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Topics - James P

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1
Wanted / RM125, 250 or 400 fork yoke set...
« on: November 28, 2017, 03:45:25 PM »
Thanks to info from Leith C, I have discovered what I really want - a set of fork yokes as originally fitted to these RM models:

1978 RM125C
1978 and-a-half RM250C2
1978 RM400C

I could probably get away with just the top yoke, including the handlebar clamps and rubber mounting assemblies. However, I'm willing to also take the bottom yoke and steering column. All the original fasteners would be of advantage, but not necessarily essential. I'd prefer complete in good usable condition, but beggars can't be choosers, so let me know what you've got :) !

I did find a couple of reasonably-priced sets on Ebay in the USA, but the postage costs more than the parts (thanks no doubt to Ebay's "postage partner" Pitney Bowes - easy for the seller, costly for the buyer), so I'd prefer to treat those as a last resort.
I'm in Sydney, so could collect if close by. Otherwise, I'll pay whatever the postage costs.

Thanks & regards,
James

2
Yamaha / Dimensions of yokes for Yamahas with 36mm forks...?
« on: November 27, 2017, 07:29:54 PM »
I am looking for some dimensions of fork yokes from any Yamahas originally equipped with 36mm forks. My basic requirement is that the fork legs should be able to pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar. Possible candidates so far include:

IT (all models except 125) - 1977 to 1980
YZ125 - 1977 to 1980

As far as I am aware, the above IT and YZ models all use practically identical yokes (after 1977, I believe the bottom yoke and steering column was supplied as one piece), but there are other Yamahas originally equipped with 36mm forks for which it may be handy to know details, particularly late 70s and early 80s TT and XT models.

For any set of 36mm yokes, I am looking for the following info:

1. Will the fork leg(s) pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar?
2. If so, what is the distance between fork leg centres?
3. What is the offset (i.e. the perpendicular distance between the centre of the steering column and a straight line drawn through the fork leg centres)?
4. What is the inside diameter of the hole in the top yoke for the steering column?

I may have to modify positions of steering stops and make other minor adjustments to suit my application, but any basic info is welcome. If you are able to provide any details, please let me know the model and year of manufacture (if you know it) of the yokes you have measured, just in case there are any differences between models.

Mark Boddy has helpfully supplied dimensions for the 1977-1980 IT model yokes, but I'd be glad to know whether any of the TT or XT models have yokes which may be more suitable. If anyone can suggest any additional models from which suitable yokes may be sourced, please let me know!

Thanks in advance & regards,
James


3
Suzuki / PE175/250/400, DR500, SP500 fork yoke dimensions...?
« on: November 27, 2017, 07:12:07 PM »
I am looking for some dimensions of fork yokes for the following models:

PE175/250/400 T and X models
DR500 X, Z and D models
SP500 X, Z and D models

The bikes listed above should all have 36mm forks. There are doubtless some differences in the yokes between these models, but I believe that they are all of similar configuration.

I am looking for a set of yokes (from any bike) to fit 36mm forks, which will allow the fork legs to pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar. The yokes from the bikes above may allow this, but I haven't so far been able to get hold of any to check. Thus, I'd be glad of any assistance forum members can offer in this regard.

I am looking for the following info:

1. Will the fork leg(s) pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar?
2. If so, what is the distance between fork leg centres?
3. What is the offset (i.e. the perpendicular distance between the centre of the steering column and a straight line drawn through the fork leg centres)?
4. What is the inside diameter of the hole in the top yoke for the steering column?

I may have to modify positions of steering stops and make other minor adjustments to suit my application, but any basic info is welcome. If you are able to provide any details, please let me know the model and year of manufacture (if you know it) of the yokes you have measured, just in case there are any differences between models.

If anyone can suggest any additional models from which suitable yokes may be sourced, please let me know!

