OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Italian (Moto Villa, Beta, SWM etc) => Topic started by: NSR on July 21, 2014, 09:16:40 PM
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I have started the rebuild on the Kramit. Geez, this thing is built like a tank. So many nuts and bolts. But so far it has been a easy strip down I made sure I have taken a lot of photos because I'm sure I wont find a diagram of what goes where. My new bike stand is awesome, I didn't I buy one of these years ago??
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1560.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1559.jpg)
I hope this is one peace.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1393.jpg)
I guess they couldn't find a front sprocket.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1602.jpg)
Air scoops
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1583.jpg)
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With the amount of dirt in the carb intake its no wonder the motor is noisy.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1623.jpg)
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Looks like a well maintained low mileage unit Noel :)
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After it finished the Dakar!!
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Sorry mate you spelt it wrong it's CRAPIT.
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Looks like a disc valve Rotax?
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at least you can get a few bucks for that Ohlins shock ;D ;D
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I Think it's had a Dakars worth of dirt though the motor. Yeah it is a disk valve same as the SWM or Canam bottom end with a LC top end. I could sell the shock, I've got a much better one to go in 8).
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1663.jpg)
The RAVE unit Beats me how it works, I just find its cool its held together with zip ties ???.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1618.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1635.jpg)
Not what you want to see in the air boot :'(
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1666-1.jpg)
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There's a water pump installed where the oil pump is on the Can Am
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1593.jpg)
The results of the dirt.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1611.jpg)
Cool, I've got a new rod in stock. Bugger, the piston is different to the Air cooled motor.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1608.jpg)
:)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1651-1.jpg)
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Nice bike in the background ;D Noel .... hope it works out well for you, and not too many hiccups along the way.
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Is it 68x 68 bore/stroke, lots of bits are standard Rotax stuff. The water pump was used to convert air cooled Can Am bottom ends to water cooled to make the 124 and 244 kart/road race engines. The RAVE valve is standard Rotax stuff, gear box if 5 sp with be the same as any other Rotax 5sp same for the 6 sp. Drop me a PM if ever need any bits
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Thanks Lozza, I will need some parts. It is a 72x57.5 bore/stroke, 6 speed.
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Right now your thinking about selling the spare engine you have aren't you, just stare at the picture.....your eyes are getting sleepy............ ;D
(http://media.mercola.com/imageserver/public/2009/June/hypnotic.jpg)
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bastard, I just sold my .....
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Is there anything you can get to soak the nuts and bolts in to remove the rust before I send them to be plated?
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Degrease them thoroughly and put them in a bucket of Molases mixed with water at 4:1(ie 4 water -1 molases) leave the bucket outside(it smells) for a week or more.The mixture only eats rust.
Molases can be bought cheaply at your local farm produce store.
I use it to clean up all my rusty parts,works a treat.
WARNING Do not use on alloys or magnesium,it will dissolve them too.
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the platers give a supersonic clean don't they?. I would go and buy a box of 6, 8 and 10mm nylocks and just do the bolts.
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I would go and buy a box of 6, 8 and 10mm nylocks and just do the bolts.
Yeah I will be doing that. Its the bolts, clips and small parts I need the rust off.
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rust buster from bunnings :) http://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-ranex-4l-rustbuster-rust-remover_p1560871
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any acid will work to remove rust, just the strength is the issue. I use diluted hydrochloric acid. works really fast- be warned if you forget the part in the acid it may be destroyed or gone!
I give a Quick wire brush and just dip and brush until clean(couple of minutes), but the plater will also acid strip everything.
I like to acid clean before welding any old parts, getting rid of the plating stops the eye blinding flashes if tigging
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A wire wheel on your bench grinder.
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There is a product called Rost Off and Rost Off ice Wurth sell it.
Rosco Holden used a product called Protec Metal Conditioner Degreaser to clean the pipes he got from the Flood collection.
Or aluminium cleaner will also do something similar
Kevin
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Are these forks WP or Marzocchi Forks? Whatever they are has anyone got any settings (Oil weight spring Pre load etc.) for them?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1785.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1786.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1791.jpg)
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they look different to the wp on my 86 ktms,different looking caps and whatever that is over the dampening rods is not on the wp's
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Ok I have got a bit of a problem. The Motoplat flywheel needs a 28 x 1.25 internal thread. I have tried a 28 x 1 puller with no luck. They seem to be used on the later Rotax motors like ATKs.
