of, there is a 100 litre one i saw on ebay for 299 or 399 which would be much better in terms of bigger jobs

The bigger version would be good for doing what you want if you can supply enough air. I'd think you would be getting into the diesel powered compressor at that size. You would go through a lot of sand as well, years ago I found a place that would sell it in bulk and I turned up with a 200 litre drum with the top cut out and bought some.

3
General Discussion / Re: sand / soda blaster
« on: December 13, 2017, 12:43:12 PM »
Does anyone hire them, it might be more cost effective to hire.  Also how long does a bag of blast sand last?

There are people who do on site water blasting. Makes a big mesh on the ground but no dust.

4
General Discussion / Re: sand / soda blaster
« on: December 13, 2017, 10:47:46 AM »
Haven't used that type but biggest thing with any sandblasting is the type of sand used, most use garnet for good result also the blaster is only as good as the compressor used. The supplier will let you know how many CFM is required.
Are you looking at something like this?

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S334

5
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 12, 2017, 06:03:29 PM »
Since we are talking about DT Yamaha's thought I should put a couple of photos of the DT/RT clutch worms as I still have a few from the last batch I made. Cost $50 plus post. Simple to fit and gets the clutch actuator back to good health. Made from bronze and with a bit of grease every now and then will last well and give a more positive clutch action than the original.




PM me if anyone wants one.

6
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 08, 2017, 06:28:07 PM »
my guess is just an ordinary DT2 cylinder as 'i think' only the head on the 250 is recessed for the pipe. Dt2MX has equal fins all around plus the pipe is sunk into the fins at the port. Found a pic on the net below if it works. I've been wrong before--just can't remember when lol. Always wife chimes in!!. ps forgot how to load pics now fotobuckets fkd. Found a link that works, man they're a nice looking bike & had one out of the crate new.

https://motocrossactionmag.com/classic-motocross-iron-1972-yamaha-dt2mx-250/

You could be correct the barrel with the fins cut off are the DT1 GYT that is sitting here. Still something doesn't look quite right with it for a stock DT2/3 barrel and the YC isn't on my DT2 barrel.

7
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 08, 2017, 10:30:46 AM »
My guess would be DT2MX as there are no fins cut away for the side pipe.
Looks like a lot of work on the bike to bring it back to original.

8
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 08, 2017, 12:43:25 AM »
Found this on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Yamaha-Headlight-Bulb-CT1-CT2-CT3-DT1-DT2-DT3-RT1-RT2-RT3-175-250-360-400-DT-/281985258943
It is a sealed beam probably like the one you have but there is a list of other Yamaha's that share the same size light.
I may even order one for my RT3 and keep it as a spare.
......
I'd guess its wrong pattern for legal use in aus.

That could be a problem but the Ebay site gave a long list other Yamaha's that share the same lens which could help in finding something.
One would have to be pretty brave to ride at night with those 6 volt light these days.

9
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 07, 2017, 05:20:22 PM »
Oh hell that's suddenly opened a different can of worms. reed i "72 on so you've either bought a DT2 or DT3 cylinder if it looks the same in the way it fits on, base gasket, head gasket etc. Or it's a DT2MX cylinder which looks a bit squarer in the fining, head fins are taller too if you have the matching head. Need pics please if pos. Only problem will be--if you 'do' have a "71 piston port DT1 7 go to fit a reed cylinder then there's a conrod length difference of about 5 or 6mm. Same problem doesn't happen with a 360 going from piston port to reed. Confusing myself now so i'll leave it at that.

5mm longer conrod for the DT1 with a 5mm lower piston from the pin which puts the top in the same place.

10
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 07, 2017, 12:43:07 PM »
Found this on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Yamaha-Headlight-Bulb-CT1-CT2-CT3-DT1-DT2-DT3-RT1-RT2-RT3-175-250-360-400-DT-/281985258943
It is a sealed beam probably like the one you have but there is a list of other Yamaha's that share the same size light.
I may even order one for my RT3 and keep it as a spare.

Thought I'd put up a photo of the RT3. It's had a front wheel rebuild with a new trials tyre and a new repo seat cover since the photo.


11
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 07, 2017, 10:44:38 AM »
thanks for the information guys
the cylinder i have is boreable with reed intake
on internet i cant find anything of a cylinder that starts with YC

cheers

kenny

Reed intake will make it a DT2/3 or possibly a DT2MX, I had a look on a DT2 barrel and can't see YC anywhere only 246cc. Can you post a picture or a link to a picture?
A lot of people have been conned into buying bikes that are listed as DT1's only to find they are DT2/3's as they all start with DT1 engine and frame number. What type of cylinder is on the bike reed or piston port?