Thanks in advance & regards,
James


4
Kawasaki / KLX250 fork yoke dimensions...?
« on: November 27, 2017, 06:59:57 PM »
Can anyone help with dimensions for KLX250 fork yokes? I understand that all models have 36mm forks, but am unsure whether the yokes are the same for all models.

I am looking for a set of yokes (from any bike) to fit 36mm forks, which will allow the fork legs to pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar. I've seen pictures of KLX250 yokes which look suitable, but I can't be sure without checking and measuring...or asking someone who knows.

I am looking for the following info:

1. Will the fork leg(s) pass up through the top yoke without hitting the handlebar?
2. If so, what is the distance between fork leg centres?
3. What is the offset (i.e. the perpendicular distance between the centre of the steering column and a straight line drawn through the fork leg centres)?
4. What is the inside diameter of the hole in the top yoke for the steering column?

I may have to modify positions of steering stops and make other minor adjustments to suit my application, but any basic info is welcome. If you are able to provide any details, please let me know the year of manufacture (if you know it) of the yokes you have measured, just in case there are any differences between models.

Thanks in advance & regards,
James


5
Suzuki / Suzuki PE250B
« on: November 26, 2017, 10:45:06 PM »
Hello all. I have just joined the forum and intend to ask for assistance with parts interchangeability for some slight modifications to my PE250B. In the meantime, here is a photo of the bike (which you probably can't see unless you have downloaded the necessary program to circumvent the latest nonsense by Photobucket >:( ):



If you can't see the photo, try this link: http://photobucket.com/gallery/http://s1277.photobucket.com/user/JamesP001/media/DSC06963_zpskbwmnsig.jpg.html

I bought it about 10 years ago with the intention of converting it into a road bike (which I have done). However, I originally had the intention of making it into some sort of "classic super motard" with a disc brake front end and other modern parts, but soon decided to keep it as original as reasonably possible.
The previous owner had been using the bike for classic enduro events. All the road gear had been removed, but luckily the front light and speedometer were included (no rear light though). There were a few minor bodges around the place (not sure whether the previous owner was responsible), but luckily nothing that couldn't be fixed.
As the bike was running when I got it, I was tempted to leave the engine alone. However, I decided to strip it for inspection anyway - lucky I did, as the primary drive nut was about to come off the end of the crankshaft!
Unfortunately, the plastic handlebar switches were beyond repair. I added an ignition switch from a Lambretta, which incorporates switching functions for the lights. I also added an electric horn from a Lambretta (I don't think the B model came with a horn originally). I had the stator lighting coils converted to 12V and the whole lighting system is now regulated 12V AC. The ignition equipment is all original.
I bought a job lot of original B parts from USA. Most of these were scrap, but still good for patterns. Importantly, a restorable rear light unit was included. I managed to find a box of 5 original rear light lenses at an old Suzuki dealer locally.

The carb which came fitted to the bike was a Mikuni VM34 from a Yamaha TZ750! I replaced it with a TM32 flat-slide carb (from an early TS250X I think) which I had previously used on another project bike. I had my machinist make a special flange-to-spigot adaptor for this carb, which is attached using a rubber sleeve for a Mk2 Amal carb. The original air box had a couple of large cracks, so I used a large K&N pod filter on a custom-made adaptor which rests on the frame cross-rail to give some support to the carb.

The original exhaust which came with the bike was in reasonable condition, but had a "crease" in the header pipe. The original silencer was missing and the previous owner had stuck an early RM/YZ short silencer on the end. I decided to keep the original pipe for fixing later and bought a Circle-F system from USA.

Luckily the bike's original wheels were in good condition. The previous owner told me they had been rebuilt recently and they certainly looked OK, so I left them alone. The rear shock absorbers are Hagon brand and looked new, so I left them alone too.
The forks were from a YZ125D and were a little too long. I recently replaced them with a set of PE175/250C/N forks, which are more suitable in the absence of the originals.

I'll add some more details when I have time... :)

Regards,
James

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