If by chance you have one could I borrow it :P Unless someone can lend me one it looks like I will have to get one made.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_1802.jpg)
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you need a good thread man to whip one up phil whittle in Bendigo just did one for ol mates vespa, 27mm..
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Read the digital vernier properly 27.82 would be a 28 mm thread. A good engineering (machine) shop could make a puller for it. But at $100.00 plus an hour it won't be cheap.
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Noel,
Nice new project. Strange beast... never seen one of these before.
That puller is an odd size, 27mm x 1.25 is common enough however the 28mm is scarce.
I found one here: http://bit.ly/1rl38H3
(http://vinduro.com.au/images/bigchurs/motoplat_28_x_1.25_flywheel_puller.jpg)
And..... another one here:
http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=816
(http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/images/flywheel_puller_28X125.jpg)
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The UK might be your friend on this one.
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Nice bike.
Cheers
Jock
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Noel, I have a puller that should suit. PM me for details.
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i am pretty sure i have the flywheel puller and iam at nambour. give me a call on 0433407882 .cheers gregg
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Noel,
Nice new project. Strange beast... never seen one of these before.
That puller is an odd size, 27mm x 1.25 is common enough however the 28mm is scarce.
I found one here: http://bit.ly/1rl38H3
(http://vinduro.com.au/images/bigchurs/motoplat_28_x_1.25_flywheel_puller.jpg)
And..... another one here:
http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=816
(http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/images/flywheel_puller_28X125.jpg)
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The UK might be your friend on this one.
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Nice bike.
Cheers
Jock
The puller shown here has an external thread. Noel needs an internal thread. However if that is all he can get you could make a long nut to screw to the flywheel and then screw the external thread puller to it. It would work.
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Thanks for all your help. I got the right puller from Floods. Just under $100 bucks to get one part of the motor apart :o
At least I know it will last me forever ;)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_1819.jpg)
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Before I do this wrong. What is the best way to remove these fork seals?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1997.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1995.jpg)
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Before I do this wrong. What is the best way to remove these fork seals?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1997.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1995.jpg)
I'll show you on Wednesday night at Bag's place. Bring the following tools:
1) Hammer .. preferably a big one
2) Chisel .. and one of those long Stanley screwdrivers that you can hit real hard
3) 9 inch grinder with cutting blade fitted
4) Beer to show your gratitude :)
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nice ride bud, cant wait to see the end result !
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What is the best way of removing paint from magnesium? Can paint stripper be used?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1593.jpg)
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Sandblast
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Water it will eat the magnesium from the paint!
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Water it will eat the magnesium from the paint!
It sure does. Just around where the pipes it has started to corrode.
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Well it's all a bit ugly inside. It had broken two of the shifter forks. It looks like the motor has been fixed without buying one new part.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Kramit%20Resto/IMG_1826.jpg)
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Well it's all a bit ugly inside. It had broken two of the shifter forks. It looks like the motor has been fixed without buying one new part.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Kramit%20Resto/IMG_1826.jpg)
Bloody hell Noel, that's dodgy as hell :(
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And a very worn out big end Bering
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Kramit%20Resto/IMG_1831.jpg)
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If you cant find someone good local to weld up your cases let me know.
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Thanks Slakewell. But its done. The bottom end is now with my tame mechanic Peter Baguley to put together.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Kramit%20Resto/IMG_2140.jpg)
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I like the clutch actuator. It looks better than the earlier mechanism - big rollers and a longer arm.
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I wish my SWM had big balls :-[ I know you can buy the parts and do some machining to the case to make it fit
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Kramit%20Resto/IMG_2143.jpg)
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What is the real name for the rubbers that are holding the radiators on. Does anyone have a lead on where they can be bought for a reasonable price?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1566.jpg)
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erm radiator mounts :D
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUZUKI-RM-250-1983-ORIGINAL-RUBBER-RADIATOR-MOUNTS-FULL-SET-X6-IN-GOOD-CONDITION-/181601757188?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a484ee804
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Found em ::) At 1/4 of the price I first got. Thanks Lozza. But they look to wimpy, everything on this bike is industrial.
