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Messages - Momus

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1
Suzuki / Re: 1969/70 TS250 clutch plates
« on: Yesterday at 04:18:46 AM »
Thanks Tim

Mine is nearly done a year after what was going to be a tidy on a going bike.

I can get the original 'cork' plates through the local dealer but I'm trying to find some laminated jobs with an aluminium center.

Any ideas?

2
The countershaft should be harder than the sprocket and probably is OE but who knows aftermarket. The wear is mostly caused by grit IMHO.

Shafts can be repaired fairly easily by annealing, weld building, recutting and case hardening.

3
Tech Talk / Re: Metal Filler
« on: June 23, 2018, 04:26:57 PM »
Fark welding in that area, especially on a horizontally split case. 

The other way to do this without weld or epoxy is drill a true hole  through the transfer into air then into the area between the seal and bearing and tap fit a brass tube carby spigot style. ;)

You would probably get away with nothing or a small groove in the case and bearing outer beside the crank cheek.


4
Tech Talk / Re: Metal Filler
« on: June 21, 2018, 07:00:02 PM »
Bog- styrene monomer body filler  works suprisingly well at engine temps.

5
Suzuki / 1969/70 TS250 clutch plates
« on: June 19, 2018, 08:23:04 PM »
I'm screwing together a Pre70 TS250 and looking for some advice on the clutch friction plates.
 
These 69/70 use an 18 tab, all 'cork' friction plate versus the later 12 tab type that are usually metal reinforced.

Does anyone know if there is a metal reinforced 18 tab plate available- perhaps from an early TM?

6
General Discussion / Re: Facebook or Ozvmx Forum?
« on: June 19, 2018, 07:23:51 PM »
Forum is my preferred info gathering area . I too found the bitching got on my nerves a while back and dropped out for quite a time , glad it seems to have died away . I find the knowledge on here is broader with less of the "what bike have I got bro's "type of questions or how can I get my 1977 xyz to go quick what sort of power band should I get ?
Iain .

Yep. It is  an archived resource that people from all over the world access. Face book is useless for all practical purposes after a month or two, and that's on the off chance something was discussed in depth.

7
General Discussion / Re: Facebook or Ozvmx Forum?
« on: June 19, 2018, 05:15:27 PM »
The Norton forum I'm on does that as does the BSA B50 group. Premium membership or similar for $15 a year.
Both have small readership but more posts.

8
General Discussion / Re: Facebook or Ozvmx Forum?
« on: June 19, 2018, 03:49:09 PM »
I reckon the postings here would triple with easy photo uploads.

9
Tech Talk / Re: Best value twin shock?
« on: June 18, 2018, 07:21:33 PM »
Gilles Vaillancourt AMA hall of famer was the owner of Works Performance, and when his health failed and he died things went south.





10
Tech Talk / Re: Best value twin shock?
« on: June 15, 2018, 08:21:39 PM »
^This

11
British (BSA, Greeves, Triumph etc) / Re: New (old) Project
« on: June 15, 2018, 02:34:43 AM »
Well done, bet the smile was huge. Did fred make an electric box or did you use your old one?

I have used the box from the original one. It was new about a year ago, so should be good for a while.
The only other thing I "borrowed" from the other one was the kick start. The cotter pin type CCM lever is an extinct species.

But at thrice the price of anything else @ comment #54

12
Tech Talk / Re: decompression valve. where from?
« on: June 14, 2018, 09:59:20 PM »
https://secure.vulcanworks.net/store/Compression-Release-Set-14mm-Long-Reach.html

I've fitted a few and have used chainsaw units- Stihl/Husky push button type with the 10 x 1.0 thread; $150 US sounds a bit exxy. Stihl genuine are about $20 or you can get a 3 for $12 with free postage Chinese deal from Ebay.


Getting the unit is easy, the install in a water cooled bike needs a bit of thought. Most I've seen involve a welded boss that the decomp screws into. I make an adaptor using a M6 thread that requires only drilling and tapping and can go through the water jacket.

13
Tech Talk / Re: what am I doing wrong 74 kx250
« on: June 02, 2018, 05:57:28 PM »
RM370 did the crap running down low when I got it.

New genuine crank seals, checked the mating faces, replaced the center case gasket and the phillips head screws with cap screws to get decent tension- std screws were not tight  (I suspected a possible intermittent 'wet' leak from the gearbox), and it was a lot better. It wasn't until I put a new cylinder and piston on it though that it was 100%.


The original cylinder was ok- ring end gap was well within spec and skirt clearance respectable and so on. Perhaps swap top ends from your 76 to rule that out?

14
Tech Talk / Re: Fuel cap gasket.
« on: May 31, 2018, 10:02:00 AM »
My suggestion is go to a bearing supplier - CBC say- and ask for a Viton O ring or Viton sheet to make a gasket. Safe with any conceivable 'petrol'.

15
For Sale / Re: Montessa Rapita
« on: May 07, 2018, 10:07:47 PM »
Looks like Montessa's answer to the DT1.

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