12
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 06, 2017, 11:36:21 AM »
DT1MX had a boreable cast liner cylinder [i have one] but DT1GYT kit cylinder was chrome [i recently sold one]. Assembled them new where i worked plus fixed them when they broke which was often lol. The DT1MX cylinders wore out pretty bad but the Chrome GYT Kit cylinder lasted well. I did end up with someones stuffed chrome bore that had an LA Sleeve fitted that was made out of real good stuff & lasted for ever & only recently sold that on a motor. I'll fight my way the crap & have a look at what's stamped on the side of the cylinder [DT1MX cylinder]. I'll find a pic so you can have a laugh at what it's on & not been run for years but does go & actualy fair goes like hell/ Just remembered i have a 360 crank in that one so 70x70mm whatever that works out too.

All the ones I've seen must be the GYT kit. All the one's I've seen in the last 20 years has had the chrome bore and all are stuffed. I thought the DT1MX's were just a Dt1 with a factory fitted GYT kit but obviously not.

Yep still plenty of oversize single ring DT1MX kits on ebay. Be lucky to find a genuine kit for a chrome bore as had a ring with parallel faces as opposed to keystone tapper top face that i 'think' the DT1MX had but might be wrong on that, different thickness anyway. Chrome cylinder ring was of a different material & F$%n Dopey Me finished off a pretty worn but usable cylinder that i had for 30/40 years & thought--give it another run & had a genuine piston but no ring, so shuffled through a box of old rings & thought 'that one' do as fitted ring groove & the bore. Took about 1 minute to absolutely bugger it beyond use & pissed myself RIGHT OFF. Mate did that in the mid "60's on a square barrel villiers starmaker motor, think he got a special cylinder for it & did the same thing without realising. I thought--i'll never make that mistake lol. DT1 GYT Kit we got in late "68 for the new square S/arm DT1. Complete top end plus carb & chamber plus a "21 front wheel. DT1MX by memory would've arrived in 1970 with the round tube S/arm & ready to race out of the box--well till the gearbox gave up the next week!!. Boss got an RT1MX--same bike bigger motor. I pinched that motor for my "68 DT1 for a meeting while he was off overseas. Was a bit of fun for sure. Anyway--forgotten the question.

DT1 talk certainly brings back memories for me having bought a round swingarm one S/H when I was 14. It came from a guy that worked at a Yamaha shop. Had all the lights on it but they soon came off and it also came with a GYT kit which went on. Certainly went better with the kit fitted but noisy as hell with that open chamber. My plan was to start racing it with a lowered frame after reading a magazine article on converting it into a MXer. I was talked out of it by my local MX expert and shop owner and bought a 73 TM125 instead. I kept the GYT stuff and sold the bike on but after looking at the barrel some 15 years ago found the chrome coming off with corrosion under it. Have made a sleeved and fitted it and just recently sold it for use on a VMX bike.
Not much to do with his original question but you get that.

13
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 05, 2017, 08:17:51 PM »
DT1MX had a boreable cast liner cylinder [i have one] but DT1GYT kit cylinder was chrome [i recently sold one]. Assembled them new where i worked plus fixed them when they broke which was often lol. The DT1MX cylinders wore out pretty bad but the Chrome GYT Kit cylinder lasted well. I did end up with someones stuffed chrome bore that had an LA Sleeve fitted that was made out of real good stuff & lasted for ever & only recently sold that on a motor. I'll fight my way the crap & have a look at what's stamped on the side of the cylinder [DT1MX cylinder]. I'll find a pic so you can have a laugh at what it's on & not been run for years but does go & actualy fair goes like hell/ Just remembered i have a 360 crank in that one so 70x70mm whatever that works out too.

All the ones I've seen must be the GYT kit. All the one's I've seen in the last 20 years has had the chrome bore and all are stuffed. I thought the DT1MX's were just a Dt1 with a factory fitted GYT kit but obviously not.

14
Yamaha / Re: dt1 question
« on: December 04, 2017, 09:50:22 AM »
The original headlight wasn't a sealed beam, they had a removable bulb. The light was the same pretty much on all the DT/RT series. They used a 6 volt 35 watt dual filament bulb.

If the barrel is an MX it will be chrome plated inside. I have had a look at one I have here and it only has the 246 marking on it with nothing else.
Of course it has to be piston port to be a DT1. The first of the DT2's came out in 71 with the reed intake but all the engine numbers started with DT1 up until the 74 DT250.

15
Honda / Re: Cheap XR200 carbs
« on: December 02, 2017, 12:32:58 PM »
You could try one of these. Listed for Honda TRX250 and others. Tried carbs from here for other stuff and they were ok.
https://www.banggood.com/Carburetor-Carb-For-Honda-Recon-TRX250-1997-2001-ESTETHRS-250-p-981030.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
For $38 delivered what could go wrong?

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