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or even nicer looking piece http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maico-KTM-Husky-Bultaco-Penton-6mm-Exhaust-Rubber-Mount-/170532223818 and you can call it whatever you want as long as it fits :)
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Check MCS online. They do a selection of mounts.
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The MCs ones do not last. believe me I tried most of them.
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Maybe try this mob , you might be able to make threaded pins for the recessed multicushion ones.
http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/products/vibration-isolators/ (http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/products/vibration-isolators/)
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KTM KLASSIKER HAVE THE RADIATOR MOUNTS
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Found em ::) At 1/4 of the price I first got. Thanks Lozza. But they look to wimpy, everything on this bike is industrial.
cut the end of a set screw cut some fuel line and add washer and nyloc ?
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These ones work fine and break before your radiator
If you can't get the correct length then buy male/female ones and screw some allthread in the female end.
You probably knew all this Noel.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5PCS-4mm-Rubber-Double-Ends-Screw-Anti-Vibration-Mount-Silentblock-/251709718892?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Industrial_Supply_MRO&hash=item3a9b11816c
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Yeah, thanks guys got hold of some like Mike put up. Even found one of the hard to get one for the SWM. My local engineering shop wanted $25 a piece for them?
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Any updates/pics?
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The frame is painted, New bushes and seals in the forks. One fork has the compression shim stack and the other has the rebound. I'm not expecting great things from the forks.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_2239.jpg)
The swing are and linkages are in.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_2244.jpg)
Shocks had a full rebuild and a spec sheet filled out. For not being opened since the late 80s the shock was in good nic. should last another 30Yrs
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1788.jpg)
There is ground in dirt in every part of this bike
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_2345.jpg)
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forks set up with rebound in one leg and comp in the other can be set up very very good nothing wrong with that set up
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forks set up with rebound in one leg and comp in the other can be set up very very good nothing wrong with that set up
Its not the set up. Just the quality concerns me.
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Add this to it ;)
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/york/accessories/lic-plate-kramit-/1073008335
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Add this to it ;)
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/york/accessories/lic-plate-kramit-/1073008335
;)
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Update: The bottom end is back together. Conrod, bearings, 3 shift forks and 2 gears later.
[imp]http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_2490.jpg[/img]
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Noel
IMG not IMP at the start of the link will make the photo appear.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_2490.jpg)
Cheers
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Thanks mate.
Here is why you take heaps of photos when pulling apart a bike. The manifold can be installed at all different angles, I now know there are numbers on the manifold to be able to set it into the right place again.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_2507.jpg)
Lucky I had this photo I was way out on how I thought it went.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_1663_1.jpg)
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Can someone tell me What brand of throttle is this?
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_2645.jpg)
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1984 Suzuki RM
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1984/RM250/RIGHT+HANDLE+SWITCH+%28MODEL+E%29/parts.html
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Well it is finished. It was all a rush at the end to have it finished by CD. How does it go? It hauls. Thanks Popeye for selling it to me. The shock needs a heaver spring, the forks are better than I thought they would be and the motor is awesome. This is how you think it looks and sounds when your riding it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-q7r2fBf4E&index=3&list=PLA3994B86D6D1FC94 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-q7r2fBf4E&index=3&list=PLA3994B86D6D1FC94)
Between the great track and this bike I rode around with a dumb grin on my face two days.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/11393025_696911890455683_6364017537606154326_n.jpg)
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Very nice , rare machine , well done . ;D
Regards ,
Steve
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Rotax power ;)
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Nice work...great looking bike
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It really hauls from the bottom end up NSR, looks fantastic on the fly as well, all in all a great score!
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Awsome Noel well done, hope was worth the effort, can't wait to see it in the flesh..
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Lozza, how should I adjust the RAVE valve? I assume the more you screw down this nut the sooner and further it will open.
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/Karmit%20Rebuild/IMG_1618.jpg)
(http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww125/NoelSR/IMG_20150519_213009_731.jpg)
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The other way around the more preload the greater gas pressure it takes to open the valve the later it opens. You will probably find the near maximum setting gives more linear power. Remember to make sure the bleed hole is clear to the exhaust duct.